John01XX

Sounds good, John. I read that review also - there may be an alternative to the bail retention system, we just have to figure it out. Now, to choose an H7... do you have a maximum price in mind? Or a minimum lumens? As bright as can be for as little cost as possible! I looks like there is enough space that the bail retention may work with a little finesse

From the reviews: I installed a set of H7 LED bulbs in my 2007 Yamaha R1 for high beams. One thing to know is that you will need to "hack" the H7 adapter to get the proper spacer so the wire retaining clip will work. No instructions make it a trial and error situation. It would have been great to know this before hand, but in a retrofit you learn as you go I guess. But after all is said and done, the LED's are amazing!!!! So much brighter than the Osram Night Breakers!!!! I want to try a High beam on the Bird to replace the current HID due to the instant on issue. Mike, if you have to buy a pair like I think I read, I am interested in slitting an H7 pair with you or anyone else.

So now the question is, which is faster on the track with you riding, the F3 or the 954?

So why have you not brought it down to RacerXX once in the last 7 years!!! :-) I am looking for a steal of a deal on a 2006 or later CBR600RR myself.

Did you say track bike?

Different spec's for different types of batteries Lithium Polymer (Lipo) I run in my RC Slash truck Lithium Iron Phosphate, I currently run in my BlackBird I use a Thunder AC6 balanced charger for my LiPo batteries I use a Optimate model TM291 for my Lithium Iron Phosphate battery My understanding is that most all of the Lithium battery variations require a balanced charging system to keep them healthy verses straight charging for lead acid batteries. My Lipo charger has an option for different Lithium types so should work on the Lithium iron as well. My RC charger cost me $65.00 and my Bird charger cost me $100.00

clean and check the main ground under the tank.

Fairing bolts http://bikebits.us/cbr1100xx-blackbird-products-c14/

Thanks Vern, I can do that! duh!! to easy! blue/white low beam blue/black high beam

the two pair of wires to power the low and high beams are color coded one pair is - green and blue w/black strip other pair is - green and blue w/white strip which blue wire feeds the high beam and which the low beam?

thanks Vern

Thanks Hank, Will go with the 55's then Was concerned about to much heat and possibly melting the housing Also the DDM. Site recommends the 6000K in the 55W and 5000K in the 35W for the brightest white light. They say the higher wattage tends to wash out the slight blue tint in the 55's to give you the brightest usable white light. The 35's give off the brightest usable white light in the 5000K. I think I will go with the 55W in the 6000K myself

Time for a new pair to replace the 10 year old set of 35W McCulloch's that have served me well. Must decide if I want the 55W verses the 35W? Any recommendations appreciated. Would love to have the higher brightness as long as it is not a problem with heat. Will be ordering the new digital slim ballast set-up from DDM What say the masses?

If any carb'd bike sits for more than a week or two without being started up, you are going to get a buildup of deposits in the jets, clogging them up. After a ride just turn the fuel off and run the engine dry of fuel then store. A carb clean generally runs $150.00 here in So Florida!

If you prefer shipping within the States I will take it.

use HDLPARTS.COM as a conparison for cost may be easier to determine correct part number

and still fast as hell on the track! and you have curves in Tennessee named after you! and still a good look'n wippersnapper!!!!

Wow Vern you are really OLD!

At the dealership I work at, replacement of the valve stem is automatic on all tire changes with mag wheels and replacement tubes and rim savers on all tire changes with spoked wheels. Rubber rots!

Hobie has one of those that is old, worn out and rode hard and put away wet!

Are the pistons actually fully depressed? I have seen tech's use an old worn out pad on top of the new inner pad and then use a large screwdriver to pry on the old pad to force the new pad further back. That way no damage to the new pad surface with pry marks. Then remove the old pad and insert the new outside pad. If that makes any sense! My guess is that the inner pad is not fully depressed.

Those of course, are a pair of rear firing mini Gatling guns mounted on both side of the taillight! Nobody likes to be tailgated while on the BlackBird!

I would suggest hooking up with "Jaws" at straightfour@aol.com for about the most knowledgeable and experienced advice available in the UK.

grounds

This is what I was trying to say as explained to me by a Yuasa battery rep. for lead acid batteries He said that when a battery is filled with acid the first time that it generates approximately a 60% charge level. If you put it on a charger it will rise up to the 100% capacity level for that particular battery. If you install said battery in the bike at the 60% charge level and put it under load, the battery then sets its 100% capacity at the 60% charge level. The battery will then always recharge only up to that 60% level for the life of the battery. The key being that what ever charge level the battery is at when it is put under load for the first time determines the charge level for the life of the battery. I do not know if this is scientific fact or just sales BS but it came from someone knowledgeable within the Battery industry.