Edward

Love the tile work, it's quite and improvement.

Mold, that stuff can get nasty and is not something I would play around with. As soon as possible I would tear out all the effected dry wall and flooring, and yes this also includes around the shower/tub. Then spray all the effected wood with either bleach or some other mold killing chemical. I would then let the effected areas dry completely before checking for rot. If all checks out, well your all set for a remodel. However if you have rot or the mold will just not go away. Your gonna have to replace all the effected wood before proceeding. I would not claim this damage, unless of course the cost is just to much for you to bear. Reason, you may loose resale value and also your insurance company could up your rates. Good luck.

Ran it out of gas, yes it might take a while to get going again. Electrical trouble, you said that you have had the bike running for a short period of time and it seemed fine. It prolly is. Battery, is it the original? If so go buy a new one. If it is fairly new, I would put the battery on a charger at 2amps or less for a good 8 to 10 hours. Once this is done let the battery sit for a few hours more and then check the voltage. If the battery reads below about 11.5 dcv or so, I would get a new one. Or if your cheap like me, you could put it in the bike and take your chances. Battery set-up and maintence. The XX has a maintence free battery. DO NOT ADD WATER or ACID. If you remove the caps, the acid level may look low, this is normal. Maintence free batteries come from the manufacturer with an acid pack, this packet of acid is added by the dealer or purchaser, next the battery should then sits for at least 1/2 hour this will allow the acid to soak into the lead plates, then the battery is put on a charger for a specified amount of time, it is now ready to be put into service. If done correctly and the battery is taken care of, it will last a good long time. If done incorrectly a very short period of time. Maintence, keep the battery clean and if you let the vehicle sit for a month or so, put a charger on it for a few hours once or twice a month. Hope this helps.

As I stated above. The 1997/98 bikes were set up to run very lean right from the factory, especially in the mid range rpms. Honda does this with all their vehicles, the company loves the environment. With the 2002 model you have a bit more leway in what you can do because the bike has an 02 sensor in the exhaust. This sensor helps the computor to know what is coming from the motor as far as pollutants, thus allowing a more perfect air/fuel mixture with the increased air flow that the K&N provides. However if you were to install some slip-ons with that K&N air filter, I would suggest a PC-3 because Honda's computor is only going to give you so much.

I have a set of Two Brothers C-4 slip-ons. There are no mods needed, the bike runs great.

The 1997/98 bikes were set up to run very lean, especially in the mid range rpms. With this in mind, if you do install a freer flowing exhaust or air filter you can create a situation where you would have the bike bog on you while tring to accelerate. Now with a carburator you have basically 4 circuits. The pilot screw is part of the cold start, idle and slow speed circuits. If this is where the bog occures, Honda recommends that you perform an idle drop procedure. You will need a tac that reads in 50rpm increments. Now if the bog is somewhere between 3500 and 8000rpm You should go after the jet needle, maybe a small washer under the stock clip could act to help raise the needle from the main jet allowing a bit more fuel in. If the bog is above 7or 8000rpm, then go after the main jets. Hope this helps.

I don't even do the Sta-bil, I just stick the exausts out the basement and run once a month to get fresh fuel in the carbs. I do run it till warm. Doing this causes condensation to occure and not only in the motor, but also in the fuel tank. Not good. Get the Sta-Bil with a full tank of gas, change the oil, "Do Not use a 30wgt or less oil" clean and wax the bike, and then charge the battery once or twice a month during storage. Reason for the oil warning. Your 20w/30w oils are not suited for use in the XX's motor. Most of these oils have an API label stating that they are energy efficient. This means that the oil is very thin and it is missing zinc. Why is zinc important, and why is it missing? It's needed to help keep metal parts from rubbing together, in an auto engine this is not so important, you do not have the bearing tolerances or the rpm's. Why is it missing? because as the oil burns the zinc does not, it ends up coating the catalitic converter, so the government said it must go.

Sorry to say that you're not going to find a full aftermarket system that gives you the split mufflers, "one on each side of the bike". Besides why would you a full after market exhaust like this? Honda does already have an excellent header pipe installed. I would stick with just the slip-ons. Look to Erion, TBR, Micron, Akopovick, "speeling" Leo Vincey, "i'm sure i'm missing a few" for some of the very best systems on the market.

I agree, Go out and purchase the Sta-Bil from an auto parts store, stop for gas on the way home, add the Sta-Bil and gas then head on home. I would then change the oil, put a good coat of wax on all exposed metal and paint, then leaving the battery in the bike, unhook the neg cable and hook up a charger. Want to go for a ride in a month or so, just hook up the neg battery cable and go.

Hondabrite, it is great for chain lube and brake dust removal.

Try the auto dealer. Hondas anti freeze is all the same.

A quote from HyperPros web page "HYPERPRO springs are an engineering work of art. Backing up this claim is a lifetime warranty against breakage. Each spring is constructed of the finest grade of chrome-silicon wire and is guaranteed not to sag even after 1.000.000 miles of use. Each spring is shot-peened for strength and durability and then polished to reduce friction and eliminate fork oil contamination" I do believe that they make some good stuff.

HRCA does contract out with varius tow companies. These companies are supposed to have bike friendly equipment. I bet HRCA talks with the tow company about this, but this is about all they will do. Reason, the tow company is an independent company and they are responsible for the people they put on the road, not Honda. If Honda does pay, it will be on a goodwill basis.

Had 9000 miles on my original set of Macadams. They seemed to wear evenly without any suprises.

As far as I know, the shocks are set at the factory. Do not know of a single dealer that would change the shock from what the factory has dialed up, "there could be liability issues" unless you pay of course. To dial it in for your weight and ridding style, I would suggest that you get hold of the past couple issues of MOTORCYCLIST mag, "or check their web site". They did a few how to articles on suspension set-up.

The look, well it is different. I cannot decide if I like it or not. However, I do like that you have that cargo net installed. I bet it does a great job at keeping that Yamaha's rear cowling installed when your running that 215, or is it 205 mph. By the way, my bike has been radared, it ran 179 on a nice long flat stretch of California pavement. I have no idea what the speedo was reading. And you know, "even though the bike was prity stable at that speed", I can't say that I cared much.

A noise, and then to find the front wheel on backwards. That is scary, I would purchase the service manual and check things out myself. I installed the valves and springs. After the job was complete the spring in the right fork was rubbing. The second spacer I cut was strait. The only noise I have now is the oil moving through the orifices.

I use Silcolene Synthetic Pro. Put it on the knight before so it sets up and you will have very little initial fling. After that 1st ride the stuff stays put. 21000 miles on my chain and it is holding up very well.