Furbird

I say cut the running lights and run a big bulb just for the turn signal purposes. I hate the running lights, and that was probably the second mod I did to my bike (right after the exhaust). You could always get some 3 million candlepower floodlights and bolt them onto the side of your bike, but I think it might cause an aerodynamic issue...

Northman and I disagreed on the replacing sprockets with chains argument, and it looks like we're going to disagree on the clip type masterlink. I've run the Tsubaki you mentioned with a clip masterlink on my bike for over 9000 miles with no problems. Wheelies, drag racing, Deal's Gap, regular street riding, no problems. However, I will not buy another Tsubaki because they SUCK compared to the DID ZVM chain. This Tsubaki is almost gone whereas at that mileage my stock chain was only halfway worn. Stick with the DID, you will be much happier in the long run.

The way I understand it, if you run a dry kit (like from NOS or NX) it is required that you use a power commander. That is the only way the engine can get the fuel. So I wouldn't risk it by trying to shoot on a sensor. I know in the LT1 and LS1 f-body's, if you run a dry kit, you have to spray 12 inches away from the MAF or it will freeze the sensor. I'm sure the same is true for the XX. The difference is you can't mount a nozzle in the airbox and stay 12 inches away from the sensor, and also the motor could suck in the nitrous before it ever gets to the sensor. I would buy the kit and the power commander, or do what I did and go direct port.

You are supposed to replace both the front and rear sprockets with the chain. The sprockets wear to the chain, and if you install a new chain on an old sprocket, the chain wears out faster, because it is trying to ride in worn out holes (been there before LOL).

I can help you with the pop-ups on internet explorer. I have a program called "Pop-up Stopper", and it is designed for use with internet explorer. Since I got it (it is free) I have not had a single pop-up on internet explorer. It's been out for a while, so you should have no problem finding it.

I appreciate the honest answer to my serious question. I was hoping to get that kind of response, a clearly understandable one, with enough computer talk to not lose me and enough layman's terms to keep my on track. I certainly hope they release a new version, because it sucks to be able to reply to a bunch of boards on AOL, but then have to fire up Internet Explorer just for this one site. Or maybe you guys just don't want the Furbird participating because he furred his XX like a hooligan stunter Thanks again.

OK. My name is Furbird and I am an AOL-coholic. I know and understand the repercussions of this. However, it is amazing to me that of the 10 message boards I am a part of, this is the ONLY one that I have to open internet explorer for. Can you guys give me a real reason, other than AOL sucks and all that other stuff you have in the FAQ? I just can't understand why this board is this way but nobody elses does this "invalid session" crap.

That's weird Voodoo. My rear is on about 9k now and still going strong. The front is near 14, but needs to be replaced. I do a lot of drag racing too on these tires, so maybe I got a real good one or you got a real bad one.

Continental ContiForce. Excellent traction at the dragstrip, excellent lateral traction, good mileage, and you can do stoppies. Not to mention the cheapest sportbike tires you can buy. Besides, if you hate them, you can sell them to me

I am running the D&D full system. I got it because it was cheap, loud, lighter than stock, and makes more power. I never have seen the purpose in a PCII because NOBODY has maps for D&D on birds. I've got a buddy of mine that just pulled his Vance and Hines carbon fiber slip-ons off, and he will be selling them, if you're interested. I'll get the details and a price for you if you'd like.

www.motorcyclecloseouts.com You will not find a cheaper D&D price, including ebay. I have a D&D and love it. 4 years, no problems (other than the chrome rusting on the header but who looks at the header), and yes it is loud. But considering you can buy (at this price) 3 of them for what one Akrapovric (sp.) or Micron would cost you, then it's a smoking deal. I've run my D&D since new with no program. No interest in buying a Power Commander cause for the same price I put nitrous on my bike :twisted:

See, mine is the exact opposite. When I come off the trailer I have the grabbing problem, but after a couple of passes I can slip it. It might be me though, not being able to practice launches before I actually make a pass. If you can find that post about a cure for that, I would sure appreciate it. I'm sick, am organizing a huge car show for this Sat. for 2 car clubs, and am re-furring the bike, so I'm slammed right now. Besides, I wouldn't know where to begin to look!

Actually, I have streph throat and a serious headache, so the answer to that question would be yes However, I was under the impression that the XX had a lock-up clutch of some type. My clutch is a PITA on dragstrip launches, and I actually feather it in and out while I am staging to keep all the clutches spinning so they don't "lock" as hard once I actually let the clutch all the way out. Whatever it is I'm doing when I do that seems to work, because most of the time it results in a good launch. Still, there are some times that when I come out of the hole the bike stands up or bogs big time, therefore I thought that it was a "lock-up" type clutch. And I know for a fact that they do make lock-ups like I described. I have seen one for a KZ1000 back when I was racing mine, and it did have teeth that progressively locked into place to prevent slippage once it was engaged. Almost like a locking rearend on a 4WD or drag car.

A lock-up clutch is basically like a clutch with gears on it. Once it engages, it locks in place, so it takes an extreme amount of horsepower to make it pop-out. I know for a fact my bike has one in it, and I bought my bike brand new, so it is stock. If it doesn't have one in it, then they took clutch material and springs out of an 18 wheeler because mine locks up all the time, which creates a serious problem when trying to "slide" out of the hole at the track. The clutch is always locking in place, which means you either get big wheelies or bog out of the hole. It takes a lot of finesse to make my bike 'slide' out like you need it to do for good ET's. I thought all XX's came with them.

Negative on the rear cowl, it IS different. I have a 97 cowl and it does not fit properly around my 99 taillight. Luckily, the cowl came with it's own taillight, so if I ever decide to use it I'll have to rig up the light and make it fit. I mean it's close, but it is different, and it rubs the light in some places and has a gap in others.

I found the pictures, I've just got to get them up on my site so I can link them up. They're not the clearest in the world, but you'll get the idea.

If you're oil filter fails and takes out your motor, then you don't replace the filter enough, and Honda will still blame you for it. There's nothing in an oil filter that could fail catastrophicly enough to take out an engine. Even if it split or ruptured, you would have serious traction issues and the oil light come on LONG before that motor let go. But hey, if you want to keep paying Honda $10 for a $3 filter, then you go right ahead. I'll keep on using Honda GN4 oil even though people tell me I don't have to.

No offense, but I'm pretty sure Honda does not make even their own oil filters. Even if they do, all you are getting is a 3 dollar part that they mark up to $10 and stamp Honda on it. I have been running Fram's, but now that this chart came out, I will buy the longest oil filter I can get and the best quality one. A company that makes nothing but filters is going to be a whole lot better at making them than people who build the whole friggin bike!

I have the vista cruise, but I found the way that is described on the site puts the thumb control too low. I notched the area between the two tabs, and put a small screw threw the bracket to act as a lock. This gets the thumb control up higher for easier use (for me anyway). The only downside is I have to remove it to trailer the bike. I'm sure I've got pics around here somewhere, if you all would like to see it.

I have a D&D full system on mine, so take your level and multiply it by 3. It's loud, but I like it, and there is no mistaking me when I pull in to the hangout. Like the fur isn't loud enough or something

I went through the Parts Unlimited, Sunstar, JT Sprockets, and Sprocket Specialists fitment charts and found out what all sprockets fit our bike. For instance, the countershaft sprocket for our bike is the same as on an 82 CB750! Anyway, it should help you out if you find an ebay sprocket and don't know if it would work on your bike. The countershaft sprocket fits a lot of bikes, but the rear sprocket is pretty limited. Only certain 900's, 600's, and other birds share our rear sprocket.

Sorry, I don't agree. I have a D&D full system, and they come with the stopper to retain the center stand. I kept mine because it makes it so much easier to work on the bike without worrying about it falling over. Why buy a swingarm stand when Honda gave you one for free? Maybe somebody who dumped their center stand when they put their exhaust on will sell/give you their center stand retaining bracket.

You can also pull the bulb-side of the pin out from the connector in the upper fairing. This is what I did. Then I smoked the factory amber lenses, so the mirrors appear to be all black until you hit the signal then you see this mysterious amber flash coming from nowhere.

The correct way to do it would to be to lower it at both ends. What I did was to lower the spring rate on the rearend and that solved my problem. I'm about 5-10, 5-11 or so, but only have a 30" inseam, so I had the same problem. I took the rearend down about 3/4" at the spring itself and that took care of it. The dogbone will work, but it changes the geometry of the rearend, which can be a bad thing. If you are dropping it more than an inch, you need to lower the front as well. All you have to do is unbolt the fork tubes from the triple clamps and slide them up higher in the clamps themselves (which lowers the bike). This will also raise your handlebars up, making it easier on your back and wrists and makes you sit more vertical. But remember, the more you lower it, the less ground clearance you will have, and when you add a passenger to that, that puts the bike even closer to the ground. That's a lot of sacrificing for two up riding. I'd really watch it over rough pavement because you will have a high probability of scraping the exhaust and who knows what else when two-up on a dropped bird.

The best way I've heard of is to unbolt the front sprocket first by leaving the bike on the sidestand. This way your old chain and the tire are taking all the stress of removing the bolt instead of the transmission (if you were to have it on the centerstand and in first gear). Also, just for cleanliness, make sure you wipe off all the built up mud, grime, grit, oil, and other small animals that have been sucked into the front sprocket cover/clutch slave cylinder housing. You might want to clean off the chain guide as well. If you have a chain breaker, don't use it. It's so much cooler to use an angle grinder and cut the old chain off (sparks are cool)