Furbird

I would comment but I'm not really interested in having my house burned down.

I wish I was joking but the instructions say they are stamped left and right so you don't install them wrong but I can't find the markings. Maybe I should just ask Zero. And do the opposite.

See, that's the exact OPPOSITE way of the way I was thinking they go on. That seems to move you farther forward on the bars with your wrists more turned inwards. I was thinking they go the other way, so you move farther back with your wrists straighter. I haven't tried to put them on yet so I guess we'll see.

Youtube can't tell me which handlebar is right and which one is left though. Instructions say they are marked but I don't see it...

Received today. Had to youtube how a Throttlemeister works because they literally just look like bar ends!

Payment sent.

Sold on the bars and the throttlemeister.

Flood salvage.... would not buy. Throw in a hooker though and you gotta deal.

Are you trying to run a golf cart off of an extension cord or something? Damn that's a lot of volts. Be better off putting 5 car batteries in series.

I got all three. ATF is here now asking about the mystery liquid in that gas tank. So if you hear a knock, oh well.

Got my 50-ish pounds of stuff today. Lots of mystery prizes too!

I'll take everything else. Sending you a PM.

I went through several sets of front bearings before I finally got a set that lasted. Always use the torque wrench on my stuff and remove/reinstall the wheels myself. Now that's not to say the motorcycle shop didn't overtorque them on the balancing machine...

Lots of stuff starts moving at those speeds. Are you certain it's coming from the wheel area and not possibly a body vibration?

Dad just put Kumho's on the Lincoln Town Car. He's previously had them on a Chrysler Town and Country, a Nissan Maxima, and an Infiniti I30 (same car basically.) He got nearly 105k out of the set on the Town and Country, the Infiniti got totaled by my brother, and the Maxima still has those tires on it and are probably due simply on date code. They LAST. That being said, my state vehicle has Michelins on it and it hit 91k today on the stock tires. Still going.

Sometimes the cheapest solution is the best. Stand on the roof. In all seriousness, for in-home use, the key is to have an antenna outside the house. Even the "amp" and "booster" kits you see all use an eave- or roof-mounted antenna for better signal. The higher the antenna, the more likely to receive signal. I have several businesses I have to go to that are in areas with great signal but they are in a low-lying area. I have one guy in particular that I can drive up his driveway to the main road, which is at about roof level of his business, and go from no signal to 3 bars. If you can get signal on the roof but it's crap in the house, then I'd go with just the antenna.

Ground test plug been taken care of?

Perhaps you should leave a link open on the computer that explains how they actually work. They also go into why you shouldn't use those chemical tabs in your toilet tanks or that hang off the rim of the bowl, why you should buy TP that specifically states "septic safe", what you should absolutely NEVER flush down the toilet, all that stuff that people really have no clue about. http://www.nesc.wvu.edu/subpages/septic_defined.cfm https://www.epa.gov/septic/how-your-septic-system-works http://www.septicsystem.com/additives/

Rid X is pouring dollar bills down the toilet for no reason. The septic tank creates it's own organisms to control what's in it. It's a marketing ploy like Harley Davidson and Fram filters. Had my tank pumped late last year for the first time (been here for 7 years) and the guy said to look up the calculators online to determine pump intervals for your tank. Looks like I won't need to see him for at least 20 years according to that. He also said to look up what the recommendations are for what goes in the tank and what doesn't, and how Rid X is not needed. Put that money aside for an inevitable cracked tank lid, because whether they are made out of concrete or fiberglass, they WILL eventually crack.

I'm searching Google for a "free shipping code" for this deal, but no luck...

OK, gotta say it, that is badass. The last thing I need is another bird (as that would put me at four) but DAMN that paint is cool looking.

Change it now, just to be safe. When mine went out, it filled the entire engine. Fuel was actually above the butterflies in two of the throttle bodies. Put on quite the show when I pulled out the plugs and hit the starter.

Salvage title or clean? That right side frame damage would be a bear. You can't exactly pull that back out, and that's the main fairing mount for the right side, so you'd have to do some rigging (or know an aluminum welder that could build you a new tower.) The forks look twisted, although that could be the camera angle. Your state may be mileage exempt (10+ years is exempt in Alabama) so the mileage isn't that big of an issue. I know it sucks, but you're probably better off selling it as a parts bike and finding something else (once you heal up.)

Had no idea about this process. I'll have to check and see if my new rotors have buttons or not (can't remember) but will definitely have to check the ones on the dragbike and the other bird as well.

Might not be that. I left a disc lock on mine once by accident, got almost a full rotation in before it hit the caliper, and bent the rotor.