ptxyz

shoulda put some details on that, thanks for chiming in jon. battery's several months old, sealed type that sees a battery tender from time to time (not out of necessity). will take the seat off and at least take a look this evening. lots on planning / prep for that road trip but, my mind tends to dwell on these things...

when i went to start my 2000 this morning, i heard the fuel pump briefly then nothing. no lights at all with the key in the on position. bike was fine last night. one odd symptom; when i turn the key on, the clock goes off. key off, the clock comes back to 1:00. have a nagging thought i should have disconnected the battery before leaving for work... fire hazard? nothing unusual as i pushed her to the back of the garage. i'll be taking a road trip to utah in a few days so, won't start messing with it until i get back on the 17th but, would be very appreciative of any tips.

perfect, thanks! might have to wait a bit as the oil in question's already been recycled, i just have the filter. i'd imagine older oil would tell a more interesting story. i'll report the findings.

last oil change (conventional), i let slide to about 4k miles. noticed it had run a bit low (from half towards the low end of the dip stick) on a weekend ride (about 500 miles) and there was a bit more metallic flake in the bottom of the pan than i'm used to seeing. bike has about 50k, 20k are mine. i've saved the filter and before i cut it apart, does anyone know of a professional who would analyze this? i'm finding stuff for aviation only in my searching, so far. i'm wondering if i should get out of this slightly beater bird while she's still running well or, catch up on a lot of deferred maintenance...

just replaced my rear (angel gt), probably coulda nursed another few hundred before seeing threads... a wee bit of cupping, both front and rear. plenty of tread left up front. upon checking my folder of receipts; almost 7500 miles! now i don't feel so bad about paying my local brick and mortar $230 out the door (i brought in the wheel)... it felt great all the way to it's end, i'd highly recommend this one.

there are several local shops that sell primarily accessories but, also dabble in used phones. a few months ago we scored a 5c with 32 gigs for about $230. the shop was also able to do a factory unlock and had a generous return policy. somebody got crazy with a sharpie on the back but, that's hidden under the case.

this is a beautiful bike and i think the kawi parts look great on it! could you comment on how that extended swing arm affected handling? wheelies? wouldn't say i'm a serious sales prospect, just curious about that mod.

if you're on a budget, try the cortech latigo air boot. got mine for $150'ish. they're taking some time to break in and i've missed a few shifts as the toe's bigger than my last boots but, a decent boot overall. i can feel the air coming through the perforations, nice in the summer heat. agree with those above on keeping a 2nd pair of shoes at work. even though i'm at a desk, i'm not wearing those things all day...

while others more experienced should chime in soon, i'd suspect your carbs could use a rebuild or at least a good sync. my 97 ran sweeter than my current 2000 (fi) after letting a local shop sync the carbs.

i've heard that on mass airflow sensor (hotwire) equipped cars, any oil mist coming off a freshly cleaned & oiled filter can contaminate the wire, triggering a check engine light. some buy a 2nd filter and keep it pre-washed & oiled in a plastic bag, ready to install.

i have a rick's in mine and it's been good for several thousand miles. between the 2, i'd go for price until i hear otherwise. wonder if anyone here in the states would re-wind? doesn't seem like it here in the land of "throw away"... i believe zero's referring to the rectifier needing a bit of filing to fit above.

wheels with much more runout have been purchased through ebay... here's my experience; http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=80709&hl= i don't think you'd feel that little runout but, i'm no expert. given you're alreay in with the seller, i'd lean toward giving them a chance to do you right. my experience has taught me that there's something to be said for the security of dealing with a "brick and mortar" you can return to w/o too much expense / inconvenience. my rear with rotor & good bearings was $150 and about 25 minutes away. runout? i didn't measure but, it (if any) was imperceptable on the stand or by the seat of my pants.

having recently scoured the web for wheels, i can offer a little insight on the availablity of rotors. you're in luck. the early (black center) rotors are much easier to find than later for some reason. i wouldn't be afraid of ebay rotors provided you buy from a seller with a bit of history. you'll have to take their word for straightness and thickness (3.5 mm min., iirc) but, ebay / paypal should give a bit of protection. the later gold center rotors are not interchangable. an admin here was kind enough to school me on the differences. the spacing of the mounting holes in relation to the hole in the middle differs. if you need, i can dig up his excellent tutorial. i have no experience with the aftermarket cheap chinese rotors and would prefer used oem.

if paypal works for you, i'll take it! pm sent

does the o.p. know (or anyone else) if that r1 r/r will work on a 2000 bird? mine has 2 plugs as i recal.

why isn't this closer?! i paid $3100 for my 2000 in much rougher condition. were this closer to me, i'd buy.

i'd check the api service grade on the bottles. i seem to remember sf & sg being ok for bikes.

yay! it's back together and seems to ride just about how i remember. having ridden my klr the past several weeks has probably skewed my moto-vision though... the initial test ride revealed a way to stiff front end. i'd finally installed a fork brace (super brace) that i'd purchased several months ago but, man! the binding! i could tell as soon as i rolled her off the center stand. i was only able to compress the forks an inch or so. after removing the brace, things felt like normal. next test ride felt much better. mostly taking it easy as the pirelli angel gts (free front, thanks pirelli!) needed scuffing as did the pads (all 3 rotors, organic for less than $30?!). after several miles of easy riding i ventured onto the freeway to sample what my poor klr just couldn't provide. a newish m3 provided my quarry and after the chp departed at the off ramp it was on. not a downshift required to pace then put 'em in their place. oh, it's sooo nice to have her back! any thoughts on the brace provoked fork binding? i had one (also super brace) on my '87 vfr years ago that helped a lot. the one on my klr has provision to allow the tubes to find their place before cinching everything up. i've heard not all forks from a given model reside in the exact same space. a brace clamping things into a space where they don't want to be can casue binding, i've read. is this one of those cases? might i have damaged my forks when i hopped the curb? while i didn't do the v-block / runout guage on my tubes when things were apart, i was able to freely rotate the tubes in their tripple clamps. the bike tracks straight and there's no pulling while cruising, accelerating or braking. there might be a hint of the bars pointing slightly left while riding in a straight line but, it's hard to tell for sure without an indexing mark.

thanks for the tips, gents. i was making pretty good progress yesterday until it was time to crack that allen bolt at the bottom. i lacked a long reach 6mm allen socket and my mickey mouse attempt with the long end of an allen wrench wasn't cutting it. thankfully, eric and the crew at sporttech bailed me out on that step (eric was already doing seals on an old kawi but was kind enough to pause and help me out). like most of the bolts i'm trying to twist on this neglected (mostly by the p.o.s) bird, these were really stuck! i'll be sure to inspect the slider bushings before i button things back up today. picked up a little trick to avoid damaging the seal during installation; use a piece of plastic bag over the end of the fork slider as a sleeve to protect the inside of the seal as you slide it over those possibly sharp edges. to avoid taking garage space from the wife's conveyace, i moved my mess out to the patio.

i've done this on my klr 650 using a bit of air pressure to pop the old seals. drained the cruddy old oil, flushed w/ atf and refilled to a measured distance from the top. nothing too difficult there. besides reading the honda service manual, any tips or tricks for the 1st timer? i've searched some old threads here and found recommendations for oil weight, spring replacement, re-valving etc but, just want to replace seals and oil for now. i'd been hoping to finally get my bird back on the road after a few months down for dinged wheels (hopped a curb) earlier this week, but found weepy seals and an inside front brake pad that had just worn down to the backing plate (yikes!)...

perhaps i'm naive but, i'm @#$^in' speechless. seriously, the seller's still claiming the wheel's straight?! i've received a non contested pay pal w/shipping refund but, this bugs me. the wheel's good for rollin' a bike around the shop or scrap for beer money. http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-03-HONDA-CBR-1100XX-BLACKBIRD-FRONT-WHEEL-RIM-1100-XX-2001-2002-OEM-/400543236436?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d423cc154&vxp=mtr "ready for chrome or paint", courtesy of ptxyz (now slightly wiser) the chump?! worth a potential pay pal/ebay flame war?

if the bike was fuel injected, has the front wheel and you'd re-consider p/u only, i'd love that front wheel. i'm in san jose, ca and happy to pay for your time & shipping.

little update, i just collected my naked wheel from valley plating here in san jose. $50 for them to take it back to raw aluminum. there's a bit of pitting from corrosion that had started under the crappy chrome but, it's nothing that can't be buried under a little coating, perhaps with a bit of sanding. the local shop with the best reputation wants $125 to powder coat but, given the bike it's going on is pretty rough already i'm still shopping and may end up taking the ol' rattle can to it. this will all have to wait for a week or two since i've other irons in the fire and my klr's been serving my transportation needs. thanks all for your input. here's a pic, never seen a naked wheel before.

just for kix, i took a wire wheel on my drill to 'em for a few minutes. man, chrome's tough! easy enough to blast away the bubbly parts but, just putting a scuff on what's left takes some pressure! oh yea, brake fluid was another thing mentioned...

i got what at first glance was a good price on a front wheel to get my bird back on the road after my curb hopping incident. now that i'm faced with removal of the crappy chrome, i'm wondering if i shouldn't have spent the extra coin for a black one... i've read some on-line tips about using bleach, oven cleaner, 30% muratic acid and a few others that escape me at the moment. any advice on this? i'm not looking for a perfect finish. the bike was crashed and painted flat black by a previous owner. rattle can black is what i'll probably end up doing. i'd be happy with a 10 footer finish on this front wheel. don't care to spend any more coin to complete her rehab. here's the offender.