lois

Use the search feature, there's tonns on this topic....

Pictures? This sounds interesting +1 ...ya, what he said.

Well whatever came in my 01 (platnium I presume) , are still going strong @ 37000K (23000Miles) I'm changing them out this week for a new set of the irridiums....wonder what I'll get out of them :icon_think:

Yoshimura 4-2-1 , very light, border line loud, but I really like the sound of them.

Just mounted a Metzler Z6 rear. Lined up the tire mark with the valve stem, and when checked, no further balancing was required, it was dead on.

I believe that there is a little adjustment in the lever, But I would start by bleading down your Master/Slave before doing anything else. (your clutch set up works the same way your frnt brk set up does) If that doesn't float yer boat, then try the search feature....there's been lots posted about it there.

I believe that the 9a's are irridium instead of platnium..... EDIT UPDATE> the set I bought on ebay are IMR9A-9H, they are irridium.

Just lookin on E bay, I see a set of frame plugs on there for 90$. Has anyone found something that will work that doesn't cost like crazy???

+1 on post Speaking of tapping aluminum, many years ago an old machinest told me something crazy. He said the exact same thing about aluminum galling and tearing if you just used grease or oil. He said (get this) use whole milk as lube when tapping aluminum and it will tap clean. Forgot all about this for many years, but, tried it when I hit a snag drilling out an aluminum head....worked like a charm....believe it or not. Don't know why it works, maybe something to do with the fat in the whole milk.

+1 :icon_goodsign:

I noticed that. Great idea! :icon_clap: Oil filters should be removable by hand. The sealing ring is not a gasket, and only needs modest pressure to seal.True, they can get stuck, and I do own some strap wrenches for them,but normally filters should come off if you have reasonable hand strength. Read the instructions, and only hand tighten. the only leak I've had in 30 years is when the old seal stayed on an engine block, and it leaked immediately. I do like to prefill the filters to help speed up the time to pressure after a change. I like to give mine a 1/4 to tighten, it's rare, but you'v never truly seen God, untill your oil filter backs off, and oil gets on your back tire.....I myself use the hose clamp and tie wire trick.... just to be on the safe side...

When I to do jobs like this, I use a shop vac to pick up the cuttings. After you get the tap "started" put the nozzle of the shop vac right up to the tap as your going in. Rule of thumb is 2 turns in with tap, then one turn out to clear the tap of cuttings that may bind against the tap and screw up threads. I use this method when tapping into oil pans , transmision cases, what ever, to keep cuttings from getting into the oilcase etc. If you don't have a shop vac, then +1 on the heavy grease as stated above.

How much did you pay for that tail??? That is sweet... And where can I get it?? Just a heads up....mototech sells his NOS stock plastics to a company by the name of "Distributionjester" who sells on ebay. Last year I bought a two tail light "round light" nos undertail from this guy for , something like 100$. Yes it is the older model, but it is still sweet looking and I saved a bundle. By the way, I had clearance issue's with the undertail when I installed my red fox hugger, this was remedied by putting a small hole thru the undertail (very front of undertail near shock) and running a zip tie from underneath into the battery comp and then putting a cut off zip end on it to hold the undertail up about 1" works like a charm, and you'd never know it was there.

Yep sure have. Now this is one clean looking bike.... I like the busa front end on Brydman's ride as well, the fireblade rear tail section is a very nice touch. Lots to think about, thanks for the in put so far...

I have been in the automotive electric business for 15 years, and I'm not sure if I would agree with your statement as to the operation of a charging system. Just a quick example, charging systems that run at max output do not last long. Regulators do not like heat....the hotter a regulator gets, the more erratic it's operaton becomes, alternators do not like heat. Hi output = high heat , heat will kill your reg/alternator faster than jack the bear. (thats why your rec/reg is out in the wind at the back of the bird, and alternators have fans in them) Old batteries kill alternators (burn up the stator, diodes , internal regulators) why....because a battery that is past it's prime will always be asking the charging system for more power than it needs. Over time the work load on the alternator WILL burn something up. A battery works a little bit like a shock absorber for your charging system, as the vehical uses power from the battery, the regulator senses this deviation and then decreases the Voltage so that the amperage rises to replace power that has been taken from the battery, right? thats why voltage climbs on a charged system....because the amperage has dropped. Voltage and Amperage work in a see saw fastion, as one rises the other must fall and vise versa. Not trying to start a pissing war bro Anyways, there are folks on this board who have probabley forgotten more about electricity than most of us will ever know.

I was actually doubtful at first, too...but seeing them next to each other, they share shapes of pretty much every fairing. I wouldn't think Honda would be lazy enough to make them so similar, but it wouldn't be the first time they did something along those lines. I'll check out those pages and see if anything looks similar. How badly damaged does a plastic piece have to be to cross the line to unrepairable? Many pieces are missing tabs, some are missing good size chunks all together. I've been checking out eBay like a priest checks out the choirboys (sorry if that offended anyone) to no avail. I've only found one part, apparently the '95s are scarce, or no ones kind enough to part them out. If possible, can I still get a pic or two of one taken apart. Sadly, I've seen my baby naked so many times I pretty much have every mounting point memorized. Whats your 20? Maybe one of us is close to you. Wouldn't take long to pull a side cover and have a look.

So....what did you find?

Has any one replaced the front end (complete) with one from another bike? I have heard that an RC51-CBR600-F4 front end has the same size head brgs and will bolt up. B S or has someone tried this/ done this??

In Canada, we use Methlhydrate.....cheap like borsche, and will remove water like magic. You can put quite abit in, as it will not harm your engine.

Brian, I agree with Byrdman , looks to me like it was put together by someone to block a hole on the air box or pair valve system....or is it a crank case breather.

Metzler M-1 3k rear 6k frnt Love the stickum of the M-1 Rear, but, can burn up 2 of them a summer. Now going with the Z6 rear/ M-1 Front, so far the Z6 rear has been working well, no concerns, hoping to get at least 4k out of it....time will tell Edit> I got 11500k (7200miles) out of my oem Macadam 90 Rear, that came on my 01.

I know, I'm open for criticism. The bike is just so powerful I have not found the need to go beyond 6k. I know there is a lot of chatter on this forum about rev limiters and high RPM's, but just never felt compelled to do it. I'm the same way with the cars; very conservative and very seldom do I floor it unless I need to. I have a trip to Lock Haven the weekend of 10/13 to meet up with a group of Canadians driving down from Toronto and maybe I'll give it a go at the higher RPM's then. I run the premium because BJ's sells it and they don't have a Plus grade. An extra 25 cents a gallon and I do feel the difference. Mike Most birds really don't start to wake up until 7000rmp and up, then look out.

Does your fan work?

I have used a product called FLITZ and had very good results

Yes, but...find yourself a overhaul shop (where they rebuild starters and Alternators) .. not a mechanical shop where they just R&R the units on vehicals. The Starter/ Alternator shop will have a "Voltage Regulator Tester" It's just a little box with a bunch of different color wires sticking out the front. This unit will test 9 out of 10 Regulators. Hope this helps....if not, I'll pull the one off my 01 and figure somrthing out. Lou