rockmeupto125

You're screwed. My guess is the bi-directional spring on the auto-enrichening servo is stuck or broken. You'll have to get rid of the pipes. As a favor, I'll send you a pair of stock pipes, which is best for your machine. No charge, just box up your old pipes and send them to me. I can use them on my snowblower, or something. Really. All the XX's run a bit rich. Not much you can do except to blow it out with a good run down the highway once in a while. Or get a Power Commander.....

Several people have had ignition switch problems. Mine is occasionally notchy. It helps to keep it well lubricated with graphite lubricant. Generally the problem manifests with an initial difficulty inserting the key, then being unable to turn the key once its in. Slightly turning and making sure the angle of insertion is straight can be beneficial if you are just having difficulty inserting the key. Forrest did a nice write-up here. Pictures are nice, but not really necessary. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...&hl=tumbler Do a search on "ignition" or "switch" in the garage and you'll probably find more references. If you can have it replaced under warrantee I'd say go ahead. I've seen some unusual behaviors when using the key in the gas and seat locks. It helps to press down on the cap or seat when you are turning the key to open either, and simply press down on the gas cap to close without using the key at all. The key is long and relatively soft metal, a combination making prone to disalignment and potential failure.

Thanks for that evaluation. Are you gonna build us a super-duty better one?

I checked the thread, and I read it as 3 to 2 against doing anything with the clutch. No matter, its your decision, and certainly not a bad one. Its never a bad decision to replace components that normally wear. Unnecessary, perhaps, but not bad. Make sure you pull your clutch rod completely out and clean it.

How many miles on it, for crying out loud? I've never had to replace a clutch.

I know absolutely nothing about oil bath hubs, so proceed with caution. An oil seal often has two sealing rings on the lip, and if so it has to bend over a bit. Because of that, they often appear to have more material..ie, a smaller hole than needed upon cursory examination. They are also tighter than grease seals, because oils a liquid rather than a paste. So did you just look at them quick and they look too small, or did you actually try to fit them?

Sorry I'm a little late on this one. The fiche is just an artists representation. Repetitive items aren't pictured, so you can't use it as a definitive guide. For instance, only one clutch spring is depicted.......you know there's six. Why in the world do you need to replace all your disks and plates??? :icon_think:

Local dealers have ordered parts as "vehicle out of service" for me. I pay a 10% upcharge and the extra shipping, and get it next day if the regional warehouse has it in stock. Might ask them about it. Perhaps some current or ex dealership employees could chime in.

I know where you smacked the chuckhole. I was right behind you, and I think you got it the wrong way round. That chuckhole smacked YOU. I thought the two of you were going ass over tincups.

Some folks who practice religious chain maintainance have claimed nearly 30 thousand miles from a chainset. That's constant oiling with an onboard automatic oiler. In most instances I've found the chain well on its way out between 15 and 20 thousand miles. The indication that a chain is worn out is not just the "replace chain" marker on the adjustment scale...that's merely one part of the equation. There are parts of the chain that don't wear consistantly, so there may be chain "stretch" in one area and not in another. This will give you a tight section and a loose section....or several along the length of the chain. You might notice this as a change in the pitch of the chain noise or a grrrrnch kind of sound/vibration that's cyclical and roadspeed related. You might also feel the bike slow down or lurch with regularity when you are traveling slowly with minimal or no power (such as clutch in, coasting to a stop). I'm not going to go into all the ways to check a chain here, as there are several, and covered in other threads. At the mileage you have, I'd suggest you change the chain and front sprocket, and inspect the rear. The rear sprocket typically does not need replacement which each chain, but the front does (at 17/45, it makes some sense that the rear wears at 1/3rd the rate of the front sprocket). I think you'll find your XX is notably smoother and quieter with a new drive chain installed. One more thing....a chain wears faster as it ages. So your chain which was fine at 16k may very well be much worse after only 3k more miles.

The XX proportioning valve is not in any way adjustable. The distance from the caliper of a delay valve or proportioning valve is inconsequential in the small distances necessary on a motorcycle. "Well, it seems that nothing on paper is for sure and the only way to find out is to build it and see how it goes. Scarey thought throwing money and work for an unknown." Pretty much my thoughts. Its certainly doable, but I'd push you to try to stay as stock and simple as possible to get the task accomplished. You're not trying to build a one-off custom ultimate farkle. You're trying to make something that works.

Thanks for the link, Shorts, and due respect to you for your perseverance. I don't think too many folks here are really up on what bore sizes will work with multiple difference sized pots. I certainly am not. You can do the math to see if it will theoretically function, but a lot of it is in the feel and travel experienced, and that's a function of the leverage curve provided by the individual lever/master cylinder bracketry. That's pretty deep into engineering, when the only viable answer is that you'd have to try it to see if it works, which is a lot of work, and a lit of "if." There's nothing wrong with the idea....a brake system is a brake system, and fairly simple...but voodoo alteration of the XX system is something that most folks here haven't done. We have some really smart folks here who could do that stuff, but its just not an application in which modification or experimentation is popular or needed by most folks with the XX. That's why I recommended the thumb brake. It allows your braking system to remain nearly all stock, with the exception of the master cylinder, minimizing the potential problems that may/will surface. I'm surprised you considered the thumb clutch at all...its completely contrary to how your body works, as you have already found out. When releasing the clutch, you need your strength, and therefore fine motor control, at the outer end of the release....when your thumb is greatly extended, altering your grip on the bar and at the weakest point of your thumb's range of motion. Its a recipe for error, as you've found. Using your thumb for the brake, however, uses the natural strength and ability you have in that digit. The brake requires light pressure at the beginning of travel, and increasingly greater strength and sensitivity for modulation and control as you increase braking force. It works very well, and naturally. Think about it. As for room on the handlebar, if you really need it to fit brackets and levers, I'd suggest you consider a custom switch housing that might be more compact than the Honda OEM, and give you more working room. XX brake parts are frequently available used, and I'm sure folks here would be glad to try to help as well if you decided to continue on that path. I'm simply suggesting alternatives that might be more easily accomplished. If your heart is set on the linked system....you'll find a way to do it...it just might take longer.

Welcome aboard, and thanks for considering our resources to address your needs. I find this interesting for a variety of reasons, one of which is that I was considering this concept just a few days ago, and had ruled out using both traditional clutch and brake off the throttle hand. Your project certainly seems feasible, but just seems like too much work. Have you considered the use of a thumb brake on the throttle side instead of the traditional lever? That way you'd have your fingers on the clutch, thumb on the brake, and wrist on the throttle. Busy, but it would seem more manageable than trying to run both clutch and brake from traditional levers. The proportioning valves changed in '99 when the amount of rear bias was decreased, but I'm not aware of any publication of the actual bias. Perhaps in an older road test or press release, but I don't recall ever seeing that information.

My E150 without rear seats weighs 5400 lbs according to the scales at the land fill. (Just to keep the thread going ) Here's one I found funny. We don't recycle styrofoam locally...it has to go to the landfill. So I finally am swimming it the stuff one day, load as much as I can in the van, and head out. It was packed to the gills with boxes and garbage bags crammed full of styrofoam...I even had the passenger seat filled. It looked like I had 4 tons of shit in there. They gave some pretty weird looks when I pulled out of there 200 pounds lighter. Oh, but I used an air wrench to put the wheels on....back on topic!

Pegs on the carbed (97,98) and injected (99 and up) are different. Carbed model rubber inserts are higher and have a different pattern.

And are you using the choke, etc, etc. We need lots more information.

Because its a twin hammer design, it should do the job. I use an IR 231 that has a torque rating of somewhere around 500 ft/lbs, depending upon where you get the data. The composite ones that folks like Chris use put out just twice that power. The one from Northern is not that far behind my IR. At worst, you might have to let it bounce a couple of times on a truck wheel to get started. Generally, on my car, I have a hard time letting off the trigger before the nut is off the stud. On the van, it usually takes between one and two seconds to pull a lug nut. On some of the suspension work I've done, the wrench didn't have enough power. It won't take the axle bolts off my car, and they are supposed to be torqued to about 260 ft/lbs. I generally use a breaker bar and a four foot pipe, braced on my shoulder, and lift with my legs to get those bolts off. Hope that description is useful. As I said, I think it would be fine to start with, and would be a good backup when the time comes, rather than just being a waste of money.

I just assumed you meant an air wrench when you talked about taking off wheels. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...05447_200305447 Here's a viable alternative. Its pretty decent, and would certainly serve as a good spare once you purchase a higher quality one. But it sounds as though they are looking locally, in which case who knows what they'd be getting. How about an alternative, such as a good set of 1/2 inch drive impact sockets? A decent full set will run $50-$70, and you are certainly gonna need them....they don't come with the gun, and I strongly suggest you don't use standard sockets with an impact weap....er.....wrench. They might also consider a nice 3/8 or 1/4 inch air ratchet is a very handy device for close quarters work on cars and motorcycles. Or for tightening bolts when building decks...

Works perfectly. You don't have to cut much off. I checked it and mine could readily be returned to the stock position. I can't imagine raising the pedal anyway...you'd have to have a double jointed ankle, wear sandals, and sit on the back seat to use the brake pedal without taking your foot off the peg if it were raised UP from the stock position. And as far as cutting the pushrod......well, its a $14 threaded rod, as opposed to a $75 cast aluminum brake pedal.

5000 pound jack is enough. More lifting power is always nice, but you sacrifice in terms of increased size, weight, cost, and ease of use. Generally, the more you can lift, the less lift per stroke, which has you pumping away for a minute to get the thing up in the air (okay, everybody chuckle and get it over with). A mid sized large frame jack should be fine for your needs. Look for one with a wide stance and large saddle that's not too long, because then it becomes difficult to manuouver and the chassis gets hung up on small things...like the lip from garage to driveway. Technically, 250 pounds should be enough torque for most applications where you would use an air wrench.....BUT!!!! First....you won't get the rated torque from a wrench. Secondly, the reason you see 250 foot pound wrenches and then 500 foot pound wrenches is that the *lesser* ones (and we're talking 1/2 inch drives here) have one anvil, and the higher rated ones are double anvil. That's why they cost more. Trust me....you want a damn good wrench. There's nothing that will piss you off like having all this fancy-ass shit and it still won't take some damn rusted bolt off. Do yourself a favor. Don't fart around....go directly to someplace (online or real-time) that sells Ingersoll-Rand air tools and spend nearly $200. It will be money well spent......and you know how cheap I am. Its really a whole new dimension in maintainance and vehicle care when you can lift one end and take a wheel off in less than 60 seconds.

You real sure on that one?

www.ronayers.com www.servicehonda.com www.umotorsfargo.com

A YTX12-BS Yuasa is what came stock in my '99. Ahh...joel beat me to it!

I just knew you'd appreciate that.

John, just check your voltage at the battery. That will tell you where else you need to test. If its too high, you need a regulator. If its too low, you have other testing to do. It would help if you had a full charge on your battery first. I thought the BEL had a numerical readout, not just a warning signal?