rockmeupto125

I might know somebody...

I've been on vacation, so I'm struggling trying to catch up on this. Did you check the fuel pump relay, swap it out for another one? You can send me your ECU, or I can send you a working one.

I've a strong feeling its the Marchesini pattern. I've forgotten enough trigonometry to figure it out.

It's a lightweight wheel I thought I was getting a good deal on. Came with an aluminum sprocket and I thought I'd change it out with no real problem. The Caro's for instance take a Kawi sprocket as I recall. This is a TWM wheel, looks very similar to the stock one. Here's a representative. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CBR1100XX-TWM-Rear-Wheel-yyy-/264667888588?_ul=IL

Hey all, I'm in need of a special sprocket. It's got a bolt circle of 3.5 inches by quick guesstimation with a tape measure, 5 bolts. There used to be catalogs online that one could search, not any more, apparently, or google searches need to throw you to advertisers negates the actual search. Anybody got any ideas? I need a 530 pitch, 45 tooth sprocket with a bolt circle of 3.5 inches and 5 bolts. Inner bore probably 2.5 inches or so. I just wouldn't expect it to be a proprietary sprocket when there are plenty of off the shelf designs available. Thanks!

That'll buff out. Are the case threads damaged? Tap and die is your friend.

Uhaul of Chandler, McKays Hardware, and Uhaul of Sun Lakes all show it in inventory, $15/day.

You can borrow one of mine. Doesn't uhaul have one with a sort of built in wheel locator, like a divot in the front wall?

If you have something to practice on, then practice. If your bike has Michelins, they are great tires, but the sidewalls are stiff and can be difficult, especially on the front tire with less room for movement. You need the proper equipment, at least good tire spoons. Screwdrivers are not appropriate for this operation. Make sure tires are warm and there's lots of lube. You'll need good air flow as well to seat the bead.

I'm with blackstone. Change the oil and run it. I'd change the oil, run it 'til it starts and runs down the road reliably, change the oil, put 500 or so miles on it, and then send another sample. That will be over the winter at earliest and you'll be able to plan future work on the bike.

Nah, it would cost $1000 to ship it here. Not worth that to me. But thank you.

I wouldn't buy a used vehicle at distance without seeing it myself, knowing the seller, or having one of our distinguished forum friends put eyes on it, or it being so cheap I couldn't lose, all of which have happened. Unfortunately, there are a lot of assholes out there, you know.

I'd be all over this if it was within 500 miles. Looks really clean despite the mileage. https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/1997-Honda-CBR-1100XX-5016405763

You are absolutely right! And i bet i have a picture of that box somewhere as well. Good luck with sale.

It's official. Bucky

Doesn't Fastenall do large shipments as well? 😁

Hi Matt. Your bike was sitting for 2 years and required a new fuel pump. Did you check the injectors? My guess is that they are near solid with crap, and a squirt of starting fluid into the intake while cranking it with the throttle open should get you a satisfying rumble for a second or two. You're welcome. Private message me for my address. I accept both fossilized unicorn poop and RD250LC's as payment for services.

No fancy vom, but my handheld tach works. I did get a chance before the rain really picked up to recheck the voltages in a higher range. No difference.

Good thought. When I have someone here, I'll have them pull the spark plug wires and test that out.

it was tense trying to keep all the jumpers away from ground with the motor vibrating, then trying to clamp them to the meter probes while maintaining some isolation. I'll try to do a better job today. Those continuous to ground show a little bit of resistance, not much. The emergency down does not work if the emergency battery solenoid switch is activated.

I had fixed the problem with the supply voltage on the aux battery line. Now the unit starts and runs without the jumper switch Today I hope to test the isolator and see if the diode function is actually working. There are two safety switches at the bucket. One actuates the solenoid to open the hydraulic and drop the bucket as mentioned. The other actuates the "battery jumper" solenoid just like the one on under the dash. So if all is working well, if the aux battery has decreased power and won't start the Onan, from the bucket one can actuate the battery jumper solenoid and use both batteries to start the hydraulic. I suspect there's some wizardry in place so that there is only power to the Onan and the hydraulic controls when the engine is running. Once you push the start switch, everything stays on until the motor stops. I know the fuel pump does not run constantly. I'll disconnect the battery with the engine running. That should be conclusive as to whether the Onan makes its own juice or not. When crossing the wires I did not think to extend the range of the VOM. I'm stuck in an analog world thinking the "gauge/LCD" would just peg. I need to recheck them on the 660 VAC scale. The "no load" voltage rating is 132. One day my HF VOM (remember the free ones?) read 140, the next day my Klein read 144-145. Not THAT far off.

I labelled the four white wires 1 through 4. Not running, I tested continuity. 1 and 2 have continuity to chassis ground. 3 and 4 do not. 1 and 2 have continuity to each other. 3 and 4 have continuity to each other. Any other combination does not have continuity. Engine running, I tested for voltage. 1 and 2 make 145 VAC. 3 and 4 make 145 VAC. 1 and 3 make 10 VAC. 1 and 4 make .5 VAC 2 and 3 make .2-.4 VAC. 2 and 4 make 14 VAC. I tested 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, and 2-4 for DC without any reading. I did NOT test anything to ground while running, especially after the brilliant spark from either 3 or 4 , I think the alligator clip touched the casing. Apparently the control panel depends on the engine running to energize it. The emergency bypass to the lift valve (that opens the return line and allows the boom to lower) will only work with the engine running.

Will do. Right now I'm in the middle of a massive screwup on my part. Yeah, I'll help you out and change your tires for you. He didn't say his POS vulcan has TUBE tires. 😡

Cal, the battery isolator ir not a part of the genset, it's an add on device to keep the battery that powers the Onan from discharging the main system, but allowing it to be in the system to be charged by the truck's alternator. It's a separate issue at this point. One of the wires that are continuous with ground has both 2 and 4 stickers on it. I'll try to plot these out today.

Crossed the white wires today. The two that have continuity to chassis ground, when connected to my VOM, read 140 volts AC. Any connection with the A and B wires to C and D reads 10-14 volts AC. Ermagerd.