superhawk996

There's a lot more gone than just the bearing, there's a shit ton of rod and/or crank gone too. With the evident heat that went on that thing shoulda been crying for a while.

But if it wasn't debris at that bearing why is that the only one damaged? It could just be that it's the one at the far end of the path so it got more starved than the others, but that's a lot of damage for just a general starving, assuming the others are not damaged.

Plugged the pump's inlet; I WON! But since I'm on ignore I won't be getting a prize😪 But if that's the only damaged bearing it wasn't the plugged inlet alone that killed it, some of that plastic probably got to that bearing.

The filter has a bypass that should let the oil keep flowing, but it coulda plugged the oil pump's intake. More likely, something got through the bypass and landed at that bearing, assuming the other bearings are ok. The obvious signs of mega heat there tell me it wasn't a 2 second ordeal, there was probably something going on with that bearing for quite a bit longer and it went unnoticed.

The amperage is part of it, plus being more voltage. I was shocked the first time I hit the button with the lithium, almost sounded like idle speed before it fired, and fired real quick. Now I'm back to a normal one and can hear the compression strokes during cranking.

I haven't measured the draw on my bike, but 3ish months and the battery was dead. On the shelf they're said to go over a year without a problem. The first time it went dead was only after a couple weeks, but before parking it I was trying to diagnose a problem and I did several short run cycles and and some key on diagnosing so it got drained down before being parked.

I discharged mine way below 11v. a few times. Down to where the dash lights didn't come on when I turned the key on. I used a normal charger and it was very quick to restart.

I'd be a fool not to, I'll take it.

I wonder what cells they use. It might be rebuildable cheaply. I'd open it up to see, worst case scen

Carlos nailed it.

How do you balance charge a series of cells in a sealed case?

I used the Battery Tender BTL14A240C and it worked great. It's quite a bit smaller than stock and about 1/4 the weight. Cranking speed was noticeably faster than with an AGM. It got drained and left to completely discharge a few times and kept bouncing right back. I accidentally sold it in a PWC when it was about 4 years old. At that point the cranking speed sounded similar to a new AGM. It was $120 on Amazon but when I looked again I couldn't find it there.

Ahh, didn't know they used a 60 in the quadra. Being a quadra increases the chances of the noise being a wheel bearing and not in the diff.

What's so special about it?

If you like it it's worth a test drive at least. It could be something that doesn't involve the diff; wheel bearing, driveshaft carrier bearing, brakes, muffler bearings.

No.

Not a single one! Except for Jeff Dunham, Adam Sandler, Joe Rogan, Larry the Cable guy, Bill Engvall, Ron White, Adam Corolla, Bob Hope, Denis miller, ......

I guess we could go full retard and say that no vehicle can be called "always garaged" unless it was built in that garage.

You'll only know if you ask.

The wires will probably be pretty stuck to the plugs, but since you're replacing both it won't matter what it takes to get them off. Blast around the plugs with compressed air before pulling them out, there's bound to be a fair bit of junk around them.

I ca't imagine the factory plugs went 114k. If they did; holy shit! Being that you bought Motorcraft wires you probably aren't gonna cheap out on other stuff and you can't go wrong with OE Motorcraft plugs. There's a good chance that there's something to gain by using iridiums, but I've never tried them in that motor so I don't know. The few I've tinkered with respond well to advancing the timing over spec, I've done 4 degrees over on a few with no ill effects, the MPG and power both rise. Since it's a tweak you'll wanna listen for detonation just in case, but I haven't had any do it. If you have emissions testing you'll probably have to drop it back to within 2 degrees of spec to pass the visual inspection, if your state does that.

I'll take a set! I'll PM you my info.

I ran some of my filtered WMO through the centrifuge and a scary amount of goo was pulled out of it. I haven't set it up to actually process the stuff yet, but it has moved to the top of the projects list. It has 4 steel baskets designed to hold test tubes and a sealed bowl around them. I'm going to poke a hole in the bowl for an outlet and rig up a way to direct the incoming oil to the bottom of the baskets. The clean oil will overflow them, hit the bowl, and drain out into a container or maybe directly to the bag filter...hopefully. At full speed the centrifuge creates about 3,500Gs at the top of each basket and 6,000 at the bottom, that's some pretty serious shit. I found the receipt for the filters. I bought 8 of them in late 2008 for $40 shipped and now installing my last one.

It's a cool basic bike with enough power that looks & sounds good enough to wanna keep it. The front brake is surprisingly strong for a smallish single disc. I find the riding position of any 'normal' bike to be somewhat uncomfortable which reduces the temptation to keep it, and I'm glad because I really don't need another fucking vehicle around here.

It looks EXACTLY like that, somewhere under the layers of grunge. A few hours in Dave's garage and it might be almost that sparkly. From memory the battery is a 2004-ish Walmart Everstart, neverstart according to some around here. A few days of reconditioning and the fuckng thing actually starts the bike. It didn't come back to anywhere near full power, but still impressive. Last time I worked on it was '04ish. It got a new battery, oil change, spark plugs, and whatever other services I thought were appropriate. He rode it a little, parked it for the winter, the battery died and he just let it sit till now. It spent a couple years outside semi-covered then went indoors 'till a few days ago.