superhawk996

Yup. The reason is to seal the parting line between the case halves, any gap or variation in height between the two could let it leak past the gasket. A little dab on each line is sufficient, no reason to go crazy with it. My favorite is Permatex Right Stuff, but any sealant designed for engine oil contact parts should be perfectly fine. If the old sealant didn't peel off you probably don't actually need any, but better safe than sorry.

When I had my '01 I was brewing a plan to gut a set of stockers and put valves in them so I could switch on the fly, never got around to it. I think stockers would look goofy on the current bike (lots of other bling including some CF bits that match the CF mufflers) so the project died. I might throw one on and see if I like it. The two brothers isn't crazy loud and have a nice sound, but I also enjoyed the silence of the stockers. I ran a full Yosh system on the '01 for a bit, I liked the performance but didn't really like the look or sound of a single muffler. In theory the stock header with free flowing mufflers should perform in between the full stock and Yosh, I expect a bit more low/mid range power without as much top end as the Yosh, but more than stock mufflers. Seat of the pants and old memory: the Yosh lost some power up to about 4k and gave a noticeable power boost from about 7k up, bike was stock other than a K&N. Looking at the Yosh header compared to stock it's exactly what I expected. The Yosh system is a ton lighter than stock, but I don't remember being able to feel it. I wanted to do a stock vs. aftermarket slip-on comparison but didn't get around to it before selling the bike.

That's so hard to tell. I've looked for them a few times on ebay and most of them were damaged, some so severely that I didn't understand even trying to sell them as anything other than scrap metal. The few nice ones were over $100 ea. I saw a couple that didn't have obvious damage that weren't crazy $, but the photos were shit and no word about condition..."taken off a running bike". It would be worth checking values yourself, or deciding how nice it would be to sell them to a brother and not having any of the BS that can surround trying to stuff. I have a very nice pair....if I do say so myself, and tho I have no current need for them I wouldn't consider parting with them for less than $200. On the flip side is helping a brother out, and I already gave one to him so I'm all out of free mufflers.

Switching back & forth would be a bit of a bitch, and seriously increasing the odds of damaging stuff. If you wanted options I'd do a stock header & get a set of aftermarket mufflers to swap for stock when you want a little more grunt & sound.

Hadn't thunk of that one, a cop could go on his own and do it. He couldn't use it as evidence to submit, but could use it for his own investigation. It would be expensive and probably illegal, chances seem slim, but it could happen.

So it appears that if the cops had enough evidence to get a court order for a person, based on their name & address or email address, they could get their info, but probably can't walk in with someone's DNA and get a name, but not sure. Since 2015, when they started keeping tabs, there have been 7 info requests for 10 accounts and none have been granted so I think it's pretty safe. https://www.23andme.com/transparency-report/

A possible solution is to put in a T fitting or drill & tap threads for a second sensor and run a bypass wire from the analog sender to the gauge. I rethought my 'resistor in the power lead' idea and I'm pretty sure it would have the same effect as putting it in the sensor lead so I'm pretty sure you can scrap that idea. My guess is that the digital dash sensor has a higher resistance (weaker, lower voltage/current) signal so you'd have to find a way to boost the signal for it to work with an analog gauge. Guessing based on an analog gauge needing more current to operate than a digital, but it doesn't mean they didn't go the other way around for some reason. If the digital gauge sensor has a lower resistance then all you'd need is the right resistor to make the analog gauge work.

There's no reason the analog gauge could't work with the digital dash's sensor, as long as you can modify the signal to the gauge. I don't know electrical shit well enough to say how, but it 'should' be doable. Anything more complex than adding a resistor and I can't help. But I think a resistor in the sensor lead or the power lead would let you compensate for higher or lower resistance sensors so it might be fairly simple. The sweep might not be normal as compared to a stocker with analog, but once you know what the normal temps register on the gauge it wouldn't really matter.

The engine coolant temp sensor used with the analog dash vs. the engine coolant temp sensor used with the digital dash, which also sends that temperature info to the ECU for fan management and probably/possibly engine management.

On a Carbie/early EFI the sensor is only for the gauge, the fan is triggered by the switch in the radiator, so swapping the analog sensor for a digital dash sensor has no impact on the bike. If the EFI bike is using the sensor for the ECU then swapping in the analog dash the sensor will fuck with it. If the digital dash temp sensor is lower resistance than the analog dash sensor then you might be able leave the digital dash sensor in and put a resistor in line with the analog dash temp sensor so that the ECU sees the right temp and the gauge sees the right temp for it to work normally, or at least in a relatively good range where it'll be useful. Or put in a separate temp gauge. Or just ignore the temp gauge since they *never* overheat.

Yup, coolant temp.

Are there documented cases of this happening or is it just tin foil hat talk?

I know some people are just prejudiced against carbs, and I kinda get it, but they haven't given me any issues. Other than the cold start/warm up I can't tell the difference. I went from a '97, to '01, and now back to '97. With big elevation & temperature changes the FI should do better so that could be more of an issue for some.

AFAIK the fan is controlled using a temp switch in the radiator up to about '00, and later ones are triggered by the ECU. If the ECU and gauge use the same sensor then changing the sensor to an early one is likely to fuck with the fan activation and tuning. If that sensor is only for the gauge and the ECU uses a different temp. sensor then all should be fine.

I was hoping it would be one of those $500 buddy barn finds in which case I'd jump on it even with the shipping cost. $5500 seems a little high but I don't know what the market there is. If it's not too rusty it would probably get that here. The IDI diesels have a bit of a cult like following and it seems to keep growing, or at least holding strong. I just sold my crusty hard starting smoke belching shitty tire having dead radio bare bones '88 E-350 cargo diesel for $1000 on the first day and I had a line of people wanting it. I used it for almost 10 years, mostly on free fuel,(used motor oil) stole a bunch of parts for the ambulance, and came up $500; not terrible. The rust and what looks like a hole in the front of the hood is suspicious, but the rest looks pretty nice. Being that it snows the underside could be fucked unless it was well cared for. I just received a driveshaft from a junkyard in TX for my '91 ambulance and it's rusted to shit, not what I expected. Guessing it was a transplant vehicle.

There should be more photos here from the '02 West Coast meet but this is all I could find, it was on the way there: The only TL I rode was a bit twitchy with the lean miss at low throttle, other than that it doesn't make any scary list to me. If I hadn't come off my perfectly tuned SH996 I might have accepted the TL as normalish. That SH will go down as one of the 'wish I'd never sold it' bikes. It was so perfectly tuned it could do hooligan stupid, mundane commute, and even some run from the Hell's Angels with the fuel light on to get to the 2002 XX Bash. It was stock other than high mount titanium Jardines, K&N, and it was tuned by them. It was the bike they used when they made the system so I'm sure they did everything possible to get the best dyno numbers they could. The guy I sold it to was pushed by a bike shop to re-tune it, they fucked it up. He offered it back to me, I took one short ride and said no.

I totally missed this 'till Blackhawk quoted you. Maybe I saw it just enough for it to hit my subconscious because for no explicable reason when I woke up this morning I thought about taking Ashley to a riding class. Anyway, if your girl wanted something to practice with there's plenty of small bikes you can buy pre-scratched on the cheap. She could stick to low traffic streets near home, if you have that, 'till her confidence and ability picks or, or 'till she decides against it. Either way, you gave her the opportunity to taste it safely and support her, that's very cool. I taught two GFs and I did it the wrong way. It was early on in my riding, riding was natural to me and I hadn't learned enough to teach it. I also didn't have a good practice bike, FZ600 then a VF1000R. First girl I taught to ride picked it up pretty well, being tall & athletic helped and being a horse rider may have also. Minutes later she proudly asked her dad to watch her go up and down their street. Making a u-turn on gravel, going into it way too fast, she grabbed some front brake and went down. We both predicted it was about to happen as she started the turn, he shook his head and went back inside. Second girl took to it quickly, and already wanted a bike. I found her a Ninja 250 and she fell in love with riding. She wasn't really a natural but looked like it because she went right into going fairly fast. I shat myself on rides and was glad she only had a 250, she was WOT girl, young and invincible. She had a couple 'dumb' low speed drops, luckily never got hurt. It developed a rod knock about the time we were splitting up and I don't think she got back into riding. This goes with Blackhawk's fear of being worried about his girl on rides. I almost always rode behind her and usually last if it was a group. I was glad I had a 1000 so I could quickly blast out in front and slow her or the group down.

Mine was also red and pretty sure it was a '98 as well. It was probably before I had a digital camera, Carlos is more likely to have photos of it. I just remembered there's a couple shots from the '02 bash. I'll dig in a bit.

My '06 999s felt quicker than the '01 bird but I'm not sure, both bone stock other than K&Ns on both. I wish I woulda done a side by side, I'm kinda shocked I never thought to. My first 999, an '03 standard model, probably wouldn't take a Bird. Depending on which dyno you wanna believe the Bird has about 10-20HP more than the '05-'06 999s and it's supposedly about 80-90 lbs heavier. Not sure which one has the torque advantage, guessing they're fairly close. The non S and older S I think are around 10-20HP weaker Sexiness goes to the S, but the XX has it's own special sexiness. Maybe because they both have Italian paint? And then there's the true original, the 1997 BlackBird. I'm now right back to where I started from. Looks like I was living in a black & white world there. Too bad the white Cherokee wasn't in the photo; one each from Ford, one each from Jeep, and one each from Honda. My and Ashley's primary rides now are red, I bought them one right after the other, and I think they're the first red 4 wheeled vehicles I've owned, funny how that works.

If she decided to do it, my recommendation would be SV650. If she lacks speed/power discipline then maybe something smaller, or a throttle stop, but most girls are fairly conservative and don't try to use all it's got.

It's suspiciously dry under there for having 4 holes in the pan so you're probably right.

Being from a dealer offers some security. Different states have different laws covering what things dealers are responsible for even with an 'as is' sale, but beyond that a dealer is easy to serve and can usually be collected on where a private party can be very difficult. Plus they are more likely to care about their reputation and public perception.

I've never blown one up, I obviously need to step up my game.

I heard they're not making 1910's motor oil anymore either, and nobody wants it. On the flip side I'm on the cusp of buying a 1974 GMC Motorhome which they're not making anymore, but they actually have special/unique features and lots of people want them so they're pretty valuable. We both obviously have some Bird love and I think it's well founded, but just as you found, when your mission changes there's a better fitting machine. The Bird is an exceptionally good machine, and there are so many other bikes that are also great at what they do. If I weren't part of this family I don't know if I'd still have one. I think the Bird has a pretty special mix of strengths and it would be cool if it became one of those 'special' vehicles. From Nomad's search it appears that they are appreciating to some degree. Maybe it's crazy people holding out and artificially inflating them, but sometimes that's all it takes. Early Civics, Pintos, and Gremlins used to be throwaway cars; try to find even a junker for junk yard money today.

I'll take it!!!