superhawk996

The whole destruction event happened in only 2 seconds, obviously there were unimaginable forces and temperatures going on PLUS this is a totally unique super special motor with the most special OEM production line titanium rods Yamaha ever put into a production line motor; there is no way we'll never know why it happened. Hell, it's a miracle it didn't lead to a black hole opening up and swallowing the track.

Especially you because you can't handle knowing that a Cuban knows stuff you don't. I didn't claim that was how it was damaged, someone asked how they can become damaged and I gave one way that I've seen it done. A decent person would just say I didn't lever it on so I don't know how it broke, or something like that. Or say that with this motor the chain can't be levered onto the sprocket because there's not enough room to, or for whatever other reason, instead you insist on being a fucking asshole about it. TIAIBTHIAE

I know of a few people that used a 'pry bar' to force cam chains and belts onto the sprockets. Some of those engines ran for a while.

🤣 I'm clearly his biggest trigger, he's probably having a difficult inner battle because of his unexplainable love for my weak minded low self esteem uneducated retarded Cubanism. Or maybe he's just jealous after hearing so much about my spectacular cock around the family dinner table. Anyway, I've decided to stop trying to have any logical exchanges with him so hopefully he'll chill out a bit.

😂

If you ever come to So.Cal. I'm kicking your ass!!!! Probably more scary when Tomek threatens someone with an ass kicking, but I tried.

As long as it was synthetic fluid you'll be fine.

YEA, it's Steve's fault! Thanks Poida!!! I shoulda just backed away from Tomek and didn't, sorry. On the upside, there's been lots of brake pad talk so Steve's answer should be addressed.

It's funny what lengths he'll go to to show that he's wrong. But he does know how to destroy a motor, I haven't pulled that one off, so I'll give him that.

I'm also very curious about it. There's obvious damage to several links, but without seeing all the parts there's no way to say why. Even with the whole motor in my hand I don't know if there would be a way to know why it happened. Your guess of something being dropped in while doing the work makes sense and it was my first thought, but living for another 500 tack miles after that doesn't quite jive. Maybe the chain was levered onto the sprockets and some initial damage was done that then damaged the guides. It's also possible that when the rod went the shock load snapped that link, but there appears to be too much damage for the link to be an after-effect unless he continued to run it to get off the track. It's also possible that everything was done perfectly and the chain just broke for no good reason.

Steve, sorry that we polluted your thread. Hopefully it's over.

I never said that the HH is a race pad you fucking fucktard, again you're reading your thoughts into my words. And you apparently don't realize that EPFA is an HH pad despite the info being right there in the link you provided, I don't understand your continued ignorance/misplaced arrogance. Or maybe you're just suffering from CDS (Cuban derangement syndrome). Either way, I'm done with you on this topic. Pretty sure the GPFAX is also an HH pad, but it doesn't really matter since that's a non DOT race only pad and we're talking about brakes for street bikes, not GP race bikes. And because you're a fucktard. You're a dick and I'm done being nice to you, go fuck yourself, or your mom, or whatever makes you feel better about yourself. And fuck you.

You apparently don't realize that EPFA is an HH pad despite the info being right there in the link you provided, I don't understand your continued ignorance/misplaced arrogance. Or maybe you're just suffering from CDS (Cuban derangement syndrome). Either way, I'm done with you on this topic. Pretty sure the GPFAX is also an HH pad, but it doesn't really matter since that's a non DOT race only pad and we're talking about brakes for street bikes, not GP race bikes.

https://ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle-road-race-trackday-brakes/

...that's overweight and could actually use race brakes?!?

Somewhere under the smoldering pile of ashes.

Sintered pads, like the HH, are common on sport bikes and some others.

How do you manage to pass on bad info so often? EBC HH is the go-to track day pad, not just said by riders, that's what EBC says. And synthetic brake fluid absorbs moisture, it basically says so right on the bottle. An organic or semi-metallic pad would be less than ideal for hard use, but they're good for normal riding. There are different flavors of HH, but in general they're an all around pad that's more 'race inspired' but still good for street use.

I ran Galfers on the SuperHawk, no complaints. They suggested different types front & rear, one was the green and I think the other was black. He suggested a less aggressive pad for the rear which I think was the black. The Galfer pads look more like automotive type material and they say the rotors last longer with them. No clue on price. HH pads seem to be everyone's go-to, no idea if they're actually better in some way or maybe it's the racer's choice so the street guys use them. Way back I read a long article about pads and the effects of different materials, but don't remember the specifics. Some have more initial bite but less progression as the pressure goes up, some are the opposite. Some do better with high heat like hard track use. Tho kinda spendy they can last a really long time, depending on how you ride, so it's probably not a place to look at the cost as a priority. Any will work fine for most conditions, but rather than take a user's suggestion without reasoning for their choice I suggest a little research and choose according to your needs/wants.

🤣🤣🤣

I washed my Nextel a few times, never thunk to use the washing machine. Smart.

AFAIK there's no way to balance charge without individual connections to the cells. There might be some voodoo circuitry that makes it more balanced than other batteries, I'm guessing it's just a gimmick. I would side towards disconnecting it instead of using a maintainer. I have no special knowledge to say that's the right suggestion, just what little I know about lithium makes me think that leaving it to stand on its own would be better than constantly feeding it to counter the bike's drain. If the bike has no drain then no biggie, just walk away.

Pretty sure you'll need a special charger to make use of those balance charging connections. But for normal charging none of them need a special charger.

And acknowledge that I was right about the clogged pump inlet. I have answers, do you?

I doubt he's even read my theories and what he posted has nothing to do with defending anything. I invite education and don't at all mind being proven wrong, I'll even entertain unproven reasonable evidence. Since you refuse to have an honest conversation it's impossible to get anywhere useful.