superhawk996

Almost positive. And a 3 barrel carb, the CVCC has a unique dual combustion chamber system. Two barrels feed the main combustion chambers like a normal system and a tiny one feeds the 'pre' combustion chamber where the spark plug is.

Modern stuff? In any vehicles? Or just old industrial type stuff like hit-miss motors?

The pressure doesn't matter, I gravity bleed 99% of the time. Angles of shit definitely matters. I'll park on ramps or blocks, or jack the vehicle as needed. The 'trick' to bleeding a master is to angle it so that the inlet port of the cylinder from the reservoir is a little higher than the outlet/pressure end, this lets bubbles in the cylinder rise into the reservoir. With a cage that sometimes means lifting the rear of the vehicle, on most bikes just turning the bars will angle the master. Angle also matters on calipers & clutch slaves. Most calipers & wheel cylinders are mounted so that the bleed nipple is at the top and nothing needs to be done, but if the vehicle is on an angle it might not be. Bike clutch slaves may require you to tilt the bike to get the nipple at the highest point. Whenever you're opening the system like to replace a hose or caliper, if you push the master piston in a bit it'll block the fluid in the reservoir so you won't have as much mess and won't have an air locked master. A zip tie or similar works great for front brakes/clutches. For the rear brake I just put something between the pedal and stopper if it has one, or wedge something wherever it'll work, or hang something from the pedal to keep it down. With cars I generally use a prybar or whatever between the front of the seat and pedal. The piston doesn't have to be moved much to block the inlet port, 1/8" or so should do it, but more is fine. If you put pressure on the piston be aware that when you first crack something open you'll get a little squirt. When doing just a fluid exchange all you have to do is open bleeders and let gravity move the fluid through, if you wanna speed it up you can pump the master. I've been solo bleeding for over 20 years with no 'special' stuff like pressure bleeders or check valves, it's easy once you understand the system and pay attention to the angles of stuff.

We had a '78 Civic that did mid 30's in mixed driving. On one trip to Vegas it did 42.5 including 2 days of street driving and a few long stretches at WOT. 4 speed manual and a 52HP 1.5L carbed with points. No electronic controls and possibly the last car to have a manual choke, and the only car that didn't need a cat to meet emissions specs.

Harleys are said to get really good MPG, your 35 seems like a low guess. I believe the number I've seen tossed around is 40+, some do 50+. Harley motors are slow revving low performance engines compared to a XX and that makes them more fuel efficient even tho they're in a less efficient vehicle. The power potential of a naturally aspirated engine will mess with potential MPG; cam specs, RPM, compression, bore/stroke ratio, ports & valves, rod/stroke ratio, displacement,.... The more power potential you add the more likely it'll be to get less MPG and have higher emissions. If you put the Fit or Harley engine into a XX the MPG would go up. If you put the XX motor into the Fit the MPG would likely plummet. The Harley motor might do ok in the Fit.

Just a guess, but I'll bet the Fit doesn't make 130hp/liter or do 0-60 in under 4 seconds.

Easy math, it costs you 1.5 pennies more per mile to use the 'better' gas.

If you're trying to bleed out air on the kickstand that'll be a problem since the bleeder will be at the low end of the slave cylinder--from memory of where the bleed nipple is located. I don't know what it is about clutches, but many have troubles bleeding them, and not just on bikes. The most troublesome on I recall was a forklift way back in my learning days. I've since had no problem on any vehicle despite 'everyone' saying that the only way is to back-bleed with a pump. The only thing I think I do that is different from other people is paying attention to angles and working with gravity. I'm also careful not to let the master go dry when opening shit downstream so the master doesn't have to be bled.

Possibly, tho I would think the same would happen when a tire is close enough to need no weights. I've had a few that needed none or just one weight. Have you ever noticed a new car with what looks like just the steel clip part of a weight and no weight? I was told they do that at the factory as a visual inspection thing to show that it was checked and didn't need a weight. Seems kinda silly, but I can't think of any other reason they'd do it.

As a tire wears there are slight changes that occur in the structure of the tire and that could change the balance. The tires can rotate on the wheel. I don't know if all tires do this, but I experienced it with one of my Mustangs. I did a lot of drag racing and that may have caused or accelerated the process. I was only checking the rears and only because I knew I was stressing them more than 'normal'. Uneven tread wear and tread damage will obviously do it. Hard off-roading causes tread damage, but I've seen street tires with chunked bits of tread, possibly from going over curbs or just hitting shit on the road. I had some shitty tires on my Explorer that would repeatedly go out of balance quickly, but they had obvious amounts of runout.

That would explain why you can't manually balance with beads in the tire, but I'm talking about adding beads with weights already on it and the recommendation to remove weights when adding beads. I repeatedly see people on forums saying that the weights will fight the beads, makes no damn sense unless the wheel was improperly balanced so far off that the beads can't counter it.

It's not about one side of the tire being heavier, the wheel/tire combination will almost always be heavier on one side and that doesn't matter. The light spots will generally be in two different places between the two sides. When you static balance, whether done by one of the DIY methods or a machine, you find the light spot for the whole thing (combination of inboard & outboard light spots 'averaged' out to one spot) and counter that with weights. Dynamic balancing will show the light spot inboard and the light spot outboard and let you counter both of them independently to get a better balance. The wider the tire/wheel is the more important it can be to go dynamic. Above that would be 'road force' balancing. A roller puts load on the tread while the machine spins it and they can balance out imperfections even better. This might have been what you meant by 'one side being heavier' and already understand it all, but I spelled it out just in case and for the next guy who's curious.

What I always wonder is why they say that you must remove the weights to use beads, makes no damn sense.

There isn't a lateral balance, AFAIK. It's a vertical balance on the inboard and the outboard ends of the tire and it's called dual plane or dynamic balancing. I don't know if beads can do dual plane balancing like weights can, but most people who use them love them. And when you do it your way with weights you're not doing a dual plane balance so if that satisfies you the beads should also. When I do the DIY balancing I let the heavy end fall to the bottom, then do the back & forth thing to try to get rid of a false position due to friction/stiction. I think it would work better, or at least faster. On one car I used the idling engine to break the stiction, it seemed to work really well. Repeated spins of the tire had it settle in the same place every time, within an inch or two, which is as good as it gets unless it's hugely out of balance.

On the left side, press in and down, then it'll swing away from the bulb and towards the right.

I can't imagine the bags being the cause.

I've had many experiences with that stuff, particularly in RVs. With my old one I had to manually light the heater, oven, refrigerator, and water heater at the beginning of a trip, and remember to shut them all off at the end, but I was never stuck in the desert with non-working shit like everyone else's modern electronic stuff did to them. But theirs were more efficient and (if working) took no thought or effort to operate, just hit the power button. I can't count how many times people had to come cook, shower, and hang out in my tiny old box because their rolling mansions weren't working. The leveling jacks is a big one, mine took a fair bit of time and energy to deploy, 4 screw jacks and wood blocks. I was never stuck with unhappy electronics or leaking hydraulics. My previous washing machine lacked a spin rinse cycle, a stupid omission. A few minutes with a file on the timer wheel and voila. If I could re-program the many retardations out of my newer Electrolux I'd jump on it. I've had to pull the plug to reboot it a few times because it just locked up and it's not even one of the extremely modern types, scary thought.

When I went from a '97 to an '01 I thought it was pretty cool to not have to mess with the choke, but not a big deal. When I went back to a '97 I briefly though 'this is some bullshit', but I got over it. There was also a WTF moment every time I turned the key and the fuel pump didn't prime. An automatic choke would be pretty cool and I'm surprised bikes never had them. Scooters all did and it seemed to work great. Modifying is another area where the old stuff can be better or worse. If you have the technology, modern stuff can be super easy to modify, but if you can't talk to and modify the brains of the system you're possibly fucked. Technology still amazes me, and scares me a little. With my 7.3 powerstroke I love that I can touch a button on the dash and the engine is transformed from a mild cruiser to a tire shredding dragster, but my old 7.3 has never suddenly decided it didn't like the chip in the key and refuse to start 370 miles away from home like the PS did to me.

My understanding is that the headlight/front fairing has to come off to get to the low beam bulb, but I've never tried.

Thinking about it, it's possible that I was a hair paranoid since I did carry a spare brand new distributor on board, along with a starter and other stuff.

We know that carbBirds are the best, accept the others' ignorances. There are lots of ups and downs both ways regardless of vehicle type, same goes for electronic vs. mechanical ignition. EFI & electronic ignition are generally perfect until a problem arrises then you might be stuck, mechanical stuff can degrade over time needing some maintenance but rarely fail without notice. If I'm venturing out into the boonies I prefer a carb and points, but the modern stuff works better when it's working. I put electronic ignition into my sandrail because I wound up with a new one for free and it *should* be better than points, worst case scen...... On my first run, and only time I ever left camp alone, it died a very long walk away from camp. Luckily I had tools and a set of points with me. A buddy offered me an electronic ignition for my previous boat; fuck no, I go across the ocean alone.

No, it's an EFI thing.

I've never been a fan of wax, but many people who've done lots of miles love it. To me it seems like it's a good sealer, but I can't see how it would get into the rollers and lubricate. I use Silkolene Road and it seems very slick & smooth. Chain lubes could be as bad or worse than a motor oil conversation, at least with motor oil you can look at analysis info to get some useful data. Considering the wide array of shit people use on a chain it almost seems like anything, including WD-40, works perfectly fine.

That's a shocking amount of WTF? even for you.

From what I can see it's the typical honeycomb. It's in the first section of the muffler right at the header so if one wanted it gone it should be fairly easy to break up and pour out. Cat guts aren't easy to break, but at least this one's easily accessible.