superhawk996

In case you don't know, fork oil labels don't always show the true viscosity. Way back I found a chart that showed different brands and labelled weights and what the actual viscosities were. Some were dead on, some were way the fuck off. Like 7.5 from brand XX was thicker than the 10 from brand Y.

If the oil level is near normal a couple mm might not be noticeable, but "oil air gap has no affect on sag" isn't true because being far enough off can make a difference.

For the record, I like the sound of both, but had to take the easy stab.

Well of course, but nobody in his right mind would own either of those goofy ass motors, let alone both of them.

Wrong.

Yup, Commiefornia. Race gas at the pump (100 unleaded) starts at $10/gal. and the closest station with it is about 20-30 minutes away. AV is much cheaper, but harder to get. I've run my weed whacker on race gas just because I had it and it smells nice, but I never had problems with E-10. It started and ran a little better on E-10, especially in cooler weather, probably because of the lower volatility of race. The only problem I can attribute to E-10 was during the switchover in a 1980 F-250 that sat a lot between uses. The accelerator pump nozzles would clog up, but after running a few tanks of E-10 through it the problem vanished. E-10 can cause problems, it can also prevent some so to me it's a wash. It's less stabile, but I've had it sit for many months in stuff without issue. The gas in my motorhome was probably over a year old, maybe two, before I picked it up from Carlos and it showed no signs of problems. I use it somewhat frequently, for an RV, but it has sat for a few months at a time without any issues with the main engine nor generator. My carbed BB has also sat a few months at a time without issues. My yard tools are now battery powered, way better.

I think it’s illegal to sell non-ethanol for “normal” use here. The only non-ethanol I know of is race and aviation gas.

I can't answer your question, and I think you should stop thinking that a harness replacement is the correct action. The problem might be at the test connector, a pretty common problem, fixing it is much easier than a harness replacement. If it's a broken wire to one sensor it could be fixed by adding an external wire to bypass it, also much easier than replacing the harness. Hopefully the shop told you what fault code(s) the bike had, if not you can easily pull them. If there's more than one fault my money's on the test connector. Test connector faults are most prevalent in '99 and '00 models, but it happened to my '01. The procedure for fixing them is the same, but the '01 model's connector is in a slightly different location.

Other than AV or race, we have no pure gas options here. If we had the option I might buy it, but not if it was more than 3% above the price of E-10.

Yup.

The chart is labeled 'track day and race data', maybe they don't recommend those pressures for street use for a reason and chose 42 as a safe number. Running high is safer for the tire than running low, maybe they're just covering their ass. I've done very little air pressure experimentation with bikes.

With only minor handling in the store, their Icon stuff looks to be closer to Snap-On than Craftsman, and far from chinesium. They'd be a strong contender if I were starting fresh. Only downside is not knowing if they'll be around in the future where something like Kobalt or Craftsman seems more likely to stick around. I haven't paid attention to the standard level HF tools. The super chinky junk tools that used to be everywhere seem to have mostly vanished.

Are there similar charts for street sport tires? I've always assumed that the rear could be run with less than the front just based on their size, but since all the factory recommendations are for more in the rear I assumed I was ignorant to something. Just about every Jap sport bike I've looked at recommends 36/42. The Ducs I had with the same size tires recommended lower, and from memory the F&R pressures were closer to each other.

Some, maybe all, of them use a pawl that grabs two or more teeth at a time to help spread the load so they could be as strong as a coarse toothed one. Metallurgy and precision will make a bigger strength difference with the fine. I've screwed up a couple of the coarse, but don't remember if I abused them; probably. I have one fine that has a very sticky selector, but don't remember if I abused it. I've used ratcheting wrenches as 'backer' wrenches with an impact gun a few times, quite abusive to them.

I'm not well organized, but it's decent most of the time. The home wrenches are mostly just laid out in order on carpet type drawer liners. They shift a bit when the drawers are shut too hard, but it's not bad. The ambulance wrenches are mostly in slotted trays to try to keep them organized, but big bumps disrupt that.

Excluding the very expensive professional brand wrenches I have (Snap-On, Mac, etc), I really like my "Craftsman Professional" set, don't know if they still make them. The Icon line from Harbor Freight looks pretty good but I haven't used any. The regular Craftsman are satisfactory 99% of the time. I have some 6 point pro-grade I got in a used tool bundle decades ago, I've only used them a couple times, they don't need to exist. I have several brands of modern fine tooth ratcheting wrenches and love them. I also have sets of the really old style with the big teeth from pro names and Craftsman, they're ok but not great due to the large swing needed to jump teeth. The pro grade are a hair better but not worth the $. If I were assembling a set of ratcheting I'd probably choose fine tooth swivel head. I say probably because I don't own any and have only used them a few times, but I think I'd like them the best.

Looks like the gas prices in CA. ...at the cheap stations.

I think that's the first time I've heard someone advocate running the same pressure F&R.

This is assuming it's a normal gauge open to the atmosphere. There are some calibrated gauges that are 'blind' to the atmosphere, that gauge would read 40 anywhere. Also, this is all my theory, I could be totally wrong.

From sea level to 5,000 feet your gauge will read higher by about 2.5 PSI with the same amount of air in the tire, not a huge difference. For clarity; if you were at 40 psi at sea level and rode up to 5,000 that same gauge would read about 42.5. Should one adjust for it? Dunno. If you had decided that 40 was perfect for you my gut says that you should run the indicated 42.5 instead of dropping it to 40, but don't know. Never gave that any thought before.

Depends on the demand. I have welded from a generator but it was an old school non-inverter type around 4000w.

One of these will run a small/medium size A/C. One plus a soft start like Ice posted will run most, maybe all sizes of A/C. It may not leave much for running other things at the same time. Two in parallel should let you do anything you want, unless you have dual large A/C units then you might be a bit limited.

Did you get the troubled ones fixed, sell them, decide to deal with the hard start? Being NIB they'll be easy to sell. They're about 50lbs each with packaging and not very big, shouldn't be very expensive to ship. I wish I needed them enough to justify the $, those are great gennies.

So what's the story here? You bought two that had issues so they sent you free replacements?

I'll give you the full brand new price, $79 each.