superhawk996

Fun bike. I had the early low boost version, then modded it to be a little over the late model's boost.

Google "o2 sensor bung", you'll find plenty of them. Look at where a stock one is mounted and copy that, the location and angle doesn't have to be 100% exact, but it's somewhat important. There's also clamp on o2 bungs to avoid welding, but I don't know if that would work on a Bird's header.

I woulda asked for a second opinion.

I haven't tried a wrap, but Jet Hot coating dropped the header tube temp from about 400F to 300. I didn't experiment enough to know if it would change the engine temp, but it should help some. These do get hot at idle, but won't overheat unless something's wrong. If they did there would have been a big piss up with Honda a long time ago. And humidity makes a person feel hotter but doesn't make an engine hotter so that 95% thing Fur mentioned is irrelevant. Fizzy brought up some things worth checking. Also, the gauge could be lying so checking the engine temp with something else would be a good idea. I use an infrared thermometer and check the thermostat housing to verify temps.

Or slightly less obvious; put gas in the tank?

And, even if everything's connected properly gas will only flow while you're cranking so it'll take a moment to re-fill the carbs, if they sat long enough to dry out.

With a carbed bike there's very little left to feed, taillight and ignition.

A liberal dose of acetone should cure it, whatever the problem was.

I was feeling like this was happening, just based on the couple things I have for sale, but wasn't sure.

Everything is worth what someone's willing to pay, and this is the first in a long time that sold for that much.

No. And your "diagnosis" is an assumption, not a diagnosis. I don't play with dehumidifiers, but it's basically the same as a refrigeration or AC unit. Every time I've seen an iced condenser it was lack of air flow.

Pretty normal for some batteries and chargers. Is it AGM or flooded?

I'm far from an expert. I seeded my backyard with no prep, grass grew like mad. It had rained a lot and there was more rain coming so I timed it to where I wouldn't have to do a fuck all for it to germinate. I did add some kind of lawn fertilizer stuff, tiny white balls that are supposed to be time release stuff. I spread that with the same seed spreader, a plastic hand crank thing. I believe my soil is clay, super slick & sticky gooey mud when wet and close to concrete when dry. No tilling, fertilizing, or any other stuff has been done as far back as I can remember, a few decades at least, if ever. Now that it's been hot & dry it's starting to yellow, I've been watering here & there to maybe keep it alive. A green fluffy yard is nice, but not a priority. I mostly seeded to keep the yard from being a mud pit that gets dragged inside and to have it pretty for my B-day party that got Covided out. For the next few months grass is mostly just a dust minimizer.

I considered the HF one way back and was talked out of it by people who know better. "you can put together something much better for less $". Problem is knowing what to ged and how to put them together. People who know this stuff will say similar about Ring and all the other commercially available stuff, but even those in the know have troubles with their 'custom' systems and the people I know with Ring and other similar stuff seem to have no issues. One of my friends is a contractor specializing in wiring/installing computer and camera shit, his system has been dead for months, but I haven't asked why.

Re-burry it and pour a little concrete along it so it can't bend and pop back up? Or maybe strap a steel pipe to it to do the same? But since it's not connected and the two ends don't line up it sounds like you might just wanna pull it up or whatever needs to be done to connect it, then re-burry. I have no idea if it'll ever be needed, never heard of such a thing. I can only compare it to the bilge pump on a boat, "I've never needed it" wouldn't make me cap it off.

So it just stops for 5 minutes each time it records?!? I think that would be a deal breaker for me.

Is it truly that simple? No configuring stuff, no need to plug it into a hard drive or internet or anything? How much video time will the card hold and does it automatically over-write if it fills up? Will it be easy to extract the video/audio from the card to see it on my computer?

A quick look shows that there are very few complete/undamaged ones listed for under $5K anywhere in the country and that one is extra flashy which might help it. My previous comments were based on Blackhawk's KBB post, not my own looking around. I saw that she has it listed for $5k, seems like it should sell fairly easily according to the comps, assuming it has a following.

If I were her I might respond with "my friend said it should be worth closer to $4,500" and see what he says. Then probably take what he offers even if it's only the 3,500.

That's a pretty reasonable offer, on the low side, but not retarded. That person will probably pay more. Unless that bike has a really strong following advertising and dealing with people may not be worth trying to get a few hundred more when there's someone ready to seal the deal right now.

Strange that they make them with three grommets. How'd you end up with so many?

Any engine will commonly get hotter if left to idle right after being under load, but yours is going higher than I think it should, assuming that you have some cruising time between the high speed run and stopping in the driveway. If you made a fairly quick stop after being at high speed it could be normal. A bad thermostat is unlikely to be the cause, a bad cap not holding pressure is possible.

Get a borescope/endoscope camera and take a look around in there.

.Nope.

I would not be the guinea pig for sure, going from 1.7W to 5W is a big jump. Aside from the potential of meling stuff, they probably won't last nearly as long as the stock ones. I also don't understand wanting brighter instrument lights.