superhawk996

Take it back and see if they'll fix the fork leak. As for the friend, unless you think he's in cahoots with the shop I wouldn't hold it against him.

Aluminum skin is pretty common with old motorhomes, never heard of one using galvanized steel. Take a magnet to it, I'm curious to know if it actually is steel.

I briefly poked under the dash and was reminded what a train wreck it is under there, shitloads of wires all over the place. It's parked against a wall and I can't fully open the door to make it halfway reasonable to work on it, I've got too much other shit to get done so it'll have to wait. Worst case scen

Unplugging the battery rebooted it, should be good to go now. It must be a highly sought after radio, they're sold out. https://www.ebay.com/p/1440357420 It appears that they made it from about '79-'84, maybe Winnebego installed it as part of the fancy motorhome stuff. It sounds decent enough and with the FM modulator we can stream super hi fidelity noises music.

There was no panic in the switch flipping, and the switch going out wouldn't explain it pulling power from the house battery since it's wired to the starting battery.

Almost every one I saw had the black handle, mine did too. Did, 'till I saw a photo of a blue one and decided to clean mine....yup, it's blue.

Some have the thumb wheel on the drive side so they retain the lever instead of the rotating switch. When I happen to be using a ratchet with the wheel I occasionally use it.

...is the name according to the interwebs. I found it today in my FIL's stuff while prepping for an estate sale. In good condition they get $100 and up on eBay, kinda nutty for a tool that most people wouldn't have a real use for. Seems to be more of a tool collector's thing, but some people report using it a fair bit. Well shit. I tried to post photos and they won't so I guess you'll have to use the googler.

So maybe it wasn't my nervous fart that I was smelling.

I clicked it a few times before disconnecting the engine battery, then checked the voltmeter to see if either had been drawn down enough to warrant charging, both were showing different voltages. Neither was low enough to say which was powering the lights for sure. Probably the house because it's always notably higher and they seemed closer than usual.

Shit. The last person in it was Mikesail, our beer selection was pretty poor that evening, he's an electrical engineer. Mother fucker.

I have both 5g and a smart meter, but the motorhome's roof is an aluminum sheet, equivalent to a foil hat, it should be safe. It is on the edge of my earth, I may have to consider that.

I walk past the back door on my way to the shower and notice that the motorhome's parking lights are on....WTF? I flip the light switch on and off a few times to both the parking and headlight positions, still on with the switch off. The parking lights get a little brighter when switched on so it's obviously not a perfect connection to them. Not wanting to fuck with it I disconnect the engine battery and they're still on; double WTF. They're being powered by the house battery which should have no connection to them. I flip the switch on and off to the parking position a few times, now they don't get brighter when switched on, but still won't turn off. I flipped it to headlight and they turned off. Switched them on and off several times, no power just as it should be. Re-connect the engine battery and they're still off and working normally when turned on. All I can imagine is that there's a wire from the house battery circuit that came into contact with the light circuit somewhere and turning the headlights on overloaded that weak connection breaking the contact. I'll have to do some digging to see if I can find anything. It seems very unlikely anyone could help on this one, but if you got something go for it. I mostly just felt like sharing something trippy. 1985 GMC G30 in case there's an expert on them hiding here. It hasn't been driven in several months, no rain in months, no signs of rodents. Last time anyone was in it was a couple weeks ago.

It's a good thing Carlos didn't know how to go through turns faster. I saw what he did to tires and I don't know how far past melted and blued they can go without disintegrating.

I've ridden both versions and I like having full control over a vehicle, and I wouldn't de-link a Bird.

I can clearly see that the Milwaukee has 1.8% more carbon in the mix and was heated 13.2 degrees higher in the heat treatment. Most importantly it has TORQUE LOCK so it's obviously worth the extra cost.

I thought maybe it was my imagination.

I hope that didn't sound dickish, just letting you know in case you're not aware.

Your communication here is quite difficult to follow most of the time.

I'm sure that'll save a lot on the labor charge.

I know of engines that have been damaged by using Prestone so I wouldn't take their word for it, but I think it should be fine in a bike.

https://www.amazon.com/ratcheting-flare-nut-wrench/s?k=ratcheting+flare+nut+wrench I googled "ratcheting line wrench".

There's plenty that are silicate free, google will give you a long list. There's a few coolants that don't play well with others so if you know what's in it just use that.

New plugs are optional, they don't go bad with age. Tank cleaning will depend on condition once you check it. The fuel pump might be fucked, perfectly fine, or in between. Same with brake components and injectors. FPR is almost guaranteed to be bad or go bad shortly after you get it running, replace it. I'd pull it off to flush out the fuel rail then install the new one.

That could be just a weak cap, but since it only did it those few times it could have actually been overheating. I always ask because I get so many people asking me to fix their overheating car just to find out that it's in the safe range, just higher than they like or higher than they normally see.