superhawk996

Same here, but the cops don't seem to care. The only time I was stopped for it was in LAX by the airport cops. After a day of beers wheeling it would suck to get stopped over something like that.

Scottsdale, of course. No, he was in the center divider running radar or laser and I was plucked from a group of cars all going 90ish on the I-10 heading in. The car behind me was tailgating so the cop pulled along side and peeled him off my bumper so he could pull me over. I asked why he picked me "I can only stop one of you." Oh, so it wasn't because I was the only car in the group with a California plate? No, I can only stop one. This was after he'd handed me the ticket, before that I was being nice and hoping for the best. I typically set the cruise just shy of 85 but on that occasion traffic dictated speeding up or dropping down to the right lane speed to not hold up the fast lane. It was the only of many trips that I was driving something with a front plate, but it could be coincidence. A couple days ago I realized that my 'new' pickup has a front plate, I've been trying to plan an AZ trip and might use it so I took that shit off. It looks better without it and opens more space for cooling air. I got my photo taken a few times, I did the right thing and tossed the letters in the recycle bin since they were unenforceable as long as you didn't respond (improper service). On one occasion I saw the trap in time to raise a one finger salute to it. I was a bit surprised that they don't even send a second letter, the California jury notice people send a few with scary threats before giving up.

Typically an ECU sends power or ground to the 'trigger' side of the relay, a low current electromagnet that pulls the contacts to send power to the pump. The power handling side of the relay will have battery on one leg and the pump on the other. I don't know if the fuse would be on the inlet to the relay or the outlet to the pump. I looked at the schematic and it doesn't show a fuse between the relay and pump, but also didn't see one on the feed side of the relay but I didn't study it hard enough to know for sure.

Go buy a new one and let a poor speeder have this one you rich fuckin Jew! 🙂 I speed most of the time and haven't been busted in a very long time, I sometimes wonder if I'm just lucky or what it is. My last one was in Arizona, I made the mistake of not taking the front plate off the rental car so I was profiled caught breaking the law.

I just re-read and you said snip it off, I glossed over that. I took a quick look in my manual and don't see a fuel pump fuse but I think they have one. If there is and it's on the inlet side of the relay then no problem. If the fuse is on the outlet that's probably where the problem is, and your auxiliary wire would be bypassing it. Simple test, if there is a fuse, pull it with your auxiliary wire on and see if the pump stops.

It sounds like you could safely do what you say, but I'd cut the factory brown wire off at both ends instead of doing tandem. A wire rarely goes bad without damage so if it's pinched/cut somewhere it's safer to have it be dead than have it be energized. Congratulations! I don't recall if you said so, but what did you pay for it?

😎

If it'll be easier to talk it through gimme a ring. (626)712-9257 Oscar.

I'm guessing that with both meter leads at the pump wires with the pump or other load connected you'll see little voltage. Alternating the leads with one at the connector and the other at the battery you should find which wire is the one with the problem. Once we know if it's the + or - that's weak we can find the culprit.

Voltage test at the pump connector under load as I've described.

It definitely just got better/easiera. Knowing that the ignition system works and that you get power at the pump pretty much eliminates the ECU as being the problem. Pump won't run due to a lack of power/high resistance somewhere.

I no longer have the '01 so I can't test your ECU. I doubt it's the ECU since you do get power to the pump connector, but the no-start with a jumper on the pump makes me wonder. Once you've tested for + and - at the connector with a load I think we'll have better information to move forward with.

He lied. NOBODY keeps a bike in their living room. 🙂 The second photo was probably during the connector fix. I don't think I took a photo of the connector. It's in the same area as the earlier bikes. IIRC there's a bit of a lump in the harness where the connector is. If the bike has been kept dry and you plan to continue that it might be ok to ignore the connector. Mine showed signs of being left outside a fair bit, enough to fade the frame paint. Lemme make sure I've got this right so far: Your pump works when you put jumper leads to it, the connector shows power when it's disconnected from the pump and you turn the key on, and the connector has a seemingly good ground connection. Either the connector isn't making good contact to the pump (less likely) or there's a resistance in the power or ground to the connector, more likely. I don't remember if the connector lets you put a meter into the back side to test for power while plugged into the pump. It might have a cap you can take off to get access. If it does let you, put both meter leads on it and cycle the key. If it shows reduced power then individually probe the + and - while putting the other meter lead to the appropriate battery post and that'll let you see if it's the + or - that's not getting to the pump so you know which one to chase. If the connector doesn't let you probe it disconnect it and connect it to a load. Jumpers to the pump, or connect it to a headlight bulb if you have one, or something that'll put a load on the circuit and allow you to put the meter to it under load. Maybe before doing all that: if there's another relay that's the same as the pump relay, swap it and see if that gets the pump to prime. A relay can work and have a shitty contact with high resistance. Before continuing on checking stuff, disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to see if any gas comes from it when you prime the pump, if so, leave it off for now. The regulator seems to not like sitting around and will often start leaking shortly after seeing use again which will flood that cylinder with gas, I think it goes to #3. Plan on replacing it, I think it's worth the peace of mind. I think mine was already leaking slightly when I got the bike and didn't take long to start having problems because of it. I've read of some hydrolocking the motor because of it.

For '01 Honda moved the connector up a little bit and maybe did a slightly better job of sealing it. For a very long time it was assumed that Honda's fix cured the problem, but all it did was prolong the inevitable. My '01 had the connector corrosion issue and others have reported it too. In my case it started out with the classic symptoms; occasional FI light flicker, engine sputter/occasional stalling, and quickly progressed to a point where I didn't trust riding it. Maybe it's what happened to yours and it got parked, maybe, just my guess. I think the pump ground is one of the several that are bundled with the test connector. If you find that the ground is why your pump won't run verify where it's ground is, it could be somewhere else. Either way, I suggest that you check the connector anyway. If you catch it before any corrosion starts it's an easy fix to keep it good. Left unchecked long enough corrosion can wick far up the wires.

What area do you live in? We have people all over the place that'll lend a hand.

The pump itself works and you have 12v+ at the connector so I'm guessing it has no ground. My guess is the wire loom test connector is the culprit. It's also possible that you're getting 12v+ to your meter with the pump disconnected, but there's a high resistance somewhere so that with the pump connected it doesn't get power. Test for 12+ at the connector with the pump connected. If you get power then it's the ground. You could run a jumper to the ground side to verify that the bike delivers power and the pump runs, then chase down the ground problem. I'm tired & lazy, but if you search 'test connector' or "wire loom fix" you should find more details.

That bike was more clunky than it should have been, my guess is that the clutch brake thing, whatever it's called, had worn out. I remember on your 2000 if the clutch was held more than a second or so the clutch would completely stop and sometimes wouldn't go into gear, like when the engine is off. My '97 was very clunky on Rotella, a little less on bike specific oil, and pretty decent on the current super special race oil. The shifts are amazingly smooth, like it just wants to be in the next gear.

Curious to see what that looks like.

Thermostat and housing both changed. Two fewer plates and a device to reduce/eliminate the clunk when shifting into gear from neutral, don't recall the official name of it.

Makes sense that they'd need it since they're so much more powerful than them weak ass fuel infected ones. What I seem to recall is that they're the same size but mounted a little differently. I'm guessing someone else will know for sure.

Very unlikely. Most of the heat issues with Birds is when stopped or moving slow and in those conditions there's little heat being put into the oil and the cooler is doing little or nothing since it doesn't have air flow. The oil temp will have minimal impact on coolant temp unless the cooling system is loaded to capacity which is very unlikely to happen, you'd have to be running really hard in very high ambient temp.

Ram air was added to the FI bikes to help compensate for them being slower.

I think the oil cooler is mounted differently on carb vs FI bikes, maybe because of the ram air being in the way.

I've played with front and rear sprockets a few times without replacing the chain, all used parts in seemingly good condition, and had no issues.

Pretty sure they just reach over the frame into an open space and aren't connected to ducts or air inlets. And the Professional hasn't spoken yet on why boats, carbed bikes, or cars intentionally designed with hot air intakes connected to the exhaust manifold managed to survive more than 5 minutes. I assume he's conjuring up some kinda super senseless babble that will be irrefutable proof.