superhawk996

I walk past the back door on my way to the shower and notice that the motorhome's parking lights are on....WTF? I flip the light switch on and off a few times to both the parking and headlight positions, still on with the switch off. The parking lights get a little brighter when switched on so it's obviously not a perfect connection to them. Not wanting to fuck with it I disconnect the engine battery and they're still on; double WTF. They're being powered by the house battery which should have no connection to them. I flip the switch on and off to the parking position a few times, now they don't get brighter when switched on, but still won't turn off. I flipped it to headlight and they turned off. Switched them on and off several times, no power just as it should be. Re-connect the engine battery and they're still off and working normally when turned on. All I can imagine is that there's a wire from the house battery circuit that came into contact with the light circuit somewhere and turning the headlights on overloaded that weak connection breaking the contact. I'll have to do some digging to see if I can find anything. It seems very unlikely anyone could help on this one, but if you got something go for it. I mostly just felt like sharing something trippy. 1985 GMC G30 in case there's an expert on them hiding here. It hasn't been driven in several months, no rain in months, no signs of rodents. Last time anyone was in it was a couple weeks ago.

It's a good thing Carlos didn't know how to go through turns faster. I saw what he did to tires and I don't know how far past melted and blued they can go without disintegrating.

I've ridden both versions and I like having full control over a vehicle, and I wouldn't de-link a Bird.

I can clearly see that the Milwaukee has 1.8% more carbon in the mix and was heated 13.2 degrees higher in the heat treatment. Most importantly it has TORQUE LOCK so it's obviously worth the extra cost.

I thought maybe it was my imagination.

I hope that didn't sound dickish, just letting you know in case you're not aware.

Your communication here is quite difficult to follow most of the time.

I'm sure that'll save a lot on the labor charge.

I know of engines that have been damaged by using Prestone so I wouldn't take their word for it, but I think it should be fine in a bike.

https://www.amazon.com/ratcheting-flare-nut-wrench/s?k=ratcheting+flare+nut+wrench I googled "ratcheting line wrench".

There's plenty that are silicate free, google will give you a long list. There's a few coolants that don't play well with others so if you know what's in it just use that.

New plugs are optional, they don't go bad with age. Tank cleaning will depend on condition once you check it. The fuel pump might be fucked, perfectly fine, or in between. Same with brake components and injectors. FPR is almost guaranteed to be bad or go bad shortly after you get it running, replace it. I'd pull it off to flush out the fuel rail then install the new one.

That could be just a weak cap, but since it only did it those few times it could have actually been overheating. I always ask because I get so many people asking me to fix their overheating car just to find out that it's in the safe range, just higher than they like or higher than they normally see.

Oh....I see my mistake, I was unclear. It's sad because they only go up to XXL.

😂 I saw a chart that estimates what your glove size should be based on shoe size (I'm size 12 shoes), it's pretty far off for me. So then I looked at another chart that uses the same to determine your expected condom size, sad start to the day.

So it's upside down and connected backwards, perfect!

Is it charging? I'd use Honda coolant just to feel good, but many use Prestone and haven't had any issues so I would't be opposed to suggesting it. Water Wetter seems to be fairly proven to help heat transfer so it might help, depends on what caused the overheats, and whether it was truly overheating or just outside your comfort range.

Unlikely to happen.

Anything over 13 means it's charging some, but it should reach somewhere around 14 if it's charging well. I don't know the specs for that bike, but the generally accepted range is 13.8-14.2, quite often it'll run a bit higher.

Start it and check voltage. If it's not charging, then you have to start searching for why.

Roll, bump, push start; whatever you wanna call it. I did it with my SuperHawk with a dead battery on flat ground, I can't imagine any 4 banger being harder than that. If you were closer I'd take the $1000 challenge for sure.

What makes those bikes any different? I've roll started lots of EFI cars and bikes.

I had that thought to and let it go since it was already home, but yes, good for him to know in case it happens again. It'll work with EFI also, but depending on the battery's condition it might take more effort.

It's very different and extremely unlikely to pop the low battery because the car battery would be delivering just over 12v and unable to pass a really high current. Chargers push much higher voltage allowing for a higher current flow. With the car running then the chances of a high current flow greatly increase.

It would take a special amount of dedication to being stupid to pull that off and it would only damage the bike, not the battery. Connected backwards is my guess, but there's a few possible ways to pop the battery. And before you start arguing: to get them in series one of the bike's cables would have to be off of battery and connected to one jumper clamp, the other jumper clamp connected to the empty battery terminal, and in the right polarity. The battery voltage wouldn't double, only the voltage delivered to the bike's system would double.