superhawk996

You would think, and I hope for him. He may have to hold out some, but his seems the superior bike compared to many listed. For some reason the closed listings for nakeds are killing the normal 1098 which seems weird. I was looking up the 999 as I miss mine and they're fetching a pretty penny considering they were getting some negative press and the 1098 was the new better replacement. On CL the 999 and 1098 are about the same price.

Didn't know it was a flat fee, other stuff I've been selling gets hit at 10% plus BS fees. But the 1098 isn't selling as well as I thought it would.

What they're selling for on ebay and the amount of fees they charge I think you'll loose a lot. I've been reading and looking at the pics since you listed it, and drooling. I wish my damn boat would sell and I'd probably buy this thing! When I had my 999 my only real complaint was the intense heat that would burn my legs on a hot day. What gripes or low points would you say the 1098 has?....and do you want a boat? :-)

As for changing the lines I am going to have to take them all off the ABS pump so I can get to the inner lines because there is no way to get a wrench in there and have room to turn it. It hits either the other lines, frame , or the cab floor. Unless someone has a trick they can share. It would be really appreciated. You may be able to get in there with a crow's foot line wrench and an extension and/or swivel.

One trick to help with post brake line replacement bleeding is to lock the brake pedal partially depressed, I usually use a bar or stick between the pedal and the seat; this will keep the master cylinder and any lines not removed full of fluid. I do this when I replace calipers and wheel cylinders too. After repairs you can usually just release the pedal and it'll gravity bleed. Depending on the vehicle and which parts are replaced it can be slow. I do the same on bikes with a wire tie around the grip for front and usually a wire tie can be used for the rear as well. Whether car or bike, if you're disconnecting the line from the master only depress the master a little bit so that when you're done you have a bit of stroke left to pump some fluid into the line with the first pump to assure it doesn't suck air into the master on the first release. If you're replacing the lines to the ABS module start with the incoming lines, bleed them before installing them to the module, then do the master cylinder trick, then the lines leaving the module. This should keep the module from getting air. For some vehicles the ABS has to be manually cycled (possibly with some special tool) to get a complete bleed. As for line rotting from the inside; that would mean you have a high amount of water in the fluid and it should have been flushed. Brake tubing commonly fails at sharp bends or at the flare because it gets weakened by the bending process. Almost all brake tubes are welded seam type and fail at the seam. When making custom lines I try to keep the seam on the inside of tight bends so it's not stretching the seam (no idea if it really matters) and all flares need to be of the same type and angle as the component, generally a standard double flare at 45 degrees.

Nothing. The pdal went right to the floor. I had to use the E-brake to stop. The system is separated front/rear so you should have had 100% of front brakes, but the pedal would be much lower. Usually what happens is that the pedal drops and the person assumes the brakes are fully gone and panic, seen it more than once. If you're sure you went to the floor and didn't have brakes you have a problem that needs to be addressed.

I think the zinc & phosphorous is gone due to EPA, poisons catalysts. Diesel oil used to be the cheap way to get Z&P way back when it got removed from standard gas automotive oils. The zinc's main advantage is on metal to metal contact like cam followers, but may have also played a role in the clutch. Being that modern bikes have catalytic converters I'm guessing the zinc is gone or at least highly reduced in standard use bike oils too, dunno for sure. The only oil I know for sure that's got it and is somewhat easy to find is Valvoline racing oil in the 'not street legal' version. If it doesn't state not street legal or it has a modern rating it doesn't have the Z&P levels of old oils. There are a few others like Brad Penn oil that have it too. There are several additives with zinc, but the effectiveness of it mixed with modern oil has mixed reviews. The modern oils have different shit that's supposed to do what Z&P did, but it's been shown to not have the same effect. Like most products, if the bottle doesn't have a skull & crossbones warning, it doesn't work for shit.

It's somewhere in here I think http://www.hoc.org.uk/gallery/press/1999/1999_CBR1100XX_Super_Blackbird.PDF I played with it some more today and I can get clean shifts without the clutch cold, but not hot so it's definitely something that's changing in the bike. I'll be off playing in the desert for about a week on other stupid fast stuff, but when I come back I'm doing an oil change to see what happens. BTW-thanks to all you guys who've chimed in to try & help me with this!

Yea it's an old post, but no indication it was sold so ya never know.

No update??

Should I worry? Its better than the banged up wheel I have now, but if its still sketchy then why bother, i'll just get a refund and buy one of the other wheels available? The seller is very accommodating, not a con (though i guess he is a wheeler-dealer ) and is going to make an even trade for the wheel I bought last month which doesn't fit. I should have looked more closely at the picture, I was thinking there might be a difference in the spoke style but it would still fit, but its not even close, wrong number of rotor bolts, number of pads, thinner spokes, geez! btw, any idea what kind of bike its for? Thanks for your, uh, opinion... I've never checked runout on a bike wheel, car wheels commonly have more than 1/32. The one you bought says Honda on it and CBR1100 in the description (clearly not right), and sv650 in his fitment guide. This guy needs to get his shit together. I'd probably not give him any of my money unless I really had no better choice. Is he the only guy with one for sale? Seems kinda high for a used wheel unless it's in really good shape.

The brake is on the later, not earlier models. I have no idea what the wear rate is, but ridden right it'd probably last forever. Coasting in gear with the clutch in I think would put a lot of wear on it, otherwise it's only going to slide briefly during shifts. I think it only engages at full or close to full stroke, so a partial clutch engagement probably doesn't bring it into play.

Try Rock auto online, they have great prices and may have OEM stuff as well as others

I've been told, but don't know, there were two Moog lines; good stuff and China crap. All the Moog parts I've bought had a quality look and fit. OE might be better, but it depends. In many cases OE are sealed and Moog replacements are greaseable, whether that's better is somewhat a matter of opinion, but I prefer greaseable and trust Moog quality. Even cheapos if kept lubed will last a long time.

"Transmission friction damper" It's a hard rubber friction device on the transmission mainshaft that slows/stops the shaft when the clutch is pulled to eliminate the clunk when shifting from neutral into gear. If you hold the clutch a hair too long it'll stop the shaft and if things aren't aligned it won't go into gear, kinda like clicking the lever with the engine off will often result in no gear engagement. I'm not sure the exact way it engages the friction damper, but if you let off a little on the lever it lets go and the clutch output/trans input will start to spin again. It was just designed to eliminate the clunk and make the bike that much more cool. I call it a clutch brake cuz I used to work on big trucks and they have a small friction disc to do the same thing and it's actually called a clutch brake. If you ever see a semi about to take off and it clunks and the cab jumps a hair it's because the driver didn't properly engage the brake before putting it in gear. Picture the same thing that happens on a bike except the moving parts might weigh 50lbs. instead of a few ounces.

I The later XX I think has a clutch brake that actually slows/stops the input shaft when the clutch lever is fully pulled, that'd be nice. Yea but it only matters if shifting into first from standing still. Try clutch-less shifting, maybe your technique needs fine retunning. Having said that I`ve used that particular oil in g/f`s bike. Shifting did suck and I drained it next day. Actually the brake could help as it'd load the clutch a bit and help it break free during the transition, especially 1st to 2nd. I have a high degree of confidence in my technique, but I also know that some equipment requires a different technique to do different things and it's part of why I asked. I've played with it enough now to be fairly certain it's impossible to cleanly shift it so the oil change is next. My previous bikes did well on the 15-40, but none of them had a 9friggin plate clutch, that's a lot of stuff to unstick and slow down. You don`t need to "unstick" clutch to execute clean shift while the bike is moving is, of course. Going from N into 1st- yes, and the clutch brake could help here. Also on bike like XX were the 1-2 ratio split is large ( around 1.4 ) this particular shift is difficult to execute without using clutch. You can get very clean shifts without using clutch, there are even oem quick shifters kits on some bikes now and on all piggy back ECUs like power commander or bazzas is possible to install one. On bazzas you can adjust kill time vs gear. Clutch plays no role in this scenarios that`s why I don`t think it plays the role in your problem with shifting. Do you use full stroke of clutch lever when shifting gears? Do you close the throttle or just gently roll it when up-shifting ? How is the slack on the drive chain ? I fully stroke the clutch and generally fully close (or close to it) the throttle briefly. I tried adjusting the clutch lever full out (I always run them full in) and it seemed to help a hair on occasion, but not a definite help. Down shifting I can get a perfect synch. so part of the shifting problem could be whatever I'm doing; either allowing too much or too little deceleration time. Now that I think of it, I've ridden '99 and '00 birds and didn't have this issue. My other bikes I've never had a shifting problem except for one 20+ years ago. Chain is perfect, hub damper feels perfect.

Almost certain it's not the line expanding, it would have to have an odd defect. If the shift problem started right after an oil change that could be it. It could be that your clutch brake is worn out, assuming you have a later model with one. I think it was '99 or '00 when they changed the clutch design.

I The later XX I think has a clutch brake that actually slows/stops the input shaft when the clutch lever is fully pulled, that'd be nice. Yea but it only matters if shifting into first from standing still. Try clutch-less shifting, maybe your technique needs fine retunning. Having said that I`ve used that particular oil in g/f`s bike. Shifting did suck and I drained it next day. Actually the brake could help as it'd load the clutch a bit and help it break free during the transition, especially 1st to 2nd. I have a high degree of confidence in my technique, but I also know that some equipment requires a different technique to do different things and it's part of why I asked. I've played with it enough now to be fairly certain it's impossible to cleanly shift it so the oil change is next. My previous bikes did well on the 15-40, but none of them had a 9friggin plate clutch, that's a lot of stuff to unstick and slow down.

IF your ad gets flagged it'll be because of that last line, until then, keep it. I understand trying to be clear on no haggling, but it may be just a hair overboard. I buy and sell a lot on CL and have had to learn what people like and dislike, and still can't please them all. I make it a point to not discuss price on anything before they've come to see it, it generally sets the stage for a second haggle. I also disguise my phone number so telemarketers don't pick it up and put in a 'no texting' clause and stick to it. I've found that texters are the most likely to try to make ridiculous offers and even seemingly legit buyers on text don't follow through. I think your price is fair, tho I've not shopped them, and if I had any use for a gas sipper car I'd be interested.

I understand the mechanics involved and that some bikes tend to be clunkier than others so I was just wondering if it was an norm for this bike. I've had a few that were just impossible to make smooth because of design (my FZ600 stands out), but most bikes I've had weren't hard to get a smooth shift from. What I have is what I'd call stiction; the clutch doesn't drag at all, but won't really release until there's some load on it. Once it 'breaks free' then it's fine, but it has to do this every time it's disengaged. If I hold the clutch and give it a couple quick revs it loads it just enough that it mostly lets go, holding it at idle it doesn't no matter how long I wait. I assume the extra drag in the gears/bearings on cold oil is slowing it down so I'm going to try better oil in a higher grade and see. The later XX I think has a clutch brake that actually slows/stops the input shaft when the clutch lever is fully pulled, that'd be nice.

The cush drive feels good and tight, but good thought. I used to run the automotive 15-50 in my other bikes and would have again if I'd had easy access to it. With cars going lower and lower in viscosity recommendations the higher weight stuff is getting more scarce. My walmart stopped carrying it :-( so I grabbed my second choice. There wasn't one bottle of anything over 10-40 (except diesel) and it was only the walmart brand of high mileage stuff. It's funny that in the manual under general information, lubrication, maintenance, etc. it repeatedly states to use 10-40 as does the sticker on the bike. 10-40 is the most commonly available motorcycle oil and damn near every bike manufacturer has the same recommendation. Then in the manual under maintenance there's a chart for oil viscosities/temperatures and it shows from 10-30 to 20-50 as acceptable weights. The 10-30 is only good to about 90 degrees, but all the others are good down to freezing or lower....I'd have to be desperate to drive in that shit!

I was planning to go M1 15-50 and couldn't find it quickly so I went 15-40 just to get it done. It had a Honda filter so I'm guessing it was a motorcycle spec. oil, but it was a little darkened and the filter showed age so I wanted whatever in there out. I was planning a near future change to full syn. motorcycle spec. 20-50, but I may give the M1 a shot since it worked for you and it's cheaper than what I was eye-balling. I cringe every time it clunks envisioning little particles of metal being stripped away from the gears and floating around in the oil.

Even if the car was running, the voltage should be about the same as the bike's charging voltage. What do you think the car would have damaged if it was running when he jumped it? There's always the remote possibility of the two charging systems "fighting" each-other and blowing a rectifier or something, but that wouldn't kill your power feed. I'd suggest checking the battery then the fuses with a voltmeter and with the key off then on. Your battery charger may indicate that the battery is fully charged even if it's dead. It can show full voltage and not have enough power to sustain voltage under a load-reason I say to check with the key on. Fuses can crack and not be easily visibly blown and the contacts can corrode and not transfer power-again why I say to check with the load of the key on.

For the first few minutes riding it shifts buttery smooth. As it warms up the shifting gets progressively clunkier. It mostly does it 1st to 2nd, but also into 3rd and a little into 4th, seems to be smooth in 5&6, but I just may not be noticing it. Going from neutral to gear, whether 1st or 2nd, it's also smooth cold and quite a clunk hot. The clutch doesn't drag hot or cold; I can put it in gear on the center stand and the tire doesn't spin, other than an initial spin when I first clunk into gear. It did this on the oil that was in it (unknown type and age) and seems to be about the same with it's new Rotella 15-40. I read somewhere that the clutches were redesigned at some point, but don't know what the reason was or if I should or could replace this one with a later style.

I bought the ceramic coated headers from G2. Once they get here I'll have to convince myself to stop riding long enough to get them on.