superhawk996

I bought a '97 then an '01. Both had spend time outside and on their sides, both had 50k plus miles, neither had issues other than some fading and broken tool straps.

Since the O2 signal is ignored under heavy throttle I don't see the point in deleting it. It should keep the mixture at an ideal level from idle to medium load which will maximize mileage and minimize carbon. Unless you know that it helps it's foolish to delete it. If you still have the cats you'll want to remove them before removing the O2s or they'll probably get killed and then become a restriction as they carbon up.

High test also leads to more buildup so....

Agreed. My octane statement was in reference to a stock Bird motor.

RON is Research Octane Number which is one of the measurement systems, the other is motor octane. When you look at the sticker on a pump you'll see that the octane is (R+M)/2 which is an average of the research octane and motor octane to give a total knock index (TKI) number and 91RON is generally equivalent to 87 at the pump in the US. There's no reason to use any higher octane in a stock motor unless you like lower MPG, less power, and increased combustion by products. From memory a basic breakdown of the octane measurements is that research octane measures the resistance to detonation at low RPM use like airplane engines and motor octane is the resistance to detonation at high RPM. This is why aviation gas has high numbers while being cheaper than race gas and those who mistakingly use AV gas in place of race gas in a hot rod to save money wind up buying new engines.

Your '97 was tuned way rich or was fucked up and running hi-test is a mistake that robs power and mileage.

I don't know what WPC GR is, but if you swapped in a non O2 computer it would obviously not be looking for an O2 reading. The O2 is only adjusting things at light load, once on the gas hard they go off-line and fueling is handled based on programming and O2 signal is ignored....as far as I know from everything I've read about anything with an O2 that wasn't a wideband O2 which the bird never had.

I would be afraid to run without the retaining screw unless Honda decided it wasn't needed. My guess is someone lost it. I've never seen this style caliper mounting that didn't have the retaining screw, but I haven't worked on a lot of them. The heat pads shouldn't be any issue unless you're riding aggressively, race track style aggressive with lots of hard braking for an extended period.

It would be best to pop the pistons out and do a good cleaning. This may be beyond what you want/can do so a fluid change and pumping the pistons in & out might be a decent alternative. Also manually pump the linked brake master at the left fork to flush clean fluid through it and clean it out some. Make sure you don't let a piston pop out of the caliper while you're pumping if you're not prepared to bleed the system. External cleaning will do nothing for them and brake cleaner could harm the rubber and paint.

I thought evap was a federal thing. Pretty sure my non-Ca. '01 has evap.

I have an 01 if you wanna roll south to the LA area. I've read in a few places that 99 was supposed to be the fastest, possibly about tied with 01, and all the others a tad slower. Some have said that '97 was possibly the fastest. 99 and up have a different header giving more torque and less HP. I've read in many credible places that 01 was the beginning of O2 sensors and cats but mine doesn't have them, I believe it was included on Ca. bikes and those going to some other countries; mine's not a Ca. bike. Check the emissions sticker on the left side, it'll show meets US EPA or meets US and Ca requirements. You could swap ECUs and see if the power follows the brain or the bike. Being that you have O2 and had cats it's possible it was tuned mellower for stricter emissions. I've never read of a different mapping for the low gears on the XX. I don't see how it would since there's no gear position sensor tho it could do it off the speedo input. The bigger rear sprocket would make it a tad quicker. The slip-ons in theory would add HP at higher revs while loosing some at lower. I put a full Yoshi on mine and my impression was that it lost power below 4k, was about even to about 5k, and much stronger above 6k. As it comes onto the power it lifts the front quite well which I don't think it did before. The only bird I've run mine against is mikesail's, don't know what year his is. We did several side x side roll-ons from about 4k from memory and also swapped bikes. I had the stock exhaust at the time and I pulled way better from low RPM, not sure about the top end but I think his was stronger. He had a one tooth bigger front sprocket which will weaken acceleration and a full exhaust. When I looked at his header I could see why the low end was weak, the tubes looked quite oversized.

If that's in reference to my post about eBay; I meant the mufflers, I wasn't clear. I've never looked at bars so no clue.

The same stuff has been all over Ebay for quite some time, just cheap China stuff. I'd compare their prices then buy from the cheapest source.

Polymer80 lower kit + drill press + 1-2 hrs of your time=paperless lower on the cheap.

Holy shit, I've never seen an AR in wood, that is really cool.

Sooo, are you done lubing and polishing your rod yet?

Damn, and I thought I drank too much before logging on.

Core strength and posture I believe are my biggest issues, and my general spine issues associated with having pretty noticeable scoliosis.

It's gonna compromise the strength of both the peg and mount. Whether it breaks or not depends on how much extra strength was built into the design and how much one weighs. If I were to do this mod I would test them with my full body weight on each one individually, if it passes that it should be fine in normal use.

6', maybe a hair shy. It's never bothered my knees, I ran the Ducati at max raised also and wished for more. Low pegs kill my back, the higher the better for me. When I first got the bike it had a raised seat and Buel pegs and it was murder, stock stuff worked ok, the raised pegs are great. I let my friend ride it a few times and his knees were unhappy. I rode my friend's Nighthawk 750 and within minutes I could tell it wasn't gonna work for me. I lowered the pegs on a friend's SV650 and it was suddenly uncomfortable for me to ride, but at 6'4"ish and having some knee issues he was delighted. Oddly my enduro is perfectly fine for me.

I was anti-AR for a long time, mostly because the fan boys were obnoxious. I stumbled onto an old school classic 20" Colt and bought it. Then I went on to make an 80% 16" flat top. Then I stumbled onto another old Colt 20" that I traded to my best friend who was also anti-AR but liked the classic style as well. I like that they're easy to build however one wants. I haven't become a fan boy, but have started to appreciate the platform; mostly because I can make as many as I want without a paper trail.

Smart simple solution, and thanks for sharing it.

Same here, I wound up installing some Gille's and have them at max height. I assume you could do the same as in the photo but upwards.

The guy next to me today was shooting a braked Lapua, fucking asshole. He was actually a really nice guy, but FUCK.

I have no unregistered hammers, nothing here to see; it's So.Cal. for fuck's sake! I've only shot 40gr. CCI hollow points, but there are 35s too. The box says they do 1875FPS, my chrono says they only do about 1875ish out of my gun. I put it on paper today for the first time and only second time shooting it. 100yrds. with the stock irons and made 4 or 5 out of 10 on a 3" sticker; I was pretty pleased. Hit some steel about 4" wide at 200 which was amazing. I have the papers on the MAS here somewhere, but don't recall the specifics. I read that they can be ammo finicky favoring the lighter 7.62X51 and disliking .308. I loaded up 50 rnds. from min to max 7.62 book loads with some cheap bulk powder and bullets and also bought some .308 and it shot them all with no issue. Can't speak to accuracy as I was just shooting stuff we brought out to the desert, but it functioned and shot well. It was definitely hitting within minute of can/bottle/rock/cactus from up close to kinda far so it's confirmed to be dead on accurate! I cranked the sight up to 400 meters and shot some stuff way up on a hill and hit it too. Haven't been able to test the grenade launcher for accuracy, but at least it's all intact. The .338 is a 77 as you suspected, Mark2 stainless on a beautiful wood stock. I have a love/hate relationship with it. It's beautiful and bad ass, but punishing if loaded to full power. My GF shot it last weekend and scoped herself, got some blood. Today I scoped myself for the first time ever, just a tap on the nose to let me know I needed to get a better position; I knew I was in a bad position but figured it would be ok. I'm also trying out a Chinese scope that has short eye relief, the scope it came with is likely better suited and will probably go back on. I talked to an old timer today at the range, he uses lighter bullets in his and it hits more acceptably while still reaching out to 500+ pretty well. I've been shooting 200 and 250 gr. bullets loaded somewhat hot and it hurts. It's got about 70 rnds. through it now. I have no hunting plans and just wanted a scoped rifle to do some semi long range target shooting with and this fell into my lap so I grabbed it. It can be loaded down but I thought I wanted to swing the big sledge.