superhawk996

T6 is the 'go to' oil for lots of people, and not just for diesels. I've seen really good analysis from using it in the Jeep 4.0 as well as a few others. It's fairly cheap for the quality. Never tried it in a bike, but it shouldn't have any clutch issues. Edit: the Rotella I've used in bikes is the older 15-40 (I think it's T4) and not synthetic. Used it in: CB750, SuperHawk, Seca Turbo, XX, and several others. It's also been my go-to for every inboard boat engine, motorhome, and other vehicles. With the cars I've recently moved to Pensoil Platinum 0-40 because of some tests I saw on it combined with a write-up by a lubrication engineer.

Ride faster, make wind. But really, is yours noticeably weaker than it should be?

AFAIKBZITE the gold cap just denotes "extended performance" which means it's designed to run longer service intervals. I'd have no hesitation to run 15-50 silver if that's what you're finding. Another option is 15-40 diesel oils like Rotella. If you have an early Bird with the 9 plate clutch it might have a little bit of sticky clutch syndrome, but the later bikes with the smaller clutch pack seem to not care. Other than the '97 Bird, no other bike I've used 15-40 in seemed to have any problems. Car spec 10-40 should be fine as long as it doesn't have the "energy conserving" label which I don't think any do. Or just pay the premium for good motorcycle spec 10-40.

JB weld probably won't hold up to the heat, but no harm in trying. There's also some exhaust sealant stuff that's kinda like clay, it won't help much for bonding/strengthening the cracked area, but should seal it up.

5500 miles and only $3500 sounds great but: Chinese fairings, (they appear to be) mismatched wheels, missing splash shield, uneven mufflers. Polished frame and analog gauges. Maybe someone's customizing toy, or a crackhead/dude fixed up a wreck. "linked ABS" in the description makes me think the latter. Wonder what the story is.

It's off the market. He decided to hold off on selling it.

Down to one partial kit and a few of the "engine ear" things, the handheld piece with a microphone and DB meter used as a stethoscope to pinpoint noises. The partial kit as no headphones and only 3 of the clip on microphones. It'll work fine like that, I've never used them all at the same time. $30 shipped for the partial kit and $10 ea. for the engine ear.

Yea, the super low hours can be good or bad. Some will continue to have the services done, most will say "but I hardly used it" and skip all maintenance. Normal items aside, after 11 years with the drive at full tilt the bellows would be suspect. Not a huge deal breaker, but something to check before dunking it and possibly creating other problems. Note to I/O boat owners, it's best to lower your drive as much as possible when parked, and definitely if in a slip. I don't know why, but I see many boats in the marina with their drives up. Must be left-over mentality from when they were trailer boaters.

Nope.

Is that a front/back view of a coin, two coin sets, two separate coins?

No. A little Googling will show you that's not how it works.

Are you saying that active regen cycles don't put fuel into the oil or just saying that it's not common knowledge that it puts fuel into the oil?

I like my WhiteBird.

The one in the ad appears to have the stand stop, about where I recall my Yosh having it.

Mine had it.

To burn his house down?

I emailed him again for the dyno sheets, nothing.

The XX might be like the XJ, lost its appreciation to be slowly regained much later. The other factor is what people ask isn't what people are paying. Looking at closed listings on eBay there's a perfect looking '97 that got to just over $2k and a very nice low mile '03 that got $3800. Location is a big factor also.

That he's not just a liar but an idiot too? Yes.

I emailed the guy last night just for kicks. What do you mean by “30lb shot of nos”? Do you have dyno sheets on it or is the HP just speculation? At 6:55 am: Yes I hav a Dino sheet Sent from my iPhone I immediately responded and asked that he send me a copy of the dyno runs with & without NOS, no reply.

Vehicle nitrous has an added chemical that's supposed to induce a coughing/gagging effect so that you 'can't' inhale enough of it to get high. None of my bottles are handy, but pretty sure the added chemical is on the label. It's illegal to sell pure nitrous to someone without the proper papers. Apparently mine was lacking it or it just didn't work because a friend of a friend took a big ole hit of it and passed the fuck out. The shop I used to frequent for re-fills offered me the pure stuff once, I'm guessing he got it by mistake. Or maybe he was just testing me so see if I was using it/selling it to get high, maybe because I was in there so often and always happy.

If it's 30 HP that means the bike was making 170+ without the NOS, nope. And I hadn't paid attention to how close the bottle is to the exhaust, seems like a real bad idea. On the Cherokee forum there's a thread titled "people who think their XJ is gold" where people post up retardedly priced Cherokees, this one deserves a similar title.

My friend is Bird shopping, I'll let him know. What exhaust did it have and was it re-jetted for it?

IT IS PUSHING 200 HORSE POWER AT THE REAR WHEEL WITH A 30lb SHOT OF NOS WTF is a 30lb shot?!?