superhawk996

My understanding is that the stator is always putting out max power and the R/R turns any extra power/voltage into heat. A better R/R can live longer, but I don't see a way it can add life to the stator unless it creates an open circuit of the output rather than absorbing the excess power. I'd appreciate a link to something that describes how this series R/R decreases stator load. A generator or alternator is regulated differently, it gets signaled by the regulator to generate more or less power as needed.

This has crossed the fun tease line.

Edited.

I guess testing the battery should be in there, I just assumed 'we're past that' and there is an actual drain; gonna edit.

If the battery is low right after a ride, it's likely a charging system issue or bad battery. There are threads covering those pretty well, this isn't for you. Do check your connections and battery condition before assuming it's a charging system problem. If it takes hours or days to go dead then something is draining. Have the battery tested even if you think it's too new to be bad. I've pulled new batteries from the shelf that were bad. On occasion a battery will test good on an analyzer but actually be bad, pretty rare but it has happened to me. It would be wise to disconnect it, check its voltage, let it sit overnight, and recheck to be sure it's not self-draining. When checking for vehicle draining you need to set your meter & leads to amps, not milliamps. If the battery has been disconnected before starting the testing, connect it and start the engine then turn it off before continuing-you'll see why. Clip the red meter lead to a good clean chassis ground point and the black lead to the negative battery terminal before disconnecting the negative terminal. The reason is that some mystery drains can open once you disconnect the battery giving you a false 'no drain' reading. Tho it's somewhat rare, it does happen. Most vehicles have some normal drain, maybe around .1a powering a clock, computer memory, anti-theft, etc., but if you have a fault it'll likely be much higher and obvious. If your reading is high you can then start disconnecting stuff with the meter on so you'll know when you found the issue. If there's been any add-ons or wiring mods suspect them over factory stuff and start there. Then go to relays and fuses. If pulling a relay fixes it then it's likely just a stuck relay, but re-test after replacement to be sure. Full re-test means reconnect the battery, start the engine, shut it off, etc. as before. If you find that the drain is through a fuse then it's one of the things being powered by that fuse that has the problem. In many cases a fuse powers more than what's stated on the fuse box cover so check the manual if in doubt. Remember that there are small normal drains so don't be fooled by a fuse that drops the reading a tiny amount. The charging system can also cause a drain so if fuses and relays don't uncover the gremlin try disconnecting the stator, regulator, rectifier, alternator, generator depending on what you're working on. There are often unfused circuits and circuits powered by fusible links, circuit breakers, or fuses that aren't in the fuse box depending on the vehicle. If the meter is connected backwards the vehicle, meter, you, and anything else nearby will be vaporized leaving a small-ish black hole that lasts about a week. Or maybe the meter will just display a negative reading, it'll still be an accurate number but with - in front of it. I've had to find some intermittent drains which can be a real bitch. Aftermarket cruise control wired to a constant power instead of ignition power, that was a motherfucker to figure out as it only drained when the switch was left on. Some other fun ones that come to mind: glove box light, vanity mirror light, trunk light, under-hood light, stuff plugged into power ports, DVD player, on-board battery charger, alarm.

Many love chain wax, I prefer oils that I believe have a better chance of soaking into the rollers, presently using Motul Road. I like to oil after a ride with the chain still hot and let it cool and suck the oil in as it cools, that's my theory anyway. I put the bike on a stand, idling in 1st, and gently squeeze the button so it's lightly spraying. I aim closely on one side's o-rings, then the other, then coat the center area. Every 300 miles seems to do pretty well, I avoid riding in rain. Oiling cold then parking it might do better since the oil will stay thinner longer, hard to say. Last time I did the Duc I was trying to keep things clean so I oiled without running it so it wouldn't spatter, it was parked in the house and I didn't feel like taking it out side to lube. It seemed to do a fine job. I rolled the tire a lot to disperse the oil then wiped it down to minimize spatter when I went for a ride the next morning. I only put about 1000 miles on the Duc before selling it, mostly lots of short trips playing racer boy when possible, never had to adjust it. I probably oiled it 3-4 times while having it. I sold my SuperHawk with about 12k, factory chain had plenty left on it. It did some casual cruising, but lots of spirited play as well as quite a bit of dyno time.

I would guess you are over tightening and/or under oiling. Or maybe using crap ass chains. Are you trying to keep it stretched tight or book spec? How often do you lube and with what?

Definitely interested. Dragsvt@gmail.com.

The stock headers are stainless, carbed ones being a bit thinner than EFI. Those first few inches get the hottest so if they don't crack there they'll probably be fine being fully wrapped. I'd think it might be more stressful with the short wrap because there's the still super hot part of the pipe suddenly transitioning to unwrapped and cooler pipe.

While doing lots of work on a beater sometimes doesn't seem to make sense, replacing it with one with possible unknown issues makes less sense. You were gonna give it to the son in law, if he knows how to fix stuff I'd say do it.

Damn, two black beauties for sale at the same time. Never new they made a watch, pretty cool.

FTFY Do you know what was done to the mufflers and could you shoot a close-up of the end of one?

I find it very hard to believe that a valve would straighten itself. More likely that one or more lash adjusters were compressed and it just took a couple minutes to pump back up.

My gut said it was that but hoped it wasn't. If it didn't bend valves it's not a huge deal to fix. It's fairly easy to check them, if you're interested I'll give you a quick how-to.

42" would be a rifle case, 42cm is a pistol case.

You could buy a new servo assembly here http://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=422 and be plug & play repaired for $80.

Me too. I hate when people post $1, I generally skip right past those BS ads.

At MSRP it looks like a decent deal, at Amazon price it's quite a bargain. What are the internal dimensions? Pretty stupid that they don't list that and reading reviews and customer answers revealed several different dimensions.

oy vey.

Hopefully not a broken timing belt.

That's pretty damn cool.

Every model tire will have it's own tread depth. If you want to know what yours were see the manufacturer's website. The original depth doesn't matter anyway, the law and/or your discretion will determine the minimum safe depth regardless what they started out with. Legal minimum is 1mm for a bike, 2/32 for a car-from memory. 4 years on a tire that hasn't been abused isn't bad. They do go to shit with age but generally speaking it's not considered an issue at all 'till 5years. Replacement is generally recommended at 7 with 10 being the reccomended max. As a tire ages it'll have less traction and eventually it'll blow out or have tread separation issues when the components degrade enough. Tires that have been run hard or low on air will degrade faster.

Direct to the battery would be the most accurate, but you'd need a switch to keep it from draining the battery. The best automatic spot that comes to mind would be one of the relays or fuses that's only powered with the engine on. I've read of people tapping into the headlight wire because it's close. Your reading would be lower than actual battery voltage, but not a huge deal as long as you establish what your normal voltage is....and know it'll turn off with the high beam and that it'll change if you put in a different power bulb or if the the bulb burns out.

When I got my 999 it was leaking, cleaned them and it stopped. I didn't have film but had just bought a TV, the yellow energy star sticker worked great.

It can't. You can't get air in the system without opening the system which you didn't do. First you stated that it was spongy after changing pads, later stated that it was already spongy. You're all over the place with all your diagnostics/symptoms on this bike.