superhawk996

Not much, I'll give you beer money for them.

Since it tested fine last year it's good to go. I can assure you that it'll be completely reliable until it's not. You should avoid testing the battery and charging system if at all possible.

I think the rum had taken over, in my brain switching sides made them the same dirrection. I've noticed arrows on many of them. The carb bikes have a different offset than EFI, but I think all the early are black and late are gold so that should identify them. I bent one on my SuperHawk doing a tire too, I was chapped but It straightened itself. If yours isn't bad you could try riding it and see if it comes back.

If they're directional you need to post up which side you need, but I don't think they are.

This effects you how?

That white crud was probably aluminum oxidation and it won't conduct heat or electricity well at all. Rick's stuff seems to be very hit & miss.

The newer regulator is more robust to handle the higher output stator so if you put in the newer stator it's a match, if you use an older lower output stator the regulator won't have to work as hard and should live longer. Using a high power stator with a regulator designed for low power would probably shorten its life. Edit: Forgot to say that putting a higher output stator on a 97 will put more load on the regulator since the bike uses less power to run. Here's something I've been pondering. Wouldn't installing resistors in the stator output wires lower the load on both the stator and regulator? For those who don't need it's full output potential it would seem like a cheap way of extending the life of both.

Just took a glance, they're on eBay and probably elsewhere.

It could just be build-up of junk keeping it from sealing. I've repaired several leaking masters and slaves just by cleaning, might be worth a try. If you can't find a seal through dealers see if it has a number on it and google it. In many cases I've found seals for stuff after being told they weren't available. Unless Honda made a seal for it they're using an existing seal that's used for other stuff and probably available elsewhere. In some cases polishing out scratches & pits from the cylinder as needed.

If none of the visible parts are wet then it's likely the slave leaking. All masters accumulate dark gunk. I believe it's wear material off the piston seals and the cylinder. Old fluid can leave gunk as well. Water accumulation, even if the water is in suspension with the fluid and not visible water, can cause gunk/discoloration as well. If you have a way of sucking the gunk out do so before flushing. Using Q-tips or rags or anything that can leave lint is a bad idea, but if you're careful to not leave any stuff behind q-tips can get it really clean. When dealing with brake fluid around any painted parts, plastic, or rubber cover the fuck out of everything. Every time I think 'there's no way any will spill' it does and always on the worst parts to get it on. Use rags or towels to create a thick large covered area around the master and bundle it tightly to the master to protect stuff. If fluid spills on anything you don't want damaged immediately wash it off, try not to get any water into the master but if it does just suck it out or flush it through after you're done washing. It won't kill anything to have water in there for a little while but there's no spare time when fluid is on paint or other sensitive parts.

Sounds like the clutch is done. The only other thing I can think of is if the master piston isn't retracting all the way for some reason but that would probably give you inconsistent operation. Handle position has no effect on operation unless it's an aftermarket with a problem that allows it to keep the piston from retracting. A sticky rod could cause slip, but I think it would be inconsistent. Both possible problems can be eliminated by taking the slave cylinder off. Check that you can push the piston in, if so master is fine. Check that the rod isn't sticking by moving it.

The only hydraulic circuit on a bike I've seen "make air" from sitting is the rear brake on SV 650s, seen it happen on two of them. Other models may do this as well. I believe the heating and cooling cycles every day manages to suck air past the piston seal in the caliper. The clutch and front brake having their masters on the handle bar and the slaves a couple feet lower keeps fluid pressure against the slave seals. YEAY GRAVITY!

Having the bike sit shouldn't introduce air, something else is going on.

Just read about your melted RR wires, this may have been the cause of the repeated failures.

W T F ?!?!?!?!? Your tool strap appears to be in perfect condition. I think you're the first here to do the series reg., nice to have some evidence of it fitting well.

Main fuse connections checked as well as battery terminals and the crimps on all those wires checked?

If it's not hitting the stator, which should leave obvious marks, the only thing I can imagine would be if the magnets are more powerful than they're supposed to be causing it to put out more power. No idea if that's at all possible. I recall you having a lot of problems with your bike recently, maybe you got a lemon.

I would check over the wiring thoroughly, specifically all the main power and ground connections.

I bought a hail damaged car and fixed all the dents with a pencil torch. There were a few that didn't come out perfect, but hard to see if you weren't looking for them. I just swirled the flame around each dent watching it magically disappear. Spent a couple hours on the dents, detailed, and sold the same day for triple the money. I like the ball, pretty cool. Of course it's rare to have a body panel with something that substantial behind it, but a useful option to keep in mind.

I have 10 100 ct. boxes; fresh, new, and sealed. Interlock 7mm .284" 139gr. BTSP. #2825. $20/box shipped to the 48. Possible trade for other caliber or ?

Betting on salvage title.

Good thing it was only 18ga. wire. I see shit like that too often, sometimes with bad consequences. I've piggy-backed on fuses, but always on the load side of the fuse.

Oddball lighting can hurt more than help, and can also get you a ticket. Those turnsignals are confusing as fuck.

It goes nowhere. It's like turning off a light switch, the electricity is still present at the input side, but not reaching the light. If this 'switch' were cycled rapidly the voltage to the bike's battery could be kept within spec. The stator is putting out somewhere around 60v., don't recall the specs. If this were switched on/off at a rapid controlled pace the battery, and the rest of the bike's system, would stay at a proper voltage. Since I used the light switch analogy it lead my brain to light dimmers. The old way to dim a light was to use a resistor to 'soak up' the extra power kinda like a normal regulator does in a bike's charging system. Modern dimmers use a fast cycle on-off so they dim the light without burning up extra electricity.

Thanks for the links. So the series regulator does go open circuit to discard excess current rather than just turning it into heat like the standard ones do. This takes the load off the stator letting it run cooler, it may also reduce engine load some. For those who don't know how it works, here's the basics. The stator is always making maximum power. This would make the voltage too high unless there was enough load (stuff being powered or low battery being charged) to keep the voltage down. Since there's almost always too much being generated the standard or mosfet regulators become the load which heats the regulator, it's basically creating a controlled short circuit to keep the voltage down where it needs to be. The series regulator takes that incoming extra power from the stator and disconnects it from the system not allowing that power to get to anything.