superhawk996

Apparently the photograph stars are in alignment for me today so I was able to post them. I dig the see-through clutch cover, and the centrifugal lock up clutch is pretty damn cool looking.

But it has fresh transmission fluid, something I bet none'yall have done to yours.

104HP to the ground, what else matters? It's got a fuck ton of shit done to it, will detail if anyone's really interested. He spent about $15k on it. For me it's just a flip deal. I bought it from the person who had it built. He first bought a basic 390-somethingCC stroker motor, ran the fuck out of it then decided he wanted more. Now it's a totally custom 490CC with a bunch more mods to support it. He did the incremental break-in runs over a few weekends, had it dyno tuned, ran it 3 times, then had kids, then it sat. He was pretty meticulous with maintenance so it should be in good shape. I've known him about 4 years and he always talked about taking it back out to play, with his wife always saying THE FUCK YOU WILL! Apparently he's worth more alive than dead. Lesson here, never insure yourself for more than you can make. Anyway, Uncle Sam was about to beat him like a red headed step child and auction off their kids so I gave him some cash in exchange for a funkin race quad. Sand racing isn't my deal so it's not something I'd use. My only possible use for it would be to buy an RZ350 and do a motor swap, but it needs to run on race gas to make full power safely so not a usable toy on a budget. On a quick local search this level Banshee goes in the $8-10K neighborhood, $6k for a member.

I don't need one right now, but will gladly take them if nobody else jumps in with need.

Clear the coolant out of the cylinder, put the oil back in, and fire it up. Then do a compression test and see how much repair it really needs.

Looks like a much better deal than the dropped one. Only thing a little suspect is that the photos were taken at different times, but not necessarily indicative of anything bad. First impression is it's been decently cared for and has nice basic farkles.

Not liking the skull thing, the tail is higher than I like, the rest of it is pretty cool.

The fairing decal looks wrong. The blingy look initially made me think it might be a dumbasse's bike that's possibly been abused.....BUT: stock levers, pegs, brake lines, reflectors, rear fender, etc. It's parked in a clean room and was relatively centered on the black pads before being pulled onto the stand. It has potential for being a gem.

Is it still running the factory fill or has it been serviced? 🤣

The burnt one in the photo is advertised as Lithium Ion. They also say it's the smallest lightest battery for the power it has, guessing it has a small power advantage to LiFePo4 at the expense of being more fragile.

I bought the Battery Tender brand from Amazon, #BTL14A240C. $120 on 7/14/14. Oddly punching that number in produced nothing so I did a quick search, https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-Lithium-Phosphate-Replaces/dp/B00XWYGAUK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525579618&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+tender+lifepo4

That's lithium ion, the one I have from BatteryTender is lithium iron something....Lifepo4 I think is the abbreviation.

I learned that agreed value and stated value sound similar but are totally different. FYI for those who don't know. $3500 sounds about right for clean ones unless they have lots of bling.

Recommendations; the only one I've used is the Battery Tender brand from Amazon. Compare it to whatever else is out there. Charger, I just used a normal charger when I killed mine. There may be special chargers for them, but since my bike doesn't have a special stator or R/R I just sent it some normal amps. And forgot about it so I'm pretty sure it overcharged. If I were planning to let the bike sit I'd just disconnect it if it has any parasitic loads. Maintenance charging/maintainer shouldn't be needed for seasonal parking. Unless your off season is a prison sentence.

Smaller (tho some use a space wasting case to fill your bike's hole), WAY lighter (thought they sent me an empty box), no liquid so it's beyond spill proof, more cranking amps, virtually 0 self-discharge, no hazmat for shipping. Edit: Faster recharge rate. I'm sure more will come to mind. When I installed mine the starter spun the motor so fast it sounded almost like idle speed. I'm sure that's exaggerated, but it's about how it sounded. The compression pulses were nearly gone, just a nearly seamless spin.

I can't say for sure because I ride so sporadically, but they seem to help with the felt heat. The fact that it has left my mind is an indication, but I haven't ridden with them in hot weather and slow traffic in a long time. I checked the header temp at idle and I believe it was around 400F stock and 300F coated. I'm pretty sure I posted the numbers shortly after testing so the real numbers should be here somewhere.

They're worth exactly as much as someone's willing to pay. As for that Dexcool recommendation that stuff is really acidic so I'd be leery of it. Original tires, so they obviously need changing ASAP. Original battery.....that means he hasn't ridden it in 10 years or jump starts it, neither is a good thing. We know these things will make big miles so the only real advantage to low miles is the feel good feeling or if you want it to last another 200k.

I coulda sworn I'd seen this labeled as sold. Dammit, I woulda bought it instead of the Excursion I just got.

Yes, temperature helps a lot when pressing shit. Chill the inside part, heat the outside part. But have yourself and the tools ready, sucks to get halfway pressed and have the parts lock up because the temperatures equalized and things got tight when you expected an easy slip fit.

The blue Purolator isn't new, if it's the same one I'm thinking of. The blue in a hexagonal box is ONE, not PureONE and it's been around a couple years. If it's not the ONE then it's something new I don't know about. If they've stopped making the PureONE I also don't know about that. What did the threads bottom out on? I don't recall seeing any filter with anything inside it smaller than the diameter of the threads.

Torque by feel works if you have acquired the feel, otherwise it usually leads to shit being over tightened, and once in a while left loose. If you had the feel your pan would still be intact because you would have ignored the number when your feel said "stop, something's not right". I torque lots of stuff by feel because I wrench a lot and feel that I have the feel, but when someone wants specs and will use a torque wrench I applaud them for not going at it willy-nilly and fucking something up. Average torque on a rear axle nut is around 70 and I've watched guys who know this crank them down to double that and more. Much like most people will over tighten lug nuts to ludicrous torque. If you're using a normal length 1/2" drive ratchet to tighten your axle and you stand on it you've already gone overboard, when you jump on it it's now at ludicrous torque.

My most often used driver for races & seals are sockets.

Now I think I remember the carbie vs. FI difference; I think one of them has space for a slightly oversized Pure One, but I think the smaller one fits both...been a while. Everything I've read says they're the same, but I think there are some sizes not available as Motorcraft. Motorcraft are cheapest at Walmart, and probably cheaper than Pure One anywhere but the Ford dealer. Walmart only carries the ones that sell best so the selection is somewhat limited. You can do a cross reference and find that there are Motorcraft for many applications, I'm running one on the Jeep Liberty and have used them on bikes and lots of cars.

I didn't even know we had a shop manual here.

As for filters, Purolator Pure One/AKA Motorcraft are high quality/decent price. I think there's one that fits the FI bird but not the carbie, or maybe vise-versa. The threads & seal surface are the same for both, but header clearance I think precludes it on one of them.