superhawk996

First off, disengaged is the same as clutch lever pulled. Engaged is lever out. It may seem like nit-picking, but using the wrong words can cause issues when getting help. It's fairly common to have some 'marbles' with the clutch engaged (lever out) at idle, but if everything is perfect you wouldn't have any really obvious noise. I suggest draining the seafoam or running it out and see if it's still rough once you have just clean gas in the tank. Seafoam is more like diesel fuel than gasoline, don't judge the motor's running characteristics while it's running on seafoam or any other snake oil. 3 months shouldn't clog carbs. Edit: Don't run any cleaning additives that have no OEM approval. Technon and Yamaha RIngFree, which seem to be the same thing but with different concentrations, are the only cleaning additives I use. Both are OE approved by different engine manufacturers and I've seen the evidence to support their use. No engine manufacturer supports seafoam.

If you want them clean I'd suggest putting the shop vac on the exhaust pipe rather than trying to suck it up at at then head. If you have duals plug one and stick the vac to the other. Using the vac at the head you'll most likely have stuff flying around and some will fall into the head. With the vac on the exhaust poke a soft wire into those grungy ports to clear them.

Casting would probably be more work than just forming and welding. Could use steel, stainless, or aluminum, generally done with aluminum. You could also use fiberglass or carbon fiber. I suggested possibly reinforcing the stock airbox and reiterate that, I think it would be a cheap easy solution and you're using a design that's known to flow well. Incorporating a charge air cooler in place of the filter would be cool.

The wiring might be there for a factory CC, check on an XJ forum; I use cherokeeforum.com. If so it should be easier than installing an aftermarket. You could get new parts from a dealer or go to eBay, junkyard, CL, forums, etc. for the parts. Mine has an exact matching wheel, didn't know they came with compact spares. Mine's pretty well loaded, Laredo, so maybe it was an upgrade option. The lug pattern is 5 on 4 1/2", same as older fords and many others so there's lots of options, just need to be sure the offset is the same or at least really close. You can get an exact matching wheel at a junkyard, CL, etc., assuming it's got stock wheels, allowing for 5 tire rotations which has some benefits.

3 1/2" 12ga., that should stop any uninvited turkeys coming through a window. Cool gun and tempting, but kinda silly for a non-hunter so I'll force myself away. Guessing it's illegal here, hard to have anything really cool that isn't.

Ahhhh, I think you wanna search for vacuum diaphragms or maybe slide diaphragms, not air cut-offs. Maybe cut-off is what Honda calls them but I've always heard vacuum diaphragm. They don't really cut the air off, they lift the slide according to airflow which also raises the needle allowing more fuel flow to match the airflow. In older carbs your throttle hand lifted the slide/needle assembly directly. With these your hand opens the butterfly and the resulting vacuum change/airflow lifts the slide/needle assembly. It's known as a constant velocity (CV) carburetor and they're more efficient than the older mechanical slide style.

Yea, not much changed between '98 and '99, it's even like it's the dividing line that we all use when referring to early/late model. Just a few little changes like the entire fuel system, exhaust system, cooling system, braking system, front wheel and axle, side stand light, tail light, brake and clutch levers, battery and charging system, ignition switch, frame, etc. I can't see why the fuck the new guy would even ponder that the dash boards between the two model years with the most changes ever made to the bird might present a compatibility issue, he must just be dumb I guess. Derek: generally speaking whatever Auntie says think the opposite. In all fairness whenever he asks for advice and we give it to him he does the opposite. In this case he was actually correct despite his own words, they will interchange. I assume you side stand will illuminate the "FI" light.

You covered my curiosity on the side stand. What's the air cutoff valves and what do they do?

I seem to recall my 97 having one and it was in the place my FI light is on my '01. Or is my memory even shittier than I admit to?

This seems impossible, but if there's that much of a friction difference why on earth would you use that other oil in anything?

Not possible with a stock bird no matter what gearing, but you could gear down and maybe see 200 on the dash and then boast about it to all the other squids. Many people don't understand how much wind resistance increases at those speeds, altho it seems to me that your 275HP would do more than 200. It'll depend on your size and position of course. The only time I took a bird to ludicrous speed I found that stretching my ass back rather than trying to ball up behind the windscreen worked better. I'm relatively long & slender so YMPHMV. The guy who owned the bike didn't hit quite as good of a speed as I did, from memory he was a little bit bigger. With his backpack on it was way worse. I hit an indicated 193 so maybe 175ish? Too lazy to do the math. I believe he did an indicated 175ish with backpack and 185ish without. On my run it seemed to be running out of steam around 185 and when I stretched out it started climbing again. I believe it woulda done a hair more but I was running out of road. This is all from old memory while on a speed high so the numbers might be a little off. I was riding a 1982 Seca Turbo (100ish MPH bike-I'm guessing since the speedo stopped at 85) when he tossed me the keys to his bird and said if I didn't hit at least 180 I was a pussy and he'd be pissed.

From memory about all you'll get here is me vs. hank with two distinctly different theories so you may wanna do some googling. I haven't boosted a bird but if I did I'd try to use something as closely resembling the stock airbox as possible. Me personally I'd look into reinforcing the stock box to handle pressure, possibly coating it with fiberglass or carbon fiber would do the trick. I would probably replace the stock air filter with something to act as a diffuser, a dry K&N might be a good option or just a large fine mesh screen. A stock filter would work but might pose some restriction. If you have pictures of your plenum I'll give you my thoughts for you to research against.

I'm sure there are other oils out there that'll fulfill the need for less $ or would be better choices, but if you're happy with Honda oil there's nothing wrong with using it.....other than you're stupid and should use my oil of choice. Flame on!

Air drag on most bikes is pretty high for their size, rider position makes a big difference on most bikes. The engine and gearing is generally set up for performance, most bike engines just aren't very fuel efficient. Engine design makes a huge impact on fuel economy regardless its HP potential, all engines are built with a bunch of compromises, some come together better than others. A car can roll down the highway at under 2kRPM, while the bike is at 4k+, more losses in the engine and trans. Around town the bike has the edge being light, cruising the highway aerodynamics matter and weight means nearly nothing. I'll bet Dave's hot rod Vette gets better highway mileage than many normal cars, high gears and low air drag. Then there's the driver variable. Even tho I drive more aggressively than anyone I know I generally get better mileage than they do in the same cars under most circumstances. Open highway cruising some might win since I drive faster, but my maintaining a constant speed helps compensate over most drivers. The best mileage my Explorer ever got was towing my jet boat to Az. An extra 2k+ pounds and 4 more tires on the ground, but I drove slower which makes a big difference with an unaerodynamic vehicle. The boat being low and narrow presented little drag, the engine sticking up in the back was probably the biggest air drag and that aint much. My stock little cherokee with a 160hp 6 cylinder gets less highway MPG than my friend's bigger and heavier lifted grand cherokee with 35" mud tires and a 300hp V-8. Why?!? The body on his is more aerodynamic and I'm sure his engine is more efficient, especially since mine needs about 1/2 throttle to propel the brick through the air at 80+mph. Mine might do better around town being that it's much lighter, but engine efficiency is still on his side. I think the worst I've ever had was '80 F-250 with a 351M, that engine had no power and got shit mileage. Ford packed the shittiest combination of things into that motor; compression ratio, bore/stoke ratio, rod/stroke ratio, cylinder head design, cam timing/profile... Lots of it was great stuff for high RPM use, but the cam profile & compression didn't let it do anything above 4kRPM so it was just a shitty motor. My bigger heavier lifted 300+HP F-350 with 37" mudders seems to use less gas; I haven't calculated it, the numbers might make me stop driving it.

That this post is by you. You have an odometer & fuel gauge on the dash and you already know your bike's range....so WTfuckingF?!?

I'll take everything you have in M or L.

A good degreaser (Castrol SuperClean is my favorite, but Simple Green will do) and hot water. If you have a small round brush that'll fit it would be a bonus. Blow out with compressed air if you have it, or non-residue plastics safe electronics cleaner, or just hang to dry. Carb cleaner and brake cleaner would do a great job on the metal parts but may damage the hoses.

Good point! I think he's only doing the lines, but yes flushing them is a very good idea. A guy I used to work with went through two sets of bearings before realizing the cooler was full of junk from the initial engine failure.

I get a lag sometimes when I hit the 'submit reply' button, it gets stuck on 'saving'. Sometimes just a brief delay and other times it appears it'll never change. Usually hitting refresh will fix it, a couple times my content disappeared. Hasn't happened lately so I'll report back if it does it again.

There are times I use all 5; primer pocket uniformer, pp cleaner, de-crimper, chamfer, and de-burr. This last round of 700 .223 I just used de-burr and chamfer removing the crimps with the chamfer tool. I did it all at the dining table with TV or youtube entertainment and some .org breaks. I also did my trimming here using a Trim-It with tape wrapped around it to contain the crap, that thing can fling shit pretty far. I'll keep thinking about the Trio and very cool that you're donating it.

Tap the bolt heads with a small hammer, but don't smash them up, impact helps break them loose. Tapping it while putting pressure on it with a wrench may do the trick. If you have a small impact gun give it a try. 1/4" or 3/8" drive preferably but a 1/2" gun turned down to avoid breaking the bolts will do.

I checked and yes, there are adapters that let you fit a hose with threaded AN fittings rather than the pipe/hose originally used. I got them from Cecome and I'm pretty sure he got them from CBRbear if you wanna ask him where they came from. I have a pair and don't think I'll need them, one for each end which will allow one aftermarket hose to be fitted from engine to cooler if both ends are the same, I didn't compare to know for sure. It's an aluminum flange that bolts to the engine in place of the original with a threaded nipple sticking out the other end to connect a hose to, they look to be good quality. If there's enough good pipe left you could cut it and clamp on a high pressure hose. The pipe would probably need a flare formed to positively retain the hose otherwise it could slip off under pressure. A hydraulic supply shop that makes hose assemblies might be able to do it for you.

He's new, he's learning; kudos for the lesson.

Aerokroil, or just Kroil. The aero is the aerosol version. Is the pipe cracked, leaking at the pipe to hose junction, or leaking right where the pipe connects to the engine? I think there are adapters that let you attach a braided hose to the engine eliminating the factory pipe/hose set up, might cost less.

I debated that one mostly to keep things Horna Red. I ended up buying a different one, Lyman I think, that has 5 stations on top. I like that it keeps all the junk contained, and that it has the option of 5 tools, but wonder if the side tooling might be more ergonomic. Do you have experience with others?