superhawk996

Problem is that even a good chain jumps around at idle. Unless you've done it with a good chain you'd have no idea what bad looks like.

Fuckin mechanics...but they're kinda right. You can activate them with a battery and pair of wires with alligator clips. It's just an electric valve kinda like a lawn sprinkler. You can rig a can of carb cleaner to a hose to the injector then open the injector with electricity to let the fluid flow. You can use a 12v battery but don't hold it powered, just short spurts. A 9v battery would be safer so you pretty much can't overheat the coils. Realistically it would probably take some effort to fry one on a bench, but better safe than sorry. So you could soak them in a can or bottle, activate & spray, soak,....as needed.

They can and I have. Unless the CBR injectors have something about them that would be damaged by soaking, that I don't know.

Carb cleaner, put them in a jar or can and spray a bunch in there and cap it. Agitate it from time to time. And if you can pull the screens out it would be a good idea so you can back-flush them, if not just spray them really well. If you rig the injectors up to back flush with the carb spray it might help too. If the dead ones click they're probably cleanable and good, if they don't they might be done. The ethanol probably isn't the cause of them getting stuck, the mistake was draining the fuel but not completely emptying the rails and injectors. Had the system remained full or completely emptied and dry they'd probably be fine. When a fuel system is emptied some soft parts harden so check the hoses, gaskets, etc. and keep an eye out for leaks for a while after you get it running again. If nothing leaks somewhat soon you're probably fine, some early leaks will self-heal after a bit of soak time.

Is the cylinder dead under power or only at idle? If only at idle check to make sure the fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking fuel into the vacuum line. Put a screwdriver tip on the injector and the handle to your ear, you should be able to hear it clicking. Not a guarantee it's injecting, but a quick way to know it's dead if it's silent. Compression loss could be valves, not just piston. I got a motor with burnt valves, they were left too tight by a mechanic. It seems very odd that disconnecting an injector from a dead cylinder shut the motor off. Maybe the computer is wired to do that, odd.

Did he loose a bet?

Smart thinking. I always know that I'm smart enough and good enough to keep it from happening, but it seems that brake fluid is a paint magnet and the harder one tries to keep them apart the higher the likelihood they'll meet. Target fixation perhaps. When I plan it out and cover everything and have a hose ready, no spills. If I take the cover screws off without covering up it's almost a guarantee that the shit will explosively spray everywhere.

I don't know what the manual states. I'd start at the closest nipple and work down the line following my previous post.

Some type of suction device makes it pretty quick & easy, if you don't have one you can let gravity do the work for you. Suck the old fluid out of the master or let it drain as low as possible on the first nipple. Refill and drain 'till fresh fluid is coming out, then move on to the next nipple in the line while regularly checking that the master doesn't go empty. Gravity is slower than pumping but easier and less likely to make a mess. If fluid gets on paint don't wipe, immediately rinse with water; having a hose nearby and ready is a good idea. Plastic and some other stuff can be hurt too so rinse those if they get any fluid. Dot 5 isn't hygroscopic, sounds great 'till water gets in and settles to the lowest point. Since the fluid won't absorb it the only way to get it out is to disassemble the calipers or whatever it gets into. With dot 3 & 4 water stays in suspension and flushing removes it. That said, I've never flushed any of my vehicles unless the fluid looks shitty and have never had a problem. Every once in a while it comes to mind and I think "I should do this" then I go on to something else. Too many vehicles, not enough time/fucks to give. Some day I might pick up a gallon and dedicate a day to doing the fleet.

Damn, I'd forgotten the stocker does that. Our freeways are pretty shitty overall and the cement ones have nasty bumps where the slabs meet, that constant rhythmic bumping sucks. Beats on the spine, shakes your head/helmet... There are some spots and speeds where it still does it, but not as bad. Over long bumps and dips if feels like it's tighter, moves less and doesn't bottom, on the little sharp bumps it feels softer. I'm guessing it has more low speed dampening and less high speed, something that good shocks often achieve. It looks like it has used the bump stop, but not in a while as it has a good dust layer. I'm only about 175#, carry minimal luggage, and no passengers. I still have the stock shock and get curios to compare, but haven't been curious enough to hassle with swapping. Edit: Next time you're in SoCal come give it a feel.

I'd shoot some degreaser in before the water and let it soak for a bit, any left over oil in there is gonna hold on to the sand and be hard to remove. If it's possible to get a bottle brush in there I'd do it. Spraying and flushing won't get it all out unless there's a lot of flow or pressure put though it and it's likely that you can't achieve that. If the oil pump is that minimal it would seem like something to modify while it's apart. Maybe the issue is with people adding a filter before the pump and starving it.-? They push better than they pull. It could also be an issue with filters draining when parked and oil starving that way. You can add a filter in the return line, it's done on a lot of old bikes. Map is the name coming to mind. Filtered before or after it goes through the engine is better than not at all.

I've ridden stock vs. Penske back to back and the Penske is pretty bitchen. Not enough for my cheap ass to pony up the Penske $, but I'm sure glad my current XX has one.

Washing it out with solvent should get it out, but I'd install a filter if possible. If 'slinger filtration' means a centrifuge they can be very effective, but I'd still want a filter.

You should add WTB to the title so that someone with one to sell would be more likely to chime in. If yours just has bad vinyl you can get it recovered, I think I paid around $40 at an auto upholstery shop last time. There are also places that'll do custom comfort stuff like gel inserts and different foam.

Dig those old 2 strokes you have Muddy. Didn't even know they made a RZ250 'till now. I second Redxx, post some pics of them old smokers.

The right plastic and gas don't concern me. Putting that plastic fitting where a lot of heat will be is a concern. Cars have many plastic fuel fittings that last forever, but none are put in the engine compartment as far as I can recall. Putting one on an old school bike's petcock out in the wind would probably be ok. The bird's tank is shielded from engine heat but not enough for me to fully trust plastic, I'd go metal.

The air jets rarely clog, but they lead to the fuel jets so spraying into the air jets can clear the fuel jets.

Carb clean into the airbox won't help the carbs and can hurt the motor. Carb clean directly into the air jets can sometimes clear the jets.

I'll take them for my Moto Guzzi so call it sold unless someone else needs them for a Wing as they were made for.

And change the oil to get the gas out if any did make it in.

I can't match TOXXIC's offer, especially with the daughter offer, that's quite generous. Odd that the idle circuit works, unless it only runs on the choke then that's pretty normal. A simple attempt would be to drain the bowls and fill them with spray carb clean and let sit. You should be able to get easy access to the drain screws at the bottom of the bowls, or just let it idle 'till it runs out. Most likely you'll have to remove the bowls & jets and clean them out. If the jets are super plugged and the pressure of the carb clean won't blow them out take a piece of electrical wire, pull a strand and use that to poke out the jets. The strand has to be small enough to fit in the jet hole. Sometimes you'll have to hold a little pressure on the wire and spin the jet to 'drill' through the gunk. The copper wire is soft enough to not hurt the jets. JIC screwdrivers are your friend, phillips screwdrivers on those JIC screws are your enemy. Sometimes it'll work, but if the screws are stuck don't press your luck with a phillips, once the heads are damaged it just gets worse. If there's space I often use small vise-grips to break them loose then screwdriver, the grip & torque of pliers makes it easy to break them loose. No need to replace the hoses unless they're messed up, sitting doesn't generally hurt them.

There's a filter in the tank. You could try giving the bowls a few taps with something, might cure the stuck float. I usually only see stuck floats when something sits a long time and a few taps usually fixes them, your case is different so it may not work, but it's an easy thing to try.

It's a return, #9. As far as whether it'll be a problem, all depends on how much oil needs to flow through it. Looks like you'd have to drop the pan to replace it.

The picture shows the rear center driven by the pedal and the outers driven by the third master, backwards of what's described.

Good thought on the bugs, but the only place I can think that they'd effect the engine would be the air box/intake hole and that would be most noticeable under power when the air demand is highest.