superhawk996

The connection was probably loose or dirty causing it to get hot. You could just cut that wire and its mate on the other end and put terminals on them to reconnect outside the factory connector. If you can hunt down the right terminals you could fix it to remain within the connector. If that connector plugs straight into the instrument cluster and not another connector then you might have to get more creative.

Hahahahaha. I bought an SV650s with a rusty and seized pump. Tore into it and freed it up and it worked great. Fixed a few other things, prettied it up, rode it for a while, then flipped it for 3 or 4X what I paid. The pump on my JX650LJ, Seca turbo, was seized when I got it and a replacement was $700. Cut the can open, fixed it, and resealed it. A little bit of a battle, but not a $700 battle.

You sure? Mine don't look like LEDs, but I guess a good LED set up like Honda would do won't be obvious. Some LED swaps I've seen look kinda crappy.

I've blown through many fuel filters to asses restriction; what happened?

Red. Easy to see and doesn't fuck with your vision, it's what most boat instruments use. You can make it pretty bright and still won't fuck with your vision.

Maybe he'll subsidize you. I don't recall the resistances, but maybe you can graft in a universal replacement. Or maybe Zero wants to keep his new one and sell you a working used one at a decent price. I assume it can't be returned, or at the least would be subject to shipping and a restocking fee.

The sender shouldn't go bad from sitting, unless it rusted out. You might be able to clean it up and make it work again, or buy Zero's new one and be set for life.

Why would the sender, as simple as it is in design, go bad? Why would a wire connection, as much more simple as it is in design, go bad? The same could be asked about thousands of things that just wear out or fail, sometimes with no visible signs or warnings of impending doom. Just sticking to the bird I can think of a few quick examples of things that frequently fail without notice and without visible signs of having failed, CCT, stator, R/R....the three most common failures on a bird.

When powered off some gauges stay put, some drop, some just kinda float. My recollection is that my analog XX dropped. The gauge is a simple thing, as are the sender and wires, but obviously there's a flaw in one of those simple things. It's a good idea to check out the connector that Fur pointed out, especially because it can save the harness from major damage, but my bet is with the gauge after the testing you did.

It's a temp switch with a long skinny prong you push through the fins then put a clip on the back so the body of it stays pressed to the rad core to sense temp. There's adjustable and non-adjustable versions. The adjustable takes up a lot of space so I'd use the non-adjustable for a bike and adjust it by moving it to hotter/colder parts of the rad 'till it's to my liking. There's also surface mount switches made for generic uses that can be glued or otherwise attached to a surface. I've seen one that actually slips into a hose connection so that the sensor is in the coolant and a thin wire is clamped down between the hose and fitting. I assume some kind of sealant would have to be used around the wire but didn't investigate it. Another option might be to T in a sensor along with the factory sensor for the gauge. There should be a way to rig something that works off the resistance output of the factory sensor but I don't know electronics well enough to know how to do it. Carlos probably does. That would be pretty cool as it could be adjusted to one's liking.

I think it's a carbie.

Like you didn't do with the sender. The manual confirms my belief, if the sender and wiring is good it's the gauge. What it's doing is odd, but it's something that a wire issue just couldn't do as far as I know.....BZITE. Someone here may have a gauge laying around to sell ya cheap.

Howd I guess it wouldn't be the sender? So your open/closed circuit test told you that the gauge & wiring is good but senders don't sweep from open to closed circuit, they sweep from one amount of resistance to another. A few are closed at one end or the other, none are ever open at either end. You were basically sending overpowered signals to the gauge so you got max and min readings even tho there's a fault. You can verify buy testing the resistance of your senders and see what their range is which will pretty much verify that the old one is good if it matches the new one. I doubt it could be wiring, a resistance or power issue should make it read too high or too low all the time. I assume it's a bad gauge unless the sender arm was sticking and unable to make its full swing when in the tank, pretty unlikely if its smooth feeling and makes a full stroke out of the tank without major resistance...unless you have added anti-slosh stuff or something to the tank.

I assume that's an EFI rad you bought. I'd first verify that it'll mount up. I know they mount differently between EFI & carb but don't know if there's anything different to the radiator mounting points. As far as running it full time it'll put more wear on the motor. You could get a surface mount switch and wire that in to keep it automatic.

Compressed air. They can pop pretty violently so put a wood block or something in there so they don't fly out. You can use a manual pump or one of those cigarette lighter plug ins and it'll probably be more controlled, but I'd still use a block to be on the safe side.

If anyone is interested in a set of gold Gilles Tooling pegs I'd probably trade for these black ones. I kinda like the bling, but think the bike would look better without them standing out.

Cecome's rear brake was mushy, I bled it several times alternating between the foot pedal and pumping the master on the fork. I never saw air come out, hard to watch when solo bleeding back & forth, it cured the problem.

If you install an exhaust hood you won't need to cover the cabinets, but if you are going to stainless would be better than regular sheet metal. Or maybe copper for the cool look if the color works better. The sticky stuff that LED strips come with varies in quality, 3M VHB will hold. VHB should also work for the sheet metal eliminating the hardware issues.

Radio Shack used to be a place to buy electronic parts, now if it's not a cell phone or crappy R/C toy they don't have a clue. The last 5 times I've been there for something they don't have a clue and say they probably don't have it. After searching the bins I find the part or the empty spot where it should be. I go maybe once a year at most and it seems they don't ever restock that stuff, eventually those disorganized bins will be empty. Last time I went for a couple magnets and had their part numbers, the people still couldn't tell me if they had them but after a search I found them.

I bought this at the same I bought a used bullet feeder and won't need it. It's still sealed in the shrink-wrapped box. $100 plus actual shipping cost. http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-AP-30-Cal-Conversion-Kit I bought it from the reloading shop I go to, it was a "trade in" item so no returns. $100 OTD was the cash price on it. I'm kinda shocked the guy doesn't put stuff like this on the shelf as a new item at full price, but it's how he runs things and I like it. If nobody wants it I'll probably take it to Bass Pro, pretty sure I can do a no receipt return for store credit at whatever their price is.

Ah, like an ignition coil discharge I'm guessing.

I don't understand the need for a diode. The computer sends power or ground to the relay coil to activate it, nothing from the fan circuit can come back to the computer.

And roids of the wrong kind.

He was shooting production reloads from a local shop that also makes new ammo.

All oils have detergents, tho some do better than others. I've opened several bike engines that were clean inside, none of them running amsoil. Amsoil appears to be very good stuff, but the price is pretty crazy.