superhawk996

Not an oil expert, but this is what I think I know: Lawnmower oil, and I think the stuff originally used in VW, are non-detergent. Because there's no oil filter a non-detergent oil lets junk fall to the bottom of the case and stay there 'safely' away from recirculating. It's possible that gas might cause this accumulated stuff to go into suspension and be pumped through the engine and do rapid damage. Some lawn care motors have plastic parts that the gas may cause more damage to than metal parts. Then of course there's the simple direct action of thinning the oil resulting in lower viscosity and diluted lubrication ability, and most of these oils aren't all that great to start with. My 4 stroke lawn engines get whatever 15-40 diesel oil I have on hand and they get changed more often than most. My rule on them is to change it when it shows obvious color which always happens before it hits the add mark. The day I decide it's oil change time I do the chore at hand to get it hot then change it. A couple tips to simplify lawnmower oil care: I check the level before moving it that way I don't need to wipe the stick and recheck. The book way to drain the oil is a plug underneath which is a pain in the ass. My dipstick is in the left rear corner of the engine. I remove the stick, put a drain pan to the left of the mower and tilt it over on it's side to drain. The mower needs to be high enough above the pan to allow a far tilt and full drain so I either do it on the edge of the driveway with the pan lower or put a block of wood under the left side of the mower before tilting it. If you have an oil sucker that's even easier. As far as changing the FPR to a higher pressure one that'll richen the air/fuel mixture so consider whether you want that first.

Not in my experience. Gas isn't a good lubricant but I've seen many engines with gas, water, coolant, diesel diluted oil continue on without issues. I wouldn't do it on purpose, but I've never seen catastrophic damage from it without running long term that way.

I can't imagine the FPR would leak then stop leaking so that's unlikely. If an injector were stuck open and dripping you'd probably notice a missfire on startup from the flooded cylinder. Could be coming through the vapor recovery system.

I was ready to jump at it, but the misaligned 6 on the odo was a deal breaker. She is fuckin purdy tho.

Any reason you went with one from each? I assume if you ordered both from the same place you'd get a discount.

I strongly recommend getting rid of that big junction block and using crimp terminals, waterproof ones ideally. If there's any wires that are twisted together, looks like there might be, I'd put them into crimp terminals as well. Soldered wires are a bad idea unless they're well supported, movement/vibration can cause them to break. I assume one could keep the Honda connector salvaged from the old switch, permanently attach the Suzuki wires to it, then add crimp terminals for any extra wires. Since the DRL wire becomes an extra it could be used for the headlight flash so it sounds like the factory connector would have enough wires to do the job. I like those switching LEDs, never heard of them. BTW, there's no need to use clear lenses, all that does is allow the color change. I'm not sure which color would be more likely to add visibility/grab attention to the bike. If the clear is really bright it could cause blinding to others on the road like running with the high beam on. Tho many like to do this to make them be more visible, this makes it harder to judge your speed & distance so it can me more dangerous. Amber lenses should cut the brightness down some, whether good or bad.

Did you use that to make use of the extra switches? Did you wire in the headlight flash and hazards?

I doubt it requires magic, but might as well use every advantage possible. Good idea!

Unbolt them and verify there's nothing between the rotors and wheel causing it. If all's good there try for a refund or exchange. If you can't return them check the buttons to make sure they're not jammed up. I accidentally warped a rotor once doing a tire change. I found where the warp was and was able to pull on it by hand & the pulse went away. Get the front in the air and spin the tire to figure out which is warped where. You can hold something against the fork like a screwdriver with the tip at or near the rotor and see where the high/low areas are while it spins.

Or fully polish it and clear coat, or finish with NeverDull, it might hold up for quite some time between touch ups. Or have it anodized. Or re-paint. I'd polish it and finish with neverdull and see how it holds up, if it turns shitty and you don't wanna maintain it you could paint it or clear it.

Sometimes the cop goes after the prize, sometimes the easy hanging fruit gets bitten.

Every time someone says they have to adjust their chain every 1-2 hundred miles it's because they're doing something wrong. Sometimes it's over tightening and expecting it to remain at near 0 deflection, or not getting the hardware tightened right so the axle slips. Once in a while it's junk parts or total lack of lubing along with constant hot-rodding. I don't know where your 1/8" of slack is, but wherever it is it shouldn't be there. Loosen axle nut, turn adjuster on left 'till the chain is almost as tight as it's supposed to be, turn right adjuster to be even with left and verify chain slack. If you go too far tight loosen the adjusters just a little and bang the back of the tire to push everything foreword against the adjusters again and continue checking/adjusting. Once it's good tighten the axle nut then turn the adjusters to put some tension on them. Roll the tire while checking chain slack, if there's tight/loose spots (almost always some amount of imperfection) you wanna make sure the tight spots aren't overly tight. If the unevenness is extreme there's stuff to check out. I usually use the little marks to set the alignment, but there are better ways if you care to get it perfect. I've never had a chain that needed adjusting every 200 miles even with lots of throttle/wheelie/speed abuse. I don't know that not putting tension on the adjusters would allow the axle to slip and I assume it won't since the manual doesn't state it needs it done. I've always loaded them after tightening the axle because there's no harm in doing so and they could help prevent movement.

Sold. I should be out soon, probably with Matt, to get Jeep parts. Ship if you wanna, or sit on them a couple weeks.

Their phone number or paint number? I assume nobody would have their own numbers for standard colors that already have a code, but they might give you the recipe that the code calls for. Pretty much useless information and there's a chance they'll have to tweak it to the eye afterward anyway.

A paint shop can get you a few ounces like I got up to gallons. They can even make spray cans if you don't have a sprayer. They might even know an experienced guy that can do it for you at a reasonable cost.

Try going to a paint shop with the bike or a clean part off of it and have it matched. I tried getting some for my white '99 Ford, should be simple right? Even the dealer doesn't sell the right white, but it's listed as being the Z1 white on my truck's ID sticker. I had a shop do it using the number and it was much better than Ford and Duplicolor, but not quite there. I then took the truck over and he got it as close as my eyes can tell. I bought a small brush top jar and it was under half the price of the brush top jar from the dealer which looked exactly like the Duplicolor jar with a different label. I returned the Ford paint.

Knowing how many $ would be helpful.

Apparently I had smoked crack the day I looked at it and thought the bike's price was 1500, 4000 is still decent if one wants the spendy exhaust. I'm guessing the kickstand is just out of view.

The exhaust alone is worth a good part of the price. Unless it's a scam or has some hidden shit it's probably already sold. If it were local I'd scour up the money for it.

That's cuz you had them bad ass brakes and Zero was on the crappy stockers and couldn't slow down. When I had my 999 I should have looked at what it would take to swap those in cuz they were pretty awesome, never thunk of it, but I'm not unsatisfied with the Bird brakes whether linked or not.

Maybe broke like me, well most probably aren't that broke. I could maybe give him $1000 for it, and might have to ask that he take payments. He's pretty cool with pricing the stuff he sells, but not that extreme. I think he's probably making up for other things missing in his life, but no harm no foul...actually better because others get to benefit. Or I'm completely wrong. There's probably a name for his condition, but most people do similar to some level. Get something new, farkle it, maybe rub & caress it a few times, then move along. I do it on the cheap; buy something old & broken or otherwise shitty, farkle it (aka make it work and usually not beautify it at all) then usually sell it once it's done. Usually with intent to make some money on it, but there's been a few times I thought it would become a keeper and after grueling hours of work find that it's just not gonna be what I want or that it's just not worth keeping for $ reasons. If I had Dave money I'd need a warehouse or 20 to store all my toys, he's smart enough to move through them. Speaking of which; did I miss where he sold the Vette or does he still have it.

Those people annoy me, I just ignore them. I've learned through my sales and friends' sales that most are just gonna lowball as far as possible, many of them looking for something they can re-sell. First time I got an unseen offer on something it wasn't too terribly low and I really wanted the car gone ASAP so I accepted. He shows up and starts nit-picking, all defects I had clearly stated in the ad, and trying to lower the price more. I told him no and he went on about how it's not gonna sell for more, blabla bla. Just then a no-show from earlier arrives apologizing that his car broke and he had to get a ride from a friend. He says if this guy isn't buying it I'll take it right now at asking price. I let him keep $100 so he could tow his other car home. Turns out Mr. low ball was so confident he'd get me to sell he told his ride to go home....and didn't realize his phone and wallet were in the car. When I get a retarded offer I sometimes play with them, I accept it then I string them along 'till it sells or they give up.

And trying to go to school and work 2.5 jobs.....and possible military service and trying to pay off loans.....and maybe it has an Akrapovic exhaust or stock depending on which era of photo is current, if any. And the price and flexibility, but "knowing what it's worth". Crack head.

Hmmm, I must be missing something. My body isn't tiny, thin, but not tiny. If that's an appendage reference; it' YUGE!

Most tortillas are flat so I dunno.