superhawk996

I can't tell if he's really that distorted or is just trolling. It appears to be that he's honestly incapable of reading something without reading in his own version of the other person's words, but dunno.

Yup.

Again, you won't admit where you're wrong even when clearly pointed out, but you'll continue to make claims and ask stupid questions. Once you get those answers you'll not acknowledge them or any question placed on you so there's no point in me continuing to answer your questions.

Forgot about your question. I've done a few. I have the 'normal' skills needed to pull it off and the skills to make alterations to the norm when it makes sense. I own and know how to use: inside and outside micrometers & calipers up to 12", plasti-gauge, dial indicators, torque wrenches from inch/ounce up, piston ring cutters for setting end gaps, block & head boring tools for doing big bores, ect.; more than the average person has in his garage. I've surfaced heads and re-sized rods at home. I've done porting and piston modifying. I've done crank, cylinder, valve, and journal surfacing. I took an "unsalvageable" engine and made it run with only about $20 worth of new parts, and have repaired many "unrepareable" parts. None of that or the fact that my engines always work will prove shit in your eyes, but asked and answered.

Show me where I said that RPM and/or load doesn't generate more heat. Show me where I said that it didn't go soft on power then start knocking. Show me where I tried to educate you on how to shift a 13 speed. You can't do any of those things because I never did. You take any opposing side's words and twist them up into what you think they are, I see if frequently, there's something very wrong with you. No matter how clearly it's laid out for you it's like you're covering your eyes and screaming "that's not what you wrote"! Even when the opposition positively proves they're right you won't admit it even when it's specifically pointed out to you, as was seen again on this topic. Now we have 3 very specific statements that I'm challenging you on, let's see how you'll avoid admitting I'm right about them.

You obviously have a reading comprehension problem, or are just a 'tard...probably both. The load makes no difference in how fast the heat spread to the web. The RPM makes very little difference how quickly the heat spread, but if you wanna nit pick, ok. It took longer to spread at 14,000 than if it had been doing 4,000 RPM so you're just making your argument even less valid than I thought you could, good job.

You apparently couldn't find anything I had failed to read properly; another unfounded accusation. I was not making assumptions on the 2 second & heat thing, it's blatantly obvious that it happened at high revs; another one of your false accusations. The Ti rods have different heat dissipation properties, but that will make very little difference to the heat that spread through the crank. It doesn't matter if it happened at 14,000 or 14,000,000 RPM. It takes time for the heat to travel from the journal to the web like it did. Since you've got an education in physics I'm sure you could figure out the approximate time it took...but it'll require math. You can keep digging for a "gotcha" but it's looking to be futile. The more you try the more wrong you get, it would probably be in your best interest to let it go and just accept that you're wrong since you'll refuse to learn anything useful.

What did I fail to carefully read and what did I assume? No bluing of the crank and no melted rod just as I'd expect from the description of what happened. Should I have expected different for some reason? It does seem like very minimal damage for being driven an additional 150 miles, but not impossible.

Pretty sure I mentioned that as a possible reason that particular bearing was the first damage spot.

Partly to shed light on what happened, and because you insulted me for no good reason and I don't feel like leaving just for your comfort. If you don't want to interact with me you're free to stop at any time. You act like I broke into your house and tied you up; you have free will, use it. Lots of people ignore you instead of telling you to GTFO, man up.

Love it!

I didn't ask you to prove anything and I won't GTFO yet, but if you prove I'm just an ignorant idiot that only knows about 30-40 year old engines as you claimed I will GTFO of your present and future threads forever. If you want to back your claims/insults start by acknowledging that I correctly guessed the clogged pick-up. Then explain why I would need special knowledge about that particular engine to be able to conclude that there was excessive heat at that rod/crank for more than 2 seconds. You explain how it is that the specialness of that engine makes it so that the crank journal didn't have to be heated to a ridiculous temperature make it change color like that. Also explain why it had such thick rod bearings that the huge gap isn't more than just missing bearing material. I'll give you some starting help in case you didn't know. It takes around 600f to create that 'rainbow' so for the web to be heated to that temperature that far from the journal it would take a shit load more heat at the journal for enough time for that heat to travel into the web. I don't know how hot the journal would have to be for the web to reach 600 in 2 seconds, but probably more than the metal could take without the journal melting considerably.

She probably tried to raise a decent person, I don't blame her for you.

Interesting that the only person who said 'blocked oil pump inlet' is the only one being attacked and said to not know dick about engines. I thought you were actually asking for help in diagnosing it, that's why I chimed in. I didn't think your insanity ran so deep as to be pissed for that. It doesn't take being a self trained Cuban specialist to see the colors and know that it took lots of heat and time to make that happen. Or to see the huge gap between the rod & crank and know that lots of metal was removed, not just the bearing. Or to know that it takes more than two seconds for a rod/crank interface to go from perfect to that. Or to understand that if no other bearings were damaged it probably wasn't generalized oil starvation that caused it. You can't deal with facts, especially from Cubans, you've made that very clear for a long time, but I thought it might be different when talking about an engine vs. the political and other bullshit. Keep me on ignore, it's better for everyone. If I'm on ignore I can stay in your thread without feeling bad that my input will bother you, so please "ignore", or just man the fuck up and deal with it.

There's a lot more gone than just the bearing, there's a shit ton of rod and/or crank gone too. With the evident heat that went on that thing shoulda been crying for a while.

But if it wasn't debris at that bearing why is that the only one damaged? It could just be that it's the one at the far end of the path so it got more starved than the others, but that's a lot of damage for just a general starving, assuming the others are not damaged.

Plugged the pump's inlet; I WON! But since I'm on ignore I won't be getting a prize😪 But if that's the only damaged bearing it wasn't the plugged inlet alone that killed it, some of that plastic probably got to that bearing.

The filter has a bypass that should let the oil keep flowing, but it coulda plugged the oil pump's intake. More likely, something got through the bypass and landed at that bearing, assuming the other bearings are ok. The obvious signs of mega heat there tell me it wasn't a 2 second ordeal, there was probably something going on with that bearing for quite a bit longer and it went unnoticed.

The amperage is part of it, plus being more voltage. I was shocked the first time I hit the button with the lithium, almost sounded like idle speed before it fired, and fired real quick. Now I'm back to a normal one and can hear the compression strokes during cranking.

I haven't measured the draw on my bike, but 3ish months and the battery was dead. On the shelf they're said to go over a year without a problem. The first time it went dead was only after a couple weeks, but before parking it I was trying to diagnose a problem and I did several short run cycles and and some key on diagnosing so it got drained down before being parked.

I discharged mine way below 11v. a few times. Down to where the dash lights didn't come on when I turned the key on. I used a normal charger and it was very quick to restart.

I'd be a fool not to, I'll take it.

I wonder what cells they use. It might be rebuildable cheaply. I'd open it up to see, worst case scen

Carlos nailed it.

How do you balance charge a series of cells in a sealed case?