superhawk996

Somewhere under the smoldering pile of ashes.

Sintered pads, like the HH, are common on sport bikes and some others.

How do you manage to pass on bad info so often? EBC HH is the go-to track day pad, not just said by riders, that's what EBC says. And synthetic brake fluid absorbs moisture, it basically says so right on the bottle. An organic or semi-metallic pad would be less than ideal for hard use, but they're good for normal riding. There are different flavors of HH, but in general they're an all around pad that's more 'race inspired' but still good for street use.

I ran Galfers on the SuperHawk, no complaints. They suggested different types front & rear, one was the green and I think the other was black. He suggested a less aggressive pad for the rear which I think was the black. The Galfer pads look more like automotive type material and they say the rotors last longer with them. No clue on price. HH pads seem to be everyone's go-to, no idea if they're actually better in some way or maybe it's the racer's choice so the street guys use them. Way back I read a long article about pads and the effects of different materials, but don't remember the specifics. Some have more initial bite but less progression as the pressure goes up, some are the opposite. Some do better with high heat like hard track use. Tho kinda spendy they can last a really long time, depending on how you ride, so it's probably not a place to look at the cost as a priority. Any will work fine for most conditions, but rather than take a user's suggestion without reasoning for their choice I suggest a little research and choose according to your needs/wants.

🤣🤣🤣

I washed my Nextel a few times, never thunk to use the washing machine. Smart.

AFAIK there's no way to balance charge without individual connections to the cells. There might be some voodoo circuitry that makes it more balanced than other batteries, I'm guessing it's just a gimmick. I would side towards disconnecting it instead of using a maintainer. I have no special knowledge to say that's the right suggestion, just what little I know about lithium makes me think that leaving it to stand on its own would be better than constantly feeding it to counter the bike's drain. If the bike has no drain then no biggie, just walk away.

Pretty sure you'll need a special charger to make use of those balance charging connections. But for normal charging none of them need a special charger.

And acknowledge that I was right about the clogged pump inlet. I have answers, do you?

I doubt he's even read my theories and what he posted has nothing to do with defending anything. I invite education and don't at all mind being proven wrong, I'll even entertain unproven reasonable evidence. Since you refuse to have an honest conversation it's impossible to get anywhere useful.

And acknowledge that I was right about the clogged pump inlet.

I did, you can't comprehend.

Bend if it gets hit? Probably. Bend for no good reason? No. Just put it on wherever the law requires and stop overthinking it. It's a fucking sticker, it ain't rocket surgery.

Good for you! 'Till you get busted. What's the penalty?

Does the sticker have to go on a fork or is that just where you want to put it?

I guess I shoulda known better, but figured it was a completely different deal than the usual threads and thought he would be different. I truly thought he was seeking an answer, or maybe just playing a fun game of 'guess what happened', either way I didn't expect such a clusterfuck. Despite my conscious desire to be fair and honest I know that the past will come though in my posts to him. On a scale of 1-10, or however you want to quantify it, how much of my prejudice do you think I put out to him? And that is out there for anyone else willing to chime in, I'm just trying to learn.

The crank journal temp went over 600 long enough for the web to hit 600 pretty far from the journal and there was more than just bearing material gone, the evidence is clear, enjoy your feelings.

I'd never noticed that button and for some reason it just hit me.

600f, pretty sure that's the number I stated earlier. The bearing doesn't need to stay intact, and it very clearly did not so again you're proving to be blind to the obvious. The rod will continue doing the friction work well after the bearing is gone. And that's the last question I'll answer from you 'till you answer my questions.

I should have realized from the start that the conversation would just turn into the same ole stupid argument, but I got sucked in because this time it's a totally different deal than the political or other BS discussions. But yea, it doesn't matter if something can be proven to a person that's committed to their personal version of reality. Maybe he'll admit that his version just makes him feel better, Terry at least 'manned' up with that.

It seems extra nutty that he would ask how the rod melted without bluing the crank when he has held and photographed his blued crank.

Since that didn't happen there is nothing to answer.

He refuses to acknowledge when the other person is right so maybe it's both, and/or option #3, he's just a dick.

I can't tell if he's really that distorted or is just trolling. It appears to be that he's honestly incapable of reading something without reading in his own version of the other person's words, but dunno.

Yup.