superhawk996

If it has a Power Commander or any other tuning device take that off and see if things change.

A vacuum leak would cause a lean condition, unless that leak is in the hoses going to the MAP sensor. My guess is that, or a sensor that's gone bad, or maybe wiring to the coils causing a weak spark. Since you say you've gone through all the wiring I'll stick with a sensor fault. A sensor that died or got disconnected should trigger the FI light and set a fault code, but one sending a wrong signal might not. The manual gives specs for testing the BARO, MAP, and TP sensors; you could start by checking those. The rest of them have no test procedure listed, but there may be a way to test them I don't know of. Other thoughts would be the automatic fuel petcock, if it can fail to where the vacuum hose is sucking gas through it that would cause a rich condition but I think the hose goes to just one cylinder; do check tho. Maybe a block in the fuel return from the FPR to the tank; kinked hose or a failure in the FPR is all I could figure that would stop the flow. If the FPR was replaced after this problem started it's unlikely that it's the cause.

The auto enrichment is handled by separate components, not one 'auto choke'.

Pictures I've seen of the two say they're not interchangeable, but don't know for sure. Have you looked for an aftermarket one? I recall reading of one that was a fixed advance and another that was adjustable. A PC should also let you change the timing. Lastly would be DIY modifying, I've done this on a few vehicles. Slotting the 'fixed' mounting points so they can be adjusted. I haven't paid attention to the XX set up to know if that would be possible.

And welcome to the nuthouse.

Fouling plugs; sounds like it's running rich, not lean, or has a spark issue. New FPR, but check it anyway; pull the vacuum hose off and make sure there's no fuel coming from the FPR when you turn the key on. Is it just fouling just one plug or all of them about evenly? Does the FI light come on or flicker? Sometimes it'll dimly flicker and not be real obvious. Have you checked, cleaned, or eliminated the test connector on it? If it hasn't been done there's a good chance it's starting to go bad.

I think a skinny bottle brush should let you get all around the piston without removal. I don't know for sure as I've never bothered to clean them.

It's for a buddy, waiting to hear back.

I'm interested in the windscreen. Lemme know what it'll run.

Turn it on and put a voltmeter to them. A digital meter will show - before the voltage if the leads are backwards and an analog's needle will try to go down instead of up. If you don't have a meter just touch/rub them to a charged car battery with the charger on, smaller spark = correct polarity. Most paired DC wires have a marker where the insulation on one has little stripes of rubber, I think that's the positive but don't remember. If you have any other devices around check their wires.

A real man would open it up and GTFO, our cops don't have Birds.

I'd just woken up, it's possible I was still drunk but probably not. We'd talked about my malfunctioning AR earlier in this thread, Aunt 0 recently got his hemorrhoid chopped; it's all clear as mud in my brain so keep up fucker.

I fixed my gun a few months ago, Mike finally got off the roids; have you figured out your squats yet? And I figured something out about AR15s, don't buy a Colt. The NOS 1989 HBAR I sold to my friend was having issues, turned out to be a problem with the bolt carrier. The slot for the cam pin was machined wrong and hanging it up. I dremelized it and it seems to have worked but hasn't been put under fire to verify. May just be a coincidence that the only two Colts I've been around had issues, or their QC just sucks.

Stress/depression/anxiety can be a bitch and it's often hard to tell if they're the cause of physical issues, I have trouble with this. As far as that list of daily pills, have you run it past a Dr. or just taking stuff you think you need? I don't know what some of that stuff is nor what they all do, just looks like a potential soup of crap going on. How well you sleep is something else to think about.

I've been let off a couple times, had my written speed reduced from real speed, additional infractions ignored, etc. and assume if there was a detector visible they'd be less likely to do that. Flipside is I may not have had to have those conversations with a detector in play. A hidden one seems the best way to go. If a tank bag is out, how bout mounting it under the nose? Obviously it would have to be wired to external speakers/headset, but it's always there and unlikely to be seen. I generally drive at my own decided prudent speed, which is usually above posted, sometimes well above posted. I haven't been pulled over in many years, don't know if it's luck, being observant, or what. Last time it happened was in Az and the way it happened tells me it was only because I had a Ca license plate, first and last time I go to Az without removing it. I was also stuck in a pack of cars doing the same speed and was likely being less observant because of it. The cop had to peel the tailgater off of me but wouldn't acknowledge that he singled me out for any particular reason, "I can only stop one of you" was his answer. At least online traffic school for Az was fairly cheap & easy, in Ca you have to pay the full fine plus a traffic school priveledge fee and whatever the school charges. IIRC the Az ticket was reduced to a small 'clerical fee' after doing the school, Ca stopped doing that a million years ago.

Now that I know it was someone who actually did the testing time it makes total sense.

Oh, I didn't know you had someone with such a solid resume do it. I assumed it was just some yahoo professional with a dyno shop or something. I shoulda known better than to ask, damn my curiosity.

Verify it was too rich, that it needed the the PC to cure it, and that the PC indeed cured it. I find it odd that the factory would have it run rich at cruise when they're always trying to get the leanest clean burn from stuff.

Did you verify this with some kind of testing equipment?

Lingerie would be racy, I'm guessing granny panties.

What do you mean by lacking shifter?

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/mcy/d/yamaha-star-650-classic-vstar/6314458151.html $1000 to the forum. Located in 91745, So.Cal. Little issues, nothing that would stop me from riding it other than it doesn't suit me. First guy showed up and handed me 1500, no hassles and happy to have the bike. He was gonna put it in his truck but then decided to leave his truck and ride home, he was anxious to enjoy it. The motor blew on his way. I haven't looked yet, but he said there's a hole in the motor.

Mine has a SS clutch hose and I have no complaints. Been so long since I rode a stocker I can't say how different it is if any difference. I can see where if someone got used to launching a certain way then made a change he'd have to change how he launches.

This is often in my mind, seems many people don't consider it or are just stuck on spewing their ignorance, defending themselves, attacking others, etc. I've gotten shit on other forums for challenging or correcting stupid stuff and it seems that few understand that leaving these poisonous crumbs around for someone to pick up isn't good.

I've never seen an average rider on a XX in MotoGT or Superbike dealing with traffic and the surprises that come with street riding, there is a reason that race bikes aren't street bikes and vise versa. If what's used on the track dictates what should be used on the street we have a fuck ton of mods to do beyond de-linking. My first Bird was linked and altho the feel kinda bugged me here & there, it was never a true problem. I don't recall ever locking the rear on the linked one but have on my current de-linked one, tho luckily it hasn't been a problem either.