superhawk996

Or restore it. I won't argue against doing an alignment regularly and after replacing components, but it's not that crucial in most cases. There are many times I've replaced shit and done an eyeball/tape measure alignment and told the customer to get an alignment ASAP. Every damn time the vehicle runs straight so they don't bother. I've yet to see any adverse effects that I can remember.

Fail three is back on you because replacing an old part with a new part won't necessarily change the alignment. And if it takes 6 months to realize that it's not tracking right that is a whole different kinda fail.

Maybe, but I've never had a noticeable change in alignment from doing struts.

The power of impact guns varies a lot. If it's a cheapo, especially an old one, it may not be doing much. Verify that the regulator on the compressor is maxed out and that the gun's adjustment is too, I've seen some that were miss-marked. If you're using an extension it can greatly reduce the power delivered. Put some heat to the bolts next time you're ready to try.

Make sure the mounts, boots, bumpstops, etc. are good before you install them.

Didn't see that on their website, but if that's what they state I call double bullshit and I wanna see that statement so I know to not buy anything from them. Tank corrosion happens on the bottom where water settles, vapors aren't gonna help. I pulled the leaking aluminum tank out of the first boat I bought figuring I'd just epoxy the hole. I cleaned it out and filled it with water to find the hole, it was raining all across the bottom. I've since then looked inside several boat tanks and have never found corrosion anywhere but the bottom.

For the price of OE at the dealer you can probably buy Bilstiens online. Not that you need such a high end shock. I put KYB G2s on my Explorer and was amazed at how good they were. Got the whole set on amazon for under $50, unfuckinbelievable. If it has shocks or struts with the spring attached you'll need a spring compressor, of take them to a shop to swap springs for you, or buy complete units. Never done that vehicle so no clue what it has.

Unless you get lucky, it happens.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/d/mercury-tracer-registered/6419188640.html

That was my first guess, but then thought no…must be something else.

Whatever works is the right method.

I wonder if anyone makes a stabilizer stabilizer. I've had some old red stuff that turned dark and had a bit of a film on the bottom of the bottle. That combined with their marketing doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling about the stuff. I've also ignored stabilizing lots of stuff that's sat around for months and had no detectable issues.

The blue stuff is for marine use and the red for land. Blue in a land vehicle will blow it up and vice-versa. Their website will tell you what each formula is for, but without telling how or why it works for any of the different applications. I'm guessing there's no real difference other than color. I don't even know that any of the different flavors of stabil do what they claim, but it's a feel good feeling so I've used it here & there. The 'facts' on their website are pretty compelling, but then I read why the marine is so different from the land version and it's the usual "harsh corrosive marine environment crap" that's on every marine product. My boat has a pair of the same engines that a car or truck would have and barring some minor tweaks for safety, the fuel systems are the same also. It's also cute that the marine version is stated to protect against corrosion above and below the waterline…..um, yea. The other odd thing is that the red is, or at least was, marketed as working for diesel and gas, but now they have a diesel specific formula. Then again the red used to work perfectly for everything and now there's a few different flavors for specific uses. I'd love to see a chemical breakdown of the 'active ingredients' on their stuff.

Don't get it.

I've done some stupid shit, but that would be downright retarded.

That front control arm tells me a rust inspection is in order.

F-350 on 37s. Cherokee on 35s. M1 Carbine. Motoguzzi V-1000 Convert. .22 Magnum. 550 Jetski. '73 Mustang. Taurus .38.

The only thing missing on his ad is 'easy fix'.

Which means someone ^^^^^ doesn't understand EFI.

First off, the octane of AVgas can't be compared to pump gas, different standards. As for your bike and leaded gas, it might have catalytic converters. I think if it's a 49 state model it doesn't, and if Ca. emissions it does, but not sure. If it has O2 sensors those won't be happy with lead either, but one tank probably won't kill them. From what I've read avgas is 'cleaner' and won't leave residues like street gas.

There's possibly an off the shelf piston that'll work, just a matter of finding it if it exists. I discovered that a Toyota 22R piston would likely work for an air cooled VW as a cheap big bore replacement. Just happened to have both laying around the garage and got curious so I did a quick check.

I don't see why they'd need longer skirts.

But all cylinders are rich so probably not an injector. There's either excess fuel or a lack of spark energy to all 4. Pretty unlikely, but make sure something didn't get sucked up into the air intake blocking the airflow.

Ah, I think those are what Honda calls 'starter valves'. The book doesn't explain what they do or how they work and I can't tell from the pictures. Never dug into them on a bike to see. I assume they're actuated by the wax unit. I can't see how they can do anything for fuel flow and appear to control air flow. Either way it doesn't appear they could do enough to cause major run problems like Indy's having. If they do control fuel then maybe, but they'd have to all be stuck. Do you know what exactly was sticking it and do you know what they actually do?

If it has a Power Commander or any other tuning device take that off and see if things change.