superhawk996

Yes, temperature helps a lot when pressing shit. Chill the inside part, heat the outside part. But have yourself and the tools ready, sucks to get halfway pressed and have the parts lock up because the temperatures equalized and things got tight when you expected an easy slip fit.

The blue Purolator isn't new, if it's the same one I'm thinking of. The blue in a hexagonal box is ONE, not PureONE and it's been around a couple years. If it's not the ONE then it's something new I don't know about. If they've stopped making the PureONE I also don't know about that. What did the threads bottom out on? I don't recall seeing any filter with anything inside it smaller than the diameter of the threads.

Torque by feel works if you have acquired the feel, otherwise it usually leads to shit being over tightened, and once in a while left loose. If you had the feel your pan would still be intact because you would have ignored the number when your feel said "stop, something's not right". I torque lots of stuff by feel because I wrench a lot and feel that I have the feel, but when someone wants specs and will use a torque wrench I applaud them for not going at it willy-nilly and fucking something up. Average torque on a rear axle nut is around 70 and I've watched guys who know this crank them down to double that and more. Much like most people will over tighten lug nuts to ludicrous torque. If you're using a normal length 1/2" drive ratchet to tighten your axle and you stand on it you've already gone overboard, when you jump on it it's now at ludicrous torque.

My most often used driver for races & seals are sockets.

Now I think I remember the carbie vs. FI difference; I think one of them has space for a slightly oversized Pure One, but I think the smaller one fits both...been a while. Everything I've read says they're the same, but I think there are some sizes not available as Motorcraft. Motorcraft are cheapest at Walmart, and probably cheaper than Pure One anywhere but the Ford dealer. Walmart only carries the ones that sell best so the selection is somewhat limited. You can do a cross reference and find that there are Motorcraft for many applications, I'm running one on the Jeep Liberty and have used them on bikes and lots of cars.

I didn't even know we had a shop manual here.

As for filters, Purolator Pure One/AKA Motorcraft are high quality/decent price. I think there's one that fits the FI bird but not the carbie, or maybe vise-versa. The threads & seal surface are the same for both, but header clearance I think precludes it on one of them.

T6 is the 'go to' oil for lots of people, and not just for diesels. I've seen really good analysis from using it in the Jeep 4.0 as well as a few others. It's fairly cheap for the quality. Never tried it in a bike, but it shouldn't have any clutch issues. Edit: the Rotella I've used in bikes is the older 15-40 (I think it's T4) and not synthetic. Used it in: CB750, SuperHawk, Seca Turbo, XX, and several others. It's also been my go-to for every inboard boat engine, motorhome, and other vehicles. With the cars I've recently moved to Pensoil Platinum 0-40 because of some tests I saw on it combined with a write-up by a lubrication engineer.

Ride faster, make wind. But really, is yours noticeably weaker than it should be?

AFAIKBZITE the gold cap just denotes "extended performance" which means it's designed to run longer service intervals. I'd have no hesitation to run 15-50 silver if that's what you're finding. Another option is 15-40 diesel oils like Rotella. If you have an early Bird with the 9 plate clutch it might have a little bit of sticky clutch syndrome, but the later bikes with the smaller clutch pack seem to not care. Other than the '97 Bird, no other bike I've used 15-40 in seemed to have any problems. Car spec 10-40 should be fine as long as it doesn't have the "energy conserving" label which I don't think any do. Or just pay the premium for good motorcycle spec 10-40.

JB weld probably won't hold up to the heat, but no harm in trying. There's also some exhaust sealant stuff that's kinda like clay, it won't help much for bonding/strengthening the cracked area, but should seal it up.

5500 miles and only $3500 sounds great but: Chinese fairings, (they appear to be) mismatched wheels, missing splash shield, uneven mufflers. Polished frame and analog gauges. Maybe someone's customizing toy, or a crackhead/dude fixed up a wreck. "linked ABS" in the description makes me think the latter. Wonder what the story is.

It's off the market. He decided to hold off on selling it.

Down to one partial kit and a few of the "engine ear" things, the handheld piece with a microphone and DB meter used as a stethoscope to pinpoint noises. The partial kit as no headphones and only 3 of the clip on microphones. It'll work fine like that, I've never used them all at the same time. $30 shipped for the partial kit and $10 ea. for the engine ear.

Yea, the super low hours can be good or bad. Some will continue to have the services done, most will say "but I hardly used it" and skip all maintenance. Normal items aside, after 11 years with the drive at full tilt the bellows would be suspect. Not a huge deal breaker, but something to check before dunking it and possibly creating other problems. Note to I/O boat owners, it's best to lower your drive as much as possible when parked, and definitely if in a slip. I don't know why, but I see many boats in the marina with their drives up. Must be left-over mentality from when they were trailer boaters.

Nope.

Is that a front/back view of a coin, two coin sets, two separate coins?

No. A little Googling will show you that's not how it works.

Are you saying that active regen cycles don't put fuel into the oil or just saying that it's not common knowledge that it puts fuel into the oil?

I like my WhiteBird.

The one in the ad appears to have the stand stop, about where I recall my Yosh having it.

Mine had it.

To burn his house down?

I emailed him again for the dyno sheets, nothing.