superhawk996

And if you need carbs for that 2001 motor I've got a set I keep forgetting to post.

If you have it shipped and it's not as described are you entitled to a refund on the shipping cost or do you have to return the vehicle on your dime to get a refund on the purchase?

My question was how they connect to house's hot feed line. I assume the outlets of both heaters T together, or was the house's hot line cut somewhere & the new heater spliced into it?

Kinda wish I still had a BB motor laying around.

What symptoms are you having and how bad was the windshield leak? Maybe the GEM can be dried out and work again.

Funny timing, I just dragged a GEM home. It was coordinated with Mikesail, he's been entrusted to help clear out a 'warehouse' full of stuff so of course some of it is falling on me. Silly ass vehicle, but it looked like fun. Knowing it was retarded to drag it home I asked Ashley about it knowing she would set me straight. Instead she said HELL YEA! She can't wait to take it to the store. I have the missing wheel cover to beautify it. I'm praying I can rejuvenate the batteries, buying 6 batteries will hurt.

I read a long ass write up by some oil specialist about gas engine oils and what I took away from it was to use 0-40 Pennzoil platinum in damn near everything. The Rotella T-6, in my mind, would also fall under the category of one size fits almost all. Lots of people on the Cherokee forum are using T-6 and oil analysis are coming back very good.

If they're that brittle it would seem like an indication that it's time to replace them. So are both heaters T'ed together at the pipe that supplies the house?

SoCal, just outside Los Angeles....a little more than around the corner from you.

It's so purdy, I'm glad it's not local or I'd probably have to buy it.

Curious why you have an extra engine/gearbox, and why you call them out separately when they're essentially one unit?

Actual answer: no.

Come on, do it for the fun.

Assumed on time because the annual thing is commonly accepted. You could do an oil analysis on them and see. Some engines do better than others with short trips and humidity.

Here's some stuff to ponder against doing frequent oil changes. Every time you change the oil you have a long dry start. A new filter passes more junk than one that's a little bit plugged up. According to 'experts' in the field when new oil is put in the cleaning/lubricating additives have a small battle 'till a balance is restored. This may be more of an issue when switching oil types, dunno. Also, every oil change opens the possibility of getting a bad filter, getting a bad batch of oil, making a mistake. I know they're probably 1 in a million type things, but why remove something that's still good to replace it with a new one. It would be like changing air filters every 5k, or replacing the battery every year just in case. Excessive oil changes are one of those 'feel good' things many do that might actually be worse than waiting 'till it's actually time. And it's obviously worse for the environment.

Jumping it with the car off will do no harm, car running...maybe. There's a whole lotta fishiness going on with that bike.

$2000 shipped and I'll make sure it's treated like a princess.

Perhaps, but people buying something to part it out are looking to spend a couple hundred at most, not full street value. A whole motor, $700. Swingarm, $40. Forks, $200. Gas tank, $300.....and these are prices I've seen on 'normal' mile parts, not 100k mile parts. So, many hours of work later and piles of stuff littering the garage, about half of the investment is returned. Nobody in his right mind would do this. Buying your bike with all the extras and parting out unwanted ones kinda makes sense. If someone doesn't care for the luggage and spares & stuff then selling them off does make the total price more attractive. Without those extras I wouldn't even entertain it. The biggest hurdles for either of my buddies will be not being able to see/ride it, especially because of the miles, and the shipping cost. If we were local I know they'd pay $2k, and probably 2500 if it's as clean as you say. Cosmetics are always iffy, one sees no damage and the next person fixates on every flaw. What city/state are you in?

The other resident junkyard dog already started. He's bigger, I think I'm a little quicker and able to evade the bites. If he takes it it means I don't have to think about it, no biting necessary.....but a little nibble would be a nice touch.

And what area you live in to get an idea on shipping or picking it up.

Please send me or post some daylight photos, and show any damage on the bike. I'll talk to my buddies and see if they're interested.

Searching for a price would be the logical conclusion. When I see "testing the waters" on CL it's usually someone who will only sell at top book value plus all his mods at full cost making this a $5k bike. Your assessment of $1500-2k is probably about right, depending on whether there's visible crash damage and how much. The mileage will scare off most people so the number of people willing to pay over @2k is gonna be small. I have two potential buyers, but without checking it out I wouldn't sell them on it at anywhere near his book value even with everything thrown in.

Or at least give it a charge or quick jump to see the miles. The odometer reading will be needed for the transfer paperwork so it'll need to be done anyway. When I first read his thing about not being sure of the miles I was thinking that he thought it looses track of the miles so it might be different than displayed.

I have two friends who've asked me to keep an eye out for a good XX at the right price. Shoot me a number for the whole package and I'll talk to them.

"I'll get around to that". Fuck, something else that needs fixing, ok I'll get on it soon. Fuck, 5 things that.....fuck this, it's too much to think about. I'll have a cocktail and think about it. Oh look, a squirrel.