superhawk996

It's been asked before: when you put someone on ignore their posts aren't shown, but it puts in a little line saying "you've chosen to ignore content by tomek" and then a clickable "options" that lets you see that post, change your ignore settings, or stop ignoring the person. I chose not to ignore PMs in case he ever gets on the meds or whatever it'll take to be 'normal' and he wants to reach out.

I don't think I said anything that could in any way be taken as an insult or challenge, other than the shifting thing which I went out of my way to put a emoticon on to hopefully make it obvious that I was just joking. I asked an ignorant question that you coulda just answered or ignored, but no. Since you're unable to act like a decent person maybe you should just go back to ignoring me. Actually, since you're committed to being a pissy little cunt with nothing worth listening to I'll put you on ignore and make everyone's lives better.

Poor guy has CDS, Cuban derangement syndrome, he can't help it. I wonder if Castro and his goons come to him in his dreams.

It would be nice, but unfortunately he can't/won't and must attack/insult. But, in his defense he is absolutely correct about the squish. At the time I typed that I was thinking about compression ratio and squish at the same time and convoluted them in my head. A thinner gasket will increase compression ratio and squish, milling the head will only increase compression ratio. Basically, squish is the space left in the tightest space between the piston and cylinder head so milling the head won't change that very much if at all, depending on the head and piston shapes. To effectively increase squish in most engines you have to raise the piston, lower the head, or change the shape of either/both to create a tighter squish area.

And learn how to fuckin shift! 😇

Good thing the trans started acting up and you decided to do the teardown, that driveshaft looks like it was close to grenading which could be real fun at high speed. The work you're doing on the ports & cam timing could wake it up some. When you reduce the squish the cam timing will retard some, no clue how much as I've never checked, but it would be worth re-checking after you get it assembled. I understand not machining the cylinder block to gain squish, but why can't the heads be machined? Seems like it could be safer than taking layers out of the gasket if there's enough material in them. Interesting that you mention the ports/seats on the XX, I was a bit disappointed when I took a XX head apart. Seems like there's a fair bit of room for improvement which is kinda cool if one wants to put the work into it.

Wire, relay, fuse; problem solved. You can connect to the relay feed side for constant power stuff and the switched side for engine on only stuff. Simpler, smaller, and way cheaper than the high dollar solutions. But the strange way is the Zero way so carry on.

Unfortunately so. I really thought these expensive devices were solving a problem that $5 worth of stuff couldn't, but it appears not.

I'm trying to understand the purpose in programming circuits to turn stuff on/off. Is it to turn something on/off when you turn something else on/off? Other than the camera, what do you power from it and what is the programming? Like when does that stuff turn on/off and why not just a relay that turns on when the bike is on?

I'm curious what this thing actually does. Do you have buttons that you hit to turn shit on/off? Does it just turn on all programmed circuits when you turn the bike on? And what stuff do you want always on while the bike is off?

I've never used one, but have used my Lithium battery jumper quite a bit. From the little I know about capacitors my guess is that it'll be bigger, heavier, and more expensive for an equal amount of starting power, tho since they work so differently it's nearly impossible to really judge what an equal amount of power is for one vs. the other. If it's an engine that takes a long cranking time to fire the lithium will do way better, but most engines start pretty quickly. A car with pushbutton start or some of the other electronic starter controls might have trouble with the capacitor type jumper. The capacitor is probably much more temperature tolerant, probably has a longer life, and it's maintenance free. If you want to throw it in the car and never think about it, the capacitor is the winner, as long as your vehicle battery doesn't go completely dead when you're all alone. If you don't mind checking/charging it occasionally and the temperatures won't be crazy I think a lithium is better. In a case where the vehicle's charging system shits out it could get you down the road a fair bit where the capacitor won't. The lithium also lets you charge a phone which could be what gets you help.

I had the same with mine. Your Penske was probably adjusted up, throw a shim in the top mount and you'll at least regain the height & better steering angle.

That's what I thought I'd done with mine but couldn't remember. It'll be a helpful reminder when I get around to rebuilding it and put it in.

I don't remember how I removed mine. It was going to be rebuilt so I mighta taken the hose off, but I think I was able to get the reservoir out. Maybe just unbolted the fender to drop it out of the way, dunno. If you decide to remove the hose, let the pressure out of the reservoir first. You'll have to refill and bleed the air out of the oil, not a huge deal but an extra little chore. If you're gonna swap it to Jackie's bike it would be a good idea to rebuild it first. The internal rebound bumper breaks down over time and when it disintegrates it'll clog the oil holes and it'll get super stiff or completely lock up. On mine the transition from "something feels a bit off" to it being locked was fairly short. The final sign that something was definitely wrong was when I put it on the center stand and the tire was way off the ground. Supposedly the newer bumper is more resistant to break down.

Reminds me of my first time to a drag strip. Part of tech inspection was the neutral safety switch test for autos. They'd watch as you put it in gear and turn the key, then back into park and turn the key so you 'could't' cheat. My buddy's car didn't have a functional NSS so I quickly wired it to the brake light switch making it easy to cheat without being noticed and it got him through tech.

Did you buy the 4 door version, or just post the wrong link?

And pretty suspicious that they used a stock photo and not one of his Jeep. Pretty retarded since his is much better looking.

That jerk bought an old Ford Econoline bucket truck just to try to trump my old Ford Econoline ambulance. Clearly a targeted attack, you can't trust a guy like that! But, if he says the parts are in good shape you can take that to the bank.

🤣 They have great lawyers and contracts written in ten layers of legalease. I've read/heard of many unethical dealer stories. Being a big high dollar place it's more likely to be legit, but I wouldn't automatically discount the possibility of some fine print fuck you down the road. Especially since they forked over top dollar. But: being a dealership makes it easy for buyers to get financed and this particular Jeep is immaculate so it makes it easy for them to sell.

I'll ask a buddy of mine who recently built/sold a couple 2 door JKs.

That's nuts, and would scare me.

I've only used bottles mounted in the 'normal' mounting position, but even tho those are angled down it seems like under acceleration the liquid would be pushed to the back and a pick-up tube would be more likely to pick up the liquid than without a tube. Has the theory of removing the tube actually been tested or is it just assumed that the tube needs to be removed?

Hadn't noticed there's a bottle on each side. Those would look great on my Bird! Did you make the mounting brackets for the bottles?

Is the NOS just for looks or functional? Can't see the hose. If functional, what's the set-up? Wet or dry, how much HP, ... ?

And fuck you for asking. Edit: I really like being on his ignore list.