superhawk996

I re-geard both my 999s because they're geared super high, the clutches were a bit grabby, and the low RPM running was less than perfect. With the second bike I tuned it and greased the clutch discs and it's possible that if I'd done that first I wouldn't have felt so much of a need to re-gear. It's a long way to say that maybe your bike just needs a little tweaking IF all you're looking for is to smooth out the takeoff & low RPM running. If you just want more grunt then it'll need a gear change. If you can't find a 14t front, consider a bigger rear. From memory the only tuning I did was a TPS reset which is a recommended service routine, found the connector and software on eBay pretty cheap. I mighta made some other changes, but no 'trick' tuning that I recall. Even tho it didn't seem to run poorly enough to indicate something was wrong, it really smoothed it out. If the multi has a dry clutch consider greasing the plates, that made it so nice and controllable compared to the grabby engagement they both had. I was leery of doing it, greasing a car's clutch would make it nearly useless, but with the bike there was no apparent loss of grip/slippage issues. All it takes is a light film of white lithium grease on the friction discs. I assume any grease would work, but I'd avoid one with molybdenum or any other EP additive, there's a chance they would cause slippage.

I don't know about that situation, but it's a risk when you start tightening up clearances willy-nilly. When you add up expansion and stretch what seemed like a safe clearance can get eaten up quickly.

It can be, which would be the illustration Blackhawk posted. The illustration shows the squish at an angle matching an angle on the piston, but they could also be flat. In a 4 stroke you can't effectively do that without impeding the valves so there will be areas around the valves that kinda protrude inward to create squish areas around the valves. Tomek's picture of his head shows pretty typical squish areas, the flat parts that are even with the head gasket surface. The tighter the squish, the space left between the head & piston at TDC, the more effective it is. As the piston nears TDC the air & fuel left in the squish areas is very rapidly pushed toward the center creating lots of turbulence that helps mix the air & fuel, along with a lot of other effects. Generally, an engine with good squish is more efficient and more tolerant of high compression than one without.

In the above illustrated combustion chamber milling the head would increase the squish. I think it's more common that the squish area is flat and at the same level that the head gasket sits on, like Tomek's Viffer head appears to be, and with those milling only increases compression ratio. Milling the cylinder block or case or using a thinner head gasket brings that flat part closer to the piston increasing squish...which might sound backwards because you're decreasing the space to increase squish. Playing with the squish is a hit miss thing, but the generic rule is that increasing squish increases performance. Kinda like increasing the compression ratio increases performance and we know that's not a hard set rule and there are limits, but in production engines there's usually room to increase both and gain power. Squish and compression can both have a pretty dramatic influence over performance, efficiency, and emissions so the factory has to do the balancing act. Tomek does know some good shit and he has the motivation to dive in and giterdone, both are admirable. Especially the latter as I always have 57 things I should/could do that get back burnered. I think if he were as confident in his knowledge/abilities as he portrays he would engage and exchange and probably up his game by a fair bit. Whenever I meet someone who already knows it all about any field I find out that they don't and are just protecting themselves. Or maybe it's my lack of confidence that makes me exchange.....I dunno, I aint no sykologyst.

It's been asked before: when you put someone on ignore their posts aren't shown, but it puts in a little line saying "you've chosen to ignore content by tomek" and then a clickable "options" that lets you see that post, change your ignore settings, or stop ignoring the person. I chose not to ignore PMs in case he ever gets on the meds or whatever it'll take to be 'normal' and he wants to reach out.

I don't think I said anything that could in any way be taken as an insult or challenge, other than the shifting thing which I went out of my way to put a emoticon on to hopefully make it obvious that I was just joking. I asked an ignorant question that you coulda just answered or ignored, but no. Since you're unable to act like a decent person maybe you should just go back to ignoring me. Actually, since you're committed to being a pissy little cunt with nothing worth listening to I'll put you on ignore and make everyone's lives better.

Poor guy has CDS, Cuban derangement syndrome, he can't help it. I wonder if Castro and his goons come to him in his dreams.

It would be nice, but unfortunately he can't/won't and must attack/insult. But, in his defense he is absolutely correct about the squish. At the time I typed that I was thinking about compression ratio and squish at the same time and convoluted them in my head. A thinner gasket will increase compression ratio and squish, milling the head will only increase compression ratio. Basically, squish is the space left in the tightest space between the piston and cylinder head so milling the head won't change that very much if at all, depending on the head and piston shapes. To effectively increase squish in most engines you have to raise the piston, lower the head, or change the shape of either/both to create a tighter squish area.

And learn how to fuckin shift! 😇

Good thing the trans started acting up and you decided to do the teardown, that driveshaft looks like it was close to grenading which could be real fun at high speed. The work you're doing on the ports & cam timing could wake it up some. When you reduce the squish the cam timing will retard some, no clue how much as I've never checked, but it would be worth re-checking after you get it assembled. I understand not machining the cylinder block to gain squish, but why can't the heads be machined? Seems like it could be safer than taking layers out of the gasket if there's enough material in them. Interesting that you mention the ports/seats on the XX, I was a bit disappointed when I took a XX head apart. Seems like there's a fair bit of room for improvement which is kinda cool if one wants to put the work into it.

Wire, relay, fuse; problem solved. You can connect to the relay feed side for constant power stuff and the switched side for engine on only stuff. Simpler, smaller, and way cheaper than the high dollar solutions. But the strange way is the Zero way so carry on.

Unfortunately so. I really thought these expensive devices were solving a problem that $5 worth of stuff couldn't, but it appears not.

I'm trying to understand the purpose in programming circuits to turn stuff on/off. Is it to turn something on/off when you turn something else on/off? Other than the camera, what do you power from it and what is the programming? Like when does that stuff turn on/off and why not just a relay that turns on when the bike is on?

I'm curious what this thing actually does. Do you have buttons that you hit to turn shit on/off? Does it just turn on all programmed circuits when you turn the bike on? And what stuff do you want always on while the bike is off?

I've never used one, but have used my Lithium battery jumper quite a bit. From the little I know about capacitors my guess is that it'll be bigger, heavier, and more expensive for an equal amount of starting power, tho since they work so differently it's nearly impossible to really judge what an equal amount of power is for one vs. the other. If it's an engine that takes a long cranking time to fire the lithium will do way better, but most engines start pretty quickly. A car with pushbutton start or some of the other electronic starter controls might have trouble with the capacitor type jumper. The capacitor is probably much more temperature tolerant, probably has a longer life, and it's maintenance free. If you want to throw it in the car and never think about it, the capacitor is the winner, as long as your vehicle battery doesn't go completely dead when you're all alone. If you don't mind checking/charging it occasionally and the temperatures won't be crazy I think a lithium is better. In a case where the vehicle's charging system shits out it could get you down the road a fair bit where the capacitor won't. The lithium also lets you charge a phone which could be what gets you help.

I had the same with mine. Your Penske was probably adjusted up, throw a shim in the top mount and you'll at least regain the height & better steering angle.

That's what I thought I'd done with mine but couldn't remember. It'll be a helpful reminder when I get around to rebuilding it and put it in.

I don't remember how I removed mine. It was going to be rebuilt so I mighta taken the hose off, but I think I was able to get the reservoir out. Maybe just unbolted the fender to drop it out of the way, dunno. If you decide to remove the hose, let the pressure out of the reservoir first. You'll have to refill and bleed the air out of the oil, not a huge deal but an extra little chore. If you're gonna swap it to Jackie's bike it would be a good idea to rebuild it first. The internal rebound bumper breaks down over time and when it disintegrates it'll clog the oil holes and it'll get super stiff or completely lock up. On mine the transition from "something feels a bit off" to it being locked was fairly short. The final sign that something was definitely wrong was when I put it on the center stand and the tire was way off the ground. Supposedly the newer bumper is more resistant to break down.

Reminds me of my first time to a drag strip. Part of tech inspection was the neutral safety switch test for autos. They'd watch as you put it in gear and turn the key, then back into park and turn the key so you 'could't' cheat. My buddy's car didn't have a functional NSS so I quickly wired it to the brake light switch making it easy to cheat without being noticed and it got him through tech.

Did you buy the 4 door version, or just post the wrong link?

And pretty suspicious that they used a stock photo and not one of his Jeep. Pretty retarded since his is much better looking.

That jerk bought an old Ford Econoline bucket truck just to try to trump my old Ford Econoline ambulance. Clearly a targeted attack, you can't trust a guy like that! But, if he says the parts are in good shape you can take that to the bank.

🤣 They have great lawyers and contracts written in ten layers of legalease. I've read/heard of many unethical dealer stories. Being a big high dollar place it's more likely to be legit, but I wouldn't automatically discount the possibility of some fine print fuck you down the road. Especially since they forked over top dollar. But: being a dealership makes it easy for buyers to get financed and this particular Jeep is immaculate so it makes it easy for them to sell.

I'll ask a buddy of mine who recently built/sold a couple 2 door JKs.

That's nuts, and would scare me.