superhawk996

What do you get from pure gas that makes it worth the premium?

I doubt the stations are allowed to fiddle with fuels, but don't know.

E-10 should get less MPG and lower power than pure gas. I've never heard of winter diesel other than #1 for really cold places. I can imagine #1 giving lower MPG since it's less dense, and there may be other things about it that yield lower efficiency. I don't know of any seasonal variations to the formulation of #2. A diesel will probably loose more efficiency in cold weather than a gasser. As for winter MPG, excluding fuel formulation variations and idle times, consider that all the lubricants are thicker so you'll have more losses there. You tire pressures, unless adjusted, will be lower so more loss there. Headlights are on more. If your car is packing snow/ice there's extra weight and possibly aerodynamic losses. Winter tires have more aggressive tread designs and probably less efficient. Winter tires are often on steel wheels and heaver. And I think that colder air going into the engine can lower MPG also, only tested it once and it wasn't a perfect test.

I don't think the ethanol is varied, I think it's other stuff that's varied to change the vapor pressure, but I've never checked.

I figured it would be at least 92 like we used to have. Our norm is 87, 89, & 91 with a $.10 bump for each grade so it's surprising to see a $.74 jump between reg & premium. If the reg s E-10 and the premium is non--E then it makes a little more sense. E is a cheap octane booster so without it they have to use more expensive stuff. And I assume they can also take advantage of E haters who will pay the premium for it.

Quite a price jump

Is your premium non-E? And is that really the price difference or just a typo?

These came off a '97 with around 65k miles on it. The bike was stock so I assume they're stock also. The bike seemed to run fine 'till it seized from lack of oil so the carbs should be good to go. $150+ shipping. Cylinder head off that same motor. They cracked/tweaked an intake port during removal, 'tards. Two exhaust valves have been re-ground, they seal fine but weren't run; long story I'll tell it if it matters. Shipping + some rum money for my effort. I'll part them out if anyone just wants some pieces.

Good thinking, we often overlook the simple things. And in many cases a dry pump is so quiet you don't notice it running, tho no clue how a dry Bird pump sounds.

How 'bout aftermarket standard replacement style? Guessing a lot less and it'll still filter better.

You fill the air box so it self oils as you drive, kinda like a chain luber; you didn't know this?!? The Mustang I bought was serviced by Jiffy Lube who does K&N service. Guessing they usually ignore it and might occasionally soak it. Since they're quick the oil doesn't have much time to dry. The MAF was pretty gunked up. The guy took it to three different shops and it only got worse, no power and wouldn't pass smog so he gave up and sold it cheap. One of the shops adjusted the timing wrong, that's where it got worse. The guy was sure it was some crazy complex issue since 'nobody' could figure it out and asked me to let him know what it was if I ever figured it out. A couple hours after I left his place I called him to report that it was cured and smogged. "Is the power back too"? I got pulled over for the long smoky burnout leaving the parts store, but no ticket to prove it with.

Dude, really? You have the google, go to K&N.com and read all about it! They definitely flow more, but it usually doesn't matter. There are some cases where the filter area is pretty small and a higher flowing filter can add real HP even compared to a clean paper filter, but not many. For most applications it's doing little or nothing since the paper filter can already flow enough to fully feed the engine. They can save money, but in most cases a paper filter lasts around 60k miles before becoming a measurable restriction. In super dusty conditions it can really save money on filters (at the cost of engine parts) but has to be serviced religiously to even reasonably protect the engine, and it'll never protect as well as paper no matter what you do to it. The only way to get one to be about as protective is to allow it to get packed with dust while keeping it wet, but by the time it's filtering almost as well it's much more restrictive than paper. For those who say 'you're the stupid one wasting money on paper filters', lets look at the numbers. I can get paper for most cars for around $15, K&Ns start around $50. The K&N will also need a $15 service kit so $65. The cost will break even around 200k miles assuming the filter and service kit lasts. During this time the K&N will require much more maintenance time to keep it working decently. You're also likely to have to repeatedly clean the mass air sensor, idle control valve, and throttle body. A dirty air sensor will rob power and fuel economy. I don't see the ROI at all. And lets not forget that a paper filter can also be washed if you really wanna be frugal. K&N is smart enough to not make filters for HD trucks and industrial equipment where they'd get outed. If their filters were really as good as they say they are they'd make them for all those guys and really cash in. The only enthusiast forum I've seen that aggressively attacks K&N is a 7.3 powerstroke forum I'm on. Every time a new guy joins and says he has one he's told to get rid of it ASAP. This is a rare group that wants max performance while still caring about longevity. There are guys on there that have doubled their power and still run paper. On the flip side, I've seen reports on other forums of guys at 300K+ on a gassers running a K&N, but they've all been tinkerers and likely keep them pretty wet which is key with a K&N. I got a Mustang GT convertible for pennies because of a K&N so I do have some love for them.

I'm curious about this because I see a lot of dusty intakes where K&Ns are used. Do you oil it frequently? Wash & oil regularly or just keep oiling then wash when it's plugged up? It's undeniable that a paper filter does a better job, this has shied me away from K&Ns, but I don't know how much impact that dust has on the motor. When I buy something with a K&N on it I either replace it right away or oil it up to buy time. I don't clean it, just oil it real good so it'll filter better. Adding oil to a dusty one makes for better filtration, tho possibly robbing some power.

I don't know what I twisted and had no intent to. Please point out what I made up.

It's not a law of physics. There might be one stating there's 3% less air density or something like that, but that can't dictate how much HP loss an engine will have. Law of knowledge tells me that your 3% 'rule' relies on a system that's properly compensating for the altitude, if the system (or a person) doesn't compensate the loss is bigger. It's well known that traditional carbureted engines loose more than EFI engines at high altitude, your 3% rule is clearly flawed. Again; humidity doesn't help, water can help. Humidity doesn't cool things, water does. And water's ability to cool things is hampered by high humidity. Water cools by absorbing heat as it turns into a gas, humidity is water already in a gaseous state so it's done absorbing heat. It you have something credible showing that humidity helps please post it, water injection and water in the fuel is water, humidity is not water. Your last sentence is generally true, just as high altitude generally allows running higher boost. But that extra boost isn't making more power than you'd have in dry conditions or low altitude. The extra boost is compensating for the lack of oxygen. Making that extra boost takes energy and adds heat so even if it gets the same amount of oxygen into the cylinders there's a power loss when compared to low humidity/low altitude and less boost.

Dynos correct can as well as they can using whatever programing they have. If they were perfect there wouldn't be disparities among them. 3%/1,000ft. might be the average loss is, but there's no way it can be the same for every engine. Dry air helps whether NA or not. Water can help make power, humidity hurts.

Sounds much more 'normal'. What exhaust system does it have?

Check fuses. Check the handlebar stop switch, wiggle it with the key on see if the pump fires. Lift the tank and see if you get voltage to the pump. It could also be the test connector in the harness, but they usually give some warning like the FI light flickering and intermittent misfires before totally failing.

Even with a tri-y exhaust? That's gotta be worth at least 20hp!

What was your speed on those 10 flat runs?

Tho tri-Y usually refers to v-8 hot rod headers, the stock XX header, including most aftermarkets, is basically a tri-y. The 4 head pipes are paired down to 2, then paired again to 1; 3 Ys. Then they're possibly split to two or remain as one depending on how many mufflers it's running. A traditional tri-y would probably suck the life outa the bike. They're generally used when cost or space dictates them, they're not chosen for max performance. You also have to beware that different year bikes make different power and even bikes of the same year make different power. If all the tolerances stack one way or the other there can be a substantial difference in how they run. This is one of the reasons that engines that qualify as 'stock' for racing make more power than a truly stock motor makes, you can play with the tolerances. Sensors can make or rob power, different fuels can make or rob, etc. Then another big factor to not overlook is the dyno being used, the same bike can make very different numbers on different dynos. There's also some bikes that get mods and then sold without disclosure; head work, cams, bored, timing advance, etc.

I have http://www.tficontrollers.com/Sportbike/viewproduct.asp?pid=33 which alters the injector signals after the ECU. I think Carlos did a dyno tune on his 2000 BB at their place. The ports might be a bottleneck, but the exhaust is definitely a factor. The right system makes a noticeable power improvement over stock. I also got to experience a wrong system and it sucked the life right outa the motor.

Tuning it to make the most of what you have makes sense, but only you can decide if the cost is worth it. If it runs smoothly and doesn't have issues you could just let it go as it is, no damage should come from that. 140 on that dyno won't be 140 on whatever dyno you strap it to tomorrow so I agree that you should probably ignore the number and only think about what feels like enough power for you.

It is absolutely programable, if you have the right stuff. No clue if anyone outside of Honda has that stuff, but maybe. I've not heard of Power Commanders having a high failure rate, but if the PC fails can't you just disconnect it and ride? There's another device that just adds fuel, that one I know can be removed quickly and ride on the stock ECU. It's adjusted using little screws on the unit, no computer needed. Don't remember the name but will try to remember to take a look at it later. You could also bump the fuel pressure with an aftermarket regulator, but I doubt that would be a good way to go about it. I've never heard of lean damage from running an exhaust without tuning.

I think the fairing decals are removable so it could be original paint. Pretty sure the tank decals are under the clear so those would be pretty hard to strip without a re-paint.