superhawk996

On the technology/control side it could be cheaper today, but today's trucks have a lot more power so the whole axle assembly would have to be stronger & spendier.

The neutral thing could have some validity. Many Dodge trannies have very little flow to the torque converter in P, and possibly other circuits. If the vehicle was parked and fluid drained back, then fired up and left in P it could give a false high reading. AFAIK, if it's been driven and stopped in P to check it should be fine....but best to follow the book.

Typical low fluid symptoms. Check it fully warmed up, idling in park, on a level surface. It probably takes ATF+3, maybe +4, the stick should be marked with the fluid type.

Never seen anything like it, pretty cool. First thing I'd do is find a straight edge to test/verify it with, too many cheap laser devices are not straight out of the box. Second thought is that while a straight sprocket *should* equal straight tire alignment, I'd rather check it at the tire. I'd trust your home made thing more, and I'll take it off your hands if you buy the Monkey.

I've always been a Ford guy, but I'm not blinded by the badge. I had an '01 Chevy 1500 for a while, only bought it to flip, and it was surprisingly awesome. I've had a million vehicles and pretty sure that was my first Chevy. If it had served a purpose, or not been #5-ish 4 wheeled vehicle clogging the place up, I'da kept it. Carlos' diesel Dodge was pretty bitchen and I'd take one, but not without the diesel. I didn't like that it de-fueled when shifting, kinda annoying. I assume they were trying to keep the trans from dying, and it didn't work anyway. Visually I prefer the Ford for the most part, inside & out, a few things I liked about the Dodge. I think the Dodge towing mirrors beat the Ford. Ride quality was probably better than Ford that year, but I'd only driven 4x4 Fords so not sure. I fell in love with the 7.3 in '95, but I like the Cummins more than the 7.3. Easier to work on, 2 fewer cylinders to deal with, and the sound. The sound of a 'real' semi-like diesel engine. I never cared for the Excursion, I thought it was just a monstrous soccer mom car, but love this one. It's got truck towing capability with lots of space and some nice luxuries for a 16 year old Ford. It's got a cushy car like ride, but Ford didn't fuck around on the HD side. It's a truck with a car body on it, even has a full-float Sterling rear end. Without the diesel it would serve no purpose for me. I only bought it because I was searching "Ford 7.3" on CL and this popped up on the cheap. It works hard to tug the 13k lb boat, but does it better than the F-350 V-10 I had before it. After having the Ex and a crew cab short bed, which are about the same size, I think I'd go back to the truck with a shell. Tho the Ex's cargo space can be opened to over 8' length, every once in a while I'd like to haul something that's just too tall to fit in the Ex.

The better part of it is International, and without that I wouldn't have the Ford.

I don't know if any of you guys have one. If so, and it's not tuned, you know it has quite a bit of a power delay when you first hit the pedal. Very shitty when you're trying to jump across an intersection or similar where you want quick response. This is a super cheap & easy way to greatly reduce that delay. I routed a hose from the exhaust pressure sensor port to the Map sensor. This fools the computer into thinking there's boost earlier than it does and cranks the fuel up quickly. It now drives almost like a gasser, power response is almost instant and the turbo spools up way faster. It probably has no effect on max power like a tuned truck will so high EGT or other damage should be a non-issue. A good tuner can do a lot more, including adding fuel economy, so if $ is no object it's the way to go. It can be combined with a tuner, one guy already has and loves it. I think a proper tune shouldn't need this. It has been named the Map Mod by someone on the FTE forum. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1559257-cheap-diy-way-to-reduce-lag.html

Or maybe FiXX's reason, it does make sense.

Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do.

I didn't wanna get off my ass to check, but then felt compelled. I thought it was 8mm, it's VHS-C. I remember some talk about them being cross compatible but don't know. Anyway, it's a handheld JVC VHS-C camcorder, if it'll do the job it's yours.

Pretty sure I finally tossed mine a couple months ago, but I'll check.

Speaking of which. Mine's too low and I thought about adjusting the pushrod on the wax unit, tho I haven't investigated it beyond looking it up in the manual. The book warns not to mess with the adjustment. Is there any issue with adjusting it? I assume it's just an emissions reason that they say not to mess with it, but wondered if there's a real reason to not mess with it, like maybe something can be damaged by adjusting it.

If it's only getting stuck high after a cold start I'd say it's the wax unit or something else in the fast idle circuit getting stuck, otherwise probably not.

So while running the idle went up, or after parking it and it cooling down it was high on the next start?

And no, they weren't stolen, they were from Suzuki America. When Suzuki cars went away all their dealer tools were auctioned off and these were Suzuki branded units. Years later a buddy that does e-waste got a bunch of other Suzuki stuff that I helped him sell, some of which I sold here.

I didn't, and wouldn't pay that much for it. But it is cool as hell. It's more than just a charger, it's also a battery and car system analyzer. It'll put out mega amps for charging, I've seen over 70a displayed, don't know the max. It can 'see' a bad rectifier or other alternator component just by clamping the leads to the car's battery cable terminals, pretty cool. I bought a bunch of them for under $200 each from someone that didn't know how to sell them. I sold them all but one, the ugliest one that would fetch the least $. I sold them for $1k-$2k each, mostly on eBay. I keep contemplating selling this last one, then once in a while it comes in handy so I keep it around. http://www.midtronics.com/shop/products-1/battery-chargers-and-maintenance-products/diagnostic-chargers/gr-series/midtronics-gr8-series-diagnostic-battery-chargers

I have nitrogen and could rig up a fitting....I think, I'd have to re-check my bastard gas cylinder pile. I think it's 150 PSI, but not sure. I did buy it used and gave re-tuning some thought, pretty sure the PO was heavier than I am. There's lots of places I could send it, but I assume the manufacturer is more likely to have the latest updated parts & service procedures. The guy I talked to at Penske told me there are closer places that would save me $ on shipping. When I asked if he had one he'd recommend, no. It could be covering their asses, or just wanting the work; don't know, but he didn't seem to be at all pushy about me sending it to them VS someone else. They supposedly dyno test every shock after rebuilding, that should at least reduce the chance of getting a mistake shipped back. Before I send it to Penske I'll be researching local shops and go from there. It's possible that another shop will do stuff better than Penske, don't know.

Don't be too quick to jump on them. "Trickle charger" is a loose term, it could be .01 amps, or several amps. Regardless, almost any charger will be fine for an initial charge as long as it doesn't pump out too many amps or volts. I've revived many car size batteries with a "trickle charger". There are "ideal" charge rates and just as many exceptions to the rules. The battery charger that's been most successful for me is only rated at 2 amps and it has resurrected batteries that my $3000 charger/analyzer said were fucked, it does so by breaking some of the 'rules' of charging batteries. The mega dollar charger also breaks some of the 'rules' of charging. I assume Midtronics knew what they were doing when they programmed it, $3k is a lot of money.

If the battery was still connected to the bike you still need to verify that something on the bike isn't draining it. If the battery was disconnected and self-discharged to 11.7 then it's definitely done.

I'll chime in, the battery with a full charge and no loads should sit at 12.7. 12.5 is acceptable, but any less indicates a problem. 12 would indicate it's completely fucked.

I just talked to them and the guy said the likely cause is the urethane extension bumper has deteriorated and the material is clogging up the valves. Explains why it's a time failure and not just miles. They've switched materials so it shouldn't happen again. I was gonna rebuild it myself, but it might be worth letting the pros do it. They charge $150 + return shipping. I'll figure out which route to take once I remove it and see if I'm in the mood to crack into it.

Thank you! My gut said it was the shock but I'd never heard of a shock doing this, maybe it's a Penske thing. It's comforting to know yours was still rebuildable after doing that.

Your mom told me that several medical journals say it makes great sex lube. Apparently the stuff is also promoted by cosmetic surgeons cuz I now need an addadicktome and yo mamma's sphincter looks & smells like a burnt tire.

You know you were passed by a computer geek when he has that instead of a trusty spool of bailing wire on his bike.

Just remembered that I have a metric fuck ton of WD-40, and finally a use for it after reading about chain cleaning with it.