superhawk996

Hmm, look at that shit: https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mpo/d/orange-1999-honda-cbr1100xx-blackbird/7054960243.html

I banged a Scorpio for a long while off & on, she was fun, but you fuckers are nuts.

Yup. It shouldn't even have started, then should have been over quickly. Carlos' prediction may well play out. Mike, I call for parts all the damn time whether for new stuff or warrantee replacements. Going there just to get an answer is fucking retarded dude. You're going to have to take in the failed part or pay for the new one to leave with it, then return the failed one to get your money back. And if they don't have the shocks you want when you go there you'll have to go back once they get them, VS calling and verifying stock and ordering them if they don't have them. What's the vehicle and which shocks are you looking to put on it?

Dammit. I was hoping nobody else would notice. I'll turn in my man card....if I can find it.

Other than batteries I have never seen that with an auto parts store, and I buy a fair bit of stuff. Some OEMs do it, the popular explanation is that they want to keep their parts out of circulation, but I don't know the actual reason.

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Same on my 99. And I noticed it on the way to work one morning. I pulled the tank at work and we rigged the shit out of it to get it to hold until I got home. The crazy thing is the one on the drag bike, which has been pulled far, far more times and was cut to feed the wet nitrous system has never leaked. I wonder if Honda was trying to compete with Suzuki after learning about the Hyabusa fires. Interesting that both were early FI bikes, anyone know if that hose was changed on later bikes?

That would be insane.

Do you remember which hoses failed on the bikes and what the failures were?

Thanks for the detailed report. Your guess of stressing it makes sense. It coulda failed without that but from recollection they don't have any strain relief.

Which hoses and did they actually fail or were you just afraid they would? If they did fail what was the failure?

If the receipt shows a core charge or you had to give them the old one it was most likely a rebuild.

It's already begun. I thought it would be impossible for something so simple to become complicated. I wonder what kind of fluid the new part will require.

As far as new vs. reman parts, the reman is often better unless it's a new OEM part. Both were probably assembled by monkeys, both probably have Chinese seals, but at least the reman has OEM hard parts where the new one is likely Chinesium. Something like a steering rack is questionable since the insides of the casting could have some wear, but at least it's a high quality casting. I use a local rebuilder for a lot of parts, they also sell new Chinese stuff. The only thing I've asked them about as far as new vs. reman is CV axle assemblies. He said they're so shitty that they can't be rebuilt where as OEMs can, and he's had a couple new ones come back exploded which never happens with OE unless seriously abused. Chinese tools have definitely taken a leap towards quality lately, often being as good or better than 'high end' stuff, if that extends to other manufacturing we might see better parts. The prices will go up too of course, just as they have with tools.

Your receipt or their system will tell which one you got and you'll get the same one as the replacement. Do you really think that you'll get something other than what you bought?!? As for the part number, I can't imagine there is any fucking way that they both have the same number. If they did I can't imagine how in the hell would they be able to distinguish between the $200 part and the $600 part.

Another post lead me to wonder. It seems like the hoses last forever on bikes and would like to know if you've ever had one fail. Fuel, coolant, vacuum, whatever.

The FPR is a reference type and relies on the vacuum signal for proper pressure and vacuum hose is cheap. That said, I'd put vacuum hoses on the gateway slippery slope list; why not replace all the coolant hoses, and plug wires, and fuel pump, and the million other more important parts that can actually stop the bike? They last 'forever' and are better quality than what you'll get at Auto Zone. Hoses are effected by time, but not that much. Heat does more to them and with 8k miles they haven't been worked hard. The bike I replaced the FPR on had over 50k and sat a long time before I got it. The FPR diaphragm had failed sending gas though the vacuum hose for an unknown amount of time, years later it's still fine. Nothing against changing it, but I wouldn't consider it something that it needs. But the thought leads me to wonder if anyone has had a hose failure on a Bird, or other bike, it seems to be quite rare.

85-ish miles. If you think it's a good bike I'm not opposed to going down there and raping inspecting it for you. I would want direct contact info for the seller to schedule it so it all goes smoothly. You don't know me, but I do lots of pre-purchase inspections as part of my job. As with anything there is no way to guarantee that something's perfect, but I weed out a lot of stuff people miss so I feel pretty confident in saying that if it passes my inspection it's good. I haven't had a single one that went wrong, and I weed out the majority of the crappy deals just from a phone conversation.

The FPR on any car or bike can fail at any time. I have enough experience with them and other rubber fuel system parts to say that sitting, no matter the fuel, can be worse than regular use. The one on my '01Bird shit out very quickly after it sat for an unknown amount of time under the PO's ownership. The one in my Porsche also failed very quickly after a long sit before I bought it, and I'm pretty sure it had non-E gas. I'm not a fan of suggesting unwarranted replacements of stuff and if it were just going to be put into local commuter service I'd say let it go, but in your case I vote for replacement.

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Or 5 hours depending on the time of day....fucking So. Cal. traffic. But still a possibility. Hour & a half south, guessing San Diego-ish?

I did it a few years ago and don't recall there being anything special to it. Put a little motor oil on the o-ring and it should pop right in. Of course, I'm a super pro wrench puller so a dumb novice might have a problem. Just fucking around, but because I do this stuff all the time I know I find lots of things to be 'normal' and often don't acknowledge stuff that a non-wencher might be stumped on, but I'm pretty sure there was nothing special to it. It might take a good twist & tug to pop the old one loose. There's a little spool like thing in there with an o-ring at each end, I didn't do anything with that. Basically the fuel rail has a big hole at the end just like the FPR and this spool is like an adapter that fits into the two holes to join/seal them. If one wanted to be super meticulous he could replace the o-rings on it, but they seem to go 'forever'. From memory: there's nowhere to put a wrench to hold the fuel rail from trying to twist as you put force on the wrench to break the FPR nut loose. The rail is sturdy but instead of just pulling on the wrench 'till it breaks free I'd use a light hammer or large wrench to tap on the wrench to break the nut free, it just puts less torque on the rail which makes me feel better.

I admitted fault but didn't apologize. I am sincerely sorry that I went to an off-limits insult with you, I stopped long ago and I won't do it again.

Tomek double standard continues. You called him an idiot and claim that he did it first. I see no evidence of him doing it and you apparently can't find it either or you would have quoted it to shut us all up. You still won't admit that you were wrong and instead you just keep casting more insults and deflecting away from the fact that you are the one who was fucking wrong, as if that's going to fool anyone but yourself. I have admitted being wrong here, including at least one conversation you were in. I have also outright said Tomek knows more about that than me, or something similar. I have also praised you. I can think you're a total fucking douchebag while still seeing and publicly acknowledge your positives, something you clearly can't do. The first time someone threw a 'your momma joke' at you if you had simply said "hey man, don't do that, it bothers me greatly and it's an off-limits thing", or anything even remotely similar, I don't think there would have ever been a second one from anyone here. But since you were a huge fucking cunt about it a few people jumped in. IIRC you went right past all the options of things to say and threatened him, completely unacceptable behavior whether live or online. I believe that was the moment I decided you were a douchebag and you've continued to expand that ever since. None of that justifies my part in the momma jokes. At one point you said something that finally made me think it actually bothered you in more than a superficial 'fuck off' sort of way and I stopped. Over and over you've gone off on people for simply asking an honest question, or making a provably accurate statement, or even genuinely agreeing with you. Clearly you have a mental problem and it causes you to be a fucking dick, which then leads to others responding in a dickish manner.

If you really did call him an idiot, which I don't recall, it should be very easy for him to quote it and show us all what a liar you are. If/when he finds that you didn't will he talk more shit or admit he's wrong and apologize? I know what he'd normally do, but maybe he can be spurred into realizing that he misinterprets damn near everything everyone says into an attack/insult.