OMG

One of the standard mods on the BMW R bikes is to add an external fuel filter. The only thing to pay attention to is high pressure connecters and installing the filter in an out of the way place. Filters are just a few bucks purolator F20011. Now I'm thinking this will be a good winter project for the bird as well. With the BMW there are supply and return hoses easy to tap into, have not looked at the bird yet.

Years ago (as in the 70's) one of the things I invented was a heat treated driver to punch out rusted axles with a impact hammer. While the other mechanics were pounding away with their big hammers, I'd already have it out. So -- a driver and an air impact hammer.

All of that or just get a BMW

What they all said - and my bike does the same thing every time I've had more than six shots of Tequila.

???????????? GROUP BUY ??????? The daytime high is 55 and the night time is in the 30s I'm ready for some heat Snow on the Beartooth pass, so my favorite ride is done for the year.

I'm wondering about the wheel bearing failure. My guess is that there is an alignment problem within the wheel. Does the axle slide thru the wheel perfectly? Bearings just don't fail unless they are stressed, or not lubed. I do remember that Bmw had a problem with bearings in the late 70's when they changed brands. Try a different make. Take the bearings to a good auto parts place and ask for replacements, probably much less money. 85k zero problems oops - that's the Bmw 99 with 45k also zero problems But I'm thinking I'll have a look at the stator this winter.

McCulloch You are going to love them

let's see -- I have 85k on the RS and um well I really like the single side wheel set-up and no chain. I clean the wheel when it gets a new tire. That being said - the bird has the pro-oiler and I wouldn't be without it. My son rides the Hayabusa and it's fun to watch him wrestle with the spray and no center stand. And +1 on the adjustments, very few. Still the hassle of cleaning the shiny parts is a pain.

It's called the Audiovox ccs-100 While some may find it difficult, it's been installed on many motorcycles. Lots of write-ups on the web

I have the 99 with 60k no troubles so far. Is this something I should do as a preventative? Here in Mt. I could get stuck 300miles from nowhere, and that's just to go get a pizza. I'll have the bike apart for valve adj. throttle body sync. fork work with head bearing r&r, new sprocket, penske shock, electric cruise and some minor stuff. There is a Yamaha shop a ways away, or are they available on line?

Always use Sinclair premium - no ethanol I get 45 when I'm easy on the throttle. My son gets 35 with his honda - a CRX with a bigger than stock motor, WTF???

Got to wonder who thought up that name. Everyone knows it though.

Similar 97 here in Montana for 3200 Good luck But I agree - KEEP IT!!!!!! and give it to your grandkids

It's there for a good reason! Years ago I had a good friend that rode a triumph. At least he did till he went round a sweeper with his side stand down. Last ride for him.

Shucks - there is a 97 with 30k, a few extras for $4500 local to me. Send the money and I'll ride it to Ya. When the snow clears, hopefully by August. Global warming my ass!

76k on the RS and I haven't cleaned the chain yet! The bird has the Pro-oiler and I just keep adding synthetic oil to it and keep the rear wheel clean. The constant bath keeps the chain clean, and lasting a very long time.

Sucks when things strip - big time It should come out and be repaired with a Heli-coil. And to get things loose always heat the part the threads go into, and chill the bolt. The idea is to utilize thermal expansion and contraction to break the bond. Same idea goes for installing bearing races, heat the race - freeze the shaft or housing. A heat gun is much safer than a torch, and brake cleaner is great for chilling the bolt. I hope you don't regret not fixing it.

One last thing to be aware of is the "pipe runout". That is the allowable amount the fork tube (or pipe) can be out of true, or straight. Imagine if one or both of your tubes is not perfectly straight by .20 and then imagine that one tube is "bent" forward and one back. When you bolt everything up tight something is going to stick, or at least not slide smoothly. The best practice, in my experience, is to verify that the tubes are straight before assembly. Then after assembly but before installing springs, bolt the front assembly solid with the axle and verify that the whole assembly slides full travel without any resistance. If you do find sticky spots it means that the tubes are not perfectly parallel. Rotating the tubes sometimes will solve sticks. With luck they will be perfect, but when they are not the ride suffers and wear increases.

Awesome write up!! Only thing I could add (having been a factory mechanic for honda and bmw) is to not install the springs and add the oil till you have verified that the forks slide freely after all the bolts are tight. I know it can be a challenge, but sometimes the tubes aren't perfectly true and can cause a sticky action. Rotating one or both of the tubes can often resolve this.

I think I've found the best install for heated grips yet -- at least for me. I have big hands and standard bars have always been too small to grab comfortably, nope I'm not going to harley. What I have done is wrap bicycle cork wrap over grip heaters and wire as needed. The heat doesn't get lost to the bar and as a bonus, the grips can be shaped to fit my hand.

Another easy fix is moth balls-- just pour them down the holes