demon

I ride with a bunch of drag racers and the Shinco street/strip tire is among the best I've seen. The tread life is better than a Mickey Thompson and they hook up very good.

http://www.sportbikes.dhs.org/index.cfm?fu...icture_ID=52468 Worth a look :shock: :shock: http://www.sportbikes.dhs.org/index.cfm?fu...icture_ID=52470

Try a European car dealership (Jag or Porsche) for mounting the springs. I used to work on Jags and they run coil-over shocks about the same dia. of a bike shock. We used to have a special fixture for the hydraulic press that would compress the spring and slowly let the pressure off. Worked like a charm. Just my .02

I went from a Dunlop 205 to an Avon 45 on the front and I think the Avon doesn't come close to falling in like a dunlop. Have had the Avon for about 2000 miles and really like it. I think it grips good and is a good all around tire.

Boring: removing lots of material in the cylinder wall- like 2mm for increased displacement. Honing: scuffing the surface of the cylinder wall for ring break-in, very little material is removed. Plating the cylinder walls with nicasil (sp.?) is for aluminum linerless cylinders. If the cylinders weren't lined with the hard plating, they would wear out VERY fast. Steel liners do not require plating because the steel is hard enough to resist wear. Some bikes have aluminum cylinders to reduce weight like the current batch of supersport 600's and the light liter bikes. Class dismissed, go ride.

How much better are the Galfer greens if any than the blacks? I put the greens on my christmas list. I don't do any riding in the rain (unless I get caught out) and work the brakes pretty hard sometimes in the twisties. I don't really want the extra wear of HH pads on the rotors.

That's kind of what I was thinking, but just wanted to make sure. The stock fuel reg would be fine for a PC, and that's probably the way I'm going to go. Log in some dyno time and do some tuning.

Question for you fuel gurus. Could I install a fuel regulator off of a 2001 or later on my 99 to increase fuel flow without a power commander or would this give too much fuel at idle? I am currently running an AKRA 4-2-1 exhaust and no PC. The bike runs fine but a little more fuel would be nice. Just wondering if this would work cheap or if a PC would be a lot better for the money.

I thind ya hid th nale on th hed RALPHY. Does your head stick up any higher than the rest of ours? Your theoretical Physics problems do not make me shiver, tense up, or soil my little schoolboy pants. There's no argument that lighter wheels are better, I agree with you in fact. BUT, most of us here can't spend $1500 on some wheels when we have school supplies to buy. If you want to talk about thrust, do so in a way you can prove it to us morons on this board. Instead of theoretical gains in a vacuum chamber. There are cheaper and better ways to get more "thrust" out of your bike than a set of wheels. For the money spent on these wheels, a person could get a nitrous oxide system, lower gearing and a Power Commander. All these items are proven to increase your "thrust" for far less cash. I don't know about you but I live in the real world with real bills and real payments and can't afford a set of wheels right now. You stated that you were either concidering a new ecm or these wheels. Get the ecm, you'll be happier. Thank you, Your dumbass schoolyard redneck bully in the south (didn't no I cud spel did ya)

For the cost of these wheels, I could buy a very nice nitrous setup. You want to talk about bang for your buck, wheels are one of the best places to inprove your HANDLING, not acceleration. A $25 16 tooth front sprocket will help your acceleration much more than a set of $1000 wheels. Use your head. :twisted:

If I wanted gold wheels, I'd paint mine. The average rider won't notice a very big difference in the lighter wheels, but will notice the difference in his or her pocket.

I second that. I have a 99 with the AKRA full system with a Titanium can. Love this pipe.

I have the short stalk lockharts as well. Mine are aluminum finish with clear lenses. Looks sweet when you shorten up the rear fender.

I've got about 3,500 miles on the 220 on the back of the bird. The tread is 3/4 gone. I'll probably get about 1500 miles out of it and order an AVON for the rear. I don't really like it, it corners good, but when I get on the gas hard in first, it spins up real easy.

If you raise the rear of the bike, you are decreasing the rake angle and trail figures of the bike. I have mine raised up 7.5mm and it handles great. What Alpha was referring to is a completely redesigned rear shock linkage that offers an increased ride height and a different rising rate. I wouldn't mess with the tripple clamps, unless you want to upset the balance of the bike.

Hey Tim, you are two months ahead of time. It's October 9th down here in Tennessee. Just kiddin ya

Every couple of months, I go over my moving parts to make sure nothing has come loose. When you are breaking the sound barrier you can't hear anything.

I just put an aftermarket 16 tooth sprocket on mine. It makes a little more noise, but I am starting to like it. I paid $23 for it, JT sprocket through my local dealer. I won't go back to the 17 tooth spoocket for nothing.

I looked back through the forum and found some. CALCXX installed them on his bird. Very nice looking. It said he put the 2 3/4" risers on his bike. I wonder if he needed longer clutch and front brake lines? The overall idea of the adjustability is what I like. You can probably adjust them to suit anybody's clipon angle preferences.

I got to thinking about it a little more. I messed up. :oops: If my suspension really compresses, and the spacer moves forward too much and catches on the front of the centerstand crossbar..... :shock: Lets just say between the centerstand rising into the chain and the suspension binding on the centerstand I'd be fooooked. May look into making the duck shaped spacer this weekend and mounting it on the front dogbone mount.

When you replace the chain with a 16 tooth sprocket, do you need to get a 108 link chain rather than the 110 link chain that is stock??

Anyone use the Two Brothers Racing V3 Adjustable Riser bars? This looks like a good setup, adjustable for angle of drop. I was thinking about the 2 1/4" risers.

I mounted the spacer to the rear bolt and the lower bolt of the triangular piece on the shock linkage. as the linkage moves up and down, the spacer moves as well. The spacer is a flat piece of metal that is L shaped, and bent to go around the rear of the shock mount and turns down to contact the center bar of the centerstand. I rode it up the mountain very aggressively sunday and had no problems. Suspension action was not affected as far as I can tell. I thought this was a good idea because of ground clearance with the centerstand. As suspension moves up under a load, the centerstand rises a small amount as well. I'll try and get a digital camera and take a couple pics next weekend.

Well, I made a spacer defferently than the pic. I made one that attaches to the rear 2 bolts of the shock mount and has a piece that extends rearward to contact the center bar of the centerstand. It works good. This allowed me to raise the rear back up. Best of both worlds. The bird handles like it should again with a centerstand.

Out and down to the side? You want to look for rocks on the shoulder of the road or something? Out and up would work better if you are leaned over in a corner.