MontanaXX

7000... damn, that's a lot. My old Conti front had very little tread left at 3k or so, and was cupped to hell, and I think its a pretty hard tire. In which case, are you sure you had 42 in that tire when that happened? Did you check it after it started doing that? Mike I am not positive it had 42 when it blistered, I should have checked just for reference. I had checked the pressures when I left Montana 3 days prior, but not the day I departed Oregon.

7000... damn, that's a lot. My old Conti front had very little tread left at 3k or so, and was cupped to hell, and I think its a pretty hard tire.

Sorry no pics... I had the tire changed in Baker City and didn't have my camera along, wife was on vaca too and she got dibs on the camera. I was running 42 psi in that front tire, maybe too much pressure? I was operating on the assumption that more pressure meant less deflection and cooler running, but that is purely speculation on my part. I don't plan on running any more Contis "Roads", but I do have a "RoadAttack" on the rear and like it, but its a different series.

Got my 97 XX last Fall, it came with Conti Roads. I know no one likes them but I figured I would wear them out and get better tires after that. Anyway, on my recent trip through Oregon my front with about 3k miles on it blistered badly. Just to the left and right of the center bubbles formed that were about the size of a dime. Is this a problem with the Continental? Or does the chip seal road surface cause the tire to overheat? I am not fast in the corners, so its not from going in hot and I was only over 100mph a few times.

Good point, the little shop down the street probably sits on tires for months or years.

No it didn't Perhaps the wording is wrong, beeing a silly Scandinavian isn't easy. I ment that the bike didn't make me look like newbie on track on a Goldwing. That cracks me up! You know there is the guy in the eastern US that goes like hell on his Goldwing, even has a nickname of "Yellow Wolf".

You were in my state abusing the roads like that, you crazy bastard! Easy to do though especially anywhere east of the Rockies. You know I must admit I have never seen another Blackbird in the flesh, other than my own, I am so sheltered...lol.

I noticed a wobble in my 'Bird under decel from about 40-30mph on my recent trip to Utah from Montana. Bike came with Conti Roads, and the front one is about 3/4 gone. I figured my wobble was the front tire, but I did have my top box on, and at least 30lbs in it. Why does the top box contribute to the shakes?

Whew, for a while there I thought my memory and loose hold on mechanical factoids was failing... On a side note, I have to adjust the intakes on my 450 dirt bike about every 15 to 20 hours because they get tight. The exhausts don't move much after they set. I start with them at the loose end of spec and then adjust them again when it starts running crappy. I understand those valves in that single are just pounding there way into the seats. Glad my Blackbird isn't like that.

I thought if you had to choose between slightly tight or slightly loose that loose was better because you want that valve to close completely not be held partially open? I have read you can burn a valve seat from tight valves, is that true?

Nice. The longevity of these Blackbird valvetrains relieves me of much stress when it comes to touring.

So the 20 new hp wasn't realized, so you going to keep those new cans on your bike?

Paul, I am all about new technology for the exhaust, very interested. Short of giving away any secrets do you have any pictures you could post of this system?

I'm thinking I should have ordered the R1 R/R, no biggie. Yes University Motors rocks, I love those guys. My original R/R (one on the left) was fine, but I was concerned 49K miles) so I ordered the new one. I installed the new one and carry the original one as a spare. That is my plan too. My original isn't fired, but I am installing the R1 rect. and will carry the original around just in case. Although I think once you upgrade it should be good to go.

I am in the market for riding pants currently, been shopping them. Glad to see this link for newenough. I need a pant for 50 degrees and above, and want waterproof, but all the good pants look like snow gear to me. I spend enough time in snow gear to not want to wear them all summer too :icon_snooty:

I don't know about that, you look pretty skinny in your avatar...

I would guess that you have more bushing wear in the dirty side, but no biggie. You should see the sludge that comes out of my dirt bike forks...

The JCW stuff is crap, I agree. Thanks for the details on the mounting setup. I think I will be pulling the mounts off my ole FJ, then I'll post them over at fj1100.com and enjoy the bidding war!

Great photo, I saved it in my collection. Why don't you think the JCW copies will fit the Givi racks? Do you know someone who has tried? I am interested because I am selling my FJ1200 and its got Givis on it. The new owner doesn't want to pay me extra for the bags but he wants the mounts and the option of buying the JCW bags later . If the JCW bags don't fit the WingRack2, then hell I am pulling the Givi mounts off the FJ...

I went to the site and read the reviews, people who bought them seem to think they are a good value. Some gripes about the mounting system, but hey they are less the half the cost of the Givis, and they throw in the "mounting plate". One reviewer said those bags fit right on the Givi brand mounts...

Right on, it is a great winter bike project

You forgot the CHEAP part So true. I already own the forks, the black paint, and the masking tape. Plus I have some old lumber tarps I can use to block the living room wall from overspray. I'll just have to move the Christmas tree.

Easy mod that looks great. I may have to do the same.

Nice work. So are you building custom mounts because the wing rack is so ugly or another reason?

I bought a used '97 XX a few months ago with 22k miles on the clock. After reading here I figured I would be installing the R1 rectifier before I embarked on any trips next Spring. Well I have my rear bodywork off this week and noticed that my R/R is gray and finned like the one shown in this picture that I took from the how to page. So is it safe to assume that all the stock R/Rs on 1997 models looked like the small non-finned unit on the left? [And that mine has already been replaced.] I am thinking that maybe the stock R/R doesn't last 22k miles or 9 years anyway, so they had to replace it... Thanks. [attachmentid=4596]