Steve

I'll "third" CBRBearing. Very informative, happy to help, knowledgeable, great prices too! I used them when buying tapered bearings for my ST1100, wheel bearings for my ST1100, and lastly for bearings for my tire balancer. Highly recommend them! Steve

Avon AV45/46 here for tires... love them! Just installed my second set purchased from swmototires.com for @$226 arrived in a couple days. This is my 5 set of tires from them. Bags - I went with B-Bags imported by Corbin (no, not beetle bags). I also love this set-up. A little on the pricey side but the quality is outstanding! Steve

PN# 51490-MZ1-305 price $18.51 each, recommend doing both at once. Don't forget some fork oil too! Make sure you check the fork tubes very well for imperfections otheriwse you'll be doing this repair again really soon. Take them out with Krokus (spelling?) cloth ... may not be a bad idea to polish them with some Mother's polish and lastly spray them down with WD40 before rides... Steve

S.O.P. for changing/ replacing fork seals is you carefully check the fork tube for any imperfections (ie pits, burs, etc) and smooth out with Krokus (spelling?) before you reassemble. As for having a shop do this - I would highly recommend either doing it yourself or watching carefully as it's very rare that a shop will check the tubes, torque the bolts properly, or pay attention when refilling the oil to get the proper "distance" measurement for the fork oil but they will opt for the easier volume method (this is NOT accurate). The whole process takes about 4 hours to do it right and is not hard at all. steve

Just blew one of mine out a few weeks ago and replaced it myself. First the sign: Oil seepage above the seal on either side, this can range from a little oil to a complete blow out usually caused by either too much oil or dirt stuck to the fork tube then destroys the seal. Everytime you wash the bike or take trips wipe down the fork tube and this will help a lot! Often times they will go by themselves after @15-25K miles, no big thing. The repair: you should do both sides as you will already have it apart. The repair takes about 4 hours from start to finish and is very straight forward requiring only one small tool (the long allen wrnech that fits through the axle hole up to the 6mm screw - this will also have to be properly torqued back. You can easily cut an allen wrench and use that instead with a 6mm small socket wrench). The cost: 4 hours, two seals at about @$18.51 each from Ron Ayers, and some fork oil @ $10 as one quart does it all. Steve If you want a write up on how it's done let me know

Ty this website for the products and techniques, found them quite helpful! www.carcareonline.com I've had the same problem with my bikes when using a tankbag. Since the first time I've ben placing a cotton diaper under the tankbag and make sure it's snug on the bike so as not to allow it to move much. When I do get a wear on the paint, or light scratches I like to use "3M Hand glaze" then PS21S then some good wax (I still rpeer Carnuba). Looks better than new! Steve

alright guys, it's time for a new chain, old one is strectched out. Should what to get? I don't mind spending a couple extra bucks IF one is actually goin to last longer than another. DID 530 ZVM? I will probably get this from PartsMonster as I like to support our Bird-Brothers... but teh website shows several choices. Also, IF I get the DID ZVM, are there any tools needed to make this thing work? It states 120 links "cut to length"... TIA Steve

My set of avons from www.swmototires.com were $226.90 (front $99.95, rear $ 126.95 w/ free shipping on a set) shipped to my door in 3 days. Take a look at their approval in previous postings. Got 6K miles on the rear (shot!) and the front looks like brand new with only some side scuffing Mounting my tires (third set) in one hour... gotta go have some fun tonight! Steve

I'll be doing the same work this evening: Suspend the bike up (using tie-downs from the ceiling, a jack form underneath (make sure the protect the oil pan by using a piece of wood or plastic hockey puck, etc). I use a jack to get it up then slide a 4x4 underneath to keep the bike propped up. Remove the handlebar clip-ons and tie up to they don't hang there and get air bubbles in the system or possibly leak fluid on your tank or ding it. Remove front fender Remove all braking equipment from forks Loosen front axle pinch bolts Loosen axle and remove front wheel (be VERY careful not to lay it down directly on the rotor as this will cause warping) Loosen pinch bolts in triple clamp holding the forks in and the forks should slide down easily. Make sure to examine the fork tubes for ANY pits or burs prior to reassembly. It's not a bad idea to run some crokus cloth then Mother's polish over them to make sure there celan and smooth. When assmebling make sure to torque everything to proper specs. Hope this helps some... Steve

It's covered pretty well with the exception of two things: First and most importantly COVER anything/ everything as the fluid will eat any painted surface. Secondly keep a water bottle full of water in case you spill anything anywhere. I have a mity-vac but usually don't use it on stuff like that. It's an easy tw-person job to do the brakes and clutch fluid. It does take about two small bottles to do it all. Any left over dispose of properly as it doesn't stay well on a shelf and it's certainly cheap enough to buy fresh stuff when needed. All said, it's about a two to three beer job betwen the two of you, ain't no big thang. Steve

Plugs, oil and filter, lube that chain and bring the lube with you. Make sure those tires are sound as I just took a 1K mile trip thinking mine had plenty of miles left on them and they declined rapidly on the way. Enjoy!

Wal-mart filter @ $2, Honda Stealer filter runs about $15 locally. As much as Wal-mart caters to the genetically difficiant I'll blow $10 and get 5 so I don't have to face either the customers or cheap help in the near future. Steve

I switch all my vehicles over to Mobil 1 about a year ago after hearing such a great buzz about it. Since using it I've noticed Zero diference but will continue to use it. I had also heard of the histeria about the new "Super Syn" causing clutch plate problems but NO ONE has documented such problems. This was a hype that traveled along without merit. In my bikes I've switched to 15w-50 and change it out every 5K miles (makes it easy to remember to change it with the odometer reads 5 or 10K - no need to write it down and record anymore). As I have said to those I know - I have yet to hear of a single oil-related breakdown regardless of oil with the except of an in-law who never changed her oil for many years. In my Acura I ran Castrol 20-50 dino oil and have 275K on the original engine and it's still going strong! I change that one every 5K. Bottom line - I have read many tests that have shown Mobil one to be at elast as good as the others and better than most. I change it every 5K more so for piece of mind than anything else. You will be fine running Super-Syn (which is the new formula as of one year ago) in spite of the facctless rumors flating around, this is verified by many Goldwings, ST1100's and other bikes who run Mobil1 15w-50. Hope this helps some Steve

I have both, a '91 ST1100 and a 2001 Bird. They are completely different beasts. The ST1100 is incredibly comfortable and very passnger friendly. The Bird is , in my humble opinion, the finest engineered bike ever made. Here are some of teh high's and low's: ST - Reliability. It's a Honda, nuff said there. It'll easily go 200K if you change the oil regularly. great gas mileage, very comfortable for both driver and passenger. Lots of luggage room for trips. Can be tuned to handle well. This is a wonderful touring bike. Long range per tank (@ 250 miles at freeway speeds per fill-up) Bird - I believe this to be the finest engineered bike available at any cost. The power is intoxicating (you be let down by other bikes after ths one!). Very comfortable for taller riders (like myself) for distance although not as comfortable as the ST. fairly rare so it's an eye-catcher (especially in the faster RED color). Zero vibration as the counter balancers really work. brakes instantly with little worry. Very quiet even without earplugs and stock windscreen. Hope this helps some... Steve

I run and LOVE my Azaro's BUT wy try to save a penny on a racetrack? Isn't a skin graph and purchasing new plastic more expensive than proper race tires? If it's worth hitting the track it's worth doing it right with teh right gear and tires, otherwise in trying to save a couple bucks you are putting yourself and bike at risk... My .02 worth

Fork oil... it depends on how you aggressively you ride. If you ride like I do, fairly aggressively and put about 12K per year then do it every year as it breaks down quickly. REcently I tried the Bel-Ray racing fluid and swear by that stuff (bought from Ron Ayers). Chains should be oiled every 500 miles (cleaned if possible) and adjusted while the bike is either on it's side stand or with rider weight on it... most adjust it while on the center stand making it too tight thus wears much quicker. Food for thought... Steve

Try this website - it should answer all of your questions without bias... http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=5 I use the 3M hand glaze and a great Carnuba wax. When I wash it I only use soap about twice a year as this will always remove any wax you laid down previously. Read what they say...

My two recommendations: #1 - Radar detector!!! Spend the cash now. Cry once but get this!!! Decide for yourself how you want to make this so you can hear it, don't count on purely relying on visual alerts as it'll let you down. #2 - a Camel back to keep hydrated. As for mods, I've had mine a year now (6K miles) and haven't done any. I bought a "Thottlemeister" but have not installed it. I may before my Lake Tahoe trip in May but that's it. Pipes might sound cool but it alerts LEO's as well... I prefer to be as stealthy as possible. The stock rear shock seems fine for now and the bars suit me well. I also stuck with the stock saddle with no ill effects, my ass is prety happy even during 7 hour rides. As siad prior, get some saddle time before you spend needless cash simply to spend it... in fact give me your money that you would have spent on needless stuff if it makes you feel better... my liver is evil and it must be punished - your money will help this fight! Hope this helps some Steve 2001 Red Blackbird (Power is totally addicting!) 1991 ST1100 (still love this bike!)

The hardest part for me was finding a 12mm allen wrench. The actual Head bearings are simply with a hammer and screwdriver. Make sure you pack them well with grease though. Steve

There are many things that could be your problem: Tires were not balanced properly- I had Avons mounted onto my Bird then after making my own balancing stand found they weren't close to being balanced, this was the case with both a local "Schmedley" and also the local Honda "stealer". They were WAY off, so much so that I was getting a bad shake at anything over about 90 mph. I watch most shops simply spin them once then add weight and hand them to you without closely checking their weight amount or position, this is shitty work! Tires were not mounted right- This is common accurane with any make/ model of tire. This can easily be checked by spinning the tires and looking closely to see if there is anything more than a 1/32" difference at the bead area. If they're not straight balancing this won't help. Warped Rotor - Simply laying the wheel on it's side has enough pressure to warp your rotor. Be damn careful. Check this also by spinning your tire adn watching the rotor. IF bent - these can usually be straightened fairly inexpensively. Bad tire - this was not unheard of with some previous models by Avon but not with the 45/46 models. Highly unlikely but may happen. Avon is excellent in standing behind their tires as stated by Nik. Head bearings - Too tight, too loose, not lubed right, or worn out from neglect will all add to your problem. I have a set of the Avons on both my Bird and ST1100 and LOVE them! Must people get a wobble when first mounted but this subsides afer about 10 mph so I doubt this is your issue. Check the easiy stuff first and make sure you're running about 40 PSI in them. My guess is it's something simple and NOT the tires themsleves but constant riding on them with a problem will damage them... My buddy and I now have a tire station (Harbor freight for $60) in his garage and I made a balancer (seen on the internet and bult for about $10) so we do our tires ourselves now. No more shotty work and rim scratches! Steve

Timely question - Last weekend my buddy and I did 3 pairs of tire changings ourselves. He bought a great set-up from Harbor-Frieght for $60 total ($39 for the main unit and $20 for the motorcycle top piece) , this thing worked awesome! Breaking the bead was a snap. First time took us about 3 hours, now it's about an hour from start to finish. I have been ordering my tires from swmototires.com for a few years now and having the dealers expertly install beautiful deep scratches into my new rims for sometime now for anywhere from $15 - $30 per tire. Tired of this incompetence he opted to buy to changer and we decided to tackle it last weekend ourselves. Another thing I noticed. When pushing over 120 mph, the Bird was getting a front wheel shake. No surprise to me was that the tire/wheel was not properly balanced by the last place who installed them. I made a balancer, as per a website we pulled down, that proved the previous work to be very faulty, once I re-did them it's as smooth as glass. How many times have you seen the dealers check their work to make sure they are balanced right or do they simply check for a heavy spot, add weight then hand them over to you before checking again? The balancer cost me 1-2x4, 6 nails, and a couple front wheel bearings (I use the front axle for both wheels to spin on...). Now I know the work to be done right every 6 months (should be seeing about 6500 miles of spirited fun!). Steve

It sounds like your battery. Check this with a voltmeter as it should read very close to 13 volts with no load. IF it is the battery DO NOT simply install one and ride with it as this will not allow the battery to properly charge. Put it on a charger for at least one full day prior to th bike to attain maximum capacity. Believe me this makes a significant difference. Second. Get yourself a battery tender. This is a trickle charger that maitains your battery and draws very little curent from your house. There are several brands and types - BMW, Daltrans, and many others. I opted for the "Battery Tender" from DalTrans from tucmoto.com which ran me $40. I ride both bikes but still make sure that I have it on either bike. In the last few days my car was giving me grief too and this charger helped. The size is only about 4"x3"x3". Lastly, if your bike is more than about 3 years old go through each electrical connector and spray it out with electrical contact cleaner, got mine form Home Depot for about $4. This will really reduce the resistance and make sure you have good connections, do not use grease or oils as they will attract dirt. This should take only a few minutes to do the whole bike.

I opt to verify using my GPS. My Boxster was 10% high (which fell into Porsches range of accetable accuracy, not mine), my ST1100 is about the standard 7% high in its ead but it gets closer to accurate at higher speeds. I have yet to check the blackbird with my GPS but the local city governemnt was very kind and installed a radar posting station right by a friends house just for us sportbike riders who wish to see how fast we can go and correctly verify our speeds... based on that (whcih has corresponded with my GPS thus far) my bird (all stock) is also about 8% high in its read. Steve

D) Hookers Steve

Alright, so where does one purchase Kerosene? I have been told that "Red" label Deisel fuel is Kerosene, as is JP4... is this the case? I hope to cleaning my chain well (and of course lube it well with Blue label PJ lube). I have gone to a few stores looking specifically for Kerosene with no avail. Doing my semi-annual bike detail as preparation for the next long riding season. Also, does anyone know where I can purchase the radiator cap at a reasonable price? I had seen where someone went to a Honda car dealership fdound it there but I need to find a part number as Honda didn't kow what I was talking about this morning. The one on my '91 ST1100 is showing cracks in the rubber, and Lord knows - you never want to see "cracks in your rubber!" Thanks in advance, Steve 2001 Red Blackbird