R1000

Damn it, you have almost talked me into a turbo kit :-) I'll email efrracing and ask what they can offer. The installation also looks very clean on yor bike ! Thanks for the info !

Interesting... Which stage is it and what was the cost? Was it a comlete bolt on kit? Was there a thicker head gasket included etc.

I believe you . Is it something you have mocked up yourself or is it a complete bought kit?

Done !

Agree, I've fixed broken plastic parts many times by the use of a soldering iron. I use to reinforce the broken section by pieces of steel wires that are melted down across the crack on the backside. If the crack is clean and the parts are fitted well together before soldering from the backside, the repair will be fairly good and repainting may be unnecessary.

Is any of you using a turbo assisted bird on a daily basis? What are your findings, is it something that you can recommend, or is it not worth the effort and cost involved? My experience from the car side is that a turbo is next to a must thing. I’m driving a Volvo 60 T5 that is chipped from stock 250 to 300 hp and that was a real good investment on the play account. The performance is far beoynd the classic Chevy SB engines that I used when the hair was thicker... I’m still driving the same Volvo S60 after almost 6 years and have no plans to change for long. The upgrade was followed up by adjustable shocks that handles much better than the worn stockers. In case it would have been a 140 hp base model it would have been replaced years ago, and that would have cost much more over these years. In case turbo works as good on a motorcycle it may be a good idea to think more about this. I have some common tech knowledge and tools etc. and a garage to work in. Still, if it is a high-risk application and cost a lot I’ll pass since I appreciate the bike in its current condition.

Impressing vehicle and a good picture

I believe it will be very difficult to take out a ZX14 or a Busa on a straight flat out even with some serious mods on the bird, unless you are using a turbo or nitrous. Still, an old Honda CB 750 -72 can easily take them out on any severe twisty road if the driver is more capable :-) My bird is currently modified with a reworked head and aftermarket cams etc. It pulls more than 150 honest rwhp on the wheel, which in combination with a 16/46-sprocket set makes it quite strong. I have surprised more than one owner of modern sport bikes when they try to overtake after a curve on track and find out the heavy bastard in front pulls stronger and leave them behind. The cost to make the bird all out stronger than a ZX14R or a Busa will be higher than trading in the bird and buy a used ZX14R or a Busa. You also have to modify the chassi on the bird to cope with the higher power level. The bird engine is very reliable in stock condition and there is no need for blueprinting to increase reliability unless you are looking for more 160+ rwhp. The most cost effective mods to improve performance are adding a full 4-2-1 system and change sprockets. To climb up on the next level, more than 150 rwhp, you need head work and other cams which will add another $1500, or more. The pic below is a dyno curve of my bird. The third thin curve on top is the engine in current condition. One can see that it has a healthy low and mid range that makes the bike very strong on twisty roads and track days.

Just removing the carbon will not do any good. If it is a hard thin and dry carbon layer it is just sound. In case it is a thick and greasy layer the cause need to be fixed, e.g. worn piston/rings/bores and worn valve guides. I get the impression that a used engine in good condition may be the best option. If the engine is quite worn and needs a renovation it is better to replace it. A quick and dirty fix like replacing valve seals is a waist of money. A good reason to make a complete renovation would be if the engine is unique, e.g. was the stock engine for a classic car, which is probably not the case with a small block Firebird -89.

14/46 vs. 17/45. Will you mainly use the bikes for slow speed wheelies ?

http://www.carbtune.com/

The pilot screws are badly located under the carb in center of each carb towards the intake rubber. I adjusted mine when the carbs were removed for change of cylinder head. I just checked in the Haynes manual and they say it it possible with a flexible screwdriver that is angled at the end. Perhaps a cheap screwdriver with an angled gear at end will do the job. My 3D memory is not good enough to be sure.

The engine is overjetted stock so you will not kill the engine at full power. In case you find that the engine hesitates on mid range you can shim up the nedles with a M3 flatwasher. Any problems on low rpm should be possible to cure by opening the pilot screws 3 turns from bottom position. If the engines starts to misfire at max load due to a lean condition it is time to watch up and put in larger main jets. I don't think this will happen though. Let's hear what other will say to.

Interesting. My friend has a CBR1000RR and Elka apparently makes a shock for that bike. He says it's a "piggy back, two-way system"; I don't know what that means. Two-way means adjustable compression and rebound. The piggy back means the the nitrogen reservoir is bolted to the shock and is not a separate unit. Three-way includes double compression settings (low/high speed)

I want to be meantioned when you rewrite the land speed record diary

Thanks, interesting to hear that the system was/is actually used

It seems there is finally a solution for carbed bikes that provides the perfect air-to-fuel ratio, all the time. I can’t use it since it would make my bike too powerful considering the expensive mods that are already done . Don't make the same mistake as me and; port the head, change cams etc. to increase power, which is just a waist of money when there are better solutions. http://www.thunderproducts.com/dial_a_jet_techpaper.htm Anyone brave enough to admit using this kit ?

I got a MSD ignition box from a guy many years ago that he asked me to repair if possible. I cutted the rivets on the bottom plate and found it was totally filled with epoxy, it was a digital marine version....I returned the box with the comment that it was not possible to repair. I couple of months later the guy called and said he had removed all epoxy, he had been working on it during many evenings with a heat gun and hand tools. The guy was a fin and they don't seem to give up easy. I said OK, send me the unit and I'll fix it for you if there still are parts in it that are not mechanically damaged after your hard work...One or two components that was vertically mounted on the PC-board was broken but those were just to replace. I also replaced a couple of transistors in the coil driver circuitry and then it worked as new. I secured the heavier components with silicone and returned the unit to a very happy guy. I even did it for free since he had done an incredibly work himself, and is was a cheap commercial since I knew the story would spread quick as a fire between racers. I wouldn't recommend this work to anyone and these days I don’t repair such stuff other than my own equipments. It is nicer to use the time off work to ride.

You only need a gear indicator if you are; a girl, have no engine-ear at all or are a complete newbie Seriously, we have all tested to find another gear (that doesn't exist) or been driven on 5th on a freeway... After some time, correct gear selection becomes second nature and you don’t need an indicator at all.

Yes you will access the fuel drain screws on bottom/side of carbs after removing the side fairings. I do the same.

My bike has 16/46 sprockets and 155+ rwhp (uncorrected). It has a slight tendency to lift the front wheel on 3rd but I don't believe it will make an honest wheelie on 3rd without the help from a road bump. I guess the pro’s can wheelie on any gear but then the bike has to be raised initially on 1st or maybe 2nd gear.

Are -02 birds and newer power restricted on 1st gear? I've read it somewhere and wonder if this is correct. I believe it is incorrect.

The new springs puts more pressure on the hydrualic system. Try to put in new oil in the clutch system and bleed it carefully.

If the signal for throttle position is the same it should be possible. Some info on http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/fuelupgrade.htm However, I would make it easy and go for the XX version of PCIII USB.

Good to know that the battery can last for a decade so one doesn’t worry to soon. I would however replace a nine-year-old battery since a failure is inconvenient and can take out the R/R and stator.