haWHYnXX

No prob on the pics. I'm at work now but will snap some pics this evening and post. Will show some close ups of the linkage. I was concerned with the linkage hookup also, but if you analyze closely what is happening during acceleration, you can minimize the amount of ball chain drop by cutting the ball chain to actual need. Then make sure the path of drop is clear in all directions (due to bike lean). I think what was happening is that the ball chain was too long and would get tangled up in plumbing during accel, consequently holding the throttle open unexpectedly .

I currently have the tank off mine and can take/post a few more pics if wanted. I also have the servo under my tank above the trans.

+1 Much faster. I got one from my local Cycle Gear made for Honda. Plug and Play.

Yeah, from Pro-Oiler install guide: And I think butt whacking is good at any time!!!

When I first installed mine, it would not pump either. After rechecking, I realized I wired it wrong. That's when I talked to Pablo at Pro-Oiler. One of his suggestions was to whack the pump with the butt end of a screwdriver (don't try to kill it, but not too lightly). This in conjunction with the WD-40 lube you already mentioned. Also, try unplugging the oil line at the sprocket nozzle and see if it will prime. If it does, you'll need to clean all the crap out of the nozzle. Grease and grime could be plugging it up there. Good luck - if nothing else works, email Pablo at Pro-Oiler. He's very responsive.

IIRC, the rims are chrome. If so, I'm interested.

Noreen is definitely looking for these. As before, will PM tonight after confirmation.

Tim, I think Noreen has been looking for one - so dibbs... Will find out tonight for sure.

I've got some pictures here.

I found that after installing the accumulator, throttle response is much better and faster enabling me to get a good speed match in short order. Like Rich, I also use the TM a lot in the city and the CC for longer slabbing.

And maybe I could entice you guys out of the chrome rims... Keith - sorry to hear about your off. Heal up bro. I'm feeling kinda lucky "only" to have broken a collarbone. (And a bike)

Only one wall.

Pick a spot, hold the spool up, mark it, then drill and tap. Measure for the other side and you're good. Just make sure it's low enough that you'll lift the tire off the ground with your stand. If I were to do it again, I'd probably locate it a little further down but don't go further back or the stand will get in the way of the axle nut. BTW, this spot works with an 8mm shim. Also used red loctite when installing. Looks like Jeff and mine are in the same place:

Hi Philip - how's it going? Glad you like my setup, but it's not completely waterproof. I did what Mike did with the CCS-100 and took it apart and siliconed the interior and around the buttons, and the FirstGear heated gear switch is a surface-mounted rheostat that's silicone encased waterproof from the manufacturer. One of the 4 switches is the standard 2 position rocker for the Symtec heated grips and the other 3 switches are standard round rocker switches that I bought from Autozone - however they have been through 2 Seattle winters and no problems yet. I ride year round here and the bike sees plenty of rain. If you want to see waterproof switching ask Chris (02XXCA) for a pic of his setup. I believe they are standard toggle switches with the rubber casings screwed over the top of them. If I ever redo mine, I'd probably change over to that setup. The bike is torn down at the moment so I can't snap a pic and I don't have any clear closeups of the switches but you can see what it's like with these two pics:

How MacGyver of you!

Sorry brother - my 2000 does not have that middle plug... Good luck.

You do realize that you can use that detector as a voltmeter? Had the Datel first - but also like the bigger readout. So where did you mount the coffee maker?

+1 on the Datel. Mounted mine on top of the instrument cluster next to the radar detector:

+1 I actually drilled a hole on both sides of center figuring that if the tire still hit the undertail, it wouldn't break the ziptie. I was able to pull the front end of the undertail up about 3/4" - no more rubbing.

Can't get the really good deals anymore since AutoZone closed them out. Schmucks has 'em for about $110.

+1 On mine I have 1 tapped vacuum line going into the canister through a 1-way check valve, and a second line going from the canister to the CCS. I'm still getting that same #11 FI fault code though (like at the WCB), and not positive it's not related to this CC install. Chris seems to think it has to do with the Pro-oiler since that is tapped to the VSS, but it seems to be more RPM related than speed related. Enough of MY canister weirdness - good luck with yours. I'm pretty sure though that if you don't have a check valve in there, that's the culprit.

I originally replaced mine with a single LED bulb. It was brighter than stock, but wanted it a little brighter. Now I've got the 4LED cluster and looks great. Gives the dash a bluish glow instead of the tired old yellow tinge.

Actually, I believe they share a common bulb. As Stan says, replace them all when in there. There are only 4 in there.

Stator covers are interchangeable.

I know the part numbers differ from each other, but does anyone know if 97-98 stator covers fit 99--and up engines?