JasonW

Brian, While I agree with the others that the Yosh systems sound nice, don't limit yourself to that one manufacturer based only on the fact that you can retain your centerstand with it. I believe most full systems provide the clearance for your centerstand, but don't necessarily provide a stop for it. I can't guarantee that all systems will allow you to keep it, but in my experiences, most will. That being said, JRed is working on a stop that will solve the problem if you should decide to go with another manufacturer. http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...t=20727&start=0 I don't know when it will finally come to fruition, but at least it's in the works.

Yeah, what Tim said. The signals from the 600rr are only about 1/2" shorter and they have slightly different connectors on them. However, if you want a pair, PM me your address and they're yours.

I've always used compressed air. No messy stuff to deal with and no waiting for stuff to dry/evaporate.

Schaweeet! :thumbsup: How old are they? The early BST's were constructed poorly where the spokes meet the rim as seen in the pics of that Ducati that had a set come apart on him at the track. They took care of the problem, but I'm sure there are a few of the older sets still floating around if they all haven't self-destructed by now. Just be sure to inspect them closely in that area............I'd hate to see something bad happen to you.

Good points, Todd. I've always wondered myself, since I hear both sides all the time.

My apologies...........I haven't tried the K&N yet myself, but received one for free from another member who encountered the exact same symptoms that you are describing. Stock bike except for the K&N. Once he put the stock filter back in, all was good so he gave me the K&N. I haven't tried it yet myself, so I'm not speaking from direct experience. I am interested to see what happens when you swap them back out, though. Keep us posted!

Nope, nothing goes on that little nipple-looking thing that is at the very bottom pointing downward. The vacuum line goes on the diaphragm nipple that faces toward the tank. The stumble is definately from the K&N and you'd be really lucky if a bike shop would swap the jets for free. Before you rejet, determine if you're going to keep the stock exhaust forever or go to a 4-2-1 since now would be the time to change if you're going to do it. If you're going to swap later, I would set the K&N aside and put a stock filter back in.

Randy, I remember when you put that link on, and then when it snapped shortly after. :shock: If I remember correctly, it was some home-made job that a guy was selling out of his garage, wasn't it? The Schnitz one looks to be constructed a lot better.

Like I said, let us know how that works out for ya!

That's funny.........I was about to mention your name, but decided to leave it be.

7 ftlbs and you need to tighten the outer 2 that are closest to the intake side first. Be sure to let us know how that works for ya. :wink:

Yeah, I'm real curious as to the outcome of this one. :twisted: http://cbr.geckobox.net/forum/viewtopic.ph...t=20026&start=0

ROTF! Oh how I wish I lived closer. :twisted: So that's all you've got to say? What, no threats? You must have forgotten your shot today......or did you realize that if you're looking to lower your seat because you can't reach the peddles that you're not going to intimidate too many folks here?

Whaoahh.........lemme guess......'roid rage? :shock: That can get you in trouble real quick. [-X Jeremy, To save you some grief, I think he means Radiator fluid. :wink: But don't listen to me......I'm "middle aged over the hill". :devilnangel: This HAS to be the funniest thread I've read..... EVER.

Finally got a call back. He took the long way home. He was in a hurry and my shorthand isn't so good, so here's what I gathered.......sorry if it doesn't work exactly as described. Apparently, you need to hold the "select" button with the key off, then turn the key on while continuing to hold select. This will get you into the mode that changes the gauge backlight display. Hit select again and it should take you to the light settings: flash-steady-off (?) Hit select one more time and it is where you adjust the shift points. Use the reset button to scroll through the preset shift points until the desired one is reached. Apparently the needle on the tach will rise as well. One more press of the select button will allow you to adjust the brightness of the light. Then hit select again and you're done. So basically use "select" to get you through the modes and then use "reset" to navigate within that mode. It's a pretty nice setup. I wish the XX had it.

Ah crap.....I wish I would have seen this thread before I went riding today. A good friend showed up with his brand spanking new Raven edition at noon and I just got back. He just picked it up yesterday so we had to go break it in. I'm sure he knows how since he was just bragging about how it was programable and all.........and how the clock has a timer............and how light the bike is..............and how much HP.................. I just left a message for him. He should be rolling up his driveway any minute now. Stay tuned.

Thanks guys. Chris, I didn't powdercoat the lock.....I'm way too cheap and lazy for that. I own a signshop so I just used materials I keep around. The lock was covered with matte black pressure sensitive adhesive vinyl also commonly refered to as "sticker material". I just covered the entire thing, then carefully cut out the "door" for the key and then trimmed around where the lock will rotate and of course, trimmed around the outside perimeter. It's held up better than I thought it would considering I find the lock blindly when I lift the seat. It's lasted for 3 years so far and looks as good as it did on day 1. The flush mounts are Lockhart Phillips part # 122-9701. This number is for the smoke finish (and I darkened them even more when I did my front signal lenses), but you can get them in clear or amber as well. I did have to make spacers in order for them to stick out far enough. I've seen others use the micro short stalk signals as well. For the tail light, I cut 2 elipses out of "sticker material" to use as a mask, then painted the rest of the lens black. I'm a stickler for details so I even removed the little raised letters along the bottom so that the lens face is completely smooth before painting. The "CBR XX" is just the stock red reflector that is covered in the same matte black vinyl as used on the lock with a chrome sticker on top. What!?! OMG, how embarassing. :oops: :wink: J/K....Of course I did it on purpose........ It looks much cleaner that way, don't ya think?

Mine is a carbed model, but you could do something similar. I left my fender on and just trimmed it after removing the tag light and moving the plate up. I also blacked out the keyhole, modified the rear reflector, and modified the tail light. The plate is illuminated by a single LED inside the tail light lens that shines through a small cutout in the bottom that I sealed with a piece of clear plexiglas. The plate is held in place by 3M VHB tape and the bolt holes are covered with small circular pieces of reflective vinyl tape. The turn signals are aftermarket (LP) flush mounts located inside the tail cowl side vents. Here's another 4000 words.............

Excellent work, MZ! :allhail: :allhail: :clap: :clap: :thumbsup:

Wow, what happened here? :shock: Botox, is that you, Ralphie? :roll: Enough said. I'm still with Tim on this one, but more importantly............ Squareman, did you ever figure out what it was?

:shock: If you don't snug up the adjusters, your bike will fall over to the right. :poke: I'm with Tim on this one. The pressure required to "pinch" the wheel in place to keep it from moving would demolish the wheel bearings in a hurry. The adjusters do come into play in this as I've seen it firsthand. It all works as a system.

What? :wink:

I really appreciate that, but I'm sure I'll be outbid soon by someone whether they're from this board or not. I only made a small initial bid and not my max....... I usually wait until the end for that. :twisted: It's not like I really need them, but would certainly take them for cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT I wont bid if you want them bro! Bidder #1 is me.........was just hoping to get them cheap, but won't cry if I get outbid. GimPin could make it up to me by checking out the turbo bike in Littleton for me. :wink:

I know you got a bunch of new tools, but you don't have to use all of them just to change the oil. :stickpoke: Seriously though, I don't want this to sound at all preachy or condescending, but ........ One very important thing to remember about doing what you're about to do, is that it takes some finesse. What you described about your "construction attitude" will absolutely not work when it comes to the mechanics of a motorcycle. Obviously it's not a life or death matter regarding a header bolt, but many of the parts you're going to deal with are. I know you know that, and it's obvious that you want to do things right by yourself. I just want to emphasize it since it seems appropriate. That being said, a tapered tap will probably be the easiest for this job, but remember that with a taper, it's really easy to get it going in crooked. It's really easy to cut new threads (or tear out the old ones) if it isn't straight. You'll know by how much (or little) it gives resistance if you've got it straight..........this is where the finesse part comes in. You've got to feel if it's in straight (like getting a bolt started into a hole), while cutting the messed up threads. Kind of hard to explain......but it takes a little practice and patience. You said that you didn't get too far in when it all went to shit, so you'll only have resistance where the threads are fucked. Daryl has a good point about cheap taps IF you are putting brand new threads in. In your case it shouldn't take much of anything to clean up the threads. If the threads on the stud are buggered, you can run a die over it (again, being very careful), or just replace them. Be careful ........the way this oil change has been going so far, removing the head will be the next step if you're not. Good luck! Edited to add- Excellent post trurotor!.....that's what I was trying to say in so many words.......I was obviously typing at the same time.