Zero Knievel

As you probably know, RAM mounts does not make a very effective RAM mount for the center hole on a CBR1100XX. Odd since it's such a prime place to put one for a camera/GPS mount. Well, this thread shows how to do it, but to keep this in one place, here's a recap. A big THANK YOU to RichardCranium for posting the original thread. Off all of these parts, I found the 12 mm flange nut is the HARDEST to find. The local stores didn't have anyone knowledgeable enough to help me find what I was looking for, but I did manage to find this nut in my dad's "bucket o' bolts" that he tosses spare parts into. [edit] Below are the pics from the job I did. The first is of the finished ball end. From RIGHT to LEFT, I screwed on the RAM part on the rod (and used blue threadlocker); then a lock washer; then the inverted 12 mm flange nut; finally the regular nut (with blue threadlocker). In my case, the 12 mm nut was looser than the threaded rod. I pressed in a copper sleeve to take out the slack, but I could have used anything like a piece of electrical or Teflon tape to do that job. This part is together so tight nothing should work loose. The second is the whole rod after cutting. As you can see, from the tip of the ball to the end of the rod, you won't need more than 12 1/4 inches. The third is how it looks installed. Small and clean. The fourth is how the rod is secures from the bottom. For my bike, I chose to remove the horn (12 mm wrench) and the mounting bracket (10 mm wrench on two bolts) to move things out of my way. I used two fender washers and the nylon stop nut. Then I put the mounting bracket and horn back on. It should be possible to do this step without dismounting anything, but for me, it is a tight space to work in, and it was easier to do this than keep fumbling around things. If this thread should be in a special DIY section, feel free to move it.

Anyone know where they find a 12 mm hex nut? My local store has 11 and 13, but no 12 so far. Is there an SAE equivalent that works?

At least you can still read your tach with all that stuff on. :icon_shifty:

Dino oil doesn't flow as freely as full synthetic. So, at startup you're getting less oil moving around until it warms up. I suspect this is why you notice more ticking with dino oil after the change back.

Thanks. I'm going to go get an extra ball mount for that project. I'd rather mount the GPS there or just have the option to use that central point for mounting stuff, like my camera. [edit] Express Mounts added the ball and gave me the code for a 5% discount...FYI. RAMLIVECHAT = 5% off your order

Please show how you got that RAM ball on the steering column. There's no real depth to that hole to support anything and I'd like to see how you got around it and still managed to screw the cap back on.

Yep. Blue/Black or Blue/White. One is high, one is low. I suspect that Blue/White is low beam since the schematic shows it going straight to the starter switch, and we know the headlight comes on automatically when the engine starts. The Blue/Black goes to a headlight relay which seems to activate only when you toggle the H/L switch.

+1 The images are bigger, but the text is still blurred. Zoom in on the headlight parts to 200% and do a screen capture.

Those images aren't big enough, but I can talk you through it. You have two wires to each bulb. One is ground, so it will be identical for BOTH sockets. However, the OTHER wire will be different for each socket. See if the schematic designates one socket as high beam and the other as low beam. Note the color of those different wires and that will tell you which is which. Just make sure it is so by flipping the high/low switch before you put it all together if you have any doubts.

If I had the wiring schematic here, I'd look it up for you.

While we're at it.... What is the stock preset set for (weight)? How many turns of the ring is needed for X unit of weight adjustment? What is the recommended preset on the rear?

BTW, it should be obvious, but since the OEM filter doesn't show the fuel flow direction, the hose with the banjo bolts is the high-pressure supply line to the injectors. So that will tell you how to orientate the replacement filter correctly.

The WIX 33032 is a workable fit. You'll hunt for a longer screw, lockwasher and washer to replace what comes on the bike as the original filter is smaller, but it goes in there. I agree that the fuel filter isn't a mandatory replacement, but I like to do things like that once you pass the 50K mark on most any vehicle. Especially if you're going to go through all the work to dismount the tank anyhow. If there was no aftermarket filter that would fit, I'd say never bother until you have to. For less than $5.00, you can't beat it.

Just got back from Oreilly's. They had two filters....WIX and Microguard...both numbered 33032. I went with the WIX since (1) it was made in the USA and (2) the nozzles seemed a better match (Microguard's nozzles seemed a bit narrower). Otherwise, same length and just a bit over 1/2" (9/16") thicker (circumference). I'll see how it mounts up tonight.

Did you ever get the part number for the fuel filter or did I miss the post?

It's all good. I have pads for the next time I'll need them (a year or so perhaps), and I had to get to the pads anyhow to check them since both tires were being changed anyhow. You'd think they'd put wear indicators on all brake pads, but there you go.

Well, I got new pads and mic'ed them against what came off the bike. While each pad was at or just under "2 pennies" in thickness, they were just a tad worn compared to the new pads. I'd say a new pad is about 2 1/2 pennies thick. I couldn't justify replaceing them with so much left on them. So, I cleaned them, sanded the surfaces a tad, and since none of them showed unusual wear, I put them back on the bike and put the new pads in my "parts box" for when they will need replacement. Based on what I see, I'd suggest a "1 penny" standard. When your pads are down to 1 penny in thickness it's getting close to replacement time.

Just curious. Was there any warning before this happened (odd bike performace)? A battery hitting the bricks can happen with no warning, but a short/ground killing things is usually caused by something. Do let us know what you find out.

If you think that's bad, imagine buying a Pro-Oiler where that's where they suggest mounting the oil bottle. I'm not pulling off the luggage system and cowl just to top off the oil bottle. Fortunately, I found a better way to do it.

Other than checking the battery, you can jump in a fresh battery and see if the bike works normally. If not, then you have a short in the wiring harness.

EEEEEK! My English teacher would be ashamed! I remember the vehicle inspection station guy saying my pads were low last year, but I don't see it. They all seem fine to me. I agree that unless they are getting thin, there is no need to replace them, but without wear indicators (or unusual wear), how would you know when they are due for replacement? Anyone know what the thickness of the pad is when it's new?

Obvious time to replace is when they wear unevenly or are down to the base, but I remember my last bike used pads where the center grove in the pad doubled as a wear indicator. When it was gone, it was time for new pads. My current pads (IIRC) don't have a similar feature. At what thickness is replacement in order?

Sounds good. I'll do a compression check when I get around to accessing the airbox for the filter change, but I'm hoping going back to a stock paper filter will solve the "rich" problem. I suspect the cost and trouble of an aftermarket ECM just to use a K&N isn't worth it.

No idea on color, but I think someone might have commented if they thought it was oil. Given the soot on the exhaust, I'd say black. I'm doing a coolant change soon, so that would tell me if there was a coolant leak.

Okay, I've heard this more than once from someone behind me. Smoke came out of my exhaust. Never are they clear as to what I was doing when it happened. I have a K&N filter, but no modification to the ECM. I was tempted to install a stock air filter and see if that changes anything. I do have soot on the exhaust. I suspect these bursts of smoke may happen if I power downshift (drop down a gear with high RPMs). I'm suspecting the fuel balance is off, but I'm wondering what else to watch for. FWIW, 53,000+ on the odometer. Also, the battery is dying, need a new one, but it may have been going for the last year (slowing loosing power) which is about the same time frame I've heard the comments about "smoke" coming out of the exhaust on occasion.