Zero Knievel

+1 Maybe on other bikes that leave some room for play, but the XX everything is so packed in tight that you don't have any guess work. It fits or it doesn't, and if you have extra space, something's not right. When I put in the VFR bars, I had to tap the triple tree down 1/8" so the deeper clamps on the bars would clear the circlip groove on the tubes.

http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit.htm Google is your friend. They list the recommended adhesive.

Christmas shopping....done. PM sent.

For local sales you might be correct, but for sales to those in other states an FFL must do the transfer. BS, but it's the law. Additionally, the seller of a firearm may make any condition to transfer they see fit: copy of your driver's license, concealed pistol permit, etc. I suspect in New York it is even more strict. Out here in the Wild West I typically meet someone in a grocery store parking lot. It feels a lot like a dope deal. That's how it is here. If you're from another state, doesn't matter. A private sale is not subject to regulation unless it's a Class 3 firearm.

You shouldn't need a FFL unless buying from a dealer. Person to person transactions don't need a FFL...last I checked....or is this a Gestapo NY state thing?

If you're 150, the stock springs should be more than adequate. Us heavier folk need better springs because most all bikes are designed with a 160 lb rider in mind. Install a Datel voltmeter to monitor the electrical system. A stator should pretty much never go bad for no reason at all. The regulator/rectifier is the more obvious culprit and a voltmeter will keep you informed of it's proper function at a glance. I just hit 70K and replaced the cam chain tensioner, so you can look forward to that sometime in the future.

For clarification, which shotgun in that pic? Top or bottom? Also, what "legal" stuff do you need for the sale?

These embarrassing moments are about the only social life I have left.

Great advice, except he's not running Honda bars. Ah, I saw the XX and presumed he had the Honda bars on it. Didn't know about the heli bars. I just went with VFR800 bars instead...Honda equipment transferred right over.

For the most part, bar ends should be bar ends, but Hondas have that funky connection end to keep them from spinning once installed. You could probably get any number of compatible Honda bar ends from eBay or MC salvage yards.

I'd jump on it in a heatbeat, but I need to handle a weapon to know if it's right for me. Great deal though. Too bad you're not closer.

Just got back from Deal's Gap, and an odd thing happened there. Got back one evening to the hotel. When I went out to check the bike, the inside of the headlamp was fogged with moisture. Cranked up the bike, turned on both bulbs, cooked off the moisture. Turn it off and the fog comes back. In the morning, lamps are crystal clear. I can tell that this moisture is "trapped" inside the assembly, but is this normal? I never saw it happen with my regular bulbs. Yes, it was cool to cold and damp outside after the day's ride.

My guess is that military applications don't need the range of illumination that civilian cars require, so the LEDs are more than adequate. Didn't the military use to mask off a good part of headlamps years ago for vehicles in the field?

Been using Amsoil since about 1999....no problems, extended drain intervals, superior cleaning and protection. Change the truck's oil in Summer. Change the XX in winter. Do 6-month filter changes on the truck.

Ummmm you might wanna take a look at the pic again...passenger pegs are in place and folded up. JC Whitney motorcycle luggage and accessories Would be easy to adapt several of these boxes to a NightHawk. Ah. It appears eyes was one of the first two things to go.

Nice, but fairly pointless. It's just a metal rack. Something you might bungee to, but not quite enough. Wonder if there are cases that work with it.

Thank you. I did a double-look at the photo. My mind is the third thing to go. I forget what the first two were. Still, the Nighthawk has no pegs for the pillion, so the rider pegs are too far forward to mount onto.

I know this isn't a XX topic, but if anyone is in the know.... Dad has his 250 Nighthawk. Likes the idea of my Givi top case (or a similar product). Givi has no listed mounting options for the 250 Nighthawk. I can see why. Two good mounting points on the rear pillion (at the turn signals), but you really need at least 3, optimally 4. The XX uses the grab rail bolts and the exhaust pipe mounts. The Nighthawk mounts the exhaust pipes to the swingarm which makes them movable, not fixed. Any suggestions on what might work for this type of bike? Pic so you have an idea....

Well, you gotta have balance. When you have 2-3 months a year you really won't be out riding, it's easier to plan everything major around that time slot.

Not a believer in routine maintenance? :icon_think: Spark plugs...check every 2 years, expect to replace every 3-4 years...depending on quality of plugs used. I know these new iridium ones will last 50K+ with no issues, but since getting to them is a pain, I dwell on replacing them when I have the bike down for winter maintenance. Air filter...K&N needs to be dismounted, cleaned and recharged every year. Stock filters you should check every year. Brushing off dirt might buy you an extra year but expect to replace it every 2-3 years no matter what. Other than the loom fix, these issues were easily preventable from the start. Maintenance can be a pain to do, but it prevents the "WTF is this crap" moments throughout the year. Had a chattering noise coming from my motor. Just replaced the CCT (70K on the motor). Didn't hear a chirp or feel a vibe coming from the motor when I rode it yesterday.

Question, for the shifter, those who adjusted it to compensate for the lower peg, by how much did you adjust it?

It's also possible that the rod was still connected but loose and when it was unscrewed it undid off the rod :icon_think: When I replaced my springs one of the caps was screwed down lower on the rod than the other True. The real pain is getting that rod tightened into the cap and then raising the tube up to screw in the cap. Do it wrong and I don't doubt it will work loose in time.

I'll let you know once I get it working properly. Since it works for others, I'm hoping this is more a matter of adjusting and breaking in the product to find the right setting as compared to Karma coming by with some KY to teach me a lesson. I saw a sweet Throttlemeister-type device on some guy's bike (it was basically just a plastic cog that tightened against the grip). Worked in the same way but rather than be limited in turn, it could tighten a whole lot more and come completely loose. I think it worked perfectly, but I didn't ask where he got it from. The heated grips are an inherent problem with Throttlemeister-type devices, but I think more of the issue is having the right length. If the end of the grip can flex and compress, nothing will tighten enough to hold it. You need rigidity inside the grip, and they guy who owned the XX before me put grips that were 1/2" too long. Even the shorter ones go about 1/4 inch past the bar's end, but when you put on the bar end weight, it goes in near perfect, so I suppose it's normal that way. As far as how the VFR bars perform. I hope to find out tomorrow.

Well, here's where I'm at. Once again put plastic weld on the foot and recut it to fit perfectly. I also used some galvanized steel wire and safety wired the Vista in place. This ensures it does not move at all, and it seems to work better. Maybe it just needs to be fiddled with until it breaks in and I find that "sweet spot" where it works right (or someone who knows more takes a look). For now, it's in place. I also found that with the VFR bars, my control for the Pro-Oiler doesn't fit. I spent about 30 minutes wandering around Lowes to find something to rig up to solve the problem. I basically needed a block of metal to raise the surface I needed to attach to. I found some thick aluminum material. Figured I could cut it and layer it to make a block as needed. It took some time, but I sandwiched two strips together and glued them with metal-bonding epoxy. Attached that in place with a dab of clear silicone adhesive. Once that's nice and cured, I will bond the Velcro patch for the controller to the aluminum plate. Just about had the bike back together when I discovered one of those nut/rubber grommet things broke on me. Gotta pick up a couple spares tomorrow in town. I should be able to test-ride the bike this weekend and see how the adjustments feel.

They don't work with heated grips. I should know...I just sold the ones I had. I'm just about at wit's end here. I put on the Vista Cruise. Tested it. It seemed to work well. Today, I epoxy on the heated grips. Now it won't work. It either holds when on but binds when off (unacceptable) or it lets the throttle move freely but won't hold the throttle worth shit. Needless to say, I can't reposition the grips now that the epoxy has hardened...not without a lot of work. What am I doing wrong? :icon_think: I'm thinking of putting a single strand of safety wire around the foot on the Vista to secure it along side the throttle cables. When I held it in place, it worked perfectly. Now that it's on its own, it's not working. An easy thing to test and see if it solves the problem.