poida

the vfr 750 and early 800,s are still a great looking bike and so comfortable.the vfr750 was a bike i was looking at buying 18 years ago till i test rode a blackbird.

cheers for that.the whole braking system came up for sale cheap so i ended up grabbing it for spares.

just wondering if calipers from a 2001 blackbird will fit a 99.looking at the parts list they have different part numbers

starter valves sounds about right.yep activated by the wax unit.i think they restrict air,hence runs rich when cold.once the wax unit heats up the starter valves,or what i called plungers move back letting more air through.not sure what caused one on my bike to stick.i had shipped it back from europe and when i picked it up from the shippers depot it was running like a pig.took me a while to find out why but eventually tracked it down to one of the starter valves not opening when warm.i had a post on here back then asking for any ideas what what causing the rough running and sooty plug.will have a look for it.found it http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/73866-running-rich-in-no-4-cylinder/

i had one of the plungers sticking on mine a few years back.fouling number 4 plug and backfiring when closing throtte

a few possibilities that are easy to check,maybe a weak spark.is the battery charging ok? check the connectors going to the coils. the auto choke,enrichment system may be sticking. i have a 99 as well and havnt had a vacuum problem with it as yet.

Hi Spanish,easy checks to do would be check the contacts on the kill switch and checking the loom fix.im sure more knowledgeable members will be able to suggest other possible checks

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/MOTORBIKE-MOTORCYCLE-MOPED-ALUMINIUM-QUALITY-TAX-DISC-HOLDER-WATERPROOF-SILVER-/161231863838?hash=item258a2b001e the bike would be in the UK .we used to have rego discs for bikes in aus but they got canned years ago.they were handy for covering the number plate so rear facing speed cameras couldnt get the whole plate number.

i would say its the rego disc holder.that paintjob looks classy

Ive found the life span of the tensioners varies widely on my bike.i had one crap out a few years ago with less than 10,000klms on it.it went in a bigger way than usual with it rattling from under 2000rpm.easy way for you to check it is to undo the 8mm bolt and see if you can wind it in a little while the bike is idling.see if it makes any difference

if it has a vibration while not moving i dont see how it could be the chain.i would of thought that would only come into play when the bike is moving.when the bike is in neutral and stationary does the vibration get worse as the revs are increased ?maybe the cam chain tensioner has crapped out

check for loose brackets,mountings for the fairings.when you say in neutral is that while stopped with the engine at idle?

i've also heard there's a way to tip the tank up onto it's rear (vertical) but, that seems precarious to me. this is how i do it.place a rag or old t shirt on the frame above near where the battery sits then i rest the rear of the tank on that.i use a light tie down strap and thread it through the rear grab rail(i pass it through the luggage rack i have on mine) and over the tank and around the section on the underside of the tank that slots into the frame.cant for the life of me think what they are called.then it's just a matter of raising the front of the tank to a height that allows access without putting strain on the fuel lines and pulling the strap tight to hold it place.give it a bit of a shake to confirm it's not going to fall over but i have found it is always very stable.removing the air box is easy although be careful when undoing the screws that hold the injection intake stacks down as the screw heads seem to be made of cheese and is easy to chew them out.I have found using a screw bit from an impact driver and turning it with a spanner works best.hardest part now can sometimes be getting the plug caps off.sometimes i find they come off easy ,other times one may be a pain.using the plug spanner that comes with the tool kit works well to get the plugs out.only other thing to watch out for is making sure the air tubes that run from the front of the nose cone to the air box are seated in properly when reassembling.

your a sick man birdslapper. by the way,did cundalini ever get his hand back?

Of a bearing made of jewel encrusted unobtainium ?

cheers for the replies.i will pick up a starter motor off ebay and see how that goes. 4 28125-MV9-672 CLUTCH OUTER, STARTING Retail: $200.47 Price: $150.35 150.35 http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/honda/2001/blackbird-_-cbr1100xx/starter-clutch Yes, I know where you are from but even with shipping from the US, it can't be that much. Is the money exchange that much different? exchange rate isnt that bad 77 us cents to our $ at the moment.no idea where the aussie sites got their pricing from. the bearing didnt appear to be made of jewel encrusted unobtainium.

every now and then when i start my bike there is a squealing noise while it is cranking.the bike still starts fine and as soon as i release the starter button the noise goes away.do the starter motors squeal when they are on the way out or would it be the starter clutch? Im hoping starter motor 4 OUTER COMP., STARTING CLUTCH 28125-MV9-672 1 1080.85

it had started to leak slightly from the weep hole on the underside of the pump.when i checked the overflow bottle and noticed it was low on coolant i removed the fairing and started checking all the hoses and thats when i noticed the leak.had to lie on the ground and use a torch to find the weep hole.the manual states that if it,s leaking from the weep hole then it's time for a new pump.prior to that, going back a few years the bike seemed to be getting hotter while in traffic quicker than it normally would and taking a longer time to get back to normal. the flow looked really good and i checked the vanes with an endoscope and it looked good so while it bugged me i just kinda put it down to the roads being more congested now and im spending more time stuck at traffic lights. what i found though when adjusting the valves a little while back gave me a new theory on it.i had removed the radiator and decided to flush it out with a hose.this was a new radiator i bought near the end of 2011 (the old radiator had no corrosion, it got holed from outside).the top radiator fitting had been painted or powder coated on the inside and it had been flaking off .there was a piece about the size of a fingernail that had lifted and was about ready to take off into the coolant.ended up sanding off what remained but it got me thinking that the flakes may have been clogging the cooling system .the flakes may have even damaged the water pump seal ?ive always used the honda coolant as it is silicate free and change it every 2 years. i didnt take any pics of the water pump while it was still on the bike.

i ended up using permatex aluminium anti seize on the bolts.i read that when using anti seize on bolts that you need to lower the recommended torque so just did them up by feel.with the pump being held in place by only 2 bolts i'm guessing that there is not a lot of stress on it.hopefully i get another near 300 000 klms out of it before it needs doing again.

i threaded the other bolt that didnt snap into it while using plenty of penetrant.just worked it in and out slowly going deeper.threads seemed to be holding ok.ultimate test will be when i tighten them up once the pump is in.had a call today that my replacement bolts are in so will pick them up in the morning and fit the pump.should i coat the new bolts in anything like brake caliper pin grease?

update.finally managed to get it out.welding a nut on didnt work as it was difficult to get good penetration with a weld. so i upped the amps slightly on the welder and welded directly on to the bit that remained sticking out.slowly built up the amount of weld till there was enough to get a good grip on it with small stilsons and was able to initially get it to turn clockwise a bit.then spent the next few hours slowly turning it in and out with doses of penetrant till it came out.there was some thread stuck to the end of the bolt but hopefully it hasn,t damaged the thread enough that i cant get a new bolt to do up once they arrive.

ive found it can take a surprisingly long time for moisture to evaporate from the outside of the radiator after washing it . take the bike for a ride and recheck.

drilling and easyout would be as a last resort when i have nothing left of the bolt sticking out.would prefer to use the gentlest options first like heating/cooling to try and free it up.

thanks for all the advice.will try the freeze spray on the bolt and heat on the casing for a few days and see if that free's it up.will start with vice grips or small stillsons and try not to shear off the bit protruding. spent a few hours googling last night and found out about left hand drill bits,only problem is finding them here in australia and a mate has a small easy out kit at work he has offered to lend me.i have a mig welder so welding a nut on wouldnt be a problem just not sure if i want to go down that path just yet.

thanks superhawk.i used reducteur penetrating oil .i need to buy new bolts to replace the old ones but there are none available in australia so they will need to be ordered from japan.that will give me 2 or 3 weeks to get the broken bit out.was thinking of trying loctite freeze and release on the bolt.a friend suggested using a hot air gun on the engine casing leaving the bolt cold another suggested welding an 8mm nut onto the bolt,although that sounds a bit extreme at this stage.i know the engines get hot when running but do you know if there is anything that could be damaged by applying heat to just a small area of the casing?forgot to add,there is about 3 to 4mm of bolt sticking out.