IcePrick

:icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao:

Positively gorgeous. My old bird would never compare, and even if it did, I couldn't part with it. There has to be a taker out there somewhere. Welcome back!

Thanks Skull - I don't think the guy I bought it from knew, I was just going by the label (which is probably the retailer).

*EDIT* Observant and knowledgeable member says it looks like a Pyramid. I have no idea. Never mounted. Black. Has some cracks around the taillight that can be seen in the photo - I can't tell if they are just on the surface of the gelcoat, or if they are through, I don't want to flex it and find out the hard way. All the scratches you see are in the peel-off plastic coating that has never been removed. It is marked '96-'97, I'm guessing it would fit a '98 also. I think I bought this a long time ago from a board member, can't remember how much. I just want it down the road - $25 plus actual shipping.

I mentioned to my chiropractor that I feel better after riding. I demonstrated the riding position, and he said that position was exactly what I need to correct the two bulging disks I have. Adding the weight of the helmet is a plus that will strengthen the muscles in my neck and back. Go figure.

I've done exactly what you're describing before. Trust me that it is more difficult than it sounds, getting the stem in and through the hole, let alone seating it. Not being able to get truly behind the stem to push it into the hole is a real handicap. If you have big hands, you're screwed. I took a piece of wire, and after popping the bead, ran the wire through the old valve stem and out past the rim. Then I cut the outside portion of the valve stem off with a razorknife and pulled it up off the wire. The wire will now prevent the inner portion of the old valve stem from dropping into the tire - again, it sounds like a simple thing to fish out, but it isn't unless you have the hands of a four-year-old Korean girl. Now you can reach inside the tire and run the inner portion of the old stem down the wire and outside the tire to the trash. I recommend taking a piece of strong, thin cord and running it up through the bottom of the valve stem and out the top, tying a large knot at the underside (inside-the-tire portion) of the stem. Leave yourself a couple of feet coming out the top of the stem and at least a foot after the knot on the bottom side. Now take your piece of wire (still hanging through the hole in the rim and out between the rim and unseated bead) and put a hook in it, connecting it to the long part of the string. You will pull the wire, and then the string, inside the tire and up through the hole in the rim - the knot needs to be large enough that it won't pass through the stem, and you'll really need to pull on it so make it a strong one. Tie the string off to something so that when your hand cramps and you have to pull it out of the tire, you haven't lost the entire first part of the battle. Lube the new stem with a drop of dish detergent and some water just when you are ready to start working it between the rim and bead. Pulling on the string, pushing on the inside portion of the new stem, and grunting with expletives should bring you success. Once it seats, pull the string out from inside the tire. The same soap/water combo makes seating easier and helps the bead pop at less than 2000 psi. (usually around 80 is the most I have to go if the bead is lubed). Rotate the tire and feel the gap (mmmmm...) between the rim and the ridge (not sure what it is called) on the tire - that should be a uniform gap all the way around the tire, or it isn't seated somewhere. I have had success installing a new stem from the outside in the past. It requires lots of patience, lube, force, getting an edge under the hole in the rim, and pushing the other edge down with a screwdriver. I don't recommend trying this unless you have spare valve stems and don't care if your wheel gets scratched up from the screwdriver when it slips off the lubed stem and careens down the side of your wheel under extreme force. Or into your knee, as the case may be.

Oh, boy.

I'm thinking the OP probably resolved his issue. It sounds like the second poster is already done with his bike...

Sounds like a plan to me. I was awaiting further instruction.

Well, the shipping might put it over the top

In. Wanted one for a long time, I don't know why $30 has stood between me and wheel alignment for so long.

When I was looking for VFR bars, I posted on the VFR forum and got two pairs for cheap - one was just shipping.

+1 +2

Oh, man - that thing's sweet. In the unlikely event you don't get action on it quick enough, post it at ADVrider.com - lots of interest there.

PM sent.

I got two iPhone cases for Christmas, and the Marware loses to the Otterbox. $44.99 list, $31.49 is what I paid (it was a Christmas present to myself, if you want things done right you have to do it yourself). Yours for $20 plus actual shipping. Used for one hour or less, everything is there. http://www.marware.com/products/iPhone-4/S...le-for-iPhone-4

I will take them Carlos, and use them as template to make more Those are obviously the originals that Bill created Paypal accepted ? Put me on the list for the first run of the repros...

Wow - nice work.

Hah! Yeah, I'd need a custom suit according to that thing, and based on the measurements on their charts, I don't think they can make the cowhide in my dimensions at all. The chest size is perfect, I just need to grow 8 inches, 6 of them in the inseam. If I were an engine, I would be called "oversquare". It isn't as bad as it sounds.

Ah, crap. How the fook am I supposed to ask this? Ummm... what size/measurements is it SUPPOSED to fit? Like, waist, inseam, and... ah,... chest? I wear a 46 suit, but I *think* that is a size, not a measurement. I always have to have the pants taken in and hemmed. I have NO idea how one piece track suits are measured. I'll guess they are different than a business suit.

FI or carbed?

There are very few engineering feats that "can't" be done. I'm guessing that it is tied to the ECU in terms of supplying certain data inputs - VSS, IGN, prpbably a few others. There may or may not be the necessary outputs from the US ECU to supply that data. If so, you can make it happen in a fairly tidy fashion. If the 'bird ECU will not supply the required outputs to the VFR ABS box, you'll need to figure out what the inputs are into the ABS computer and then fool the box into thinking it is getting the data it needs - there are ways of creating that data and supplying it without the ECU output. The first step is to get electrical schematics for both bikes. Finding out what data inputs the VFR ABS box needs, and in what format, voltage, etc. will be more involved. It isn't impossible, but it would be an interesting challenge.

D'oh. I went out of town and completely forgot to cross post it. Now I'm leaving town again Thursday morning (TeXXt) and am in a mad race at work and in the garage to get things ready. When I come back, I'll post both the XX and the KTM (which might get more action) as soon as I can. Sorry

PM sent.

+1 on the JCWhitney option. Not the hottest quality, but good enough. Someone found a tailrack that fits for you, it isn't "pointless". Once you have a tailrack that fits, bolt the universal mounting plate that comes with the JCWhitney top case to the rack. Price is right for the top case, it's tough and durable. It's the rack that is spendy, but $129 is not much above average.