redxxrdr

Not Xj specific. First, I would find and search as many jeep forums as I could. the basic audiovox cs100 cruise was available for 30 plus years. I even installed it on air cooled VW. The product by Rostra seems to be the new replacement. Forums, and a good shop manual should tell you if the basic wiring is already installed. For for a spare, I would go to a junk yard and buy any rim with the same tire size and bolt pattern. I bet that you could get a plain Jane rim with a good tire for cheaper than the cost of a new replacement rim.

Have you tired Ron Ayers? They have most parts, not cheap, but they might have what you need. Mines a FI, so Im not sure what part you are looking for. Carb diagram

Flush your lines and cooler well if not new. I would even if new. I have been burned a few times with crap in the lines. On most of the engines that I play with, the lines are after the filter. No need to put someone else's stuff through your engine.

I I thought that the cooler sat behind the nose vents on the car bed models, and open, above the radiator on the FI. Could a old time radiator shop do the repair? I know that oil pressure is around 45 psi, and a radiator should run 16-18 psi depending on radiator cap. I have seen threads about oil filters failing at the pressures a bikes oil pump puts out. i would let a radiator shop know of the pressures , if you try.

Although the lift table is nice, there are other ways. With the shock shim, I can't just pull my XX tire rearward. i have done two different work around so. 1st, a pretty long 2x6, ride the bike on it. helpers put smaller 2x6 under each side of center stand. Pull the bike onto the stand, then removed the board from under the tires. The rear is now high enough to remove the tire. I could have done it without the center board if I was as strong as N1k. The next time, I really rednecked it. I put the bike on the center stand with the rear tire off the pavement, over grass. A few scoops of my shovel, and I had a nice hole to lower my rear down for removal. Grass grows fast, and I'm cheap.

Don't have a wing, not ready for one yet. But I love wrenching, and John's post made me wonder. Like so many things today, it looks like patience,. Time, patience, good tools, patience, a clean work area, patience, Good directions , and patience, and you could change a rear yourself. And if you bought one with the street fighter look, you could substitute patience for beer.😎😎

Make sure that you programmed the cruise for the highest performance engine setting possible. plus have some slack in the ball chain at rest. These will help with surging. I started with a small vacuum canister, and went to on the size of a tall beer. That helped to. As far as ABS, you could always reverse the pads like the ones on Swampys thread. 😆 Then they will never lock. 😎

Ordered tires Tuesday night, arrived this afternoon. Guess I will be mounting this weekend.

Super hawk posted this link in my cruise gotcha thread. I haven't ordered one yet, tire came first. Members 418 3,465 posts Gender:Male Location:L.A. Ca. Interests:Boats, cars, bikes, guns, chicks, going fast..... Other Bikes:'01 Bird. '06 Ducati 999s. Posted April 17 · Report post You could buy a new servo assembly here http://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=422 and be plug & play repaired for $80. 0

Did you fix your problem? Do you have the servo module programmed for coil input? Switches in the rear o f the servo. I have mine disconnected at the coil due to ignition problems that were coming from the module. A newer manual, that I downloaded, showed a filter between the coil and the sensor wire. Mine did not come with one so many years ago. I suspect that it is just a blocking cap. I will get a new servo and reinstall in the future.

Well the GT seems to be rated for bikes heavier than the XX. PR4 Both PR4 and PR4GT seem to be in the same weight class. So I have a set of on the way. I have run PR, PR2 , looking forward to the PR4

I like your thought John. I have always had good results with standard PR. You know how I ride, slow. I do wonder it there is a difference in the " Feel" on the GT. SW moto ( now discount motorcycle tire) has a Package deal for $300.00, free shipping. I'll see if anyone post any negatives, and if not, regulars it will be. The girls are ready for a mountain ride in the fall, and I want to be ready. Thanks Edit, Philip you must have posted during my response. I agree. I do remember people having problems putting powers on a XX . Powers being designed for lighter bikes. I am amazed how good the SV feels with PR4's. I know that I give up soft sides for medium with the 4's, but I don't see that to be a problem. Thanks again

I just spooned a set of PR4 on the SV. Replaced a PR 2 rear and power front. Much better turn in. Nice pilot ride, as expected. My plan is to stick with Pilots on my XX too. Upgrade from my last set of PR2. But the question. PR4 rear comes in two street grades. Regular, and GT for heavy bikes, two up , with bags. I rarely ride two up, no bags, but my mirror shows that I could drop at least 40 lbs. So which PR for my XX? Regular or GT?

when you get to tires, replace the valve stems too. I have had them fail on my 86 Magna, and 2001 SV and XX. you will reach down to check pressure one day and it will just break off. Eddy steered me to aluminum ones fromKurveygirl No rubber for Ozone to destroy. I also had the vacuum lines from the throttle bodies crack. There are silicon replacements available, cheap.

Totally agree with the above about octane, with one caveat. Best power, and economy with the lowest Octane that you can run without detonation. This is pretty easy with new engines with knock sensors. If the computer hears a knock, it retards the spark to prevent destroying the engine. Stay with the recommended octane fuel, or higher if you are running older high compression engines without knock sensors. Or high compression power tools like my Stikl chain saw. You will eventually burn a piston on those engines, or worse. The same is true if you add a hair dryer to 70's vintage 911, and try to drive 500 miles on 87.😰

I looked at the schematic for the post 99. It looks like a 02 sensor is added for California. I know that O2 sensors are used to clean emissions on cars ( make them lean out), and they will really screw things up if they go bad. I wonder if you could swap ECM and disconnect WPC GR and feel a difference?

None of those canisters that Shane showed in his thread on my bike. And my sticker doesn't say California either. And I googled, 91 RON is 87 octane US.

My 01 has no CAT, or evaporate canister. Purchased new in Georgia. My shop manual to 2003 shows evap canisters for California, but no CAT. Does the VIN plate show California or Canada like some cars do?

I know of no way to get more voltage out but a R/r failure or bad meter. Rectifier diodes short, load on stator and heat through the R/r and stator. Diodes open, no current flow, no output. Some partial combination of the above two modes, again.... Lower output. I did put my meter on the min/max sample setting, 1ms sample rate. I toggled through so that both min and max voltages were the same and revved my engine. No dropouts or peaks captured. Too lazy to get out a O scope. Your meter might see something faster than 1ms, but I doubt that your eyes could. I also sampled AC voltage at the battery. pretty stable around 145 milli volts. Three different R/r with the same results? I would suspect your dash meter. I still recommend putting a known good DVM on your battery and compare the readings when it fails. I always check my work meters when they come back from calibration. Once in a while, I get one that reads off straight back from repair.

Mike, my 01. AGM battery, approx 1.5 years old. Ricks stator. OEM R/r Fluke 87 cal due date Jan 2017 3k. 14.9 vdc 5k 14.55 vdc 7k 14.53 vdc

I found this old post searching Northman. God it's funny. But I think the easiest way to go 200 mph is to get a kph speedo.

I did a search for some of Chris's old build threads. I came up empty. ☹️ I do remember that he did a lot of work, heads and bore. I'm pretty sure that he had reached the limits that could be done with the tight cylinder package of our block. It was an amazing build, but I don't think that he was satisfied with the final results. It worked well, but we always want more power. To me, a well built turbo engine would give more output, and probably cost less. ( still expensive). There are a few people on the board who have made turbos work, and others that have failed. As John said in the pictures thread, Kents bike would show up on the street once in a while, and that thing was supposed to put out almost four times the stock power. I wonder if "way-back" could find those threads. I would love to read them again.

Mike, I know that I set my idle up some years ago to keep a little more charge. Work sucks this week, but I will try to capture some measurements this weekend. I was going to get a baseline before installing a series regulator anyway. ill do static battery voltage,( 1.5 year old battery),aftermarket stator, OEM R/r. Voltage at idle/ rpm, and maybe at 5k. Im not sure when I will get the sh847 installed for comparison. Let me know if you think of any other measurement that you need.

In early HID threads, people would push the starter button and then turn on the key. This was thought to extend the life of the HID by only causing it to cycle once per start. Of course, this means that a FI bike is turning over before the ecu has completed its power up diagnostic, and before there is full fuel pressure. HID kits have dropped in price over the years. I paid around $200.00 for a pair 10 years ago, and still have one kit in reserve. I mounted low beam only. I purchased a xentec bi-Xeon for the SV a few months ago for less than $30.00 delivered. We do have to watch the set on the SV. They start when the key comes on, but sometimes fail to restart after the engine is started. I just have Kirsten conditioned to switch to high beams, then back to low once started. So far, it works every time. Note: the XX does not turn off the low beam bulb when high beam is on, so the high beam start trick won't work for it.. HID are so cheap, and so much more visible today. I will afford to run them on my bikes to help be seen.