redxxrdr

I had to shave rubber OFF my tires after the last time Mike rode my bike. 😏 Seriously, I live in the flatlands, and ride conservatively, ( slow as shit). I can stretch a PR rear to the cords at 8K miles. But that is really pushing it. Mike, if you have to ask, replace them. Tires are cheaper than skin. Shop for a good deal and keep a new set under your bed.

Philip, the neon cluster connects with two plugs in the rear. google neon cluster repair. every gauge on one Chris was driving would go nuts. Even the speedo. All I had to do was pull the cluster and resolder the connectors for the plugs on the cluster mother board. It fixed all the intermitant problems. Of course that didn't prevent the failed water pump, timing belt. Head gasket, transmission bands and oil pan that happened with a young man driving a old car on dirt roads like a pickup truck.

I had asked Eddy the same thing, but for my SV. He pointed to late R1 and R6 masters. They are radial types, Bremo clones. That was the easy part. Sizing ( and skills) was my next problem. I have always liked the "feel" of my stock XX. But Aunt Sylvia,says that they feel mushy to him. The SV was a brick when purchased. But it was old, with gummed up calipers. Now upgraded to 4 piston 954 calipers. It is smooth, linear, but still requires more lever force than the XX. Four more Pistons, on the same master, should have reduced the effort a lot. But I don't have a baseline, or the knowledge to know if I am as good as it gets. I grabbed the brakes on a 2016 R1 in a showroom, and found them to be wooden. Is it feel, or stopping power that you are going for? Have you cleaned and bled the system good? EBC HH pads really grab better than stock. Easy to do, without modifications. A de-link will give you more Pistons on the same size master cylinder. More mechanical advantage. But again, I don't know what is "good" feel. Also, research shows that there are different sized master cylinders, and different lever forces. I forget the technical term for the lever force. Basically it is the pivot point of the lever. Not all master cylinders are the same. So...... I know that my response has been no real help. But I will be watching the feedback that you get. I see a R1/6 master in my future for the SV. They go for $80.00, up on eBay.

Jeff, I haven't met you yet. I returned to this thread after finding a rocket post by someone and thought of you. Does that make me a stalker? I have been riding my 01 a lot more recently. It's funny how many people come up to me and ask when Honda released this new bike. 20 year old design, and it still looks great. I wish that you would link some of your pictures through the .org album. The old links no longer worky for me. Threads like this are inspiration for all of us. I hope to keep mine until I am gone. And then hope my children will share her.

http://www.vt750dc.com/HONDA_VT750DC.pdf I think this is the manual of your bike. chapter 18, if i linked correctly has a starter trouble shooting guide. I'm going to post the link, and then go back to read the manual. To help us... help. Do you have a digital volt meter? And are you comfortable in using it? Many do, and many do not. A meter will help work you through electrical problems. Disclaimer. I found this manual with a Google search. It may be for your bike, or not. Think before following the guide. It may not be the correct one. Edit: it also looks like a kick stand and clutch interlock switch is in the circuit. Or the bike must be in neutral. Plus, look at the drawing that starts on 18-0. I see a couple of fuses in the circuit. And what appears to be a unmarked fuse in the starter relay. Either could be bad. My SV WONT start unless the clutch is pulled in, transmission in gear or not.

Wow, Old post . But information is always appreciated. I was just thinking about riding with X1rider (Mike). And XxStar (Ron). I never met Brett, but still miss him. And this post shows up. Here's to old friends who never entirely leave us. I hope that we ride together some day. And to new friends. Thank you and welcome.

requesting neckid pictures?You pervert! You know it.

Ooooh, Neckid XX on the road. And the fastest color at that. PICTURES?

John, Mike is right. Plug is near the pump. Chapter 6 of the manual. Attaching some poor I photos of the pages. I think I pulled the lower hose to speed things up the last time I did it. Don't forget your overflow reservoir. Edit, There appears to be a drain plug at the cylinder base too. Sorry, the picture in the manual leaves a little to be desired.

Yes, Thank you for the update. I knew the plug still existed on the 01, but I have never cut the tape down to find it. Photos and guidance on how you bypassed it would be appreciated. On a gremlin note, I had been lax on plug service on my 01. Miss read the manual, and changed the plugs at 16 K, then just changed them at 56K. Yes, I know...... Damn sorry of me. Plugs were sooty, not gummy. I know that the XX tends to run a little rich with a stock Ecm. But so far, my intermittent stumble and rough idle have cleared. Simple things can still give these bikes grief.

My 01 started running real rough, intermittently. Time for plug change. Then I remembered that I have a pair block off kit from Rich. It is an early one, and I think the plates need a recess ground in it for some reason. So, what hoses need to be removed? Are there seals under the pair valves that are used on the block off plates? Or do I do RTV? It looks like there will be one hose removed from the breather box, then capped. Does anyone remember? Edit, Also, My bike is stock, in the engine department. I don't see a power commander, or non-stock exhaust in my future. So do I have anything to gain, by doing the block Offs?

Plus remember, the standard for measuring the oil level is with the springs removed. Oil viscosity actually goes down as it ages. So you get a softer suspension as it ages. Fork rebuild is really not that difficult. I did the Penske cartridge and spring replacement group buy a few years back. What a difference. I also did a spring upgrade and race tech gold emulator for the SV. I did it all myself. Really not bad.

Agreed on top change procedure. Best done it you have the plug wrench from the tool kit. If not 1/4 inch drive socket, a universal joint adaptor, and two short extensions. Get plugs in boxes that are in good condition. They come pre- gapped. A feeler gauge or gap tool will usually damage them. ( you will understand when you see them). I use a good anti sieze on the threads. Use a torque wrench if you have it. Small plugs, low torque, easy to break. Plan on a couple hours if you are virgin.

John, We were talking about racer XX this weekend. Both girls expressed interest. They both need some seat time first. But we are going to try.

Thanks, Yes that video was tough. But it got the point across. Nikki bought this bike from a private shop. Supposed to have been gone through. Looks like recent chain and sprocket. Very dirty. Chain looked very loose to me. I mention it, and next time I saw it , there was 3/8 inch of play. She says that no one touched it, I suspect boyfriend. He rides a cruiser, and told me that all cruisers should have the chain as tight as possible. I suggested that he read a manual, and adjusted the chain to spec. Amazing, a clunking noise at start off went away with a chain cleaned and adjusted. Nikki's mom had a stroke a few weeks ago at 47. So I did a quick look over of the brakes, then off to visit rehab. I plan to be more thorough soon. I see a set of HH pads in Nikki's future. She is teaching herself, cash limited for MSF. On another note, Kirsten is taking her MSF this week. She Will ride my SV after that. Some of you will remember it as Bills yellow one that took out Hobie a few years back. It is much better now, and blue. It's the same year as Suzi's. So now I have more things to worry about.

this was discussed years ago, on the old forum format. God daughter just bought a used Ninja 650. Pulse while braking. I haven't checked runout yet, but the buttons don't rotate, whole bike is dirty on the mechanicals. Does this help? Can it hurt? My bikes are clean enough to rotate the buttons easily. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nqcHw_t3QlU Thanks, Craig

I thought that the 01, and later still have the diagnostic plug. Just mounted higher on the frame to limit water intrusion. My fuzzy mind says left side, just below the tank, wrapped in tape. But I could be thinking of another bike. I did have intermittent FI lights on my 01. Stator and battery failed. Fi light went away once the charging system was fixed.

Although it gets argued here. The R/ R is a shunt device. It rectifies and regulates the stator output. I used to run drills and hedge clippers off of my trucks alternator. Just needed a switch and relay that dissconnected the diodes from the alternator. Easy to get 130 vac from a standard alternator. But 12 volt lights don't like it. Put your meter on the battery and measure both DC and AC . I bet you will see some high AC voltages.

I suspect that you could put a filter on a carbed bike. Gravity feed. I'd worry about it on a Fi. I would buy a quality filter, glass style. Use good clamps, and saftey wire between the clamps. It will be out of site, under the tank. You could have big problems by the time you smelled gas

Hank knows his stuff. I remembered this thread. Some unique solutions here. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=76339&hl=%2Brussian+%2Bturbo

Been there. Probably flat battery. Probable stator or R/R if the battery is that new. The instruments pull very little power and will work with a very low battery. Use the charging circuit flowchart in the useful threads section. I will try my Idevice mojo to link it.http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=33318 And Hobie's link. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53455 Of course, it could be a loose connection on the battery. I had a no start this weekend on my sons POS neon. Two positive leads from the battery. One molded in to the terminal, one attached to the terminal clamping bolt. The cable attached to the bolt was sandwiched between two corroded washers. Cleaned off the corrosion, and starter worked fine. Good luck. And. Yes, stuff like that sticks with me too.

Chuck, I know I sound like my kids. Hey dad, spend money. But I have had rubber valve stems fail on multiple bikes in the past few years. OEM, Honda valve stems, purchased in a Honda part numbered bag. Seems that China is making most of the worlds rubber, and it doesn't hold up to UV or ozone like the old stuff. Nhttps://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=169&osCsid=7fefo912mj53vt8prlt886lit6 Eddy turned me on to these. Ok so my iPad copy / paste skills failed. Should have shown angled, aluminum valve stems. I got mine from kurveygirl, but my local Honda dealer has a similar product on the shelf. The angled head makes it easier to fill when using those straight on chucks found at gas stations. And almost all of the rubber seals are internal and protected. The only downside that I know of is that a heavy handed mechanic can strip the retaining threads if he doesn't use a torque wrench. I would look into them, since your tires will be off anyway.

Chuck, That is a good price. About $120.00 less than I saw for PR4. Powers are softer, and stickier than roads, and as Tim says, they will wear faster. But why not. Your riding season is now short. These a good tires to learn a new bike with. Post up what you think about the whole package after a few hundred miles. P. S. Don't forget to scrub those new tires in at lesser lean angles for a few miles. Get the release agents off of them before pushing your cornering limits

But John, That bike was sold later as never down. Also, remember that tires have load ratings. The XX is on the high end of the weight and speed range for most tires. We talk about twistys, and track days. But most of us don't get to ride the fun rides every day. PR have treated me right in all weather. And I rarely need weight balance them.

Pilot roads have always been good to me. I cut a rear once at speed. One inch gash. It went bang, and I slowed down. Still had pretty good control. And they were sticky enough for Zero at racer XX.