Master Of Pain

Thanks. The kit is indeed installed, the needles are on the second clip from the bottom, and there is a single small washer under them. I wonder if it's a shim or by default. The slide has two small holes, one through the bottom wedge and another off-center from the needle, and it's fairly small.

After experiencing some recent pinging and detonation issues, I decided to pull the carbs and clean them. Someone put a "Factory" sticker on the airbox on my 97', but I've noticed that it has always ran flat around the 5K mark. When I bought the bike a year ago, it was fully piped (Yoshi), with a K&N filter and what I was told to be a Factory jet kit installed. Upon pulling the carbs, I noted that the foam breather had deteriorated and the carbs had sucked some of the foam back into them, a small piece was up in between the diaphram cap and the bladder. Upon flipping the carbs, it appears that the pilot adjustment screws has the stock tamper plugs still on them. I could also see that the tamper paint on the float bowls & bolts appears to never have been disturbed, not to mention the pilot screws. You would have to adjust these with a jet kit, no?.... Hmm. One would think that with a full exhaust and K&N the stock bike would be hesitating like hell... but it is somewhat boggy in the midrange, and loses a bit of punch at the topside. So the question is, how do I identify that a Factory jet kit is indeed installed? Anything in particular to look for? PS how do you get the freaking needles out of the slides :icon_think:

WHERE???

AMSOil. I use it in my 600+ HP Lightning, XX and the Sabre. Remember the cam wear issues with the Sabre/Interceptor/Magna's 1100CC engines? I have no oiler kit, and 12K since the regrind. No appreciable wear, because AMS seems to flow and stick really well. Valvoline Full Synthetic is the only common quality shoe-in that I can think of, been using it in my Subarus for a long time. It's always done well on the Blackstone http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html tests I've had run. More and more bike stores (in the Houston area at least) are stocking AMS on the shelf. If you order online, just get a sufficent quantity (after you try it first, of course) to keep on hand.

I reccomend oil in your crankcase after you drain it.

That's the headgasket... Warped heads or blown. Not likely to be "loose", but anything's possible. Have you noted water in your oil?

Apparently not like this Anybody from here?

Fucking faggot Oh - topic! :wink: Normal!

One well placed neutron bomb in the middle of Los Assqueer, Faggotfornia will eliminate the emissions problems there.

Dat shizzle tyte yo

YOU GON GET RAPED The product in question is Redline Water Wetter, or a simular product to this. The concept is all the same, a chemical that breaks down water's surface tension and allows greater thermal transfer from metal to water. In order for it to be effective in a coolant solution, your mixed ethlyne glycol coolant shouldn't be greater than 15% by volume.

Has anybody ever heard of a garage style rental as opposed to public storage? I need to rent a place that has AC hookups on the inside, and so far I haven't been too sucessful.

Coating in the automotive world has the following benefits: 1 lower underhood temps 2 higher exhaust stream temps, hence higher exhaust flow rates If you can afford it then by all means. If anything, you will have a cooler running bike. The increased flow might net you a few HP, but that depends on a lot of factors.

SBS sintered seems to be my favorite pad these days. :wink:

My bitch rides my dick or nothing at all. Adopt this policy, and keep your pimp hand strong, brother!

Did the Vision bug jump over before you sold it I'm trying to get rid of my old 82' project bike right now on ROV. Bought a more worthy 84' V65 Sabre to pleasure tooling myself with on the weekends...

WARPED ROTORS :x

Well, my front rotors are warped - sucks, yes. I need to find a "best bang for the buck" set for the front end today so I can have them ordered and delivered before the weekend. Bike Bandit has EBC Pro Lites for $189.05 ea. (1 rotor) Has anybody seen better prices elsewhere, or a better quality set within the price range? I live in the US. Thanks a ton!

Try running a can of Seafoam through the crankcase (just start and warm the bike up through a few fan cycles, no riding) prior to the oil change. That will loosen up a lot of crud. Find the guy who sold you the bike and take a shit in his mouth.

Fuck you yo

Yes, I lost my only keys. Can I order a new key set or do I have to replace the lock assemblies?

Yeah, they'll be missing out on $78.00 bucks of your hard earned coin, warning.

I have a 1993 HRC CR-250. The manual says 32:1 mixing ratio. Go to a dealer and get a Ratio-Rite for your mixing needs and stop kicking yourself in the nuts. The actual octane requirements of the engine is 94, however the stock reccomended plug for the bike is cold and the bike is jetted rich, making it better suited for the masses who only have access to 91-93 octane. Racers rejet and go with a hotter plug. I agree with the reed valves suggestion, they do get brittle and frayed and need replacement once a casual riding season. Be advised that the power valve on 1992-1996 bikes needs to be cleaned once every 10 hours of riding time. If it is not cleaned, it can stick open and make for hard starts and poor running. You really need to get a manual :idea:

Magnum Powers upgrade for the stock Eaton S/C

Burn out the remaining fuel with fire.