MrBadExxample

Prices?

Unfortunately our bike, and most high HP bikes, attracts many squids and dipshits.

straps only. BTW, the dimensions are 12"x8"x4.5"

Some ideas: Warming the offending area could facilitate passing the plastic sides over each other. Lubricating the crack could also help, hmmmm... me likes where this is going. Bulge out the area to help spread the crack to create clearance as the sides pass over each other. I'll let you know if I have an "eureka" moment.

Price lowered to $100. Despite the lovely blue color, I know at least one of y'all is secure and confident enough to wear it. C'mon it's full of gay sex appeal.

I guess the gay talk on the forum is just frontin'. Anyone wanna walk-the-walk and get this jacket?

Bump and dropped the price for you stingy-ass-no-perforated-leather-needing-bishes.

This came with a bike I purchased last year. Like new condition, I never used it. So here it is. $25.00 OBO.

Start disconnecting things - headlight, turnsignals, taillights, kickstand safety switch, etc, while checking the voltage drop. This may help identify the offending circuit.

My initial guesses would be an inner or outer bushing is not seated properly, maybe a bent cartridge rod. Do you get this feeling in both forks or just one?

1. Remove the motor mount and replace with a socket cap (allen) M10 bolt. 2. Install lower cowling. 3. Sharpen the end of a bolt with an 8mm head, slip it into the head of the socket cap bolt. Essentially this creates a prick punch that is screwed into the motor mount. 4. Smack the outside of the cowling hard enough to punch mark the inside. 5. Use a hole saw to drill through the cowling, obviously centered at the mark.

Picasa Album Do you plan to install sliders? If so, there's trick to getting the cowling hole in the correct location.

You may have installed the block off plates backwards. It's easy to do. If installed backwards they won't seal properly as the reed valve screw heads won't line up with the cut outs inside the block off plates. I assume the block off plates do have cutouts inside of them to clear the reed valve screw heads, no? But this is just a guess, based on limited info.

Hmmmm. A couple things come to mind. 1. Does the slide in the carb move up/down smoothly and easily. Is there an airleak around the diaphragm, torn perhaps? 2. Did you replace the float needle valve. It's sounds like it's running out of fuel (needle not opening) then getting too much fuel (needle stuck open).

According to the RonAyers.com parts lookup the clutch lever is compatible with 800cc VFRs and 1000cc VTRs. The brake lever is only compatible with 800cc VFRs.

Wasn't the knock sensor added in 2000? If so, that would cause the wiring harnesses to be different. But they may still be compatible, especially the sub-harness you speak of.

yes, butt it don't count,,smart ass, so don't count it Oh not really trying to be a smart ass. But I wasn't sure if Backstreet wanted to the the sparks/sec or the explosions/sec. And for another bit of trivia, how many revolutions does the engine on a top fuel dragster complete in an average 1/4 mile run?

Might it be 100 sparks/sec? Isn't every other spark in a particular cylinder wasted since one coil powers two cylinders (spark plugs). With this arrangement isn't there 1 spark/rotation?

First, there is no excuse for poor communication. I can forgive a shop for finishing work late, but not for calling me to give me an update. I agree with the others. Change them yourself. Any tools you need to buy will pay for them self in two tire changes. Then you can change them at night yourself and not miss a minute of riding.

Dibs on the Nelson-Rigg Bags. PM Sent

PM Sent. What sort of project are you considering? Just curious.

Just a thought, but you might have better luck prying it back into shape using a lever of some sort, maybe a large crescent wrench? Slowly and uniformly heating the carrier should also help. But ask Joe or Stan, I'm sure they have more experience than I do.

I wouldn't turn the rotors, bend 'em back into shape. Usually the rotor isn't warped, rather the carrier is bent. It's not hard to bend the rotor carrier, happens way too often during tire changes. Which may explain why only one of yours is bent.

chatvmax, if it helps, I have a inner clutch hub and a couple other parts from a FI (99+) XX that you can send off for work. So you wouldn't miss any riding.

Funny how much time shortcuts add to a project. I know this sounds preachy (forgive me) but I gave up on shortcuts a long time ago. The fastest way is almost always the right way.