MrBadExxample

That sounds like valve grinding compound, which I've used successfully with stripped bolt heads.

Can you cut the slot without touching the fender? Another idea is to drill through the center of the fastener head with a bit slightly larger than the shoulder of the bolt. This will separate the bolt head from it's stem. Then you can remove the fender and use a vise grip to turn out the remaining stub. I also recommend using cutting oil during this process. This procedure works even better with a left handed bit, which will often bite into the fastener and spin it out.

Ask and ye shall receive. Ignition Switch Disassembly

Well it's a 2001, which means there's not a vacuum actuated petcock. A fuel related problem only during right turns doesn't seem right. It's got to be electrical. But, get the open vacuum line plugged. I can't remember, do FI birds still have a vacuum port under the #2 intake?

I miss her. <sniff> <sniff> She looks good Pat. With the peg lowering brackets and VFR bars you must be looking forward to some long days and big smiles.

That's not in Virginia is it? Did the previous owner have any extra electronics wired into the bike? Perhaps something was put amiss during the install/removal process.

+1 on the wiring problem, check the wires going into the kill switch, ignition switch and kickstand switch. Where are you located? If you're near me, I'd be glad to help. I ask because the was a 2001 XX for sale near me recently, probably just coincidence.

Wow dude, bold move. I really dig the R1 paint job. The rims are visually a little distracting. The XX paint job is a bit shocking. I like it, very European, no?

I'm not sure what you're saying. Do you want to change a carbed XX engine to be fuel injected so you can use a PC-III? That doesn't seem worth it to me. Rejetting would be easier.

The clutch lever should give you nice firm, even resistance with the first pull. No pumping required unless there's air in the system. It sounds like a bleeding is required, easy to do though.

Off the top of my head, I can't recall the area you're describing, but could you put a bolt all the way through the frame and put a nut on it? I'm guessing my idea would involve drilling that hole completely through the frame. I might have time tomorrow to look at this area on the bike and see if I have any other ideas. Thats sucks though.

I don't know what they mean by "cut the banjo fittings" but I wouldn't do it. Not to insult your knowledge, but banjo fittings are the part on the end of the brake and clutch lines. In no way should they be molested. Perhaps they meant cutting the plastic cable ties that secure to brake lines to other parts.

When a bolt head snaps off or strips left handed drill bits are mighty handy. Consider getting a small pack of them as well.

What's behind the mirror? Some sort of divine being?

I'm curious, does a 2000 XX have mounting holes one the right side of the sub frame, or did you have to drill holes on the side plates of the sub frame. Either way it seems like a good idea, since the 01 R/R looks to be a heavier-duty unit.

I believe the black ones are powder coated. Another option is to put a cover over them. Some of the covers go beyond gratuitous bling and protect the metal engine cover.

In my mind the tub would only be a selling point to families with small children. Kids get washed in tubs, most adults never use the tub, well except if it's part of a shower or a jetted tub. If the rest of the house (and neighborhood) is designed for families with small kids then maybe leave it. Otherwise put in a nice full-tiled shower, perhaps a two headed shower. Having bought/sold and lived in way too many houses I've learned that what really makes a house distinctive are the kitchen, bathrooms and closets. The other rooms are almost always identical from one house to the next. Just my $0.02.

At first I hated it, but now I love working legs. I have a different workout for everyday of the week and each workout has a leg component. However my lifting workouts are purposefully designed to be a cardio workout as well. I workout during the middle of the day when no one is in the weight room. I take no breaks between sets - right from one exercise to the next for 45 minutes to an hour. To really get my heart and lungs working I need to do legs. If you're working out to lose weight and be in better cardio shape, you must work legs. Ok I'm being a little preachy here, sorry. About squats. My weight with squats is much, much lower than most people. I do 135 lbs. for two sets of 16 reps, slow controlled motion using the smith machine. I also like the stretch I get from squatting, but I don't go below parallel. Really I don't care about the amount of weight I'm moving. Unlike my younger days I now lift for flexibility, to be in shape and lose weight. Here's the other leg exercises I use: Dead Lift Stationary Lunges Reverse Lunges (stepping back) Leg Press Leg Extensions Leg Curls Calf Raises Step-Ups Heel Lifts

John is still the man. When you need bike bits, go see the man with the floppy ears. Here's why. The CCT I ordered from John also included the gasket and hardware needed to properly complete the job. All at a price that cheaper than anyone else sells just the CCT. Did I mention his CCT price included free shipping? The first CCT I ordered from John was lost by the USPS (fuckers). John sent me a replacement as soon as I told him it had not arrived in time, no questions asked. Thank You John!

Yeah, but that's Canadian dollars. How much is real dollars?

Nice! If I don't get them by this time next week, absolutely. I think first giving them a chance is fair, no?

Chicago BMW Motorcycle had the best price for BMW Sport Grips @ $8.00/each. My favorite grip BTW. I ordered a pair four weeks ago. The order confirmation email indicated that it would take 7-10 days for them to get the grips and then another five days or so for them to arrive at my home. Ok two weeks seemed reasonable, about right for a dealer. But still slower than most places. After three weeks I sent an email asking for the order status, no response. Today after four weeks I called. The rep I spoke to was mumbling the order status, thinking outloud actually. He said they keep the grips in stock, but hadn't sent them yet. He said they'd send them this week. This week! How about sending them today I demanded. He agreed. Hopefully I'll get them this week, we'll see. I'd give them an "F", but the order I placed last year was fine.

New Enough is my favorite site for gear. Paul's comments (reviews) are very, very helpful. I find them honest and straightforward. He understands the strengths and weaknesses of what he sells and is honest enough to communicate that. They also take their own photos of the gear they sell, often more useful/informative than the manufacture's photos.

I've now placed four different orders with University Motors - great price, great service, prompt shipping and good communication. I doubt I will ever use any dealer but University Motors. I usually talk to either Mike Barth or Mike Kolstad. They're both great to work with, either one can fuck my sister.

Good job, that sounds like a lot of work. I'm almost done with a very similar maintenance agenda on my 97 XX. A couple of questions: 1. Did you replace the steering head bearings with OEM or the aftermarket tapered ones. 2. Did your valves need adjusting. At 49K miles I had six exhasut values that were just a little too tight.