TimXX

My bike came with Macadam 100s and the front started cupping at around10,000km [i ride with 40-42 front and 42 psi rear] and half my distance is two up with lots of luggage. I now have Pilot Roads and have about 6,000 km on the front with no cupping, and 10,000km on the rear. The differences between the 2 tires seem to be that the Pilot Roads stick better on most surfaces except for tar snakes [the bike then slides sideways and grabs]. They offer me enough grip for the speeds I ride at-slower than R1s, etc, and XXers who are young and brave, faster than BMWs, and way faster than Harleys. TimXX

Thanks again RMU and Northman- it all makes sense now. Also- it feels good to know that my clearances are at max on some cylinders and mid range in the others. This leaves LOTS of room for valve seat wear. BTW: why are the valves rotating?- is this just because they are cylindrical and some of the explosive force of the combustion process turns them? It seems that the cams moving on the bucket, shims and valve stems wouldn't have much rotation force. BTW2: how much can the valves or seats wear before they crack [?]. It also seems that as they wear, they actually seat better since they are being honed to fit. Interesting stuff, mechanics. TimXX

Thanks for the info RMU. Question: the valve seats are contact points and when they wear it decreases the clearances-makes sense. However, aren't the cam lobes wearing on the shims, and the shims wearing on the heads [?] of the valves? If this is the case, wouldn't it Increase the clearance? Which would wear faster? Looking forward to anwers. TimXX

Last week I came back from a long bike trip to Sturgis, New Mexico, LA and then up the west coast on 101 and 1. I returned home with 27,900 km on my bike and realized it was time to check my valve clearance. The Honda dealer here found they were EX: .25, .22,.22, .22mm and my Intakes were: 15,19,19,15mm. They decided that the clearances were within spec [Ex: .19-.25 and Int: .13-.19mm] and just left them alone [so it cost me $340CAD for a peace of mind check but no changes] Question: as the valves wear, does the clearance get larger or smaller? It seems that if they get larger, it would have been better to reduce the clearance to the minimum so it would stay within spec for a longer time. The dealer mech said that with the clearances I had I could go another 25,000km without worry. Does this sound correct? Any info is appreciated. TimXX

I just came back from a 6,000 mile trip [OK, it was really 10,000km] and several times I put on my throttle lock and took my hands off the bars in order to zip up my sleeves or?- and I had no head shake at all. I had Pilot Roads with 5,000 miles, 2 large GIVI bags and a tent and sleeping bag on my Wingrack, and a tank bag. The bike did lean a bit to the right, but I could lean to the left and compensate. I do have Hyperpro fornt springs and rear shock. I like the ability to change damping and preload without lifting the tank and hammering at the stock spring. TimXX

I too am interested in getting a satellite radio [not sure which yet]. However, I would like wireless headphones in my helmet since I know I will get off while still plugged in. Does anyone make a wireless setup? TimXX

Hi XXers, Thanks for the advice. I bought a K&N filter through Ebay for $39+6.95 shipping [that is about $62CAD]. This is better than the $85+14.5% tax=$97CAD that the stock one would cost from a dealer. I already have the cleaner and oil from using this on my car and other bike [which I have sold]. My new front Pilot Road is on and I have cleaned and waxed my bike, adjusted and oiled the chain, and gathered my tent and sleeping bag [i will air them out on Monday]. So- next week I am off to Sturgis for 3 days [Aug 9-12] and then down the Rockies to Albuquerque to visit with my brother. Then it's off to Vegas and LA and then up the coast back home. Yes I am riding with a Harley guy- but he is an old friend and we can meet up at the next stop if he drops back too far. Besides- I will probably need to know a Hogger when at Sturgis. We still don't know where we are sleeping yet-Don likes to wing it. Hakuna Matata, TimXX

You guys have lots of good info but I am a bit confused re: distance before checking valves. We Canadians [and the rest of the world too] use kilometers and not miles to measure riding distance. My manual says check the valves at 24,000km [about 15,000 miles]. Some of you checked them at 20,000 miles [32,000 km] and some at 46,000 miles [74,000km]. These are BIG differences. I have decided that I will wait on the valve check because I am at 20,000 km and my trip will be about 10,000km. If I am at the same location in the US for a few days, I might get them done then. If not, I guess 30,000km will not be too bad. Re: air filters- I like the idea of cleaning them over and over again for the long haul. What I do with my car and my old bike is clean them during the winter when they are down for a while. They all use the same cleaning kit and oil so it is not a big deal to do. Since the consensus is that the FI birds run OK with K&N filters, I will get that one. Where is the cheapest [or best] place to get one? I have a US address to ship it to- in fact, one of the guys I am riding with is at that address and he can bring it to me before we take off. Must be done quick though so give suggestions ASAP. I guess I will eventually get a PCIII and carbon fibre cans [my wife has already burned her leg getting off the stock piped bike and the carbon cans seem very "cool" :wink: ] and chasis dyno the bike- but the acceleration does not seem to be a weak point on this bike. I did put Hyperpro fork springs [and 5 wt oil], and their rear shock and spring with remote preload and fast and slow comp and slow rebound damping adjustment. It came with and extra 12.5mm [1/2"] of height at the rear axle, and I use 30mm of sag with the fully loaded rider setup [either me solo, with fully loaded bags, or with my wife on and fully loaded bags]. With the remote preload adj. this is easy to work out now that I have kept track of how many turns of the hydraulic wheel alters it properly. I am still not sure how to fine tune the rebound and compression damping. Any suggestions re: what to feel for and whether tightening or loosening the damping changes this? BTW: I do like the progressively wound spring because I don't have to over preload when riding double because the spring really gets firmer near the end of its travel- I have not bottomed yet. Thanks for all the info- this forum really does help with specific info for the Bird. TimXX

Question for all you 6mm guys [no offense intended]: -how much difference does that show up as at the rear axle? -do you change the amount of sag you ride with- and if so, how much sag do you set with you on the bike? Thanks for the info. TimXX

I know this has been asked before, but I have to make a decision fast. How much effect does the K&N airl filter have on a 2002 XX with FI? I have always used K&N because it is easier and cheaper to maintain them than the stocks. BTW: where are good places to get K&Ns and/or stock filters? In Vancouver they cost $120CAD [$90US] for K&N and $80CAD [$60US] for stock- this is too much money. Aslo- what do your guys charge for adjusting the valves? Here they want $350-60 for the labour for 24,000km service which includes this and synching the throttle boddies and a host of other things I do myself. I need a quick answer since I am leaving on a big trip beginning of August. ThankXX. TimXX

Hey Blue [Peter], re duty- why not just ship them to Blaine, Wash at a mail drop and then pick them up [i am not suggesting anything illegal :wink: ]? It is not just the taxes: UPS and others charge brokerage admin fees getting them through customs and then charge a fee for charging a fee-this is true :evil: . There are mail drops that will phone you when things are delivered to them and then you can pick it up. Good hunting. TimXX

Hi Xer, I now have Michelin Pilot Roads and they seem fine. Re: saddle bags, I have Givi bags and they are more roomy and practical than Corbin bags but are bulkier and stick out more. The advantage is that in the city, I use one as a top box [this keeps me thin for traffic] and for long trips I use them on the sides [i have 45 litre bags but 36 L might be better for you]. They are completely waterproof and removable. TimXX

Hi Peter, Let them laugh at your Macadams- I had them on my bike for 19,000km and they were fine. I kept up with at least half of the guys at Cody [and I would not have ridden much faster with better tires]. I know have Pilot Roads on the rear and they do stick a little better. Next week I will change my front Macadam for a Pilot Road. BTW: it is a lot cheaper ordering tires from mail order places in the US and then going down to pick them up. I paid $340CAD [installed] in Kelowna for a rear when I got my flat there. I recently paid about $100US [incl. shipping and gas that is $133CAD] for the front, and it will cost $45CAD for installation. This is much better. See you, Tim

Hi Peter, Let them laugh at your Macadams- I had them on my bike for 19,000km and they were fine. I kept up with at least half of the guys at Cody [and I would not have ridden much faster with better tires. I know have Pilot Roads on the rear and they do stick a little better. Next week I will change my front Macadam for a Pilot Road. BTW: it is a lot cheaper ordering tires from mail order places in the US and then going down to pick them up. I paid $340CAD [installed] in Kelowna for a rear when I got my flat there. I recently paid about $100US [incl. shipping and gas that is $133CAD] for the front, and it will cost $45CAD for installation. This is much better. See you, Tim

Question- if you add a 6mm spacer at the shock, how much does it raise the bike at the rear axle?

Hi MidNitXX, I paid $759.20 for the rear shock and spring with remote preload. I think this is slightly cheaper than Ohlins. I would also suggest you get the fork springs and 5 wt oil to go with the rear. Talk to them at 888-963-1212 and bargain a bit. The nice thing is that they will match the spring to the weights you ride with. I am not sure if the damping rates change for the weights you send in. I am happy with this setup-especially the ease at changing preload and damping to suit either fast solo mountain riding or dual touring. I am still playing the these settings but am pretty close to what I like. Tim

I had a similar problem with rear suspension since I ride about 50% of the time with a passenger and lots of luggage, and 50% solo. I bought a Hyperpro rear shock with hydraulic remote preload, rebound adjust and fast and slow comp. damping adj. The rear spring is very progressive and they sent me one after I sent them the weights when riding solo and double [186-331 kg/mm or 16-28 lbs/in]. This set up is working well so far. I am still fiddling with damping adjustments, but already it is a lot better than the stock setup. The remote preload adjustment is wonderful- 2 full turns of the wheel takes me from solo setup to dual touring. Interestingly, the shock resulted in a 12.7mm longer height measured at the rear axle than the stock shock and I adjusted the sag so that my rear is about 7mm longer than the original height. BTW: the 7mm shim that people use- how much higher is that when measured at the rear axle? Cornering is a lot better and this can be maintained with the preload. I am also liking the progressive spring since I can set it a bit softer than before and the rear doesn't drop as much when big bumps are hit. This is a good solution for people who have a large variance in weight on their bikes. I am not sure how it compares when riding very fast on smooth and lumpy roads to the Penske or Ohlins. Tim

When I overbored and put in high compression pistons in my FJ1100, the stock battery was having difficulty spinning the starter. I put in a slightly larger gel battery. It has been in for 5 years- the last 2 years [since I bought the XX], I haven't been starting the bike much [maybe 4 times a year]. Each time, the gel battery spins the starter and the bike starts. When my XX battery finally goes, I will get a gel for it too. Tim

I put a 100 watt bulb in the low beam and it is barely brighter than the 55 watt original. It's not burning anything, but I am not getting sifnificantly more light. Tim

I just finished installing my new Hyperpro rear shock with remote preload and damping. This setup has a spring that varies progressivly from 16-28 Kg/mm [186-330 lbs/in]. After installation, I noticed that my rear axle is 1/2" further away [wheel is that much lower when on center stand]. I have not ridden the bike yet or adjusted any preload or damping. The reason I bought this setup is because I ride solo with no bags for day rides, with bags for longer trips and with my wife and full bags and stuff on tours. The weight ranges from 90 kgs-200kgs [200-440lbs] and I wanted easy adjustablility on the rear suspension. Questions: how will he extra 1/2" effect handling? Should I allow for more sag to compensate for this? Any other comments? TimXX

Question: I know the rear suspension moves 4.7" total- but how much does the shock compress at its shortest point? If 12-5/8" is the max figure, what is the minimum? There must be some ratio of shock to rear wheel movement-what is it? Thanks for info. TimXX

Question: I know the suspension moves 4.7" total- but how much does the shock compress at its shortest point? If 12-5/8" is the max figure, what is the minimum? Thanks for info. TimXX

Hi Kel,etc. Yes I installed the front and rear Hyperpro springs and put 2.5wt oil in the forks. A big improvement in the ride. There is less harshness in the front and the sag is better now. Sag in mm Front Sag Rear Sag no weight 0 0 Bike Alone 15 6 Tim + 2 bags 27 23 Tim+Barb + 2 bags 29 53 Ideal with rider(s) is 25-35mm The bike seems to handle better, especially on rough roads. The only problem I have is that the rear preload is SO DIFFICULT :evil: to change that I set it overhard for solo riding so that it was OK for 2 up fully loaded riding-and I don't change it. I definitely reccommend this setup as a fairly inexpensive fix. I have recently received Hyperpro's rear shock with hydraulic remote preload adjustment and rebound and compression damping adjustment. I have not installed it yet [our riding season is just about over and I am waiting until it is before I install it] and I have a few questions that I need answered before I do. I probably will not know how this shock works until next April. Tim

I have a 2002 XX with FI. What happens with this setup if I put in a K&N air filter? The big advantage with K&N is that they flow a bit better and can be recleaned instead of having to replace the filter. I have put K&Ns in my FJ1100 and it has worked well with only cleaning for 15 years-without changing jets. I also use a K&N on a cold intake tube on my FI 1990 300ZX. This has also worked well for about 10 yearswithout any changes to the FI. Why do they effect the XX so much? Tim

My local Honda dealer sold me the washer for $1.56CAD [incl tax]. They are also a car dealer. Could I have bought the same washer from them for $.40CAD if I asked for a CR-V washer instead :???: ? Tim