Pete in PA

How many of you have sag on your sidestand? When mine is on its sidestand the rear suspension is topped out. One check for correct rider sag is while dismounted the rear while supported at the front will "just" top out with the weight of the bike alone. When you have it on the sidestand it unweights the rear suspension further.

I just did the 6mm shim (yes I like it) so now I'm back to this problem also.

Sounds good! You should be running leaner not richer opening up the exaust. Monitor your fuel mileage and see.

I wouldn't do Electrosport (formerly Electrex) I've heard too many bad things from them. How many miles on this bike? Just trying to figure out if it needs a stator or not. It's a shame that you have ANOTHER story of at minimun dealer ineptitude to maximum a complete rip off. I agree, gears don't slip, clutches do. Gears grind and pop in and out of gear as the dogs engage and disengage. I wonder if the first time they actually just replaced the clutch, failed to tighten a bolt, and that caused the seizure. Oh well, water under the bridge. For your charging problem Electrex DOES make a good troubleshooting tree. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/files/reference/charging_diag.pdf After that I'm about 90% sure it's only the reg/rec so go with this: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=276

Ditto, especially the It's very unusual for the tranny to go out and even more so for 5th gear. It's usually second.

That's pretty drastic with that pic. You still got 8500 miles out of it though.

I'm sick of you guys getting such high mileage out of your tires. I'll be lucky to get 5k miles before cord shows.

Well after copying every wheel alignment procedure I have (all Motorcyclist mag.) And finding discrepancies between them I checked my XX again and this time found the swingarm marks off by about 1.5 turns of the adjuster bolts. Now my question, besides handling, what effect will this have on tire wear? What I mean is will the front fork geometry keep trying to keep the front wheel straight or will it allow it to align to the crooked rear wheel? Will the rear tire in affect be trying to slide slightly instead of roll or still roll, just crooked compared to the frame? Of course I'm still trying to get more tire mileage after reading about Flitemdic getting 11k miles out of his Stradas. I'll be happy to get 5k miles till cord.

I've got a 98 Lumina LTZ and 99 Monte Carlo Z34. Both came from the factory with Goodyear Eagle RSA tires in size 225/60-16. The sticker under the trunk wants 30 psi (which I think is low) Which is figured for a soft ride. Max on the tires is 44 psi. I've currently got 2 different brand tires in use on each car, same factory size. On one the max on the tire is 35 the other the max is 44. So now what??? At 44 it IS too much, slides too much on rain soaked roads. Currently Im running 35 on both cars and seems fine, but I still don't like the different psi on the sidewalls.

In the JC Whitney M/C catalog in the Goldwing section they have a petcock rebuild kit with a diaphram pictured that looks just like ours. I haven't researched it but if mine ever rips again I will.

Very nice. I've already done the inside, as wide as the pipe, don't think I want it any louder.

Did I say ? I can't believe doing the sit on centerstand thing did that. I wonder if there was something else going on and that just took it the rest of the way.

Sorry, Your idle circuits are plugged shut. Got to pull the carbs and clean.

+1 Make sure you install a relay circuit to power the horn, it's fairly easy to fry the horn circuit with aftermarket horns. Have you actually mounted this horn? Where did you put it? Buddy at work has a Suzuki M50 cruiser and the guys on their site actually mount it inside the tool box under the sidecover. Even inside there, almost airtight, it's super loud! I want one. The only spot I found to mount it is under the tank, over the transmission, where the Cali. evap. can goes.

I've got a 98 also and there is only 1 main fuse (a 30 amp) that is hidden under the main fusebox. you have to remove the tail cowl to access it. What did you use to jump it? If your RR wasn't dead it is now along with possibly a lot of more $$$ things. Good luck, keep us posted.

Yes to the point it's hard to hold the throttle steady enough, long enough, to get the GPS and spedo to match. So at the most it's 1 or 2 mph off, for all practical purposes perfect. Only problem is now the odometer is low by 6%.

Come on guys....FIGHT NICE! I agree though, Honda in all their vast R&D did their homework, leave it alone and reassemble. Hmmm....Maybe an intercooler..... No leave it alone.

So what IS that stuffs purpose in life? I've thought of chucking them, not so much the ones glued to the lowers but the ones that hang on the frame before you install the lowers. They're becoming a bit tattered. Anyone get rid of them yet and suffer no dire consequences?

If it wasn't "de-Californiaed" correctly there may be one or a few vac. leaks. Check EVERYTHING while it's apart.

Well you're not going to hear it with earplugs on. Seriously, Take it for a ride and wind it out you'll hear it. It does lessen back pressure and release more power. If I wanted D&D noise I'd buy them cheap. I like stealth mode.

On my 98 it's 5.666 gal. to fill from pushing. Rated at 5.8 gal. so the last .2 doesn't run out to the carbs. No reserve position on petcock. The light might be dead on the gauge like mine is. at 200 miles it should have come on.

I've got the 7.5 in my Hyperpro setup, I might drop down to 5 to get rid of that last little bit of harshness.

Glad to hear. I've got a 009 rear already waiting in the basement, I just put on the rear Strada. I can't ignore that price since I go through rears in 4k miles and fronts in 6k miles. Are you going to put on another 009 rear?

Something I noticed only recently is running without any plastic makes it run terrible. The fairing acts as part of the airbox and without it doesn't run right.

I thought I'd resurrect this thread since it has been asked again and I punched more metal out of mine. I basically have a same diameter hole from the rear through the plate and perforated plate. Sounds great but still quieter then most pipes I've heard. The link to the bafflectomy helped me.