Pete in PA

I did my change to a X-11 CCT, thanks Joe! Being the curious sort I took the old one apart. Interesting device. I tried to wind the spring further, but even takeing it as far as it goes it's not as tight as the X-11 one. It also has a little more throw so it will still keep a stretched chain tight longer. My chain seems fine, the tensioner only turns 1 1/2 turns before it stops, I think the max was 5 turns. I like my homemade key better, per the manual, It has more area to grip where your fingers go.

Maybe ignorance is bliss. Yes it is. My bike never goes past half on temp. with fan running. I never have run hot problems.

I did the Mobil 1 at 5k miles this time. I think I'll do 4k from now on with the color that came out and the harder shifting I got. After all I want to keep this bike a long time. 100k miles at least. Since it hasn't been improved or maybe discontinued. :cry:

The way the front tire throws stones at my radiator and bends the fins I can see if you regularly run dirt roads how it can be clogged with dust/mud. If you do hit it with a garden hose keep the press. down or you will bend all your fins closed.

If the stem bearings are loose every time you hit a bump a slight notch is formed. After enough of this you have a notch that can be felt. Put bike on centerstand, raise front wheel off ground and slowly turn bars from lock to lock, paying close attention to straight ahead. If you feel a spot where the steering falls into you have notched bearings. They need replaced with tapered roller bearings. My bike has this notch and handlebar shake. I hope to install tapered bearings over this winter.

97-98 carriers are steel 99-on alluminum and a diff. color.

Mike, did you put the tapered bearings in and did it get rid of any decelleration wobble? I'm still planning to do mine over the winter. I have a slight notch straight ahead and a wobble with hands off bars at 45mph. It's not terminal though, it wobbles slightly without getting worse. On my Sabre I had one that if you didn't grab the bars again it would keep getting worse till it was almost lock to lock.

check the wire connectors all the way from the stator to the regulator. they can get hot in use and melt! Mine are a toasty brown currently. I now take them apart and squeeze the female parts together and clean/reassemble.

I'll just sit back and watch this time. :roll:

GO MIKE AND TINA :!: coveralls huh :?: My theory on this push the pistons in, get better brakeing is that from regular (hard) use you may slightly boil the fluid and get bubbles in the line. when you push the pistons in, you push fluid (and air) up the lines into the reservoir, then you pump up the brakes with only fluid, so you have just. reverse bled air out of your system. btw you shoud clean the pistons first before pushing all that dirt into the dust seals. scotchbrite pads work great. IMHO of course.

My red light has died as well, but I don't really miss it. Figure the entire tank unit will have to be replaced at a lot of $$ so haven't pursued it. Actual useable capacity 5.666 gal. till dead engine. I've started filling into the neck of the tank as long as I know I'll be rideing a while after. If I'm fueling and then parking, I leave room for cold gas to expand.

I just switched back to Maxima chain wax from Honda HP lube. I noticed my rollers were makeing a noise when I took off from a stop. Upon inspection I found the rollers were rusting inside! Also they are shortening in length. I saturated the chain with wd-40 and cleaned it. Something I don't normally do. I still had Maxima chain wax so I shot it with that. The chain now is quiet and no rust anymore. The chain now has 20k miles on it and there isn't much stretch yet but I was worried I had to replace it for the rollers. My theory now is the HP lube is too thin and wears out/off too quickly.

So how's the rideability without boosting? Does it still make a good road bike/cornering bike? How do you hit the nitrous, with the horn button?

Yo, mbdean, the only ST tire you ran was the 57. The rest are sport or super sport. 207 56SS 010 Try: 220 020 46 etc. You will get better mileage.

Is an Everstart even a maint. free/AGM battery?

I said the overflow bottle cap, not radiator cap. There are some cars out there that have a pressureized overflow bottle. Very strange to work on. :???:

OK, it sounds barbaric, but it works. Remove front fender. Determine which way the bars need to move. Go to a solid item like a telephone pole or wall, place correct side of front tire against it, line it up and whack it against pole by turning handlebars hard. Test ride and check triple tree/ handlebar allignment. It takes a couple times to get it right but you can put it anywhere you want it. Don't be alarmed, you're not bending the fork tubes. What you're doing is alligning the triple tree. The first time I wrecked off-road with my XR I got back on and freaked because my handlebars were WAAYY off. This fixed it.

Have the dealer check the fork tubes carefully where the seal rides for rock nicks or other damage. This is far to quick for a fork seal problem.

The best way to tell if lean or rich problem is to start out with the bike cold and immediately ride it at the rpm where the problem is. If the problem gets better when cold you're too rich, if worse your'e too lean. Lowes has perfect washers in those tiny parts bins.

OMG :!: Once you have the airbox off just pull the carbs, very easy. I can't imagine doing it with the carbs installed. The job is easy, it's the 3 or more times you must do it to get it right. Your fuel mileage will also suffer about 10 mpg. :cry: I did it, didn't like the mpg loss and put it back to stock. The biggest improvement is the drilling of the slides (if needed) and turning pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. Don't need the kit for this. :wink: On the dyno I could see a slight improvement but seat of the pants none. If you put on (or have) a pipe, that could change.

My red light quit working a couple of months ago. I don't really miss it. I don't like a bright red light comeing on when I'm flying down the highway at night. I also figure I'll have to replace the entire tank unit to fix it. $$$$ :cry: So it's staying broke.

Yes I did it, ran out of gas tonight in the dark. Had to push up small hill then coast down another to gas station. This proves what I said before, manual says 5.81 gal. only 5.666 useable though. Applies to 97 and 98 XX's only.

I started on the sidestand then found if I took it off and rocked bike left and right I'd get more out. Can't do that with a cage :!:

This brings up another point I had forgotton about. ALL you guys with hot running probs, install a switch inline with the fan switch (parallel) so you can turn your cooling fan on any time your temp. starts climbing. While in slow traffic etc. For towing without damage use just slightly oversized PVC pipe on the grips and attach straps to the PVC.

Dynojet's # system has no relation to factory #s. A DJ 136 is not the same as a factory (Kehin?) 136. If you had an accurate way to mike the hole size you could get stock jets to match. But to do that you would need a jet kit. :roll: