Mekanix

Was going to say clutch plate chatter, but that doesn't whine. My chatter went away when I started using Mobil 1 synthetic for bikes. It comes and goes but is much quieter. Are you using a motorcycle formulated oil or car stuff? That might be the source/problem? I've only used motorcycle oil in my bikes, don't know what car oil would do to it if anything.

Got a 99 and I watch my needle stay right around the end of the sweep on the gauge, right under hot. Only time I ever boiled over was when I lost a fuse...

Sounds no better than standard polyurethane foam spray roof coating, exept for the RF thing. If you have a cell phone, will you lose service? I think if you are paranoid and need rf insulation, you might as well cut all your phone lines, cable and electrical service, because apparently all of that can be tapped. Don't ask me to reference this, it's just what I have picked up and I might be wrong. In the end, nobody really wants to pay more for what may be insignificant to the user. If someone is going to sell their home in the near future and needs a roof, why pay a dime more for anything more than what is needed to sell the house? Might work in the high end market, but the consumer will just take what the first guy listed in the yellow pages offers when they need work done.

I'd say maybe... I had my stator go out after my loom fix, and my FI light problem returned after that..

It would work. Basically the cabinet base is a (mostly) sealed box. If hot air went into it, and there was a register to let it out, it would work. I would be concerned about your local building codes. I'm sure you can check with an inspector who can give you the right answer. I would run duct work all the way out.

I did the loom fix years ago. It made it go away for a very long time. Now it has returned and I am looking at just buying a new harness from Bike Bandit or somewhere else. Too many gremlins to chase down. It might not have gone south if I didn't regularly take the bird swimming, but I digress.

The Honda black in the touch up cans is pretty close to the correct black. It has a very tiny amount of metal flake in it, which is what the factory color is. I don't know about the plastics being molded in color, but the paint shop mixed the base coat perfectly for me. You could even get them to do a small batch and paint it in. If you really wanted to work it, tape off the scratch after you have cleaned and degreased it, spray base into the scratch, let it dry, feather sand it with about 1500 grit and then spray clear, wet sand and polish. The base coat will fill the deeper scratches and the clear coat will take care of any thin spots.

Oh that's so sad...

The only reason I painted my own is because I want to be a better painter. The cost of tools and materials for quality far outweigh the cost you are talking about. I'd say just pay the price and be happy with the results.

If that is the chinese copy model that costs a good chunk less than the standard price for an equivelant brand name, I have a guy at work that bought one. Quality is ok, works like it's supposed to. I'm sorry if I sound like I am rambling, but I really don't know the name of it. He got it of egay and is really happy with it.

Nothing constructive to add, just "Dude, that sucks" Hope you get it figured out...

At the risk of sounding overly cautious, I'd buy the wiring and do it myself. Take lots of pics and be prepared to spend a lot of time winding the harness out of the frame. I would NOT trust the same shop. Bike Bandit has microfiche you can look at while you are working to make sure everything goes where it's supposed to. No telling what the "mechanic" did to your harness at this point. Just fork out the dough and get a new harness. It only took me 3 days to get the bike back together from start to finish, but I also was doing repairs, not just replacing the harness. This was in my garage and enjoying a beer now and then too. If I didn't have a garage, I would eat it and have another shop put the new harness in.

+1 on checking fault codes. If it's a 99-00, be ready to pull your hair out. I ended up opening up the entire rear of the harness, then doing redundant grounding, now I missed a ground to the kickstand, but the other stuff panned out. I find Honda is like Ford... the grounding will drive you nuts, redundant ground everything. I think it's because they use line voltage drops as indicators in the system and grounding can affect the actual numbers at given points. I really don't know because I didn't design the system, but the commonality between the two systems is eerie.

I used the center stand and put a jack with a wood block under the engine till the rear tire "just" touched at the back. It was pretty stable, but I wasn't whacking on anything. If you don't have a center stand installed but have one of them rear swingarm lifts, I don't see why an engine hoist wouldn't work. I'd still be inclined to have it sit on wood blocks, but that's just me.

I noticed when I packed my bearings (original, not rollers, they still work fine) that there is exactly enough threads to tighen everything up with no more to overtighten. If you forgot a washer or spacer it would prevent you from getting the bearings tight enough to prevent the rocking you are describing. I repacked my bearings when my steering was doing exactly what you are describing and it went away and drives and steers fine. As a side, if you could find a correct sized spacer to go behind the nut, you could, essentially, give more lock down force on the bearings before locking down the nut and reassembling. I would first double check everything and make sure nothing is out of whack, though.

Been a while, I think I get 5 quarts, add 4, check and top it off with the 5th.

Update on paint. Stupid crap peels up splendidly with an old gas spill! Next time, epoxy.

Prestone extended life. Says no silicates. Never had any issues... after I replaced the burnt fuse.

Uhm, since I turned a leaf to be a better contributor... Replace the valve stem.

+1

I tend to do a lot of thrashing in my garage so I expected that if I put epoxy down, I would burn holes in it with weld slag or scrape it off with moving heavy steel across the finish. I went the garage floor paint route. Spent a lot of time cleaning and scrubbing before painting. Waited the 3 days before driving on it. The crap is mostly still stuck on the floor, but coming in and parking my truck after a rain will still pull up a tire pattern when I leave. There are some areas where there was a lot of oil that I had used solvent and kitty litter to clean it up before scrubbing and then painting. Those areas have lifted and I hit it with my boot and scraped the flakes off with a wire brush. Flaked up pretty easy. I would probably epoxy it the next time I did it, but I am thinking of selling the house, so I may just throw more paint on it and leave.

Also a victim of a popped fuse. I had the foresight to replace the stock fuse with an aftermarket and it failed on me. Dug the original out of the toolbox and popped it in. Still works.

I use fitday pretty regular. Sometimes the numbers aren't quite right, but I make do between that and calorieking.com if I go out and get something from a chain restaraunt and want to plug in a close estimate. I love it. I am still fat (to me) but 2 things are abundantly clear. 1. I eat too much empty calories (including sugary coffee and the occasional cocktail). 2. I eat more calories than I need, sometimes to a suprisingly loud alarm. I am only about 20 lbs from my ideal weight, and I am lifting to increase mass/decrease fat ass. What I have found and am working on to improve in a 'daily lifestyle' kind of way is that I go out with company or to visit family and I blow the diet out by over 1500 calories in a single shot. I am trying to find the self control to stop with the drinks, fatty foods and sugary snacks that are laid out for company as a matter of course. I bring diet soda and bottled water when I know it will help me avoid drinking alcohol and sugary cola. As for alcohol, between the empty calories and the sudden lack of self control, I am finding it better just to avoid it completely in social settings. I can control it very well at home when I am playing guitar or hanging with the gf. Since I tend to drink my liqour straight, it's easy to see how hanging and playing cards for 4 hours can lead to the consumption of say 4 1.5 ounces of bourbon, with a diet coke. Forgetting the chips and dip, or pizza, the alcohol alone in that time is 420 calories, or almost a foot long turkey sandwich at subway. I now know the main reason I am where I am is that I do what I do. No lying to yourself when you sit down to record everything and you realize you took in almost 5000 calories in a day when you really should be consuming close to 2400. (Pizza bad!) I worked in construction a lot in my younger years, as well as time in the military. Such an active lifestyle gave me the tolerance to put away close to 8000 calories a day and stay at about 200 pounds. Because of this, my face is a gaping hole and I can literally pour food down my face all day with almost no discomfort. Between that and my amazing ability to cook, it's a wonder I don't tip the scales at close to 400 pounds.

+1

I'm only guessing it's a 99-00 bike. Mine has been giving me fits with that stupid FI light for years. I did the harness ground fix (search is your friend) completely rebuilt the back of the harness, everything else I can think of. I finally quit fucking with it at 50K and stuck a piece of electrical tape over the light. She's in retired status until I do a frame off, but I can tell you that it is most likely just a grounding issue. I have an idea to make redundant grounds thru the entire back harness into the frame until it goes away next time I tear into it. There have been a number of people who have had this issue and it is one of the few issues that exist on this bike. It is no big deal, if you can ignore the light, IMHO. The computer is nothing more than a fancy DMM and it's only shooting trouble codes for what it determines based on the voltages it analyzes. If it runs fine, find a way to ignore the light. Otherwise, be prepared to work on it like it's a Harley. Oh... Hi and welcome!