blackhawkxx

http://www.indysuperbike.com/Galfer_Brake_...ont-117873.html http://www.tobefast.com/galfer-cbr1100xx-f...es-pr-4666.html I have not used these places, I just did a quick search.

5W is too light for me.

See, wasn't that easy.

To be fair, we ask everything here. Can't decide what color of underwear, ask here?

You know the answer. Even if you get it moving, will it work well?

Ding! We have a winner. Keep it. It will not be worth much less two years from now. Remember, they don't make these any more.

It's good to share. Thanks. Carbs can be a pain to adjust but when you get them right, they rock.

So why was the engine locked? BTW-great photo and something new to watch out for.

Do you think that it get the grime out as well as pulling the drain plug?

If you need something to hold it on just until you get the right part, go to the hardware store and get a roll of metal strapping with holes in it that is used to hold up duck work, etc. Something like this but a small roll for cheap. http://www.theductshop.com/shop/catalog-ha...rap-c-1_19.html

It is my understanding that the Blackbirds didn't sell that well in the US. If not, why would they make another? The 14 is at the top of the class now but I would like to see the sales numbers over a few years. I'm guessing they are not that high. Remember folks, it is all about the money.

Years ago, I was riding my 750 Honda on a 1000 mile trip when it just turned off right before entering a tunnel. It would start up again and at some point turn off again. I thought it was the ignition switch which the Evansville IN Honda dealer had in stock. No problems after that. Don't know if that is what yours is doing but a thought.

One picture is worth a thousand words.

Is it sold?

:icon_clap:

Is that the installed price?

+1

When I was a kid, the next door neighbor had a 70 Super Bee that wouldn't start in the rain. He sprayed the dist. cap and wires with WD-40 and it started right up.

51% Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits: primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene) 25% liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability) 15+% mineral oil (light lubricating oil) 10-% inert ingredients

While I don't have any tips, after doing them on my old 84 1000 Interceptor I can tell you that they were a pain. The fuel was run from one carb to the next by a hard plastic pipe with O rings on each end. One broke, no fun. Yours may be different.

Just HP numbers or more?

Might be a good idea to buy new plastic and store them. If you need them down the road great, if not, sell for big bucks. I might have to think about that.

I can tell you that it is NOT a clogged injector.

Over build is the way to go, not just enough.